Vintage Assessments

The above was my submitted article headline. Unfortunately, the National Post (without my knowledge) used "Beware of dilettante wine reviewers" which may possibly and inadvertently offend some my colleagues and/or readers. This certainly is not the intent of this feature. My articles are intended to inform - not offend. I try to put an educational positive spin on wines permitting the reader to decide which wine best suits his or her palate. This is the original text.

I enjoy tasting wines. So do lots of other people. They see it as a great window to find wines they want to drink. And when they do, like any fan, they want to extol the virtues of their new finds. This and the supposed perks of the profession lures the unsuspecting into believing that should become wine writers. Ergo, thousands of potential wine-writer-wannabes!

After all, it seems easy to be an expert. Know how to spit, swirl and mutter the right words and your almost there. Moreover, aren’t all reviews subjective? It isn’t like being a brain surgeon. If only it was so easy.

Evaluating wines is not to be taken lightly. It’s not simply a matter of saying, “yes, that’s a really fine wine.” In fact, it takes a keen memory, many years of intense experience and training plus a gifted palate to become a professional taster.

The bottom line is that without a palate, you can never succeed! Unfortunately, it’s natural to assume that your own palate is the best. But, in fact, the ability of an individual to taste the multitude of compounds found in any wine varies dramatically. And it isn’t simply a matter of training or knowledge; it’s genetically determined! Not all palates were created equal.

It’s one of those realities we have to learn to live with. In my case, no matter how much I train, I will never be a jockey! Recognizing this reality, Toronto wine expert Andrew Sharp wrote a most informative book called Winetasters Secrets ($14.95 – Warwick Publishing 1998). Here he tries to quantify in objective and absolute terms all aspects of wine evaluation. It’s not a simple task, nor an easy read.

Sharp went on to develop Intervin, a major annual international competition evaluating wines from around the globe. Of course he needed wine judges and developed tests that would ensure that his “experts” had the ability to correctly detect the multitude of positive and negative aspects found in any wine. He also evaluated one’s ability to perceive acidity, sweetness, tannins and the unimaginable host of flavours, textures, etc.

Assuming you have the ability to taste all these elements there’s another hurdle – consistency. Consistency is the most important aspect of any critic’s baggage. In a blind tasting, any amateur can rank five similar wines in order of preference or perceived quality. But can this be done time after time? This is what separates the best from the rest. And you would be surprised how few well-know writers are willing to undergo, never mind pass, such rigorous tests!

Having passed the physiological hurdles, what then? You must have knowledge, which requires first hand tasting exposure and instruction (someone explaining to you what you are tasting and why it tastes the way it does). Unfortunately, finding that someone is extremely difficult as only a handful have the time and patience to master the ever-growing, ever-changing mass of information.

It’s not just being able to pick out a Pinot Noir from a Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s understanding the differences that exist within the grape clones, the impact of the region and microclimate, wine techniques (from barrels to yeast strains), etc. This avalanche of detail has tempted many to throw in the towel. Their justification – there are too many wines from too many regions to bother with. Moreover, the convergence of winemaking styles has obliterated much of the individuality of the past.

Wine judgings are not a cakewalk - there are good ones and bad ones. Over the past decades I have participated in dozens around the world. None are perfect. It’s frightening to think that some of the best wines with lots of character don’t win because the judges lack the knowledge and/or are unfamiliar with the wine’s typicity. They vote for wine styles they know and like. It’s hard to leave your prejudices at home.

Of all competitions, the one I most enjoy is for next week’s Toronto Food & Wine Show. It consists of only two “experts” who taste every wine blind in appropriate groupings by grape variety, colour, type and price. Unlike any other competition, the award (be it bronze, silver or gold) has to be unanimous. The tasters - David Lawrason of Wine access and myself - are forced to come together and analyze each and every wine for what it is, not simply on person whim. Most important, this system really works!

Let me announce some highlights for year. Starting with the whites under $12, the Gold medals went to Argentina’s bright, gently honeyed Norton 1999 Sauvignon Blanc ($9.95 GL-indicating that it is available on the LCBO General List), New Zealand’s zesty, just off-dry, citrusy Corban 1998 Stoneleigh Marlborough Riesling ($11.95 GL) and Australia’s spicy, bright Tyrrell 1999 Long Flat White ($9.90 GL). Note that they all achieved a score of 87 points by both judges.

This under $12 class also had 5 Silver medals and 12 bronze. The biggest surprise was a Silver medal and Best Value White Award to Bulgaria’s dry, unoaked, melon-pear flavoured 1998 Domaine Boyar Chardonnay, an unbelievable steal at $6.45 (scoring 86 points). Incidentally, I strongly recommended the 1997 edition 18 months ago when it was only $5.60 and had people calling me at home thanking me for the tip!

Moving on to the under $12 reds, we saw a tremendous surge of quality with 7 Gold medals, some even challenging the winners in the $12-$25 group! Two inexpensive Italian reds are enough to take your breath away - deep and dense with big, slightly smoky flavours that reminds me of – can I say it – the ever-expensive Amarone! Wow!

The bolder of the two is 1998 Farnese Sangiovese Daunia, an astonishing $7.00 a bottle. I tied it with the Best Value Red of the show 1998 Farnese Montepulciano D’Abruzzo at $12.25 a magnum (or $6.13 a bottle). Both are on the General List and if you like this style (which demands robust dishes), load up now!

I would feel remiss if I didn’t mention that my highest score (89 points) in the under $12 reds went to Stoney Ridge 1998 Bench Cabernet Franc ($11.95 GL). This VQA (a designation meaning the contents are guaranteed to be as listed on the label and that it is a 100% Canadian made wine of quality) was aged 8 months in oak and has crowd-pleasing, ripe raspberry purée flavours, getting my vote as the best buy Canadian red.

All award winners will be featured at Canada’s largest wine and food event – the Toronto Wine & Cheese Show starting at noon Friday March 24^th (the afternoon is the best time to visit) and continuing through 6 pm Sunday at the airport’s International Centre. With the great diversity of styles, you’re bound to find winners that are certain to tickle your palate!

Vintage Assessments
Copyright Gargoyles Limited 2000
Toronto, Ontario
mbv@total.net

Coming Toronto Wine Competition Reveals Some Stunning Best Buys!

Coming Toronto Wine Competition Reveals
Some Stunning Best Buys!