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Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist - Michael Vaughan

Summer potpourri

(Publishing Date: Saturday July 29, 2000  - Toronto Section)  

I am scrounging around trying to come up with inexpensive good summer whites to titillate the palate and not break the pocketbook Riesling makes one heck of thirst quencher, especially when slightly chilled. Here at home we have several reliable Ontario producers that consistently come up with the goods -  i.e. Cave Spring Cellars 1999 Off Dry Riesling ($10.95) to name just one.

It’s sad that Germany, the original home of the world’s finest Rieslings, still tends to be somewhat hit and miss when it comes to LCBO selections. Complicated labeling tends to compound problems for purchasers.

This was a hurdle that was overcome by Peter Sichel many years ago with his Blue Nun line of wines. Just recently, I was served an ice-cold glass of the newly listed 1999 Lark Rise Riesling, a qualitätswein from the Pfalz that sells for $9.95 a bottle. It was, as they say, "refreshing to a t" (as in a slightly tart iced tea or perhaps lemonade) with hardly any trace of residual sweetness. Indeed, the light-bodied, crisp, zesty, orange-lemon citrus flavours would take the steaminess out of the sultriest of summer days. The tiny, rustic-looking corks, however, suggest that this is a wine for drinking today, not laying away.

In perhaps a similar vein, this time from northern Portugal’s, comes one of my favourite summer tipples - Vinho Verde. According to my friend Bill Munnelly, publisher of Billy’s Best Bottles, Sogrape ‘Gazela’ Vinho Verde is "bone dry and loaded with about 10,000 volts of refreshment." Better yet it’s low in alcohol, inexpensive (a mere $7.95) and widely available on the LCBO general list. Personally, I can’t think of a better way of kick starting a casual summer outing with this crisp white’s wink of fizz.

Moving on, it’s surprising to discover that our very own Classics Catalogue harbors some terrific values. Many incorrectly believe that many of the Classics selections are either unreasonably expensive or impossible to obtain. And yet within easy grasp are two excellent Chardonnays from Mâcon that are well worth a detour. Don’t miss the simply delicious, pear purée flavours of the scintillating 1998 Mâcon-Viré Domaine de Roally. At $23 it’s a terrific buy.

Ironically, when the Catalogue came out sales were restricted to six bottles (the ominous * "limited availability" symbol) ensure an equitable distribution of this little gem. Well low and behold, almost two months later there are still some 444 bottles remaining. Ditto for its tasty, almost as delicious companion piece - 1998 Macon Montbellet Domaine de Roally also priced at $23.

Some wine snobs are hesitant to order because they haven’t heard about this house, possibly because it hasn’t yet been rated by the American experts! In addition, because you can almost buy genuine Burgundy at this price, these misguided souls don’t think that they should waste time with a "simple" Macon. In reality, this Macon Viré is as significant a wine as Cloudy Bay’s Sauvignon Blanc. Once you taste it, you’ll understand why!

Restaurateurs are also often reluctant to order these wines because of the dreaded quantity limitations. Well the good news is that these limitations were removed on June 5th meaning now you can buy whatever you want - so there aren’t any excuses.

Key to sales, however, is getting these wines out of the warehouse and in front of the consumer where they can be seen and even tasted. Hopefully many of these Classics wines will soon appear on the shelves of selected stores where greater accessibility will be translated into easier access and higher sales!

As for summer reds, I was pleased to see that the new shipment of Guigal 1997 Côtes du Rhone ($14.60) has finally arrived. It’s very slightly smoky, ripe plum flavours are a perfect foil for barbecue meats.

Also on the LCBO general list is the not-to-be-missed Toronto Wine & Cheese Show gold award winner Stoney Ridge 1998 Bench Cabernet Franc ($11.95) with its remarkable, slightly spicy, creamy, warmed plum and raspberry purée flavours. It’s great with almost anything - even by itself!

Moving up a notch, the extracty 1997 Chateau Calisanne Cuvée Prestige from Provence. At only $19 it’s perfect with a choice rib steak. The extracty, mouthfilling dried plum flavours, although drinkable now, will evolve beautifully with another year or so of aging. Again, you’ll have to call the Classics at 1-800-266-4764 for your order.

Last but not least is a real Syrah-driven Rhone sleeper, again from the Classics - Guy et Frédéric Bernard 1997 Côte Rotie ($49). Here is a stunning fragrant, beautifully structured, gently smoky, ripe black cherry and plum purée flavoured red that will knock your sock off. So why is it still in stock? Because Robert Parker in his most recent 1703 page opus Wine Buyer’s Guide only gives this producer a "good" rating (as opposed to excellent or outstanding) and awards a lowly 86 points to the only wine listed, the 1995. Well let me tell you that it’s time to liberate yourself because if this isn’t one of the tastiest Côte Rotie you’ve had; I’ll eat my hat!