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New Releases for Discerning Palates LIVE
WINE LINK Today's Vintages release featuring 102 items has some great choices for discerning palates. Hot off the mark is a delicious rosé sparkler made in the classic Champagne method. Taltarni 2003 Brut Taché (967398) at $21.95 is produced from grapes grown in Australia's cooler Victoria Pyrenees and Tasmania's Pipers River regions. Despite its slightly elevated alcohol (13%), it is surprisingly refined and yet flavourful. The bouquet drips with ripe plum and strawberry fruit. On the palate it is dry but not austere with ripe plum flavours and excellent mouth-tingling effervescence. Taché is a French word meaning 'stained' and refers to Taltarni's unusual winemaking technique, which was adopted in 1985. The delicate salmon pink colour is achieved by adding a dash of red wine liqueur (referred to as the dosage) when the bottle is having its frozen sediment removed (a process called disgorgement). This classic blend of 52% Pinot Noir, 42% Chardonnay and 6% Pinot Meunier is aged on lees for a minimum of 18 months. This versatile crowd-pleaser is certain to work any time, any place. If you are looking for something sweet, fizzy and fruity for Sunday brunch, don't miss snapping up a couple of bottles of Villa Giada 2005 'Andrea Faccio' Moscato d'Asti (699900) at $14.95. Thankfully it only has 5% alcohol, because you will not be able to resist its sweet, spicy, juicy, Muscat, honeyed grapefruit flavours. Moving on to whites, I have a couple of best buys that are guaranteed to bring down the house. The first a great thirst-quencher from Portugal's Dao region. You don't have to be nervous about Duque de Viseu 2004 Branco (980227) from Portugal's giant Sogrape because it costs a mere $11.95. This blend of indigenous Bical and Encruzda grapes has lively pleasant aromas and ripe, lemon-melon flavours with a zesty, oak-free, finish. Great for appetizers, soups, salads and seafood, it is perfect for casual summer drinking. If you think that Portuguese whites lack oomph, guess again. From Real Companhia Velha comes a remarkable white that is loaded with flavour and complexity at only $15.95 - terrific value and definite best buy in today's Vintages release. Porca de Murca 2004 Reserva Branco (684761) has an intense, ripe yellow grapefruit nose with hints of cedar. It sings on the palate: complex, well-structured, smoke-tinged, lemony melon and Anjou pear flavours with a lovely lingering finish. This ready to enjoy white would be perfect with grilled chicken. Porca de Murca originates in Portugal's Douro region whose claim to fame, at least up until recently, has been Port. This unique blend of traditional varieties - Boal and Gouveio along with some touches of floral Moscatel (the latter two grapes being fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel) - sees the Boal grapes partially-fermented and aged in new Portuguese oak with 6 months of lees contact. While high in alcohol (just over 14%), the high acidity and fine structure from low yields provides perfect balance. You must move quickly because only 200 cases of 6 are available. Moving on to the ever-popular Chardonnay, here are three best buys. The first from the French Midi comes with a convenient, taint-free, screwcap closure. The ever-successful team of Jacques & François Lurton present Les Salices 2004 Chardonnay (734541) at $12.95, which designated as a Vin de Pays d'Oc. Ready to drink and medium-light bodied, the bright, ripe lemon-melon flavours come with a crisp, refreshing finish, it goes with almost anything! Moving up a notch is a very fine effort from South Africa's Stellenbosch region. Amani 2003 Chardonnay (687442) at $19.95. Fermented and aged for ten months in French oak, it offers much greater complexity. The nose shows stewed lemon and fresh brioche notes, while its toasty, ripe lemon flavours linger on the palate. Pick of the Week If you like your Chardonnay with lots of structure, don't miss one of the best values to pass these lips this year. Don't be fooled by the casual screwcap closure. This small Margaret River winery in Western Australia produces a modest 10,000 casers annually. Complex and intense, Ashbrook 2003 Chardonnay (684076) is truly remarkable at only $21.95. It has a wonderful, toasty, lime-driven nose. On the palate, it is extracty with gripping key lime pie flavours with a lingering Anjou pear finish. As half of the wine was fermented and aged for 6 months in new French oak, the toasty notes will overwhelm most seafood dishes. Try it with poultry or even a rack of lamb. Moving on to reds, the two best buys of the release come from the New World. The first comes from Argentina's Mendoza region and is thankfully free of any greenish, herbal notes that characterize many wines made from classic Bordeaux varieties. Famiglia Bianchi 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon (677567) at $16.95 is spicy, rich and well structured with plummy, dark chocolate flavours that go on and on. Although it has a whopping 15% alcohol, the integration and depth are such that you can't taste it! Perfect with a bbq rare rib steak! My red release favourite, especially with bbq ribs, would be Backsberg 2003 Pumphouse Shiraz (652651) at $19.95, which comes from South Africa's Paarl region and weighs in with a hefty 14.5%. Look for slightly smoky, cedary, juicy, ripe black cherry flavours with a vanilla stick finish. Now some may think that these alcohol levels are too high. Such sentiments miss the mark because to ensure ripe flavours, it is often necessary to let the grapes fully ripen to levels where high alcohol is inevitable. The real question is whether the wine is balanced and delicious, not simply the aspect of high alcohol. Take away the natural ripeness and accompanying high alcohol and you are likely to end up with just another insipid, tasteless, wine. National Post readers wishing to receive the current June 2006 Vintage Assessments newsletter (covering the Vintages releases for today & for the June 24th release - including exclusive current ISD reviews) as well as the June 24th Vintages Shopping List can have it e-mailed today and receive a $20 discount - click here. 2001-2002-2003-2004-2005-2006
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