Michael Vaughan's Weekly National Post Feature

Dealing with Disappointments
This Bicyclette has a flat tire!
© Michael Vaughan 2005
National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
Saturday, August 6, 2005

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I got a note last week from a reader asking why I don’t I do more to warn people about newly released disappointments. It seems that this unhappy camper had picked up a bottle of Shiraz from the south of France from the July 23rd and didn’t like it. Because the wine in question was the first French effort from one of the world’s largest wineries, the reader went on to suggest that perhaps I was afraid to pan it.

Well comments like that certainly get the juices flowing. First, I don’t have enough space to list all the items that should be avoided - this is the kind of stuff that appears in my newsletter and website. Second, if something is awful, extremely overpriced and/or over-hyped, I try to caution readers. The are tens of thousands of simply ok wine that might even be enjoyed by some and shouldn’t be given a big thumb’s down.

While some of the greatest wines come from tiny wineries, I do not support the notion “the smaller the better”. I have tasted an enormous number of disappointing wines from tiny producers. Conversely, mega wineries can produce terrific, as well as, mediocre wines. Imbibers must keep in mind that a wine may be cork-tainted without tasting obviously corked. When this happens, just return it with your receipt to the LCBO for refund.

Getting down to the item in question, there are 1,011 cases of Red Bicyclette 2003 Syrah (586776) $17.95 at Vintages. This French Vin de Pays d’Oc has been made for Gallo by Le Caves de Sieur d’Arques. I have now tasted it three times and, unfortunately, this inauspicious bicyclette has a bit of a flat tire. It is rather innocuous with slightly tangy, plum and sandalwood flavours. Perhaps this particular batch of 2003 (the lot number on the back label is L4322A) has been constructed for US mass market, where having too much character/flavour is a bad thing. Basically, it is not worth $17.95!

Moving on, kicking off today’s Vintages release recommendations is a dynamic duo from New Zealand. Somehow Vintages managed to get the selling price of the first recommended white wrong. The dry, lip smacking, grassy, grapefruit tinged Jackson Estate 2004 Sauvignon Blanc (963124) sells for $19.95, not $13.95 as listed in the Catalogue. Even at the higher price, it is still a fine buy.

I was also informed by Vintages that the $18.95 price of Jackson Estate 2004 Unoaked Chardonnay (696286) would be dropped to $17.95. I have now been told that the price will remain the same - will not change from $18.95! Perhaps it is just a case of Vintages zero gravity where what goes up doesn’t come down.

This tasty Chard comes from the Marlborough Region of the South Island where owner John Stichbury and his wife Jo live on the family homestead built by John’s grandfather, Adam Jackson in 1902. Winemaker Mike Paterson has done an admirable job creating this super fresh, peachy, ripe lemon flavoured effort, which is meant for immediate enjoyment. It will be great with seafood.

With all the heat and humidity, nothing beats a frosty glass or two of Portuguese Vinho Verde and in today’s release you will find a good one made from Arinto and Loureiro grapes. Quinta de Santa Maria 2004 Vinho Verde (704858) at $12.95 is designated as a Colheita Seleccionada. It has honeyed, melon-yellow grapefruit flavours and a dry, tangy finish.

Looking for an inexpensive, cheerful Sauvignon Blanc? Don’t miss Haut-Poitou 2004 Sauvignon (119222) at only $10.95 from the French VDQS northwest region around Poitiers. Look for gently grassy, refreshing, lime-tinged, grapefruit and ripe lemon flavours.

Searching for something spicy? Try the 2003 Muscat Sec Terres Blanches (653188) at $13.95. This Vin de Pays d’Oc from the French Midi has lovely, lightly spicy, honeyed, Muscat-lychee aromas but is fairly dry on the palate. A winner with hot Thai cuisine.

Excellent for afternoon or evening sipping is the August ISD (In-Store Discovery) Dr. Thanisch 2002 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese (655456) at a well-priced $19.95. As Vintages now refuses to put these wines out for assessment, I managed to taste the trio of new German ISDs thanks to Ron Fiorelli of the German Wine Institute. Look for gently honeyed, gently sweet but refreshing, melon-grapefruit-Seville orange marmalade flavours. Yummy!

At the peak of accessibility is the well-structured California McManis 2003 California Viognier (658112) at $19.95. This maturing gold medal winner from the 2004 California State Fair has slightly spicy, stewed lemon-pear flavours that would marry well with roast chicken.

As for the multitude of reds, one of today’s best buys is Septima 2002 Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon (604678) at $10.95. This crowd-pleasing Mendoza blend is very bright and juicy with lots of ripe black cherry flavours. Owned by Codorníu of Spain, this new, state-of-the-art winery is located in the prime growing area of Agrelo at the foot of the Andes.

Finally, those yearning for a great Rhone should make a detour for Clos du Calvaire 2001 Châteauneuf-du-Pape (728139) at $35.95. This blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 5% Mourvedre and 5% Cinsault has a sturdy 14.5% alcohol and yet shows surprising accessibility with its extracty, spicy, roasted black cherry flavours.

2001-2002-2003-2004-2005 Tasting Note Database
Our tasting note database from December 31, 2000 to May 2005, covers every Vintages release product for the past 53 months. There are more than 9,000 notes in the database data. Just enter the name of the product, supplier name or CSPC number. Or you can search by type of wine, country of origin, even wine agent! Nothing could be easier. Also you can get information on the agent by clicking on the agent’s name, as well as current LCBO store inventory by clicking on "Check LCBO Availability", which will automatically tell you the number of bottles at LCBO as of last night.

To use our Tasting Notes Database: click here

** For All Visitors **
Vintages Releases
To see the complete list of upcoming 91 products from the
August 20, release click here (sorted by date of release).
You can also see it sorted by agent click here
To see the complete list of upcoming 102 products from the
September 3 release, including 19 In-Store Discovery items,
click here (sorted by date of release).
You can also see it sorted by agent click here

Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2005
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
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Contact Michael Vaughan at
mbv@total.net