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Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist - Michael Vaughan  

Water of life, and other necessities   

(Publishing Date: Saturday April 29, 2000  - Toronto Section)

They drift and they drift out. No I am not talking about the eager trout fishermen at today’s opening; I’m referring to the handful of new spirits that appear in the Vintages Catalogue every month. There’s usually no hoopla, no line-ups at the LCBO stores with folks anxiously hoping to scoop up a few prized bottles.

And that’s very unfortunate.  Our preoccupation with just getting the best wines sometimes overshadows some very good buys in the spirits department.  So in attempt to provide appropriate limelight, here are some items worthy of your consideration.

Let me start with of my favourite tipples – Scotch. While single malts are all the rage, next Saturday’s release holds one fine unfiltered treasure which happens to be a blend - ‘Té Bheag’ Nan Eilean ‘Connoisseur’s Blend’ Uisge Beatha at an extraordinarily reasonable $35.80. Medium golden amber in colour, it has a fairly smoky, gently peaty nose with some sea-driven hints of kelp and sweet caramel. The taste is strong and intense but rounded with slightly spicy, sweetish, malty flavours and a fine lingering finish. It’s very flavourful and not for the weak hearted.

This Uisge Beatha (meaning water of life) was originally produced for the Gaelic-speaking islands of the Outer Hebrides, which do not produce their own. It is distilled by Pràban Na Linne on the western Isle of Skye and contains some peaty Talisker. Often incorrectly referred to as ‘tea bag’- the name ‘Té Bheag nan Eilean” is pronounced as ‘Chey Vek nan Yella’ and means “the little lady of the islands.” It also alludes to a dram of whisky! Only 336 cases of 6 are available. Taste it and you may find yourself chanting ‘Chey Vek, Chey Vek, Chey Vek!’ It may not sound like “Go Leafs” but who cares.      

Not quite as inexpensive, but high on the quality side is the A. Hardy Extra Fine Champagne Cognac ‘Fisherman’s Flask’ which comes in a small (200 ml) beautifully embossed circular bottle complete with an engraved thimble-sized silver cap. While “Extra” doesn’t have any legal meaning, it usually refers to a Cognac which is superior to “XO” which likely means that it is at least 6.5 years old. Regardless of the hype that it comes from the Chairman’s Private Cellar, this lovely affair has fairly intense, elegant, well balanced, spicy, gentle caramel flavours. Its taste reminds me of a clear, crisp, autumnal day in the woods. Put a bottle away for a June 18^th Father’s Day gift. At $64.90, it will make anyone, even devoted non-fishing vegetarians, very happy!

For rum fans, let me give a big thumb’s up to the surprisingly elegant ‘Cavalier’ 5 Year Old Rum from Antigua at a most reasonable $26.75.  Released this month and currently available at Vintages, it has complex, very slightly peppery, gently sweet, elegant, brown sugar and vanilla bean flavours with a long lovely finish. It’s perfect Spring sipper – try it from a large brandy snifter!

Lower in alcohol (only 16%) is a fortified wine that will have chocolate fans jumping up and down for more. From Denmark comes Jacobsen Chocolate Cherry ‘Kijafa’ a divine, fairly viscous, sweet elixir exuding sweet chocolate and baked cherry flavours (shades of Lowney’s Cherry Blossom chocolates).  Making its Vintages debut next Saturday at only $10.95, this perfect after-snack sipper could be gifted to the most discerning of moms for the upcoming May 14^th Mother’s Day.

Coming up next weekend is Santé, the second annual Bloor-Yorkville Wine Festival that features over 70 winemakers and kicks off with a food and wine gala at the ROM next Thursday. Not to be missed is the International Tasting next Friday at the AGO from 7-10 pm – most reasonably priced at $65 where you can find 75 winemaker’s tables each featuring 4 wines! Saturday is wine education day with some 40 seminars, dinners, etc. in the Yorkville area. Call (416) 364-2343 for information. You can also check out all their events by connecting through my website vintageassessments.com . Hope to see you there!