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W I N E S, SPIRITS & BREWS – November 6, 1999

“The best of vintages”

          By MICHAEL VAUGHAN

The LCBO rolls out its monthly Vintages releases today 
133 products in all. As always, trying to find the best buys
isn't easy. LCBO Catalogue descriptions are occasionally
inappropriate, and quotations out of date. Moreover, fans line
up at key Vintages outlets early to snap up the new wines
and spirits.

This makes it critical to know what's worth buying. The
following recommendations are based on tastings taken from
two bottles of each new product. They are organized in the
order they would be served at a meal.

Two new sherries would make terrific aperitifs. The first is
Manzanilla Sherry from Bodegas Osborne at only $10.55.
The taste is dry, well balanced and slightly nutty with dusty
ripe lemon peel flavours and a rounded finish.

Only 75 cases of the richer, slightly amber coloured Oloroso
Argueso Sanlucar de Barrameda from Herederos de
Argueso ($17.50) are available. It has warm, intense
butterscotch and baked cashew flavours with some lingering
lemon zest and caramel notes.

Moving to white wines, there's a 1996 Viognier from the
Pays de L’Ardeche region of the Rhone ($13.75) by the well
known house of Georges Deboeuf. It has dry, rounded, fresh
pear flavours. Another good bet is the bargain priced 1988
Semillon/Sauvignon Koonunga Hill ($8.45) from Penfolds,
which has bright, dry, crisp, baked orange flavours. It's well
balanced with a pleasing, fairly persistent, spicy, citrus finish.

For seafood, you can't beat a lovely, crisp Sauvignon Blanc
from the Loire. Try the 1998 Sancerre Les Baronnes
($19.95), by the reliable house of Henri Bourgeois. On the
palate it is bright, dry, well balanced and gently grassy with
fresh grapefruit flavours. There is good intensity of flavours
with a crisp, dry, fairly persistent finish.

If foie gras turns you on, the extraordinary 1997
Gewurztraminer Herrenweg de Turckheim ($34.75)
from the renowned Domaine ZindHumbrecht is a winner.
The gently sweet, spicy, lichee fruit flavours are followed by
a long, rich, honeyed, creamy finish.

And then there is Chardonnay, the king of whites. For bargain
hunters, there is the tasty, well structured Argentinean 1997
Chardonnay Porta Reserva ($12.55) by Vinedos Bodegas.
Two good bets from Australia which would be great with
white meats and poultry. The first is a flavourful 1996
Chardonnay Premium Select ($18.95) from Wolf Blass.
Better yet is the rich 1997 Chardonnay Ebenezer ($19.95)
with its lingering vanilla finish.

My final recommended white is a fine Burgundy from a small
relatively unknown commune, 1998 Rully La Chaume 
($ 25.85) from the excellent house of Chartron & Trebuchet. It
has rich, lemon-lime flavours with buttered toast notes on a
long finish. A half bottle is also available at $13.95.

Moving to reds, it's hard to beat the well-priced Chilean 1997
Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva Castillo de Molina by
Vina San Pedro ($13.50). This unfiltered red has dry, slightly
spicy, youthful, zesty tomato leaf and dusty ripe plum and
black cherry flavours with a solid, long, ripe fruit finish. It
was barrel aged for 12 months in French and American oak,
and would bless a good ribeye.

If you are searching for finesse, elegance and drinkability,
look no farther than the sumptuous 1997
Santenay Commes Premier Cru from Roger Belland at a
reasonable $31.65. Only 100 cases were imported. It's
medium bodied and at its peak –just wonderful right now,
especially with a rack of lamb.

For osso bucco or stews, select a more robustly flavoured red,
perhaps the bright, gently smoky, South African 1998
Pinotage Bayview from Longbridge.

In a similar vein but more restrained is the surprisingly
approachable 1997 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Domaine de la
Solitude ($26.95) from Domaines P. Lancon. Very attractive
now.

Those wishing a robust wine to lay away need not look
further than the 1997 Mas des Bressades; Cabernet/Syrah 
from the Rhone, which at $16.95 is solid value. Its intense, 
fairly rich, dried plums and dusty raspberry flavours will 
benefit from aging.

Of the 1996 Bordeaux on offer, the best value is the 1996
Chateau Beycheyelle at $ 69.95. It is quite rich and is
also worthy of laying away. However, if it's flavour and
structure that you want, don't miss the Italian 1993
Amarone della Valpolicella Le Ragose from M. Marta
Galli at $43.70. The nose is brimming with hot, intense baked
plums. It is enormous but still balanced on the palate with
14% alcohol. Capable of keeping another five or more years, it
would be great with flavourful game dishes and robust after
dinner cheeses.

Next week, I’ll cover port, dessert wines and spirits items
that tend to linger on the shelves.