Michael Vaughan's Weekly National Post Feature

A Trip in a Glass
Fine wines to transport you to far-away destinations
© Michael Vaughan 2005
National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
Saturday, May 28, 2005

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One of the great joys of tasting wine is imagining a visit to the region where the wine was made. Judging by today’s Vintages release of four Ports and a Madeira, I am packing my make-believe bags and heading to Portugal.

To start with, it seems that Vintages has finally got something right, even if it isn’t the timing. For the first time in memory, the entire June release of five fortified wines, have all attained a “recommended” status. Given how fussy I am, that isn’t an easy task!

While fortified wines are not things one usually associates with the end of May, fine 1998 LBV (Late Bottles Vintage) in the $23 range are always welcome. Of the two released, I give a slight edge to the intensely purple coloured Churchill’s 1998 LBV Port (596627) at $23.95 with its sweet, plumy-prune flavours (being released June 11). If you want something with more age, Cockburn’s 20 Years Old Tawny ‘Director’s Reserve’ Port (368076) at $59.95 hits the spot with its creamy, caramel-chocolate-plum flavours (also June 11).

Of course, white Port is perfect for this time of year especially when served well chilled by itself or as an aperitif on the rocks with a twist of lemon. Imagine drifting down the Duoro River surrounded by those steep terraces as the temperature soars to 48 C clutching a chilled pitcher of Quinta Do Infantado White Port (592865) at $17.95. While relishing its sweet tangerine and honeyed apricot flavours, remember to keep it refrigerated once opened.

Many are surprised to discover that certain Madeiras can be served in the identical manner. The lightest and driest style is known as Sercial and was originally named after the Cerceal grape from which it was once made. The style is not that well known and this is only the fourth Sercial to surface in Vintages in five years, so don’t miss it.

Cossart Gordon Madeira Sercial 5 Years Old Fine Dry (722975)at $21.95 is one of those succulent sippers taken in the late afternoon in the warmth the setting sun on the terrace of Madeira luxurious landmark Reid’s Palace Hotel. A refreshing, gently bitter finish balances its sweet, ripe lemon peel and quince flavours. A perfect foil for warm hors d’oeuvres hopefully served by someone wearing spotless white gloves.

Getting back to reality and moving on to the whites, it is unfortunate that the words inexpensive and delicious don’t seem to come together very often in today’s release. The best buy is the aromatic, ripe melon flavoured from Italy’s Alto Adige. Tiefenbrunner 2003 Pinot Grigio (954024) at $16.95 is the kind of wine you will want to share during that romantic Italian vacation. Serve this and you won’t be singing O Solo Mio!

This release has two stellar Chardonnays. The first, a Pouilly-Fuissé, comes from southern Burgundy known as Maconnais. Decades ago, Chablis and Pouilly-Fuissé were the starters of choice, at least if you could afford it. It seems, however, that the reputation of the latter was tarnished by some inconsequential, overpriced wines capitalizing on the wine’s reputation.

Happily, Georges Duboeuf 2003 Pouilly-Fuissé (732768) at $26.95 is a testimonial of what can be done in an extremely hot year. It is very well balanced with lots of delicious, bright, ripe Anjou pear flavours and a lingering finish. First class!

Moving upwards, Antinori 2002 Cervaro Della Sala (512376) at $53.95 is an absolute classic from Italy’s Umbria. The mineral-tinged, rich, ripe pear purée flavors with hints of buttered toast and lime are actually worth the investment!

Moving to reds, Pinot Noir fans should make a beeline to New Zealand’s Seresin Estate 2003 Pinot Noir (655167), which at $39.95 outperforms the Burgundies costing up to $64.95! Unfiltered and aged for 15 months in French oak (25% new), it has very gently smoky, earthy, plumy, dried ripe black cherry flavours and a cedar tinged finish. Originating in the Marlborough region, only 56 cases (of 6) of this In Store Discovery (ISD) was released yesterday.

Finally, if you like to waltz, then this Austrian sparkler will bring music to your lips. Schlumberger Blanc de Blancs Brut Sekt (284596) at only $13.95 is made in the classic French “méthode traditionnelle”. Its effervescent, zesty, melon-citrus flavours make you want to dance.

2001-2002-2003-2004-2005 Tasting Note Database
Our tasting note database from December 31, 2000 to April 2005, covers every Vintages release product for the past 52 months. There are more than 9,000 notes in the database data. Just enter the name of the product, supplier name or CSPC number. Or you can search by type of wine, country of origin, even wine agent! Nothing could be easier. Also you can get information on the agent by clicking on the agent’s name, as well as current LCBO store inventory by clicking on "Check LCBO Availability", which will automatically tell you the number of bottles at LCBO as of last night.

To use our winefind.ca Tasting Notes Database: click here

** For All Visitors **
Vintages June 2005 Release
To see the complete list of upcoming 169 products click here (sorted by date of release). It includes the number of cases, which wines were presented by the LCBO, our agent ID for every product,
as well as, the 26 “In Store Discoveries” for June.
You can also see it sorted by agent click here

Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2005
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
(electronic or other wise) and or quotation.
Contact Michael Vaughan at
mbv@total.net