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Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist - Michael Vaughan

An Excellent Vintages' Bounty of Fine Summery Whites

(Publishing Date: Saturday July 8, 2000  - Toronto Section)

Today’s Vintages release features 140 products of which 18 were not tasted. Of the untasted, 16 are "Selected Distribution" items (marked in the LCBO Catalogue with an asterisk). Theyare only available at 21 stores across the province. No inter-store transfers are allowed until one week after the release. 

While I can understand that initial distribution has to be limited due to the low number of cases purchased by the LCBO, it’s hard to comprehend why Vintages denies LCBO wine consultants (and wine writers) the opportunity to taste these products. The reason I am given is that ‘there’s no point in presenting these wines because they always sell out!’ Of course, every LCBO item eventually sells out. Moreover, this 'sell out excuse' seems to contradict what theVintages Director has to say: "every selected-distribution item in each of the last three releases (since January) has been available for customers to order a week after the release." 

My understanding is that these LCBO tastings are there as a service to the final customer reflecting the belief that a well-informed consultant will be better able to satisfy the customer. This is common practice amongst all enlightened retailers. Thus, by not providing these preview tastings the LCBO fails to give its customers the best service. Does it make sense for the LCBO to deprive their own consultants from tasting the very wines they are expected to sell? Isn’t it important to continuously extend the educational horizons of its staff? It’s time to get these wines out of the closet 
and into the glass. 

In terms of what to buy today, let’s kick off with the world’s most popular white - Chardonnay. Of the six "Selected Distribution" Chards, I was only able to taste the excellent Cloudy Bay 1998 Chardonnay thanks to its agent Tony Hirons. Only 56 cases are available at $25.85, so you will have to rush to one of the selected stores to snap up this one. 

For those who don’t live near one of these selected stores, don’t worry, there’s a real sleeper out there at a lower price. I am not referring to the other New Zealand white - the very crisp, fine and
fashionable Kim Crawford 1998 Unoaked Chardonnay. No sir, my choice would be the rich, toasty Chateau des Charmes 1997 St. David’s Bench Chardonnay at $19.95 making it definitely worthy of a detour. If you like ripe pear purée, baked citrus and crème caramel you will love this wine. I am happy to report that the LCBO snapped up a whopping 406 cases, enough  to accompany a whole flock of delectable, freshly-roasted, tender, Cumbrae Farms additive-free chicken. 

In a more economical vein, the Stonehedge 1998 Chardonnay at $14.95 will not disappoint. This bright, slightly lemony, California blend has been barrel fermented and has a very dry, surprisingly crisp finish. Also worth exploring is a very zesty, barrel fermented, effort from New York’s charming Finger Lakes district - the somewhat lighter-bodied Chateau Lafayette Reneau 1997 Chardonnay ($12.85) has some grapefruity, clove-driven spiciness on the finish. 

Other than the Chateau des Charmes, my best Chard buy would be the Chilean Domaine Oriental 1999 ‘Clos Centenaire’ Chardonnay available for a modest $12.55. It’s quite rich and mouthfilling with a stunning 14.5% alcohol. The dried lemony-pear flavours, vanilla tones (15% was barrelfermented) and persistent, gently peppery finish makes it perfect for white meats and poultry. Some 300 cases are available so it shouldn’t be too difficult to get this one. 

Moving on to Sauvignon Blanc. As a long-time fan of New Zealand’s Goldwater’s ‘Dog Point’ Sauvignon Blanc ($15.95), today’s release of the citrusy 1999 while perfectly acceptable, doesn’t quite match the lively peachy flavours that characterized the 1998 released last summer! 

Much cheaper and certainly quite delicious is the read-to-drink 1998 Chateau Pujos which is fantastic value at $8.85. This light bodied Bordeaux Blanc has very attractive, dry, crisp, very gently spicy, fresh grapefruit flavours. Not big or complex, the wide appeal style makes it an easy to enjoy summer refresher. 

Another fine buy is the light, crisp, slightly tart, unoaked, grapefruit tasting 1999 Domaine des Cassagnoles from the Gascogne region of southwest France. While the Vintages Catalogue says that this is a Colombard (although this grape name doesn’t appear anywhere on the bottle), it tastes more like a Sauvignon Blanc. At $7.95, it’s also downright cheap and cheerful (950 cases are available). 

Another great summer sipper is Riesling and my number one recommendation is Dr. Zenzen 1996 Valwiger Rosenhang ‘Apollo Falter’ Riesling Kabinett. You may not be able to remember its name, but its lovely flavours will linger on your mind - gently honeyed, mineral directed, spicy, ripe red apple-pear purée flavours followed up with a twist of lemon zest. You simply cannot get better German value - an extraordinarily reasonable $10.95! Only 210 cases are available so you will have to rush out today to get your bottles. 

From Portugal we have the fine, zesty, floral-directed Real Vincola 1999 Evel White with its dry, attractive, gently Muscaty, melon-lemon flavours is nicely priced at only $10.95. Pure perfection with a chicken salad sandwich. 

Last but not least is an Australian golden coloured blockbuster - Tyrrell’s 1997 ‘Lost Block’ Vineyard Hunter Valley Semillon ($19.85). Although it only has 10.4% alcohol, the crisp, still tight, dried pear, ripe lemon and green peach flavours go on and on suggesting that the best is yet to come. 

Finally, for those of you hanging out at the cottage with e-mail capability,drop me a line at mbv@total.net and I will send you the complete list of this month’s Vintages recommendations.