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A Hole-in-One Twice for Greg Norman
Wedding Bell Bubblies
© Michael Vaughan 2006
National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
Saturday, April 29, 2006

LIVE WINE LINK
www.winefind.ca
(CLICK ON THE NAME - All listings are automatically linked to the LCBO database)
If there is a product that interests you, just click on the name below and you will instantaneously connected with the LCBO database. The product will appear in blue and all you have to do is click on the name again and then the next screen will provide details along with the store search. Just click on store search. The number of bottles in each store is updated nightly. Call the store first to see if stock still remains (each store phone number is listed).

Today marks one of those rare months with three Vintages releases. The focus of this release is Australia, which for some represents the center of the wine universe featuring wines with an abundance of ripe, juicy, fruity flavours. There is no question that the diversity of styles from its 60+ regions means that there is something for everyone.

Hitting the shelves are some 43 reds and 11 whites. Of the whites, if I had to choose one, it would have to be Pipers Brook Vineyards Ninth Island 2005 Pinot Grigio (683193) at $19.95, which was my highest scoring white (click on the name to check out which LCBO stores have this wine in stock). Coming from the cooler southern Tasmania region, it has an attractive, gently honeyed, floral nose. Take a sip and the bright, well-structured, harmonious, lemony, ripe melon flavours will seduce. It is all followed up an elegant, crisp, lingering, oak-free, pear-tinged finish. Coming in a convenient screwcap closure, it would be a perfect match with fresh seafood dishes.

Of the 42 Australian reds being featured today, the number one choice is the rich, smoky, gold medal winning Vintages Essential Greg Norman 2003 Limestone Coast Shiraz (575092), which dollar for dollar is my highest scoring red at only $23.95. This very deep intense purple coloured 2003 is even better than the previous 2002 release. Look for a lovely, complex, rather smoky, key lime pie nose. On the palate it is extracty and mouthfilling with rich but balanced, spicy, ripe plum and smoky, lingering, sun dried tomato flavours.

It terms of value, the only red to give the Shiraz a run for the money was its Vintages Essential companion Greg Norman 2003 Limestone Coast Cabernet/Merlot (552075) also at $23.95. The nose shows lively, gently spicy, juicy ripe plum, lime purée and chocolate. The thrust of flavours shift to very slightly earthy, smoke-tinged, well structured, gently juicy, plummy, ripe cherry and lime purée flavours this time with a lingering, chocolate tinged finish. Rack up another hole in one for Greg Norman!

Those searching for something less expensive will not be disappointed by the juicy Long Flat 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon (682021) at only $15.95. It hails from the Coonawarra region of South Australia. The aromatic focus here is spicy, ripe plum and cherry fruit with hints of vanilla stick, all of which carry over perfectly to the palate. These juicy flavours persist on the bright finish giving it excellent versatility - a perfect, crowd-pleasing, red for drinking today.

The quest for well-priced, decent Pinot Noir flavours it always problematic. Let me suggest you try the now mature Nepenthe 2003 Charleston Pinot Noir (682054) at $17.95 from the Adelaide Hills. You can tell that this is no longer a teenager by the slight hint of amber edging the deep red colour when looking at it in the glass. There is good fruit on the nose - plum, blueberry and dried cherries. It is still bright with reasonably good structure and crispness. The spicy, dried red cherry flavours are true to form in this ready to enjoy crowd pleaser.

Moving on, I would be remiss if I didn't mention a terrific white from Ontario, Angels Gate 2004 Single Vineyard Gewurztraminer (678409) at $18.95, a fine VQA effort from the Beamsville Bench. Light straw in colour, the intense, spicy, sweetish, honeyed, lychee fruit leap from the glass. It is surprising dry, well structured and refreshing on the palate with harmonious, honeyed, ripe lemon-melon-lychee flavours and a fine lingering finish. It would be perfect with hot, spicy Thai or Indian cuisine.

Talking about Indian cuisine, there are two new wines from Sula Vineyards in India - a very dry, somewhat herbal 2005 Sauvignon Blanc and a smoky, red pepper driven 2005 Shiraz - both making their debut at $13.95. I am sad to report that at the price, neither is worth a detour as much better drinking value is readily available.

Finally, with the wedding season fast approaching, here are some reasonably priced celebratory bubblies. The first is an elegantly packaged, reliable, Brut-Champagne-styled effort from the Penedes region of Spain called Codorniu Reserva Raventos Cava Brut (521773) at only $15.95. This judicious blend of Chardonnay-Macabeo-Xarel-lo has a light straw colour and fine, fairly complex, ripe lemon nose. Its bright, the tangy, ripe, lemon-melon flavours show lots of lively effervescence - a great buy for those who enjoy the real thing!

Of course, if you are not keen on an extremely dry style, there is a charming entry from Alsace, which is but a stone's throw from Champagne. From the house of Dopff au Moulin, a pioneer of Alsace sparklers made in the classic méthode champenoise, comes Crémant d'Alsace Cuvée Julien Brut (641365) at $16.95. This blend of Pinot Blanc and Auxerrois has a gently honeyed, ripe apricot nose. While dry on the palate with tangy, ripe lemon-citrus-melon flavours, it is followed up by a lingering, effervescent, very faintly sweetish finish - very easy to drink.

The Appellation Crémant d'Alsace Contrôlée is an Alsace wine made according to a traditional method, following rigorous legislation. Produced from varieties of Pinot, Dopff au Moulin is not to be confused with the also well-known Dopff & Irion.
NV "Cuvée Julien" Brut 
Vintage "Blanc de Noirs" Brut (White Crémant Blanc issued from Pinot Noir) 
Vintage "Wild Brut" (non dosé) 
NV "Rosé" Brut 
Vintage "Cuvée Bartholdi" Brut 
Vintage "Chardonnay" Brut 
Vintage DOPFF "Cuvée Pierre Dopff" Brut

Although not vintage-dated, it is better than the last batch, which previously went for $18.95. Out of 100+ producers of Alsatian Crémant rated in the revised edition of the World Encyclopedia of Champagne & Sparkling Wine, Dopff au Moulin with an astonishing seven different Crémants, received the author Tom Stevenson's highest rating along with three other producers. Salut!

National Post readers wishing to receive the current April 2006 Vintage Assessments newsletter (covering the Vintages releases for today & for the April 1st and 29th releases - including exclusive current ISD reviews) as well as the April 29th Vintages Shopping List can have it e-mailed today and receive a $20 discount - click here.

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** For All Visitors ** Vintages Releases To see the complete list of upcoming products from the April 29 release, including In-Store Discovery items, click here (sorted by date of release). You can also see it sorted by agent click here To see the complete list of upcoming products from the May 13 release, including In-Store Discovery items, click here (sorted by date of release). You can also see it sorted by agent click here To see the complete list of upcoming products from the May 27 release, including In-Store Discovery items, click here (sorted by date of release). You can also see it sorted by agent click here

Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2006
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Contact Michael Vaughan at
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