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Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist - Michael Vaughan  

  Selective Buying is Order of the Day in 
Today's Vintages Release

(Publishing Date: Saturday April 8, 2000  - Toronto Section

Today’s Vintages release features 71 new reds from $9.35 to $78.75. Unfortunately this is a very mixed release with many, too many, selections not being worthy of a detour for the prices being charged. 

There are many reasons. The 1997 vintage, for instance, was challenging for both Ontario and Oregon reds and the corresponding entries lackluster. In addition, some wines seem over-the-hill, including a tired Raymond Burr 1993 Cabernet Sauvignon ($24.80) from Sonoma and aging Columbia Crest 1996 Merlot ($19.95) from Washington. 

Fortunately, there are still a good number worth buying. Starting at the under $15 end of the price scale, the light-bodied, zesty, red currant flavoured 1998 "Desert Vines" Carignan at $9.35 offers reasonable appeal. Coming from Morocco, it’s bound to confound your wine expert friends. More flavourful with an abundance of juicy black cherry flavours is the Chilean
Terramater 1998 Zinfandel/Shiraz, a definite crowd-pleaser at $11.45. 

In terms of packaging, Georges Duboeuf 1998 "Milénage" ($11.85) the Vintages wine of the month is unbeatable. Produced by the king of Beaujolais, it's a tasty blend of grapes from Midi’s Pays d’Oc region - 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 10% Syrah. Its dry dusty plum flavours are a perfect match a steak and frites. As one taster muttered, "By George, he’s done it!" 

If you want a solid, well structured red at a reasonable price, try the darkly coloured 1996 Domaine La Tuilière - a faintly smoky, tight, mouthfiller at only $9.95. Originating in the Rhone’s Cotes-du-Ventou, it will tame the most robust of stews and can be aged for a year or two. 

Moving on to my two least-expensive "best buys." The first will charm the lips off any hardened Spanish wine lover who has been disillusioned with some of Vintages’ recent pricey entries. If Zinny black cherry fruit fits your taste profile, then rush out and try this charmer from the north east Navarra region -1997 Conde de Navasques a mere $10.35 a bottle. The lively Grenache and Tempranillo grapes have been blended with Merlot (28%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (23%) with just the right touch of barrel aging. 

Totally different, but still quite interesting is the crisp, medium light-bodied Caputo 1996
Aglianico ($12.50). Aglianico is a grape that thrives in the volcanic soils of Puglia, the heel of Italy’s boot, and is best known for its appearance in Taurasi. The chestnut purée and spicy, ready-to-drink, cranberry fruit flavours are a good match for red meats. 

In terms of slightly higher-priced fruit-directed wines, two excellent Australian Shiraz that shouldn’t be missed. The first has gobs of sweetish, rounded, ripe raspberry fruit - Flanagan’s Ridge 1996 Shiraz. It’s at its peak and is very well priced at $17.85. Even better is the classically-styled Richard Hamilton 1998 Gumper’s Block Shiraz a "best buy" at $18.95. It’s cedary, fresh baked plum and cassis flavours show beautifully. With 449 cases available, lay away a few bottles to enjoy in one or two years down the road. 

In a similar fruit-driven vein from California is the spicy, sweetish, cedary-vanilla flavoured R.H. Phillips 1997 Syrah ‘Exp’ at $20.95 would provide an excellent match to ribs or a rack of lamb. More subdued but with more structure is the thankfully dry, spicy, black cherry flavoured Fife 1997 Zinfandel Redwood Valley at $24.85. My favourite of the four Zins released. 

From Greece the approachable 1996 Domaine Gerovassiliou at $18.80 offers bright, zesty, cherry and buttered toast flavours that would be perfect with lamb shish kebabs. 

Moving into the realm of less fruit-driven wines, there are several fine candidates. Having tasted all seven Bordeaux, my best buy recommendation **+ is the least-expensive 1996 Chateau Peychaud ($17.70) from the Cotes de Bourg and based on ‘vieilles vignes’ Merlot. This medium full-bodied classic is nicely structured with fine dried plum flavours - perfect with a rib steak. It was only outscored by the consistently stunning 1996 Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte at $78.75 which received my top *** score and is actually worthy of the price. 

A well-made Cahors from southwest France 1996 Chateau Lagrezette at $20.95 should excite Bordeaux fans. This extracty blend of Malbec, Merlot and Tannat features chocolate, baked plums and pencil shavings. 

From Burgundy, my choice would be Rion 1998 Bourgogne Pinot Noir, which at $19.90 represents fair drinking value with its gently spicy, dried red cherry flavours. The
Harmand-Geoffroy 1996 Gevrey-Chambertin at $37.95 is reasonably impressive, albeit youthful, with a slightly smoky beetroot finish. As for the other two entries, they didn’t seem worthy of a detour at the price. 

Two eccentric entries are also worth exploring. You will either love or hate the
leathery-flavoured 1996 Dingac at $17.80 from Croatia. Its complex, stewed lime and
balsamic flavours are perfect for game. Made from the local Plavac Mali grape, it may be related to Zin! Equally obscure but with more structure and extract is the complex Gaston Hochar 1993 Chateau Musar ($36.95). This rich earthy-tobacco flavoured Lebanese blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cinsault would be perfect with roast pig. 

In passing, Canadian wine authority and friend Andrew Sharp passed away this week at the age of 57. His independence, critical thinking and droll sense of humour will be missed by all of us who knew him. A service is being held today at the Kingdom Hall of Jehovah’s Witnesses 256 Eglinton Avenue West at 3 pm. )