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'Winemaker of the year' shows off his wares
© Michael Vaughan 2000
National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
National Post ~ Saturday, September 23, 2000

The flood of fall trade tastings can be challenging because of the enormous number of wines being presented often under crowded conditions. A nice change of pace takes place tomorrow – Southbrook’s “Sunday afternoon in the country” complete with complementary barbecue. Air Ontario’s “Winemaker of the Year” Derek Barnett has an interesting portfolio of some very decent varietals. To my taste, however, their best products are their sumptuous dessert wines, especially the stunningly delicious Framboise $14.95 for a 375 ml bottle (the General List CSPC 341024) - certainly worthy of Toronto’s top wine lists. Open to bona fide sommeliers and restaurateurs, you can RSVP today by calling 905-832-2548.

Vincor, Canada’s largest wine conglomerate, has launched a new take on Ontario wines. On the eve of this year’s 49th annual Niagara Grape & Wine Festival (running September 22 to October 1), I received two of five newly released Ontario VQA wines. At first I thought they were from a new winery because only producer listed on the label is Ancient Coast Wines.

Certainly the ultra sophisticated Ancient Coast packaging, great label and low price is a marketing coup for Vincor. It unnerves me, however, that some unsuspecting buyers may think that this is a wine from one of the “new” Ontario wineries. However decent the Ancient Coast line is, it has nothing to do with the new wave of small Ontario wineries that are struggling to introduce their recently-bottled wares to the public. More to come on Ontario’s new wineries in future columns.

Another concern is marketing reference to Ancient Coast as being a “Niagara Escarpment” wine at a time when many key Ontario producers, such as Cave Spring and Henry of Pelham, are struggling to establish a Niagara “bench” appellation contrôlée to distinguish grapes grown in a specifically designated section of the escarpment. In fact, the Ancient Coast grapes come from the peninsula and are correctly documented on the label. As for the “coastal” connection, well this word is hot, hot, hot (à la Robert Mondavi, Callaway, etc.)!

Getting down to brass tacks, how was the 1998 Ancient Coast Vidal ($7.45)? Well not bad at all! It’s just slightly off dry and surprisingly smooth with a touch of honey and floral, citrusy, ripe apricot-melon flavours. Vidal is a French hybrid cross between Ugni Blanc and Seyval Blanc that is often used in icewine. The flavours are strikingly Germanic and it would be perfect for your Thanksgiving turkey. In terms of whites on the LCBO General List it scores a “best buy” in terms of price, versatility and drinkability. Keep in mind that this is not a wine for aging or breathing. It’s best when coming cool and fresh out of the bottle.

Moving on to the 1998 Ancient Coast Cabernet Franc ($9.95) - the nose has pleasant, spicy, baked plum and red apple notes. On the palate it’s very dry and medium bodied without much complexity but still ok with slightly tart, fruity, cherry plum flavours that I find reminiscent of Valpolicella! While the “depth and body” referred to in the promotional tasting notes are somewhat elusive, it would do justice to a tangy slice of pizza. 

As for the other three Ancient Coast wines, I can’t comment, as they haven’t been assessed. But if a well-priced VQA Cabernet Franc is on your agenda, be sure not to miss the Toronto Wine & Cheese Show’s gold medal winning 1998 Stoney Ridge Bench Cabernet Franc ($11.95). Aged in oak for eight months, its rich, plummy, raspberry purée flavours will “wow” your palate. The last remaining cases of this “best buy” still bless the LCBO’s general list shelves (CSPC 525691).

Moving back to the Vintages September 9th release, it’s patently impossible to cover all the recommended products in a single wine column. Fortunately, significant quantities of some of my other recommendations still reside within the Vintages system. Here are three not to be missed wines from California’s Sonoma Valley. First we have 1998 Geyser Peak Chardonnay ($19.95) with its delicious, fairly rich, dry but rounded, ripe, melon-lemon-lime flavours and creamy, vanilla-tinged, lingering, pear cobbler finish.  This “release best buy” is at its peak and is perfect with white meats.

Another somewhat richer Sonoma Chardonnay worthy of a detour is E. & J. Gallo 1997 Stefani Vineyards Dry Creek Valley ($27.95). The creamy, rather cedary, sweetish, apricot-pear flavours would go well with your upcoming Thanksgiving turkey. Only 83 cases of this “Selected Distribution” item are at the LCBO so you will have to call the info line (1-800-668-5226) to find the store nearest to you carrying this item. 

Another absolutely delicious white, this time from Sonoma’s Russian River Valley is 1998 Chateau St. Jean Fumé Blanc La Petite Etoile Vineyards at $24.95. Made from Sauvignon Blanc, which was barrel fermented and aged 10 months in French oak, it is the antithesis of the New Zealand style. This rich, very intense, mouthfilling blockbuster has rather spicy, creamy, baked Anjou pear flavours along with a persistent toasty finish. It would be great with a rack of lamb. Much to my surprise, I discovered that my recorked remnant bottle opened two weeks ago still yielded a fresh, vibrant, delicious wine!

When it comes to Sonoma reds, don’t bother looking for the Alexander Valley Vineyards 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon Wetzel Family Estate ($27.95 /$14.50 375 ml) because the Vintages has withdrawn it from sale! Unfortunately, all three bottles tasted had a huge amount of balsamic on the nose and acetic raspberry vinaigrette flavours.

One not to be missed, however, is the deliciously bright, smoky 1998 Sebastiani Old Vines Sonoma Cask which is very well priced at $17.90. You will be impressed with its rounded, spicy, smoky, black cherry, blueberry pie flavours. The lingering vanilla finish has some fine refreshing lemon zest notes. Mark October 23rd for the upcoming Sonoma Tour featuring 25 wineries at Toronto’s Arcadian Court – for info call 1-800-558-2675.

Cheerful is the best way of describing the tasty, versatile California blend Delicato 1998 Syrah ($12.50) with its well-balanced, faintly smoky, ripe black cherry flavours. It’s another red that you might consider complementing your turkey. 

Finally, a plea on behalf of LCBO wine consultants, the unsung heroes who interface with the public. It seems that they have lost one of their Vintages preview tasting sessions and now find that upwards of 140 products being jammed into a single tasting session. As a professional, I can tell you that this is an insurmountable task, especially for the new consultants. The elimination of this valuable morning tasting session is most unfortunate.

Upcoming this week in Toronto on Wednesday, September 27th is a special Chilean Viña Casa Silva wine tasting dinner under the auspices of master sommelier Héctor Vergara at the Crowne Plaza’s Accolade restaurant at 7 pm. This special six-course food and wine event costs $100 per person (plus taxes and gratuities including complimentary valet parking) - call (416) 597-8142. On the same night at 7 pm ($95) we have Inniskillin’s 25th Anniversary wine dinner at Truffles in the Four Seasons Hotel featuring the one and only Donald Ziraldo. To reserve call (416) 928-7331. Unfortunately, it seems difficult to track down the right person at either venue who knows what’s happening. Hopefully, the hotels in question can address this existing shortcoming.