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W I N E S, SPIRITS & BREWS – November 20, 1999

The Scoop on today's Vintages 1998 
Icewine Release Saturday, 
November 20,1999

By MICHAEL VAUGHAN

It’s always risky to pontificate on what’s best, especially since some of these
wines may not be showing well because they have just been bottled. But as today is Ontario’s official launch for 28 new icewines at Vintages, I will give it my best shot.

For the uninitiated, icewine put Canada on the world wine map by winning a gold medal at the French Vinexpo almost a decade ago. Ontario is the world’s largest supplier. Only the ripest of grapes attaining 35% sugar or more can be used and they must be picked at 8 C or less. Rich, sweet and sticky, they are hard to judge. As this liquid gold will cost you a small fortune starting at $29.95 per half bottle; you will want to bag the best.

Judging them blind enables me to cut through the hype and ferret out "the best" (which is always to a certain degree a matter of taste). Three grapes are normally used to produce icewine: Vidal, Riesling and Gewürztraminer (as well as some tiny lots of Cabernet Franc for red icewine).

Let me start with the bad news - there are no spicy Gewürztraminers - 1998 was just too hot. As for the French hybrid called Vidal from which most icewine is made, there are 22 to choose from. Prices vary from $29.95 to $52.95 per half bottle. The secret to good Vidal is getting clean clusters of grapes without any mold. Thick skins protect Vidal from the latter but not from passing flocks of hungry birds. A hot summer produced very ripe grapes with higher levels of sweetness. Naturally, you need high levels of acidity to balance the sweetness.  The fresh fruit flavours of some suffered because of this summer heat plus winter thawing and refreezing.

Of the 22 Vidals (most being surprisingly dark in colour), the most highly rated was the rich, silky, vanilla-directed Hillebrand Trius at $44.95. Four were tied for second place. A viscous, very sweet Kittling Ridge, a zesty Chateau des Charmes ($45.00), the honeyed fruitcake-styled Konzelmann ($42.95) and a smoky pear purée Stoney Ridge ($39.95).

If I were to pick a best buy from the LCBO group, the hands down winner would be the tropical inspired Southbrook Vidal at only $29.95. And if it’s a tasty bargain you’re looking for, you can’t beat Magnotta’s Vidal at $27.95. Sold only in Magnotta stores, it was pre-released this summer at an astounding $19.95 and is still a great buy even at the higher price.

Riesling is considered the king of icewines. The lower yields means that it’s more expensive. It is lighter coloured than Vidal and more delicate on the palate. 1998 is the best vintage ever for this grape! I tasted all six Riesling icewines from today’s release plus an additional four (only available at the respective winery). Of the group released today, my first choice is Inniskillin ($69.95) with its spicy, sweet, baked tangerine flavours. Second place wasn’t far behind - a four-way tie between a refined, pear-driven Cave Springs ($59.95), a zesty, ripe green apple Thirty Bench ($43.95), a creamy caramelized apple Chateau des Charmes ($59.95) and an elegant candied lemon peel flavoured Henry of Pelham (54.95).

As for the best ’98 icewine, my vote goes to the barrel fermented 1998 Strewn Riesling with its smoky, vanilla-laced, Seville orange marmalade flavours. The 1,200 bottles will soon be available at the winery for $68.