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The
Wine Glass
LIVE
WINE LINK I recently
delivered two seminars at the Edward Johnson Music Foundation fundraising in
Guelph. Before beginning I asked, “What is the most important thing about enjoying wine?” Everyone
appeared to know that it’s important to buy something good – obviously,
one they will like. Some suggest that decanting is critical to wine
enjoyment, at least for reds. At last
someone suggests the glass is important. Eureka – that’s it - the glass!
To make the point, I walk the group through a tasting analysis of one of the
wines, using the large, cup shaped glass that could double for water. We
collectively evaluate the fruit, the crispness, the aftertaste, etc. of the
first wine in this glass. Once
everybody has scored it, they are instructed to pour their wine into the
small tulip-shaped ISO glass. This glass was specially designed for
professional tasters and competitions. The audience swirls, smells and
tastes. There are a few gasps. “Where
has the fruit gone?” asks one attendee who simply can’t believe how
much the wine changed from simply putting it into a different shaped glass.
The scores are tallied up and everybody liked the bigger glass, some by a
substantial margin. The smaller
glass compressed the fruit and made the wine taste more acidic. It was as if
the wine had magically changed all by itself. In fact, the first glass with
its larger bowl and opening allowed the wine to gently coat the tongue
reducing the impression of acidity and heightening fruit. The smaller glass
funneled it down the center of the tongue increasing the impression of
acidity and diminishing fruit. The size,
shape and thinness of the glass along with the size opening all profoundly
change one’s perception of the wine’s characteristics. This point was
made by Georg Riedel,
a 10th generation Austrian glassmaker, in 1958 when his family’s firm
created Burgundy Grand Cru glass for connoisseurs wanting to extract the
last ounce of flavour from their prized Pinot Noirs. While
Riedel’s attempts to create the perfect wine glass for each specific wine
has been a blessing, there will never be “the perfect glass” for
everyone. Riedel’s glasses are designed to make a specific wine taste best
for most wine lovers. The same glass, however, will not work for everyone
because based on their own personal preferences, each individual responds
differently to what a specific glass does to a wine. The #1 lesson
is to find the glass that makes the wine taste best for your palate. It
means that the glass recommended by a sommelier, or even wine expert, may
not necessarily be best for you. As your enjoyment is at stake, the wine
glass you use - be it an expensive or cheap –
must be best for your palate. Changing the
glass can transform that ugly duckling wine scoring a mere 84 points, into a
beautiful swan-like 89 points. Stubbornly clinging to a favourite glass can
rob you of a wine’s potential pleasure. For comparative purposes, I force
myself to use the identical ISO glass for every wine. This ensures
consistency meaning that every wine gets exactly the same chance to strut
its stuff - even when I know that a more suitable glass would make a wine
taste so much better! For more on the role of the wine glass click
here. As
for today’s recommendations here are two, well priced, fine, floral-styled
Springtime whites from Vintages. From Alsace, you won’t be disappointed by
Martin
Steimer 2002 Gewurztraminer (709790) at
only $16.95. This fruity charmer has lingering, ripe melon and spicy lychee
flavours, which are absolutely ready to drink. Next we have the tasty, sippable 2003 Les Îles Blanches Viognier (594804) at $13.95 a Rhone Vin de Pays du Gard. Produced by Cellier des Chartreux, it has a gently honeyed, ripe melon nose and crisp, dry, medium-light bodied, pretty melon and ripe apple flavours. Coming up: A total 378 wines from Alsace and Rhone will be flowing abundantly at next Monday afternoon’s Sopexa trade-only tasting at the Carlu. For information use the npreader password and click here.2001-2002-2003-2004-2005
Tasting Note Database To
use our winefind.ca Tasting
Notes Database: click
here
Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada
2005 |