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Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist - Michael Vaughan  

Move fast if you want to try this zippy Zinny

(Publishing Date: Saturday, March 4  - Toronto Section)

Before tackling the big, bold, lip-sticking reds in today's Vintages release I would like to toast readers with a fine preprandial - the single vineyard Hidalgo Pastrana Manzanilla Pasada ($15.90). Now that isn't a name you will find in many privatized wine shops.   

Indeed, even the LCBO incorrectly identifies it as a, God forbid, sherry. Well, that would have been true in the past, but today Manzanilla, which originates from nearby vineyards surrounding the seaside town of Sanlucar de Barrameda, is not officially allowed to be described as sherry.  

Manzanilla Pasada is made from the same grapes and in a similar method as sherry's Fino Amontillado. Deep straw in colour, it is light-bodied and dry with floral, freshly roasted almond flavours with a dash of salt and lemon peel. It is said that the more humid climate of this adjoining region accounts for the lower level of alcohol - 15.5% as compared to sherry's 18% plus. This is no longer the case. About five years ago, Tio Pepe, the world's largest-selling Fino, lowered its alcohol level to 15.5%.

Like its neighbour, serving Javier Hidalgo's aperitif slightly chilled with a variety of appetizers is bound to charm the most discerning of palates. Act quickly, however, as only 60 cases are available.  

Moving on to the bounty of gutsy reds in this release, some like the Cline Cellars 1996 Ancient Vines Carignane at $22.40 are extremely fruit driven. Deep purple in colour with a massive 14% alcohol, its cedary, minty, plumy, roasted black cherry flavours fill every nook and cranny of your mouth.

Cline’s carignane is grown Contra Costa County just over San Francisco's Golden Gate Bridge on the way to Sonoma. This was the first area in Northern California to be planted in vines and dates back to the 1840's! Indeed, there used to be some 27 pre-Prohibition wineries in this region.

Like Manzanilla, Carignane isn't a grape variety that's on everyone's lips. Originating in northeast Spain, few are aware that by the 1960s it became France's most widely planted black grape. Southern France, including the Rhône, was blanketed with it. Hearty and extremely high yielding, it produced prolific amounts of tight, often astringent vin ordinaire - a style that failed to capture the consumer's palate.

And so French growers have been on a recent rampage to tear it out, anxiously replanting it with tastier Syrah and Mouvdre.  

But, as the saying goes (and in this case it's true), oldies are goldies. It seems that once Carignane has been around for 40 plus years and the yields are significantly reduced, the quality of the wine becomes transcendental. In Cline's case, the 75- to 100-year-old vines yield only 1.5 to 2 tons per acre (versus its 12 ton potential). It's like the ugly duckling becoming a swan. Unfortunately, few if any growers have the patience or deep pockets to wait for this transformation, meaning that less and less will be available in the future. With only 3,170 cases of this Zinny look-alike being produced, the 300-case LCBO shipment will soon be gone.

I have two choices for robust Rhône reds. The first is the still youthful, modestly rich, smoky Chapoutier 1997 Crozes Hermitage Les Meysonniers, $21.95. This reasonably solid Syrah with gently peaty, dried plum and tomato leaf flavours needs another two years of cellaring before prime time. Even better is Pierre Perrin 1996 Coudoulet de Beaucastel. At $24.75, it is very supple and drinking nicely. The persistent leathery, gently smoky, plumy flavours make it a great match for game, roast pig or a rosemary infused rack of lamb.

Those who want big, distinctive flavours at bargain prices need look no further than the gamey Santa Barbara 1996 Salice Salentino at $10.70. Its slightly sweet, leathery, licorice-driven, dried black cherry flavours may not be for everyone but they are a terrific foil to tomato based dishes.

Another flavourful entry is Delheim 1998 Pinotage ($15.95) from the Stellenbosch region of South Africa. I love its distinctive, spicy, leathery, stewed sundried tomato flavours, which get better and better as it breathes. Too bad the shipper incorrectly invoiced the LCBO for this red, which should sell for $12.65!

If elegance is on the list, Tuscany has a serious blend of Sangiovese and Merlot that should not be missed - 1995 Brigante dei Barbi ($26.75) with its sublime, slightly sweet, smoky, black cherry, chestnut purée nose and taste.

            

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