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Spotlight on Ontario
And the winner is:
Chateau des Charmes 2004 Late Harvest Riesling

© Michael Vaughan 2006
National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
Saturday, September 16, 2006

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Today's Vintages release sees 106 items hit the shelves, excluding 14 in-store discoveries (ISDs). The focus of this release is Ontario VQA wines. The first 20 pages of the 44-page catalogue feature 34 Ontario wines, of which over one third (13) are icewines. In fact, it's all a bit deceptive because 14 of the 34 listings are actually Vintages Essentials, which are permanently featured and can be bought at any time. That leaves a mere 20 new items plus one untasted white ISD. To gain access to the catalogue, all wineries had to agree to buy into the LCBO 5 bonus AIR MILES rewards program.

Top Ontario Whites

Kicking things off, of four Chardonnays presented, the best is the flavourful Strewn 2004 Terroir Chardonnay (12773) at $19.95. It has a spicy, intense, cedary, key lime pie nose and dry, medium-full bodied, well structured, cedar driven, lemon meringue flavours with a lingering, very bright finish. Cave Spring 2003 Chardonnay Reserve (256552), also at $19.95, is a very close second.

Fans of hot spicy cuisine will get a kick out of Reif Estate 2004 Gewurztraminer (127985) at $14.95. Look for dry, well balanced, medium-light bodied, very slightly honeyed, fairly spicy, ripe pear-apple-lychee flavours with a crisp refreshing finish.

Sweeties

While one would have hoped that some knockout Rieslings would appear, that didn't happen. The two presented were ok, but not worthy of a detour. That wasn't the case with the sweeties. My release highlight is Chateau des Charmes 2004 Late Harvest Riesling (432930). At only $17.95 per half bottle ($1.36 an ounce), it is a not only a best buy, but to my taste it is superior to some icewines costing more than twice the price. What to look for? A lovely, gently honeyed, sweet, Seville orange marmalade nose with ripe melon notes. On the palate, it is rich and sweet but perfectly balanced with vibrant, intense, orange citrus acidity and lingering melon and intense Seville orange marmalade flavours. It is not only delicious, but here is a sweetie that will easily last a decade.

On the downside, only 741 cases were produced - so move quickly. To qualify as a VQA Late Harvest the grapes need only have at least 22 brix (or 22% sugar). The Bosc family, however, always picks at much higher levels - this 2004 has 29 brix, which is almost in the "Special Select" category and not all that far from the icewine minimum of 32 brix!

Of the13 icewines presented, National Post readers can see my scores for the 2004s on my website. It is worth keeping in mind that Riesling icewines performed very well in that year. Pillitteri 2004 Riesling Icewine (435727) at $29.95 per 200 ml bottle ($4.28 an ounce) would, for instance, be a fine buy. It is very sweet and fairly viscous with rather spicy, caramelized baked apple flavours with some lingering tropical notes. There is no question that icewine costs a lot more to produce. Pillitterri has 21% residual sugar vs. the Late Harvest Riesling, which at 12% is still very sweet. Of the group presented, my top icewine has 24% residual sugar! At $54.95 per half bottle, Henry of Pelham 2004 Riesling Icewine (430561) costs $4.16 an ounce. All would be great served chilled with Quebec foie gras or as an after-dinner sipper.

Top Ontario Wines - Reds

Getting down to the reds, the best is Lakeview Cellars 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (12617), which is priced at only $19.95 (vs. an anticipated $29.95). It is dry, well structured and harmonious with spicy, ripe, plummy-cherry flavours and a lingering finish. The overall selection is a bit mixed. I am sad to report that you should avoid the earthy, unpleasant, bitter tasting Peninsula Ridge 2004 Beal Vineyard Cabernet Franc (5454) at $18.95. How this "beaming with delight" Vintages Discovery got a full page in the catalogue is beyond me. News Flash: I was informed on Friday, September 15 that Peninsula Ridge has been removed from the release.

A Trio of Inexpensive Whites

From Italy there are two reasonably priced whites that offer easy drinkability. The least expensive at $9.95 is Lungarotti 2004 Torre di Giano (49205), which is a blend of Trebbiano and Grechetto with dry, light bodied, bright, ripe lemon-melon flavours with a crisp, light finish. Note that this is a repeat of the June 10, 2006 release.

For $2 more, however, Calatrasi 2004 Accademia del Sole Viognier (687921) offers more flavour and a bit more satisfaction. This $11.95 IGT from Sicily has very dry, harmonious, fairly elegant, light apple-pear-peach flavours with a crisp finish.

Add one dollar and you can get a decent white from Chile's Casablanca Valley. Vina Morandé 2005 Terrarum Sauvignon Blanc (686105) at $12.95. It has dry, very lively, medium-light bodied, pleasing, ripe melon-lemon-grapefruit flavours with a crisp finish.

A Delightful Duo of Reds

If you like Pinot Noir, here is one from New Zealand's South Island Marlborough region that hits the spot. Made in a new world style, Babich 2004 Pinot Noir (216) at $19.95 is medium-light bodied and loaded with spicy, juicy, ready-to-enjoy, faintly smoky, cherry-grapefruit flavours. This drink-now style is a definite crowd pleaser.

My best buy red highlight comes from the Rhone's Costières de Nîmes region. It is well structured and is definitely a bargain at $17.95. Mas Des Bressades Cuvée Excellence (708750) is 100% Syrah and has deliciously juicy, ripe plum and cherry flavours with a crisp, lively finish.

Pick of the Week - Sparkling Value

It's always a thrill to uncover a tasty sparkling wine at a great price. Bailly-Lapierre Crémant de Bourgogne Réserve (991562) at $17.95 offers lots of flavour. This blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Aligoté hails from the Burgundy region of France. Made in the Champagne method, it is very effervescent and dry with attractive, ripe lemon-melon flavours with a crisp finish. Drink it soon while it is fresh and fruity.


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2001-2002-2003-2004-2005-2006 Tasting Note Database
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** For All Visitors **
Vintages Releases
To see the complete list of upcoming products from the
September 16 release, including In-Store Discovery items,
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To see the complete list of upcoming products from the
September 30 release, including In-Store Discovery items,
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To see the complete list of upcoming products from the
October 14 release, including In-Store Discovery items,
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To see the complete list of upcoming products from the
October 28 release, including In-Store Discovery items,
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Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2006
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Contact Michael Vaughan at
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