Is your Valentine Saint Amour a sheep in wolf’s clothing?
Michael Vaughan • Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
National Post • Saturday, February 10, 2001
With
Valentine’s Day just around the corner, I have chosen a red that should
warm the chilliest of hearts. This 1999
Cuvée St. Valentin Saint-Amour from the king of Beajolais
himself Georges Dubœuf was released in Vintages last month and there is
still lots around (call the LCBO infoline for location/quantities). It has
a bright purple colour and beguiling, slightly peppery nose with fresh,
ripe plums and dried strawberry fruit. On the palate its attractively
crisp, fresh plum purée taste that makes it a natural with steak aux
frites. One of the best to date, it comes in two sizes, the regular at
$18.95 and halves at $9.95.
For the uninitiated, Saint-Amour is
from the most northerly region of Beaujolais (located just south of
Burgundy) and is one of ten premium “crus” entitled to use their own
commune name. While it is made from exclusively Gamay, you will not find
any mention of the grape or even the Beaujolais region on the label. In
fact, French law does not allow this additional information to appear! For
example, neither Bordeaux nor the grape varieties are permitted to appear
on Chateau Margaux. It seems that French consumers simply know where the
wine is from and are not concerned about the varietals.
The Saint-Amour commune was created in
1946 and named after Saint Amateur, a Roman soldier who founded a
monastery on a mountain peak after being converted to Christianity. I
wonder if old Amateur would turn in his grave if he knew that a wine named
after him would be a key player to hedonistic pleasure. Perhaps not,
because after all, love is a most noble pursuit and what better way to
celebrate your Valentine.
Another interesting fact for budding
imbibers is the fact that Saint-Amour, like some lovers, maybe a sheep in
wolf’s clothing. We always read how Burgundy is the definitive
expression of Pinot Noir. And so it is except when it comes to Cru
Beaujolais, which may be “declassified” and sold simply as
“Bourgogne Rouge” (or red Burgundy). In other words, it’s possible
that your everyday Bourgogne may have some Saint-Amour Gamay in it!
Thankfully Dubœuf delivers the real goods in this “to be or not to
be” dilemma.
In fact, there’s even a wine called
“Bourgogne Passetoutgrain” which is a blend of Gamay and at least
one-third Pinot Noir. Unfortunately, the LCBO’s General List does a
disservice to both consumers and producers by lumping all Beaujolais wines
together under a single “Burgundy” banner. Indeed of the LCBO’s 22
listings, there’s only a single genuine Burgundy – Drouhin
Côtes de Beaune Villages! Some importers have suggested that
this is a deliberate LCBO deception (Vintages, for instance, painstakingly
separates all “Burgundy” from “Beaujolais”). In the words of one
distributor, “it’s easier for the LCBO to sell this stuff as Burgundy
which has a much higher profile, especially since all the good Burgundies
have been removed from the General List.”
Unfortunately good Burgundy and
reasonable price rarely go hand-in-hand. Of course, there are exceptions.
One just-released February 3rd Vintages sleeper is the 1997 Maranges 1er Cru Clos Roussot ($23.90)
from Henri de Villamont. This relatively unknown village (100% Pinot Noir)
comes from the most southerly commune of the Côtes de Beaune. It’s
pleasant, lightish, medium-bodied, ripe, cherry-strawberry flavours make
it immediately accessible and at a decent price.
More
serious Pinot Noir fans are advised to give the seductive Mondavi
1997 Carneros Pinot Noir at $39.95 from the same release a try.
Its slightly smoky, baked red cherry nose has some sage and toasty lime
notes. On the palate it’s well structured and somewhat spicy with
rounded, dried ripe cherry flavours and a long vanilla-directed finish.
Throughout this month, Mondavi’s “A Gift from the Heart” will mean a
40 cents donation to the Heart and Stroke Foundation for every bottle of
red Mondavi wine purchased.
As for my “best buy selection”,
unfortunately you’ll have to wait for the upcoming LCBO February 27th
Classics Catalogue release when the delicious Stoneleigh
1999 Pinot Noir will be unleashed at a mere $19. Only a tiny
quantity (would you believe 10 cases) is available so you’ll be lucky to
land even a few of the lottery bottles. Originating in New Zealand’s
Marlborough region, it received my highest quality-price rating at the
recent Pinot Noir 2001 conference where I waded through over 150
remarkable New Zealand Pinot Noirs over four days! While I have been
delighted with Pinot Noirs from Burgundy and Oregon, I can only say that
New Zealand’s average quality is without compare. And it will get even
better –so watch out!
Copyright
Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2004
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
(electronic or other wise) and or quotation.
Contact Michael Vaughan at
mbv@total.net