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Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist - Michael Vaughan

Clones, smuggling and pinot envy

(Copy for Saturday, January 29, 2000 National Post Toronto Section)
(Illustration: King Estate 1996 Pinot Noir)

Of all wines, those based on pinot noir are the worlds most highly regarded. After all, what’96 red, other than Romanée Conti, would dare sell for $1,620 a bottle? At $62.88 an ounce, is anyone surprised that winemakers around the world are trying to replicate this Burgundian classic.

Unfortunately, few grapes are more temperamental than the thin-skinned, low-yielding pinot noir. With some 43 different varieties (or clones), it is critical to plant the right one. I remember attending a German Geisenheim wine course where world authority Dr. Helmut Becker laughed as he showed slides of the disease-ridden vineyards surrounding Beaune. “The French have the worst clones” he stated, “the Swiss are much healthier and prolific!”

He was only partly right because it’s the flavour of the French clones that drive connoisseurs mad with delight. As a result many Dijon cuttings have been illegally smuggled past the North America customs and now reside peacefully with those locally propagated at governmentally regulated nurseries.

Here in Ontario, Inniskillin partnered with Bernard Répolt from Burgundy’s Jaffelin in 1993 to produce Alliance Pinot Noir ($39.95). The results have been mixed. While quite charming in its youth, Alliance has yet to stand the test of time. In fact, Inniskillin has recently replaced it with Inniskillin Founder’s Reserve, which as of 1999 is being made by their new General Manager Philip Dowel an accomplished ex-Australian winemaker from Coldstream Hills. From the west, one can’t ignore BC’s excellent Okanagan pinot noirs and the bevy of international awards captured by Quail’s Gate.

California aside, the greatest success (and controversy) comes from Oregon where some 136 winemakers are producing reams of the stuff for an unquenchable market. While a multitude of factors that influence quality - clone, ripeness and low yields are perhaps most significant. And with the internationalization of winemaking techniques, stylistic differences relating to site are becoming less and less significant!

I bring all this up because on Tuesday, Feb. 1st at Roy Thomson Hall is the 9^th Pacific Northwest Wine Fair where more than 100 wines will be featured at afternoon trade and evening tasting events for $42 (call 416-410-4630).

To this end, I previewed 27 pinot noirs in a blind tasting. First the good news, ’97 is much better than ’96. Now the bad – quality is variable, prices are way up and availability down. In the early days, it was hard to sell this stuff. Today people line up. Importer Scott Wilson of Du Chasse Wines who pioneered their introduction almost a decade ago represents many producers. His 1997 Westrey Reserve Pinot Noir Croft Vineyard ($32) was the highlight with lovely, gently spicy, smoky, baked cherry flavours and a lingering cedary finish. I even preferred it to their fine higher-priced ‘97 Reserve ($42.30)! You’ll have a better chance of getting some regular (but very classy) ’97 Westrey ($26.95) which tied for second. Unfortunately, Westrey is gobbled up by the agent’s consignment program, meaning the Fair is likely to be the only place you’ll be able to taste it. And while several Toronto restaurants carry the Reserve, be careful of the ‘96 which isn’t comparable.

Tied for second was the elegant 1996 King Estate Vineyards Oregon Pinot Noir ($29.15) which, despite the challenging year, was most delicious with smoky vanilla and light ruby grapefruit and beet root flavours. Unfortunately, the importer Charton-Hobbs doesn’t have a consignment program so none is available.

For cheap and cheerful, if such a thing exists when it comes to Pinot Noir, check out 1997 Duck Pond which is only $14.95 on the LCBO General List. It’s very dry, medium-light bodied, dried cherry flavours make a perfect, drink-now, poultry partner.

Before leaving the Pacific Northwest, I would be remiss if I didn’t steer you towards some truly great Merlots featured at the Fair - the stunning 1998 Woodward Canyon Columbia Valley Merlot,  1997 Kiona Vineyards Washington Merlot and finally 1997 Foris Vineyards Rogue Valley Merlot. All three wines are represented by du Chasse (416) 860-9463.   

While I will be reviewing the Vintages release next Saturday, let me give you a tip on two excellent pinot noir buys. The first is the surprisingly rounded, faintly sweetish, cherry flavoured 1997 O. Leflaive Bourgogne Pinot Noir – fine ready-to-drink value at only $14.70. Better yet is the delicious 1997 A.F. Gros Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits with solid, slightly spicy, smoky, dried plum flavours. A steal at $22.45, only 75 cases are on hand so I suggest you rush out and nab few bottles for enjoying today or within the next few years.