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Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist - Michael Vaughan

A Knockout cider, and some summery whites
(Publishing Date: Saturday June 3, 2000  - Toronto Section)

I will never forget my first serious brush with cider, well at least one of its cheap cousins. It was in a “pub” in the Cheddar Gorge near Bristol more years ago than I care to think about. At that time, for a dollar you could get a gallon of scrumpy a rough unsweetened quaffer based on apple remnants used to make cider.  I remember that it came in a big white plastic container. If you sealed it up you would take your life into your hands because the container would quickly start to bulge with carbon dioxide from the still fermenting juice. That meant we had to drink quickly. And we did. Unfortunately, we soon discovered that scrumpy is a most dangerous thing.

All of these memories came flooding back while tasting a surprisingly delicious genuine cider being released next Saturday from Brittany’s house of Guillet Frères called Kerisac. I gazed cautiously at the hazy light gold coloured liquid that filled my glass. The fresh, spicy, slightly sweet smell of fermented apples hit my nostrils. The zesty, dry, lemon peel and effervescent applesauce flavours caressed my palate. Yikes, this is great I thought!

Fortunately, this French cider with 6% alcohol comes in a 750 ml bottle and costs $6.80. Now that’s at least twice as expensive than most domestic ciders but as they say vive la difference! It’s the real thing, with oodles of flavour (even if it doesn’t come from Normandy the traditional home of French cider). Nothing at the LCBO comes close to it.

As lobster season is at hand, it’s time to make plans to pick up some best buy Vintages whites being released next weekend. Let me start with Sauvignon Blanc whose crisp refreshing flavours will titillate your palate on a warm spring day. One of the best buys in next Saturday’s release comes from Spain’s Rueda region - Hermanos Lurton 1999 Sauvignon Blanc a steal at only $12 a bottle. It’s dry, well balanced, fresh, ripe gooseberry and citrus flavours are followed up by a fine lingering finish.  A perfect companion to seafood. 

Good white Bordeaux is hard to find, especially so when its inexpensive. And so it warms my heart to report that the LCBO has picked up 150 cases of the attractively zesty 1998 Chateau La Rose Du Pin a crisp, light bodied, grapefruit flavoured Entre-Deux-Mers which goes for a modest $11.85 a bottle. Don’t miss trying this unoaked blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon.

Slightly tarter and even less expensive is the 1999 ‘Le Tuquet’ from the Montravel region of Southwestern France which isn’t all that far from Bordeaux. At only $8.95, it represents great quaffing value, especially if oysters are your prime target. The slightly tart, unoaked, hard green pear flavours cry out for a creamy bivalve.

Perhaps an even better crustacean companion would be the somewhat more restrained Eyrie 1998 Pinot Gris from Oregon’s Willamette Valley at $22.95. Surprisingly deep yellow in colour, it’s gently spicy, mineral-directed, somewhat peppery, baked lemon flavours may not excite every palate for the money. It is, however, a fine example of what can be done with this variety in the Pacific Northwest and would make a great companion for a multitude of dishes from seafood to poultry.

If Chardonnay is on your list, then by some ironic twist of fate I was able to retaste the outstanding Sterling Vineyards 1996 Chardonnay Napa Valley released over a year ago on March 13, 1999 and initially under-priced at only $20.95. This wine was accidentally sent to the LCBO lab instead of the Sterling Vineyards 1998 North Coast Chardonnay scheduled to be released and priced at $24.70. Confusing? You bet! That’s because the LCBO uses the same code number (330233) for both products. In fact, they originate from different regions – the premium 1996 from Napa Valley as opposed to the North Coast for the 1998 (which is incorrectly identified as coming from the Napa in the LCBO Catalogue). The 1996 is terrific with an intense, complex, lemony, vanilla custard nose. It’s rich and mouthfilling with spicy, pear purée flavours and a creamy, lingering finish. Stunning value at $24.70, it’s a steal. Some 50 cases are still kicking around but you will have to act fast i.e. today! The LCBO info-line (416-365-5900) will tell you which stores have it in stock!

Last but not least is the opulent lychee flavoured Ca’ Del Solo 1998 Malvasia Blanca made by Boony Doon’s illustrious Randall Grahm. Only 168 cases of this very flavourful, dry, muscaty-pear-lychee-flavoured white are available.  Well structured and versatile – it will go with almost anything from poultry to shellfish even Thai cuisine.

Coming up on Suday, June 11 is Toronto Taste 2000. This 10th annual gourmet extravaganza featuring 70 chefs, more dishes than anyone could ever possibly taste, and a wide variety of fine wines and spirits. It is dedicated to raising funds for Second Harvest and begins at 6 p.m. at the Canadian Film Centre. Tickets are $175, call (416) 408-2594 to reserve.