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The Top Ten Canadian Wineries
©
Michael Vaughan 2006
National Post
Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
Saturday,
July 1, 2006
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From a nation of founded on whiskey and beer, it is amazing to discover that today homegrown Canadian wine has become one of our main staples. From coast to coast, new wineries are springing up each one offering new taste sensations. They are rapidly becoming part of our cultural fabric, offering us everything from culinary treasures to repositories of art, theatre and music.
As the National Post weekly wine columnist I have tried to come up with the top ten Canadian wineries. Here are my choices by region.
Nova Scotia
Most people forget that Canada's earliest vineyards were planted here in the 1630's. Early French settlers, however, soon gave up as the Bordeaux varieties, which quickly succumbed to the cold winters. It wasn't until the 1970s, when Roger Dial opened Grand Pré, Nova Scotia's first winery. The tiny Annapolis Valley vineyard was initially planted with winter hearty Russian varieties as well as hybrids from Germany and France. Today there are some eight wineries with more in the works. Plantings include classic vinifera, such as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
Destination Nova Scotia: Jost Vineyards
48 Vintage Lane, Malagash
800-565-4567
www.jostwine.com
Hours 9 am to 6 pm daily until September 15
Tours at noon and 3 pm
Deli on site with local cheeses
Located on the Northumberland Straight (referred to as the 'sunshine coast" of Nova Scotia), Hans Christian Jost and his wife Karen run the province's longest established winery. Almost three dozen wines available and can be tasted for free, with the exception of their recent double gold winning 2004 Ortega Icewine (only $20 for 200 ml). With about 40,000 visitors annually, Jost wines can also be tasted at the Saturday markets in Halifax and Truro - something that is, unfortunately, disallowed in some provinces.
Destination Nova Scotia: Domaine de Grand Pré
11611 Highway 1, Grand Pré
1-866-GPWINES
www.grandprewines.ns.ca
Hours 10 am to 6 pm daily (from 11am on Sunday)
Tours at 11 am, 3 pm and 5 pm ($6 tour & tasting)
Le Caveau upscale Swiss-inspired restaurant on site
Just an hour from Halifax, the home of Nova Scotia's first winery was taken over by Swiss banker Hanspeter Stutz in 1993, thankfully with deep pockets. A huge amount of capital has transformed the operation into a definite destination with its restaurant, modern tasting room, etc. Located on the lovely Annapolis Valley, boutique winemaker Jurg Stutz produces terrific New York State Muscat wines that are perfect summer thirst quenchers. Don't miss trying the delicious Stutz cider. The live-music Thursday "Martini night" (July/August) is always a packed.
Quebec
Of all Canadian wine growing regions, Quebec is probably be the most challenging. The short growing and severe winter temperatures mean that vines have to be buried in order to survive. Although just over 20 years old, there are now over three-dozen wineries in La Belle Provence spread over five subregions. The highest concentration is in the beautiful Eastern Townships. Here Domaine des Côtes d'Ardoise in Sutton holds its not-to-be-missed annual exposition of stellar sculptures called Nature et Création featuring 35 works from 15 artists (see www.cotesdardoise.com). There are also some amazing iced ciders being produced in Quebec, especially Cidrerie Michel Jodoin's 2004 Rubis de Glace, which is made with Geneva apples.
Destination Quebec: Vignoble de l'Orpailleur
1086 route 202, Dunham
450-295-2763
www.orpailleur.ca
Hours 9 am to 5 pm daily from April 16 to December 31
Tours at 11:30 am, 1:30, 2:30, 3:30 and 4:30 daily
Restaurant Le Tire-Bouchon
Quebec's largest wine producer, L'Orpailleur was one of the first artisanal wineries to be licensed in 1985. It has a first-class tasting bar and restaurant, along with a most informative wine museum. With some ten wines available, check out the refreshing L'Orpailleur White, as well as their excellent, sweet, 100% Vidal called 2004 Vin de Glace at $28.
Destination Quebec: Vignoble La Bauge
155, rue des Érables, Brigham
450-266-2149
Hours 9:30 am to 6 pm daily
Animal reserve tours available daily ($6 per person/$3 children)
Homemade pates, terrines and cheeses
This fun, rather rustic operation is a great destination for families, many packing a picnic lunch. La Blauge, which means boar's den, features one-hour tours through their extensive holdings of animals, which include everything from wild boar and deer to exotic fowl. It is great for the kids and reservations are advised.
Ontario
Over 100 wineries now operate in Ontario spread over three grape growing regions. The Niagara Peninsula being closest to Toronto followed by the new Prince Edward County and Lake Erie North Shore (including Pelee Island) subregions. Inniskillin, created by Karl Kaiser and Donald Ziraldo in 1975, was the first new winery to open after prohibition. It was acquired by Vincor in 1995, which is now owned by the US-based giant Constellation.
Destination Ontario: Cave Spring Cellars
3836 Main Street, Jordan
905-562-3581
www.cavespring.ca
Hours 10 am to 6 pm, Monday-Thursday; 10 am to 7:30 pm, Friday-Saturday;
11 am to 6 pm, Sundays
Inn on the Twenty Restaurant offers full-service fine dining
Located in what is referred to as the Niagara Beamsville bench, in the charming village of Jordan. Cave Spring was created by Len Pennachetti and winemaker Angelo Pavan in 1986. It offers almost two-dozen wines, including some well-made Rieslings. Make sure you try their outstanding 2003 Chardonnay Reserve at $19.95.
Destination Ontario: Chateau des Charmes
1025 York Road, St. David's
800-263-2541
www.chateaudescharmes.com
Hours 10 am to 6 pm daily
Tastings with tours at 11 am and 3 pm (in French at noon $2)
Selections of artisanal cheeses are available
The winery was created in 1978, while the impressive, Loire-inspired chateau was only opened in 1994. It is located on a bench adjoining the escarpment near Queenston and just under three dozen wines are available at the tasting room. There is a year-round an art exhibit and various concerts during July and August. In addition to the stellar 2002 Riesling Icewine, make sure you try Chateau des Charmes 2004 Riesling Estate at $15.95.
Destination Ontario: Henry of Pelham Family Estate
Winery
1469 Pelham Road, St. Catharines
888-735-4267
www.henryofpelham.com
Hours 10 am to 6 pm daily
Tours at 1:30 pm daily ($5 fee includes two reserve wines & a free
glass)
Coach House Cafe & Cheese Shoppe
One of Ontario's most consistent producers. All three Speck brothers are involved in this ever-growing operation, which produces VQA-only wines made by Ron Giesbrecht. Depending on the day, at least four table selections ($2), two late harvest ($2) and three icewines ($4) will be in the tasting room. Licensed picnic tables are available along with numerous special events. Famous for their Baco Noir, best buys include Henry of Pelham 2005 Rosé at $11.95 and Henry of Pelham 2004 Unfiltered Pinot Noir at $24.95.
British Columbia
BC tips the scale with more than 130 wineries spread over many regions within the Okanagan Valley Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands. It takes credit for producing Canada's best reds and many wineries are worthy of a visit.
Destination British Columbia: CedarCreek Estate
Winery
5445 Lakeshore Road, Kelowna
250-764-8866
www.cedarcreek.bc.ca
Hours 10 am to 6 pm
Tours 11 am, 2 pm, 3 pm daily
Vineyard Terrace on site, open 11:30 am to 3:30 pm daily
CedarCreek consistently makes some of Canada's top wines. It is a scenic 12-kilometre drive south along the lakeshore from Kelowna to the charming Mediterranean styled wineshop. Winemaker Tom DiBello makes fantastic award winning Pinot Noir. The trouble is trying to buy them as they sell out quickly, especially the top tier Platinum Reserve.
Destination British Columbia: Sumac Ridge Estate
Winery
17403 Highway 97, Summerland
250-494-0451
www.sumacridge.com
Hours 9 am to 6 pm daily
Tours hourly, beginning at 10 am daily ($5 per person)
Cellar Door Bistro open daily for lunch and dinner
Harry McWatters founder of Okanagan's oldest estate winery and is currently celebrating his 25th anniversary. A trail blazer, in 1997 McWatters created his classic sparkler called Steller's Jay Brut, named after BC's official bird. He is also credited with creating Canada's first Meritage. Pinnacle represents the top of the line, while the flavourful, reasonably priced Private Reserve Gewurztraminer is North America's largest selling Gewurztraminer.
Destination British Columbia: Venturi-Schulze
Vineyards
4235 Trans Canada Hwy, Cobble Hill, Vancouver Island
250-743-5630
www.venturischulze.com
Tasting and tours by appointment only
Welcome to what might well be Canada's most idiosyncratic winery, which opened in 1993. This tiny, organically-inspired operation produces only a handful of wines, along with some very expensive balsamic-styled vinegar. The faintly spitzy, fragrant, spicy, floral and yet surprisingly crisp, Millefiori (a blend of Ortega and Siegerrube) complete with its pop-bottle crown cap, fetches $23.10.
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