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Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist - Michael Vaughan  

A gem hidden amid LCBO chaos

(Publishing Date: Saturday, February 19th - Toronto Section)

Every week or so I receive updates on new wines appearing on the LCBO General List. At least once a month I venture forth to pretaste some of these items. And so it was with some surprise that I recently discovered that 1997 Foris Pinot Gris a wine, which usually would bless the monthly Vintages selections, had made it into the General List.

My concern for its well being stems from the fact that the General List is not a place that’s known to feature wines of quality. Indeed, it’s the scourge of the cognoscenti who see “general” a synonym for common, as in wine for the commoners who don’t know any better. From my own tasting experience there certainly are kernels of truth in this preconception. Most wines are there because of packaging, price and advertising. In fact I rarely report on these wines because of their profound mediocrity, which often verge on the undrinkable.

And so it goes with many trade buyers.  Many of Toronto’s pretentious restaurants compete amongst one another to wow you with exclusive wines that you’ve probably never heard of. You nod with admiration as the waiter rings off their names – you can’t afford to be a wine philistine. From the restaurant’s perspective, a private import permits an extra large mark-up without your knowledge. Unfortunately, some of these obscurities have to be privately ordered because they wouldn’t pass the mustard at formal Vintages pretasting panel sessions. Naturally, the local sommelier has to give passing recognition to the icons of wine that are actually worth drinking. After all, where would sales be without the Robert Mondavi Woodbridge selections?

And so I venture forth to uncover a bottle of Foris. I first call the LCBO Infoline (416 365-5900) to see which store closest to me has it in stock. Toronto’s Queens Quay #217 flagship store is figured and I jump into my car and head to the waterfront.  It’s 9:15 on Tuesday night and I find the USA section and start scouring the shelves. Five minutes later I come up empty-handed with nothing but eye fatigue. In the process, I get this weird feeling that there is only one state -California, that produces wine.  After all why would a newly released New York State Finger Lakes Vignoles be abandoned on the lowest shelf of the California wine section? And hey, why no special signage or even a scrap of information on any of the newly released products or the wines from Washington, Oregon, etc. Hasn’t the LCBO thought about trying to properly merchandise its everyday bread and butter products? Well yes and no! In total disregard for its customers, the LCBO only positions and/or provides information for those products whose producers pay for the privilege. If you are a tiny winery with no budget, you’re out of luck!

Not giving up, I approach the manager’s desk and upon inquiring we go back to the unsightly USA section to only rediscover that it isn’t there. “It’s a new product and it hasn’t come in yet,” I am told. Well this really is a revelation. Armed with the Infoline scoop, I press the point suggesting that “perhaps it’s in the back.” After a 15-minute wait the staffer reemerges triumphantly clutching a case in his hands. I feel like I have won the lottery and quickly check out with my prized bottle.

Getting back to the Pinot Gris in question, you are probably asking yourself what is this vinous white wonder. Its flavours have nothing in common with the world’s most popular white – Chardonnay. Indeed, it is a bastardly mutation of the Pinot Noir – the famous black of Burgundy. To make life even more difficult, there are probably more names for this grape than there are jokes about Monica Lewinski - Rulander in Germany, Tokay in Alsace, Pinot Grigio in Italy, Szurkebarat (or Grey Monk) in Hungary, and on and on.

The flavours and styles offered by Pinot Gris are staggering. Who would ever equate the bright, light, crisp, inexpensive Pinot Grigios of Fruili in Northern Italy with the rich, complex, sweetish, expensive Tokay Vendage Tardives of Alsace? Yes, Pinot Gris at the best of times is an enigma and one from the Pacific Northwest at $14.95 lost in the wilds of LCBO California section seemed destined for doom. While this might simply be a case of not being able to see the Foris for the trees (in this case the giant redwoods) one has to ponder the fact that 93% of all wines in Ontario sell for less than $7.50 a bottle. Moreover, unlike Vintages, there is no monthly catalogue or any press hoopla to chronicle this wine’s General List appearance.

Located just a few miles north of California border, I have a soft spot for the region having stayed at the wonderful Tu Tu’ Tun Lodge near the mouth of Rogue River. This is one of the few remaining protected wilderness regions in America. It’s hard to believe that a scant 25 miles east just over the coastal Siskiyou Mountains is a tiny region that produces some excellent wines. The fact that it’s a good five-hour drive from any major metropolitan area has likely dimmed the spotlight of visibility. If you plan to visit the region don’t miss the legendary Weasku Inn near Grants Pass.

Foris which in Latin means “out of doors” is located in the western reaches of the Rogue Valley appellation which has 82 vineyards consisting of 1159 acres separated into three distinct river valley microclimates.  Foris is Oregon’s most southerly winery and one of seven in this region. Controls are strict – all Oregon wines must contain at least 90% of the stated variety (versus 75% in most other regions) and blending more than 5% from another vintage is prohibited.  

Established in 1978, veteran winemaker Sarah Powell had her hands full with the 1997 vintage. The previous three vintages saw hot days and cool nights with a reasonably dry harvest which meant bright lively flavours and high 14% plus levels of alcohol. “In ’97 we had had light showers that began in early August and continued off and on until September. Plus we had one serious storm prior to our harvest in October. Fortunately our well drained soils, low cropping and ability to select the best from several of our vineyards resulted in a perfectly sound wine with perhaps less alcohol – only 13%.” It’s a level that would make most wine producers green with envy!

As for the 1997 Foris Pinot Gris, it’s fairly dry and unoaked with gently honeyed, somewhat spicy, floral-citrus flavours. The hints of bright lychee and ripe grapefruit make it perfect for seafood, poultry or white meats.  With .48% residual sugar, it should also work well with spicy Thai or Chinese. Out of 3,707 cases produced, the LCBO snagged 448 cases bless the General List. Foris has also produced an excellent 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc blend which will be coming in on a consignment basis next month. At under $20, it’s a best buy. For information call Scott Wilson at Du Chasse (416) 860-9463 and check out their website at www.foriswine.com