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Michael Vaughan’s February 20th Best Buys
The following four from the current Vintages Release are worth tryin. To check LCBO inventory click on the image.
There are many, many spirits on sale at the LCBO each month - some good, others rather disappointing. How does one find out which is best? My aim is to give you the lowdown on what's worth buying for each sale. At the outset, let me openly admit that I am always amazed how many people do not prefer their favourite brands. It seems that advertising and peer pressure are the keys to much of our purchasing behavior. Few of us, including myself, take time out to investigate whether our favourite brand. It isn’t all that surprising. It takes time and money to do comparative blind taste tests of the spirits on the market. “Why bother spending money on something that we may not like?” pervades our thinking. For years, I was a believer in Bombay Sapphire Gin. Why? Because I loved the look of the bottle and my friends also liked it as well. It wasn’t until the day I sat down with the ever-friendly, gin-aficionado Jaymz Bee and actually conducted a massive day-long comparative gin (and gin martini) tasting that I discovered that Bombay Gin wasn’t my favourite – not by a long shot! Wow, all those years of wandering in the wilderness quaffing down unpreferred martinis. Of course, because I thought that Bombay Sapphire was “the best” I was a happy camper. It really emphasized the point that, when it comes to spirits, ignorance is bliss. That and the fact that the spirit’s natural are diluted, in some cases even disappear, in many cocktails. How many great gins using cheap, artificially-flavoured ingredients have been compromised? I have even attended product launches where the signature cocktails served were totally undrinkable. The fact that they were being yummed up by some guests is a pretty sad commentary on the sheer level of ignorance about what cocktails should taste like. As for my top value in that decade-plus-old comparative GIN blind tasting, it turned out to be Tanqueray Dry Gin ($26.75 - #2691). Now you might think that because this was one of my favs, that I would love Tanqueray #10 ($41.95 - #600163). The answer is no – not even remotely. I don’t care for the more flavourful and much pricier #10 - it just isn’t to my taste. From more recent tastings, I enjoy the well-priced Broker's Premium London Dry ($24.60 - #605162) and the excellent premium Hendrick's Gin ($41.95 - #637504) which currently has 10 AIR MILES® until February 27, 2010. Here is what I said when it was launched. One of the discounted Vintages items I recommend is Juniper Green Organic London Dry Gin (originally $28.95 – Vintages #595462). It has 43% alcohol and is now on sale for $22.65. Here is my tasting note: Clear colour with a very faint blue tinge. Very slightly sweet, honeyed, spicy, ripe melon-citrus nose with some white pepper notes. Fairly dry, rounded, honeyed, spicy, juniper berry, white pepper and zesty paprika flavours. Produced from 100% organic grain. A Delicious Single Malt Scotch Moving on, to other spirits, my number one February best buy is the triple distilled, award-winning Auchentoshan 12 Year Old Single Malt (#107359) now on sale with a $5-LTO (until February 28) for only $45.20. It hits the sp A Classic Cognac Those searching for the best will now be able to take advantage of a The Best Rum I have raved about El Dorado rums. In my NP column, I said "I have to admit that it's almost a shame to add anything to the dangerously drinkable El Dorado 5-Year-Old Demerara Rum (894014)… the gently honeyed, gingerbread-tinged flavours are prefect served neat on the rocks." It now has a $1-LTO and goes for $24.00.
Meanwhile, with a current $3-LTO, the smooth, complex El Dorado 15-Year-Old Special Reserve Rum (705418) at $56.75 was the "Best in Class" Gold Medal winner at the International Wine & Spirits Competition in London. A Tasty New Vodka Fina Here is my summary list along with linked reviews of more 1,200 spirits that have been released through Vintages - click here
I did a quick search of my tasting note database and discovered that most of these releases were, in fact, quite unremarkable. In fact, the majority of these unsold Vintages wines got a thumb’s down when originally released. In this instance, I didn't know whether this wine was actually reviewed and rated by the highly-regarded critic quoted. This is because the writer in question does not actually taste all the releases. Obviously, it’s important to know who actually reviewed this wine. As the identity of the actual taster is not revealed, we are left in the dark. Moreover, as this Riesling was released last summer, it is questionable whether this wine could have gotten better – more likely, it would deteriorate especially as it comes with a cork closure. Unfortunately, Vintages refuses to contact critics prior to using their ratings. This is why you never see my scores being quoted! If yoy want t o see my detailed scores on each of the 10 items in the Vintages sale click here. * * * * * * * * * * Almost all of the January 9th Vintages release items still sit on the shelves. It’s a shame that some wine lovers have the attention span of a mosquito. Great buys from two weeks ago are still great buys today! To help you decide for yourself, here is my previous issue of the January 9th Vintage Assessments. All items are linked to VINTAGES availability making tracking down the ones you want to buy very easy. Click here to see.
Also, we now have individual Vintages Release BUYER’S REPORTS of every item with all the ratings. It includes all In-Store Discoveries (appearing at the end of the list). The items are sorted as follows: spirits, fortified wines, white wines, red wines and rose. Every item is linked to Michael Vaughan's review and the report includes the name of the agent, # of cases available, lot number, organic status, alcohol, etc. To see the January 9th Vintages Buyer’s Report click here. You will find that this report is not linked to our database because that is reserved for FBTI Supporters who have special access codes. To get a trial copy click here and state exactly what you want.
REDS – From France - Rhone
From Italy’s Veneto
From Argentina
Best Buy of the Release (Portugal)
Get the full scoop – what to buy and what to avoid – before they even hit the shelves. Subscribe today – click here - and get $20 off! * * * * * * * * * * Wow - what a long year. This is the only time that I get a bit of a break. Doing over 110 detailed tastings reviews every two weeks may sound like fun, but believe me it's a serious commitment. I now have more than 23,000 Vintages tasting notes posted on my database. It isn't just note-taking. Getting the number of cases for each item (something only available here), the name of the agent, the lot number, etc. takes a additional time and effort. Plus, every item in Vintage Assessments is linked to the LCBO database - another reader bonus that takes time to do. Hopefully, it all adds up to a user-friendly experience. That and the conistency of having the same taster for the past 20 years. In fact, 2010 marks the 20th year that I have been producing Vintage Assessments. While we established an email version almost a decade ago, we still actually print and mail each and every issue of Vintage Assessments 25 times a year. I was sadened to discover that Vintage Assessments is the last remaining bi-weekly print wine review remaining in Canada. It's been a huge effort and it would not have been possible without my loyal FBTI Supporters. My personal challenge this year was the loss of my trusted assistant of over 6 years. Tirto, or Mr. T as he was called, was invaluable in getting my notes posted. It's embarassing to admit that he was probably the only person alive who could read my tasting notes. The 2009 learning curve has been challenging and the economy hasn't helped. In addition to my FBTI Supporters, I must sincerely thank the importers and domestic producers who have stood by our publication, supporting the my vision to bring wine lovers - from beginners to professionals - honest, critical evaluations of each and every item on release. We are planning some great things for 2010 - a truly innovative vision for wine lovers. At a time when everthing is becoming increasingly homogenized, we hope to bring you more interesting and better reviews. To this end, I have enlisted the educated palates of Julian Hitner and Patricia Noonan. Even Donald Ziraldo has something to say about the wines of Ontario. * * * * * * * * * * * * * There are a number of fine buys - check it out, you will not be disappointed.
I was just talking to a Toronto sommelier who was returning a couple of cases of unsold Beaujolais Nouveau Villages to Vintages (released on November 19). I am told that this year’s sales were not brisk, despite the wine being much better than last year’s edition. The economy combined with the focus on cheap New World wines has a lot to do with the demise of Nouveau. “More important,” my friend says, “Nouveau is no longer fashionable. Success was always been tied to a multitude of major Nouveau promotions, primarily by the French. For the past five years, there’s been a continuing absence of any such advertising hoop-la. In fact, ever the LCBO does nothing. This has had a huge impact Nouveau visibility – out of sight, out of mind.” Perhaps it’s good thing that he has returned these wines, which are currently priced at $14.95, because next Monday, December 14 (three and one-half weeks after the day of the launch), the price drops by $5 a bottle to only $9.95. Recommended - now $9.95 on December 14 Explorer's Selection - now $9.95 on December 14 Vintages Essentials I was recently in the LCBO lab for a tasting of the Vintages Essentials. Well almost: of ten Vintages Essentials spirits just one was tasted. This saga - a continuing major shortcoming by the organizers of Vintages Essentials tastings – has gone on unaddressed for years. Thankfully, we did manage to assess 4 of 5 Champagne selections (to see reviews click here). Missing was all-too-delicate Cristal Brut, which I am rarely impressed with, especially at the $286.95 price. If you have to spend a lot of money on Champagne then do it a tasteful manner – buy the cheaper, much tastier ***+ Dom Perignon at only $219.95. Moving on, there are two Tawny Ports, a 10 and 20 year old, the first a bit cooked, the second focused on sweet caramel and raisins. While originating from a reputable house, for my palate they are overpriced at $34.95 and $67.95 respectively. Better value awaits you elsewhere. Finally, there are 83 table wines (including 9 sweet Ontario dessert wines). I have to confess that many of these items are not really “essential” for anything. The only reason they exist is that suppliers are willing to pay a special fee to the LCBO for the “privilege” of continuous exposure. As my readers know, we only have a few ads in each issue of Vintage Assessments. I try and make sure that it’s a win-win situation for both sides by choosing good products. The reason is that I do not want to disappoint readers with ads for crappy wines. It’s one of those catch-22 situations, because, in general, the worse the wine, the bigger the advertising budget. There are many, many, items I would love to advertise but, unfortunately, they have no ad budgets. I am reliably informed that this absence of cash is the result of being “sucked dry” by innumerable expensive LCBO marketing programs. Back to Gamay. What impressed me about the Louis Jadot 2008 Beaujolais-Villages (365924 - $16.95) was the fact the not on Before moving on, let me comment on its companion white Of course, these vintages turn over and while some 2007 (13% alcohol) might remain in some stores, the 2008 (only 12.5% alcohol) is is now what is generally available. I picked up a bottle and was impressed by the consistency. The 2008 rated a slightly lower ** but is still Recommended. However, it’s just a bit lighter and tangier than the outstanding 2007. Having said that, the 2008 is also a bit less toasty meaning that it would pair better with seafood. You may not be aware of the Jadot Vintages gift pack available. When I visited the Keele & St. Clair LCBO outlet, they were no where to be found. According the Vintages Gift Catalogue the 2-bottle Jadot gift package (132829 - $36.95) has the highly-rated 2007 Chardonnay, but the Beaujolais-Villages pictured is 2008! Let me assure you that lots of folks still love Beaujolais. For instance, * * * * * * * * * *
I have have tasted this wine over many years and believe that this may well be the best they have ever produced.
There are a number of Vintage Assessments highlights in the November 21st Vintages release. For those who do not subscribe, here is a copy of our last edition. Check it out and you can get it for every release (25 times annually) by becoming an FBTI Supporter with a linited time $20 discount. Click here to see. * * * * * * * A highlight of this year’s Gourmet Food & Wine Expo is the presence of so many fine, well-priced, wines from Portugal. It’s only in the past decade that a real revolution has taken place in the production of serious high quality wine. The fact that is has taken so long is attributable to the fact that making great wine is expensive. Yields have to be reduced, high quality oak has to be purchased and significant investment must be made in modern vinification technology. Portugal has limited resources – it is not one of the wealthier members of the EEC. Because its wines have traditionally been modestly-priced, many consumers are reluctant to pay higher prices. Spear They start for as little as $7.95 for the Alandra Red (89961). Move over Fuzion, this delicious, ready-to-drink blend of Moreto, Castelão and Trincadeira has juicy, bright, plummy-strawberry flavours with just a faint hint of sweetness. Served ever so slightly chilled, it's a heck of a lot more appealing than most of the more expensive 2009 nouveau/novello wines tasted last Tuesday. It’s made by Herdade do Esporao, available on the LCBO General List and is my oak-free contender for the best value red quaffer of the year! Champagne Lover ’s Best Kept Secret * * * * * * * * * * So here is the line-up for the “Nouveau” release, which always occurs on the third Thursday of November. The ever-shrinking number of cases reflects the rising lack of interest in what often represents overpriced wine. There are better and cheaper wines out there. Let me assure you that I can say this and still be a fan because when it’s good, Nouveau can be quite charming. To see last year's notes click here The problem is that when its bad, it’s usually quite awful. Sadly, this was certainly the case with many of the 2008 releases. Thankfully, there is only one serious disappointment this year. So, for what it’s worth, here are my reviews of the current releases – eight in total, which I tasted yesterday afternoon in a blind tasting. France • Recommended • Recommended 85.5 points (*/*+) Bichot 2009 Beaujolais Nouveau 83 (*) Mommessin 2009 Beaujolais Nouveau • Recommended 88 (**) Duboeuf 2009 Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau Italy • Recommended 83 (*) Negrar 2009 Novello del Veneto IGT The arrival of the 2009 nouveau wines will also be celebrated with free customer samplings at four LCBO stores in Toronto and Ottawa Thursday, November 19: * * * * * * * * * * Kicking off, the Concha y Toro 2007 Marqués de Casa Concha Chardonnay was a **+ (out of ***) release highlight white at only $17.95 (342857). If you think that you have seen it before – you have! The first shipment was released on May 23, 2009 at $17.95. For whatever reason, the new batch (with a different lot number L771539 on the back label) is even better. It originates in the Pirque region of the Chile’s Maipo Valley and in two words is complex & toasty. It has a very bright, medium-light yellow colour. The nose is very attractive with honeyed, ripe lemon-melon, tropical fruit cocktail fruit along with some toasty notes. Dry, quite well structured, medium bodied, harmonious, ripe lemon-melon flavours with a fine lingering, cedar-tinged finish. While it isn’t meant to pair with seafood (perfect for poultry), if you like a New World style Chard then this is it. There are 499 cases at Vintages. Here is the www.MyVintages.com fully-linked guide to the six best buys in the release.: * * * * * * * I am looking at the list of producers pouring at next Tuesday’s afternoon’s trade tasting (November 10th) and it’s impressive. With 26 wineries in attendance, there is something for everyone including 10 wineries who are looking for Ontraio representation. While most of the wines on show are under $20, there are some premium higher-priced destination selections, including Luigi Bosca 2006 Gala 2 (table 21), Andeluna Cellars 2004 Reserve Malbec (table 2), Bodegas Nieto Senetiner 2008 Bonarda Limited Edition (table 26), Pascual Toso 2007 Alta Reserva Syrah (table 14), Norton 2006 Reserva Malbec (table 15), Trapiche 2006 Malbec Single Vineyard (table 160), Trivento 2007 Goilden Reserve Syrah (table 22), etc. To see the Calalogue click here . A quick look at the Vintages releases since 2000 – a total of 502 and counting - reveals lots of best buys. Of course, there are a number of items on the LCBO “general list” – 45 in total - some of which are seasonal plus a few (6) which have been delisted (including some less-than-friendly animal wines like the Funky Llama series). * * * * * * *
As for a companion white, make sure you get a couple of bottles of KWV Cathedral Cellar 2007 Chardonnay (328559 - $13.95). This WO Coastal Region Chard is rich and toasty weighing in with 14.7% alcohol and scoring a massive **+/***. It has a fairly deep yellow colour and an intense, spicy, cedary, slightly sweetish, ripe pear and lemon meringue nose. On the palate it is slightly spicy, medium bodied and well structured with cedary, ripe lemon-pear purée flavours and a lingering, caramel-tinged finish. Fermented and aged in new French oak barrels for 9 months, this terrific best buy is similar to 2006 (**/**+) released in VINTAGES on March 14, 2009 at $13.95. Note that this wine won a double gold at the 2009 Michaelangelo Wine Show and also placed well at Veritas (Gold), Chardonnay du Monde (Silver) and Decanter World Wine Awards (Commendation). From Portugal’s Alentejano, you’re going to have a tough time to find better value than Cortes de Cima 2008 Chaminé (650291 -$14.95). It scored a very respectable **. It has an extremely deep intense purple colour. The nose is quite lovely with spicy, plummy, raspberry-cherry purée notes and hints of vanilla. On the palate it’s dry, medium bodied and harmonious with bright, plummy, ripe crancherry flavours and a lingering, slightly cedary finish. This very tasty, ready to drink, blend of 49% Syrah, 45% Aragonez (Tempranillo), 2% Touriga Nacional, 2% Trincadeira, 1% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 1% Petit Verdot is at its peak. Finally, an excellent recommended/best buy from Bordeaux. 2005 Château Bégadanet (138875 - $19.95) struts its Médoc character with style. Deep intense purple colour, it has a very slightly earthy, spicy, plummy, baked cherry nose. On the palate it’s dry, very slightly tart and medium bodied with lifted, plummy, dried red cherry flavours and a lingering, sandalwood-tinged finish. Great value and ready to enjoy, especially with a rib steak. Other best buys whites include this tasty Vinho Verde from Portugal. Muros Antigos 2008 Loureiro (132688 - $15.95) shows lots of flair despite its low 12% alcohol. It has an attractive, intense, very slightly spicy, honeyed, ripe yellow grapefruit nose. On the palate it’s dry, very bright, medium to medium-light bodied and quite delicious with tangy, ripe, grapefruit flavours and a lingering, mineral-tinged finish. Terrific with oysters and seafood. Another fine buy from British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley is the recommended/best buy Mission Hill 2007 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc VQA (57430 - $19.95). It has a light yellow colour and attractive, fresh, fairly juicy, ripe yellow grapefruit-melon aromas. Dry, harmonious, medium bodied and nicely structured, the ripe melon flavours are quite outstanding along with its lingering, ripe grapefruit finish. Showing very nicely – it’s another fine oyster wine and comes with a convenient screwcap closure. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Great Whites: Great Reds: Recommended *+ Recommended **/**+ From the September 12th release: From the August 29th release: * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
I am sure that readers are familiar with my passion for Pinot Noir. So let me say how pleased I was to find what I consider to be the best buy Pinot Noir in Ontario. Make a beeline to table #4 Alcohol: 13.3% Two terrific Chardonnays from the Saturday September 12th release will also be available to taste. First is **/**+ (88.5 points) Rosehall Run 2007 Cuvée County Chardonnay (132928 - $17.95). This VQA Prince Edward County white has 12.7% alcohol and a bright, medium yellow colour. The nose is fairly intense, quite complex and slightly spicy with attractive, ripe lemon-melon fruit along with some very slightly leesy, toasty notes. Dry, quite well-structured, medium bodied, flavourful, ripe, lemon-melon-pear flavours with a very fine, lingering, crisp finish. Lots of complexity for the money. A highlight is ***/***+ (93 points) Hidden Bench 2007 Estate Chardonnay (68817 - $35.20) from the Beamsville Bench with 14.3% alcohol. The nose is intense, complex and slightly toasty with ripe lemon and key lime pie notes. Intense, medium to medium-full bodied, harmonious, slightly spicy, ripe lemon-lime flavours with some faintly smoky, vanilla-tinged, mineral notes on the lingering, dried pear finish. To sign up for the trade event click here. Coming Up: Saturday, July 7 & 8 - Hillebrand Jazz Michael Vaughan’s September 4th Update
Remember that only Vintage Assessments Supporters get all the tasting details & links in advance of the sale. Also, the August 31st Vintages Delist which features 27 items from the May 2 Vintages release.
Michael Vaughan’s August 28 Update
Today, I am making public the Vintages August 17th sale of 61 items from the March 28 and April 11 releases. A great summer sipper is the Mission Hill 2006 Family Estate Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (57430) a recommended **+ best buy at $19.95 – now only $16.35.
August 29th Vintages Release As for tomorrow's Vintages release, my associate Julian Hitner has his top ten list in Sommelier Selects click here to see. In addition, here are some of my favourites: New Zealand Australia Argentina Germany South Africa – RELEASE HIGHLIGHT Best Value Red of the Release France - Bordeaux Michael Vaughan’s August 14 Update
The best value from Burgundy is the ** Vincent 2007 Champ Brule Macon-Villages(127423) at $18.95. It has a bright, light yellow colour and gently complex, nutty, slightly spicy, baked, ripe lemon nose. Dry, crisp and slightly spicy, it's surprisingly flavourful with ripe lemon-melon-apples followed up by a slightly nutty finish. From New Zealand's South Island Marlborough region Wairau Valley comes Wither Hills 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (919514) at $17.95. It rated **+ (out of ***) and is a best buy. Look for attractive, gently spicy, honeyed, grassy, lemony, grapefruit aromas and a dry, fresh, harmonious, slightly spicy, somewhat grassy, yellow grapefruit flavours with a lingering be great with seafood. Two picks from Ontario. The first is Creekside Estate 2007 Laura's Blend White (121764) at $17.95 with a **/**+ rating. This VQA Niagara Peninsula is an assemblage of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Gris and Riesling. It has intense, spicy, very pleasant, slightly honeyed, ripe melon nose. Dry, crisp, spicy, zesty, ripe-melon-lemon fruit with honeyed grapefruit on the lingering finish. It too comes with a screwcap closure and is ready to drink.
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a wine value award winner!
recommended/best buy 2008 (***) released on February 14, 2009 at $13.95. I really like this juicy, mocha-coffee style, which makes Pinotage, a sometime difficult grape, accessible to everyone. As stated earlier this year, master winemaker 
lightly spicy, honeyed, ripe, lemon-melon nose. Very effervescence slightly honeyed, faintly off-dry, harmonious, medium to medium-light bodied, slightly spicy, ripe lemon-melon flavours with a crisp lingering finish. Last appeared in Vintages (**) on August 2, 2008 at $14.95 and was a Recommended/Best Buy. This one is even better with greater ripeness and depth of flavour!
buttered toast, ripe black cherry nose. Fairly tangy, dry, medium bodied, spicy, gently juicy, plummy-cherry flavours with cedar and smoke on the lingering finish. An easy-to-drink, smooth, wide-appeal style. I have always enjoyed this distinctive barrel-fermented Rioja (in new 225-litre American oak) - it is both modern and quite unique. It isn’t for traditionalists. The recommended 2006 (**/**+) was released on July 5, 2008 at $18.95.
and taste the remarkably delicious 
The second is the best-priced Merlot to come out of Ontario in quite some time.