Recent Articles |
A
Survivor's Guide to the 2006 California Wine Fair LIVE
WINE LINK I am looking at the 62-page California Wine Fair tasting book for Monday's April 10 event at the Royal York Hotel (those wishing to attend should go to www.calwine.ca). Some 388 items from 106 wineries will be up for grabs. I wonder how attendees manage to taste all these wines. Given the often rather crowded conditions, it would be impossible to taste everything in the short 2-½ hour window provided. At $60 admission, one would like to believe that would-be tasters would have some kind of tasting plan in place. Amazingly enough, few if any are prepared for this oral onslaught. I have tried to come up with the solution to the dilemma of so many wines, so little time. Getting the most from such massive tastings isn't easy. It is sad but true, that most attendees don't have a clue about what is being presented because they do not have an organized list of wines being tasted prior to the event. There are three components of such a list. First, there is the "who" as in from which winery. Second, there is the "what" meaning what wine. These basics are critical to your tasting decisions. To begin with, many fans will search out specific wineries they want to taste. In the case of the California event, that is easy as there is a clear 3-page table of contents alphabetically listing the wineries (although 12 attending wineries are missing from the catalogue). What isn't so easy is to figure out is which wines you want to taste. Suppose that you wish to start looking at whites, such as Pinot Grigio, or Chardonnay. There is absolutely no listing of wines being presented by varietal. To help National Post readers, I have created lists by varietal, which are available on my website. If you are looking for Pinot Grigio, for instance, 10 are available. For Pinot Noir, there are 35. Cabernet Sauvignon is the perennial biggy with some 80 entries plus all the Mertitage blends. Finally, and perhaps most important, is where. Given that there are 106 attending wineries on some 79 tables, you need to know where the wine is. This is a serious problem, as tasting layouts are generally never provided in advance. Sometimes, the layout is done by winery alphabetically. This enables tasters to pop around the room to easily find the winery they are looking for. In California's case, wines are basically laid out on tables sorted by agent. To find the wines you will need a table number guide, which, unfortunately, does not appear in the catalogue. To save National Post readers' time and frustration, I have the complete 79-table floor plan on my Web site (click here). Of course, catalogues are rarely perfect. There isn't, for instance, any background information on the wines. Nor is there room on the page to make adequate tasting notes. Believe it or not, the worst-case scenario I have ever experienced is with catalogues that had no page numbers! You couldn't find anything. Attendees should not have to waste time writing down the details of a wine. The price, availability (or expected arrival), LCBO number, agent's name/phone number, etc. should be available for every item presented. If not listed in the tasting guide, agents should be required to have a sheet with this information. Having previewed 68 wines in a comparative blind tasting by varietal, Pinot Noir followed by Chardonnay are the most improved groupings. I am happy to report that all the 10 Chards tasted (from $15.55 to $71.40) have shed the excessive oak that has characterized some previous releases. They are bright and quite attractive, although in some instances, on the pricey side of the equation. All eight Pinot Noir tasted (from $19.95 to $61.95) were extremely good. An astonishing six scored above 89 points! The highest scoring red with 93 points was Tandem Winery 2003 Sangiacomo Vineyard Pinot Noir from the Sonoma Coast at $61.95. It is available from agent Zoltan Fekete at Kylix International (table 79) and will be in the LCBO's Fall Classics Catalogue. As Vintages has abandoned its Classics Catalogue public preview tastings, this will be your only chance to try it! Also, from the same winery is another terrific effort, Tandem 2003 Peloton Red at $35.95, which will be released (56 cases) in Vintages as an ISD (in-store discover) on July 8. This unorthodox blend of 81.5% red (40% Pinot Noir, 6% Sangiovese, 16% Zinfandel, 17% Syrah and 2.5% Carignane) and 18.5% white (14% Chard with .5% Viognier and 4% Gewurztraminer) is a first class and should not be missed. Other outstanding Pinot Noir include, the rich, well-structured Testarossa Vineyards 2004 Palazzio Pinot Noir about $45 (table 69), the elegant Chateau St. Jean 2004 Sonoma County Pinot Noir at $24.95 (table 20) and plummy, ripe cherry flavoured Greg Norman Estates 2004 Pinot Noir Santa Barbara at $23.95 (table 19). Another high-scoring, reasonably-priced red is Morgan 2003 Monterey Syrah at $29.95 (table 17). Look for very tasty, well-structured, slightly smoky, plummy baked cherry flavours. Note that their recently released delicious 2002 is still available at Vintages (673764). To taste this and other wines, you will need a list of what is being presented and where they are located. National Post readers can find the appropriate lists on my website. Michael Vaughan's 2006
California Wine Fair Survivor's Guide Sorted by major grape variety
(A-Z) with winery/wines & table location 2001-2002-2003-2004-2005
Tasting Note Database To
use our Tasting
Notes Database: click
here
Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada
2006 |