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Putting a little "hop" into your Easter brunch
© Michael Vaughan 2006
National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
Saturday, April 15, 2006

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All listings are automatically linked to the LCBO database)
If there is a product that interests you, just click on the name below and you will instantaneously connected with the LCBO database. The product will appear in blue and all you have to do is click on the name again and then the next screen will provide details along with the store search. Just click on store search. The number of bottles in each store is updated nightly. Call the store first to see if stock still remains (each store phone number is listed).

It's Easter and Spring is in the air. Here is your wine guide for those planning an Easter brunch with family and friends. Kicking things off are two recommended bubblies, which definitely will give you and your guests a lift. The first is a recent Vintages release. The very well priced Conde de Caralt Brut Cava (664623) at only $12.95 will please any discerning fan of the classic, dry, Spanish "brut" style. Look for an attractive, ripe lemon-apple nose followed up by lively, bright, medium-light bodied, lemon-melon flavours with fine effervescence.

Those searching for something with a bit more depth and flavour, should try the bargain-priced Georges Gardet Cuvée Saint Flavy Brut Champagne (924654) in Vintages at $37.95. It firm, dry and quite well structured with attractive, ripe, lemon-melon flavours followed up by a lingering, very slightly toasty finish.

White wines are always a Springtime hit, especially with fresh seasonal asparagus. A definite hit would be Domaine des Salices 2004 Viognier (487272) at $12.95. Produced by brothers Jacques et François Lurton, this very tasty French southern Vin de Pays d'Oc comes with a screwcap closure. Look for very attractive, slightly spicy, honeyed, floral, melon aromas and a crisp, dry, tangy, ripe lemon-melon flavours with a spicy, lychee-tinged finish. It is the kind of whiter that will go with almost anything.

While Chenin Blanc is probably best known for producing somewhat bland California whites, when it shines - it shines. My release highlight white is Morgenhof 2004 Chenin Blanc (978544) at $13.95 from South Africa. This class act and tremendous value has a lovely, complex, gently nutty, ripe lemon nose and gently honeyed, very well structured, dry but harmonious, lemon-melon flavours with great length. Perfect with seafood or poultry.

More idiosyncratic is Disznókó 2004 Tokaji Dry Furmint (681544) at $12.95, which hails from Hungary and is made with Furmint grapes grown in the Tokaji region. The nose is very floral with lots of spice and gently honeyed, fresh melon-apple aromas. On the palate it is crisp and medium-light bodied with faintly sweetish, very spicy, ripe melon flavours with a lingering finish. A winner, especially if some spicy Indian cuisine is on your menu.

Chardonnay always seems to be a fairly safe bet. From Ontario at only $18.95, we have the toasty, maturing Jackson Triggs 2002 Proprietors' Grand Reserve Chardonnay (593996). This is a fairly big white with complex, gently spicy, smoke-tinged, ripe lemon-melon flavours and hints of caramel and French vanilla ice cream on the finish. A bit too much for seafood, it would be best with poultry.

Continuing in the toasty vernacular is the Vintages essential R.H. Phillips 2004 Toasted Head Chardonnay (594341) at $19.95 price. It is a bit fresher and leans more in a pear puree direction with intense, gently juicy, ripe lemon flavours plus a lingering, toasty finish. You can make some bunny happy by serving it with a tasty veal, not rabbit, terrine.

Those wanting something brighter might try the surprisingly juicy Ironstone 2004 Sierra Foothills Chardonnay (355776) at $16.95. It has less oak and perhaps greater versatility with ready-to-drink, very tangy, fresh, ripe melon flavours.

Moving on to reds, I have shied away from the big blockbusters and looked for easy-to-drink reds that will accompany traditional Easter dishes. For instance, here is a rather nice, reasonably-priced, ready-to-drink Pinot Noir from Burgundy that pretty much hits the spot. Vincent Girardin 2003 Bourgogne Cuvée St-Vincent (727966) at only $19.95 shows well-balanced, ripe plum and red cherry flavours. This perfect crowd-pleasing Easter red would marry well with ham or poultry.

From Spain, another best buy would be Bodegas Luzon 2004 Finca Luzon Tinto (672915) at $10.95. This blend of Monastrell (Mourvèdre) and Syrah has a very deep intense purple colour and yet shows good accessability. The plummy, ripe raspberry nose is followed up by harmonious, dry, juicy, ripe cherry flavours.

My release favourite at $19.95 is big and bold. I loved the complex, gently smoky, intense, juicy, plummy-black cherry flavours of Brampton 2004 Shiraz 2004 (674523) at $19.95, which comes from South Africa's Coastal Region and is produced by the well-known Rustenberg winery. This mouthfilling red is a blend of Shiraz with 8% Mourvedre and 2% Viognier, which is aged for 16 months in small French oak. If your looking for something that will put that extra hop in your gait, then this is it.

Finally, while Easter isn't a time of year that you pass the Port, I would be remiss if I didn't recommend Ramos-Pinto 1998 Late Bottled Vintage Port (951335) an excellent buy at $19.95. Look for well structured, spicy, sweet, plummy, juicy cherry flavours with a lingering, chocolate-vanilla-plum finish. It is so good, that you may end up not passing the bottle at all!

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Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2006
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
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Contact Michael Vaughan at
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