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Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist - Michael Vaughan

Happy hunting
Trying to bag Vintages best

(Publishing Date: Saturday December 2, 2000  - Toronto Section)  

It’s V-Day; Vintages release day – time to track down that vinous treasure. What most readers don’t know is that in addition to today’s 171 new listings, there are more than a thousand pre-existing items still remaining on Vintages shelves.

Trouble is, there’s no list of what’s in stock. At least up until now. Starting today my website gives you the monthly scoop on all remaining Vintages stock in the warehouse. As of last month, for instance, that translated into 917 additional products! Better yet, you’ll find the release date enabling you to check out previous reviews - plus it’s all for free. Click here to download  the inventory list.

Did you know, for instance, that in addition to today’s four new Ports, there are 37 more Ports languishing at Vintages! And this figure doesn’t even include those last bottles of different brands still residing in just a few stores.

And what a shame, as many gems have been simply forgotten about. It’s astonishing, for instance, that 204 bottles of delicious Tuke Holdsworth 1994 Vintage Port still remain at a reasonable $42.35 a bottle. Considering that 1994 was one of the best vintages of the century, I can only guess that it didn’t get the exposure it deserved when released almost two years ago - January 16, 1999. To find out which store has stock call the Infoline at 1-800-668-5226.

Moving on, last week I unearthed the crème de la crème reds. Well almost anyway, because here’s a few more to add to your hunting list. First of all, there’s the “wine of the month” - the dark, purple coloured Bertani 1997 Catullo Rosso very reasonably priced at $14.60. This robust blend of Corvina and Cabernet Sauvignon comes from the Valpolicella region and has been aged for two years in oak. It’s full flavoured with slightly cedary, lively, plummy-cassis fruit. It sports that slightly taut, dryish tonality that typifies wines from this region. It will be better in two years time, but can certainly popped today for instant relief, especially with venison.

There are several excellent choices for those looking ahead to marry that plump Christmas turkey with a fruity red. From Australia, try Tyrrell’s 1998 Old Winery Shiraz at only $14.95. This ready-to-drink, crowd pleaser has rounded, spicy, bright, tropical black cherry flavours.

At almost the same price ($14.90), Casa Silva 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot may even be a better choice. Originating in Chile’s Colchagua Valley, its zesty, chocolaty, tropical-directed, fruit-infested flavours will give the Aussi a run for the money. Get a bottle of each and let them fight it out on your table.

But wait, there are more choices. First, from Spain’s Toro region comes Vina Bajoz 1996 Crianza at $15.70. Made from Tempranillo, it’s thankfully free of stogy, heavy oaky notes that obliterate the fruit of some pricier Riojas. Indeed, its bright raspberry purée flavours still shine after four years.

From Argentina at $12.85 comes an interesting offbeat entry - Nieto Y Senstiner 1999 Syrah Reserva. Its smoky, slightly meaty, black cherry nose is reminiscent of South African Pinotage. On the palate its minty, gently leathery, sun dried cherry tomato flavours evoke game dishes or roast goose.

Last but not least is a tasty Swiss ditty Imesch 1999 Pinot Noir du Valais. It’s way too light to win accolades from Robert Parker followers, but what a charmer. The fragrant, candied, cherry nose and crisp, slightly spicy, fruity flavours will bring smiles of delight to the lips of any veal Holstein or schnitzel fan.

Moving on to the best whites of the release, at $16.75 Wairau River 1999 Sauvignon Blanc is one of my favourites. Here’s a nose with lovely, fresh, vibrant, melon fruit matched by dry, tangy, New Zealand gooseberry flavours - perfection with oysters and seafood dishes.

For Chardonnay fans, my best buy pick is Nederburg 1999 Chardonnay Reserve at $15.60 from South Africa. While it’s a tad flavourful for seafood, the delicious, expansive, vanilla and creamy pear flavours with its twitch of cloves makes it a natural for poultry.

Finally, for sheer delight try J. J. Prüm 1997 Wehlener Sonnenuhr at $22.45. It may only have 8.5% alcohol but it’s slightly sweet, lively, honeyed, fresh melon flavours are enough to charm your socks off. And don’t miss the sweet, voluptuous Henriques & Henriques 15 Year Old Malmsey at $49.70 (only 180 bottles) for dessert.