Michael Vaughan's Weekly National Post Feature

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www.winefind.ca
(CLICK ON THE NAME - All listings are automatically linked to the LCBO database)
If there is a product that interests you, just click on the name below and you will instantaneously connected with the LCBO database. The product will appear in blue and all you have to do is click on the name again and then the next screen will provide details along with the store search. Just click on store search. The number of bottles in each store is updated nightly. Call the store first to see if stock still remains (each store phone number is listed).

It is scary to think that for the past 16 years I have spent up to three Fridays a month (and most Tuesdays) in the LBCO third floor lab tasting tens of thousands of wines and spirits. It started when the Vintages agreed to give winewriters access to preview their portfolio of monthly releases. This win-win situation has resulted in a steady flow of weekly articles highlighting their now bi-weekly best buys. This visibility has helped Vintages grow into one of the most powerful buying forces in the world. It has also helped make our local wine writing community one of the most knowledgeable anywhere.

In the same year, 1990, I decided to share my tasting notes with like-minded individuals and created Vintage Assessments, a monthly journal dedicated to reviewing everything tasted in Vintages. Four million words later, I still single-handedly taste every wine and write every tasting note.

My National Post mandate is to enlighten readers by shining the spotlight on items that are worth buying. It isn't always easy, because in an ever-expanding vinous universe we are overwhelmed by choice. Obviously, tastes change. When I started at the Financial Post in 1972, French wines were the undisputed world leaders in terms of quality and quantity. Today's wines are much better than ever before. There are also a much wider variety of styles, varying from law-away classics to those, which are juicy, consumer-friendly and ready-to-drink. Many recommendations focus on the latter because many readers are looking for something to enjoy tonight.

Meanwhile, some readers have written that many LCBO items go unreviewed without a stitch of fanfare. The first reason is that they may be mediocre and don't deserve to be in the spotlight. Of course, even if they are worthy, not everything makes it to the short list of best buys due to the limited review space.

To address this last point, I would like to add the following wines to my list of best buy March Vintages releases, all of which are still available. From France, fans should make a beeline for this best buy white Burgundy Château de Marsannay Blanc 2003 (681379) at $26.95. This classic has a ripe lemon- pear nose and smooth, caramel-tinged, ripe pear purée flavours. At its peak of drinkability, it can last another two years.

Another less expensive Chard worth considering comes from Australia is Goundrey 2003 Reserve Selection Chardonnay (606889) at $19.95 a la screwcap. This is a more mature style with a slightly sweetish, honeyed, pear puree nose. On the palate it is thankfully dry with juicy, ripe pear flavours and a vanilla finish.

For bargain hunters, Bollini 2004 Chardonnay Barricato 40 (987503) at $13.95 can't be beat. Coming from Italy's Trentino region, it is a bit lighter that the previous two Chards. On the palate it is dry and yet rounded with attractive, ripe, melon-pear flavours and a caramel-tinged finish.

Moving on, I can count the number of fantastic, inexpensive, Italian Sauvignon Blanc tasted on the fingers of one hand. So be sure to check out the ready-to-drink 2004 Bidoli Sauvignon (670828) at only $11.95 from the Grave region. This flavourful, well-structured effort has delicious, ripe pear and melon fruit flavours followed up by a fine, refreshing, lemon-tinged finish.

Another Italian hitting the mark from Veneto is Bertani 2004 Due Uve Pinot Grigio/Sauvignon (746511) also at $11.95. This 50-50 blend is lighter bodied and very crisp with bright, ripe, lemon-melon flavours. A terrific match for seafood.

Those searching for an intense, grassy, New Zealand style should try the terrific Clifford Bay 2005 Sauvignon Blanc (734095) at $18.95 from the South Island's Marlborough region. Look for lovely, gently honeyed, ripe lemon-melon-grapefruit flavours with hints of rhubarb, along with a refined, lingering, crisp, grassy finish.

In terms of reds, a really great buy is Yalumba 2003 Shiraz/Viognier (524926) at $19.95, which comes from South Australia's Barossa region. Made from 30 to 50-year-old Shiraz with a splash (5%) of Viognier, the seductive nose oozes gently cedary, spicy, ripe black cherry fruit. Its dry, extracty, plumy, juicy ripe black cherry flavours lingering on the tongue.

Today's last recommendation is a Vintages "in store discovery" or ISD. Up until recently, I would have had an opportunity to sample it at one of the consultant's tastings. Sadly, winewriters are no longer permitted to taste these wines. As incredible as it seems, freshly-opened bottles are removed from the tasting room and poured down the sink.

Vintages claims that written visibility could create dissatisfied customers because things might sell too quickly. Not so! Even when recommended, ISDs take time to disappear because they are squirreled away in just 25 LCBO stores out of 600 in total. By forbidding winewriters from tasting, everyone suffers - importers, producers, consumers, even the LCBO in terms of turnover and profits.

Today's ISD highlight is Henriques 10 Year Old Verdelho Madeira (674168) at $39.95. Thanks to the importer, I was able to try it at an excellent comparative portfolio tasting at the University Club. It has a truly wonderful, complex, sweet, nutty, caramel nose. Much drier on the palate, the refined, rich, spicy, complex, plum-raisin-caramel flavours go on forever.

Vintages ordered a meager 10 cases; but as of last Wednesday more than 7 cases were still languishing on the shelves. Considering that many Vintages Henriques Madeira selections have been recommended best buys, one wonders: Why did it take two years to get 10-Year-Old Henriques back? Why was it released in mid-March, as opposed to December when it was needed? Why was the order so small? And why as an untasted ISD?

For this and other best buys, National Post readers are invited to see the current March newsletter on my website by using the "npreader" password. To see click here.

2001-2002-2003-2004-2005 Tasting Note Database
Our tasting note database from December 31, 2000 to January 2006, covers every Vintages release product for the past 61 months. There are more than 12,000 notes in the database data. Just enter the name of the product, supplier name or CSPC number. Or you can search by type of wine, country of origin, even wine agent! Nothing could be easier. Also you can get information on the agent by clicking on the agent’s name, as well as current LCBO store inventory by clicking on "Check LCBO Availability", which will automatically tell you the number of bottles at LCBO as of last night.

To use our Tasting Notes Database: click here

** For All Visitors **
Vintages Releases
To see the complete list of upcoming products from the
April 1 release, including In-Store Discovery items,
click here (sorted by date of release).
You can also see it sorted by agent click here
To see the complete list of upcoming products from the
April 15 release, including In-Store Discovery items,
click here (sorted by date of release).
You can also see it sorted by agent click here
To see the complete list of upcoming products from the
April 29 release, including In-Store Discovery items,
click here (sorted by date of release).
You can also see it sorted by agent click here

Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2006
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
(electronic or other wise) and or quotation.
Contact Michael Vaughan at
mbv@total.net