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Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist - Michael Vaughan

"Father's Day gifts for brows of all heights"

(Publishing Date: Saturday June 17, 2000  - Toronto Section)

They come in all shapes and sizes – short ones, tall ones, round ones and thin ones. Some never seem to leave the office; others live to golf and some just dote in their gardens. And they’re dads, each and every one of them and tomorrow’s their day.

So what to buy? Let’s start off with the dad who knows everything, or likes to think of himself that way. Assuming you got a few bucks to throw around, my choice would be the recently revised edition of The Oxford Companion to Wine (Oxford University Press). Edited by Jancis Robinson ($89.95) this 820-page monster which weighs 2.8 kilos and contains the most recent information about virtually every wine and winemaking techniques around the world. This opus on liquidity is a tad dry and really isn’t for beginners. It also requires good eyesight given the very small print, so you might throw in a pair of reading glasses just for fun.

At the other end of the spectrum, at least in terms of weight and price is the ever-portable Pocket Encyclopedia of Wine 2000 (Simon & Schuster, $20.95) by Hugh Johnson. You get a whack of concise detail on more than 6,000 wines, growers and regions packed into its 280 pages. Even local Ontario wines get brief mention i.e. Cave Springs *** (out of 4) “Ontario boutique: sophisticated Chard and Ries. Big restaurant, popular tourist stop.”

If your dad’s a Martini fan don’t miss the excellent, profusely illustrated The Martini An Illustrated History of an American Classic by Barnaby Conrad III (Raincoast Books, $34.95). This delicious read traces its evolution, renaissance, as well as its bastardization by Jerome Zerbe, society editor of Town and Country, who introduced the “Vodkatini” in 1951. You may want to pack it up with a bottle of the exquisite Daresbury Quintessential Dry Gin at $39.95 on the General List.

Of course, some dad’s never seem to break a bookcover and are glued to the TV set. These types are much more appreciative of receiving an actual bottle than reading about it. Indeed, I shudder to think that some don’t even like wine. To these guys, it’s the sheer volume (i.e. number of bottles) that matters! But don’t despair - there is one truly great, wonderfully inexpensive, Polish brew that was just released at Vintages last Saturday. Medium gold in colour, ‘Hevelius Classic’ a bargain at only $2.10 for 400 ml (13.5 oz) will charm the socks off any die-hard. It’s creamy, well balanced, gently honeyed, wheaty flavours make it a wonderful refresher for a hot summer day.

And then there are those whose lips never touch beer, only Champagne will do. For this group you might venture forth and discover the charms of Lanson ‘Black Label’ Brut another recent Vintages release at $43.45. At one time this well-made, classy, flavourful sparkler graced the LCBO General List. Perhaps its image was tarnished by its lower-priced, carbonated namesake that was so ably delivered by Mabel. In any case, it’s back and definitely worth investigating.

For those who are less concerned about origins, make sure you don’t miss trying one of North America’s best bubblies. This Vintages “Essential” hails from California’s Anderson Valley. It always amazes me with its refined toasty flavours that I find definitely preferable to some of the higher-priced, well-known Champagnes! Roederer Estate Brut at $29.95 simply can’t be beat. 

For dads-on-the-go who like to pick up the occasional vinous treasure abroad, nothing beats the Apogee One - “the ultimate wheeled briefcase.” Jean-Paul Thieblot owner of Quebec-based Excel Luggage thoughtfully created it in 1997. You will be thrilled with its flexibility and the fact that it has numerous compartments accommodating both legal and letter file folders, cells phones, etc. Better yet, it’s heavily padded meaning that it’s a breeze to safely carry (or at least wheel) up to 10 bubble-wrapped bottles at a time. You can call (905) 944-8984 to find out the store nearest to you that sells it. It lists for $250 but is discounted by various retailers, I suggest you try Evex in Toronto which quoted $195!

For the sport’s dad who is fond of spirits, Hardy’s ‘Fisherman’s Flask’ Extra Fine Champagne Cognac makes a dandy little portable potable at $64.90 for 200 ml. from Vintages. For those with a bigger thirst, the outstanding, just-released, Virgin Island ‘Proprietor’s Reserve’ Single Barrel Estate Rum at $39.95 should not be missed. The refined, rounded, caramel-vanilla flavours have a lovely, elegant, dry lingering finish. Only 2,500 cases of hand-blown numbered bottles are produced annually with Ontario’s allocation being only 432 bottles!

Finally for meditative dads who enjoy lingering over a fine meal, nothing can beat the joy of a great dessert wine and what better than a great Madeira at an excellent price. Released last month in Vintages this Justino Henriques “Broadbent” 5-Year-Old Madeira Reserve is simply without parallel at only $19.75. It’s creamy, sweet, faintly smoky, chocolate-covered, ripe black cherry and warmed prune flavours have just the right touch of balancing citrus zest. Indeed, it is one of the best 5-year-olds I have ever tasted. Only 75 cases were shipped so you will have to check the info-line to find which store carries the remaining stock.