Out of the way Blue Ginger worth the detour -- sweet-tooth snafus aside

Review by Michael Vaughan
(Published February 4 , 2000)

Who'd have thought that a restaurant jammed between two banks and across from the Food Terminal would be worth a detour to the middle of nowhere? (Think N.Y.C's Tribeca late '70s, early '80s.) Yet despite Blue Ginger's uncool Queensway locale, it's attracting full houses.

The C.V. of owner/chef de cuisine Michael Punzo may just be the reason. Punzo, who bought the building last May, next to Rocco's Plum Tomato Trattoria, a popular pizza pitstop, has, at 35, worked in Toronto's best kitchens. Currently trying to nail down another restaurant near Bloor and Islington, he went from apprenticeships at both Scaramouche and Yorkville's Four Seasons Hotel, to an executive chef post at Acqua. Obviously this man knows how to pull out all the stops.

Its casual atmosphere sports a somewhat uncompleted look: four stools at the bar are draped with coats, waiting patiently for a specially ordered rack to arrive. And low-level cafe shutters in the front window would help make it more intimate not to mention block out the blinding barrage of lights from passing cars.

Plates are large, beautifully presented and arrive in an interesting variety of shapes. While we're told that oil and balsamic "always" accompany the bread, we get three Sealtest butter packets -- left over from a previous job. Well, that's simply bad judgment. Not impressed.

Another disappointment is the sold-out chef's leek, carrot and ginger soup ($4.50). But I'm assured that Blue Ginger's a la minute signature chowder ($5.95) is available. Confusing bits and pieces of information from our waiter are quickly swallowed and forgotten after sampling this well-executed, gently creamy, spicy chowder with shrimp and Yukon gold. Shades of a cream-infused, extremely light vichyssoise scented with a sliver of fresh ginger, infused with lemon, tomatoes and even an oven roasted garlic bit make this an example of fusion at its best.

The slash and burn calamari (7.95) is simple, yet superb. A large perfectly grilled squid has been cut into what seems to be a series of spirals nearly three inches in diameter. And despite being frozen (as most squid in Toronto are), it’s extremely tender and fresh-tasting, topped with a hint of tomato concasse and a tasty, light citrus beurre blanc.

I feel pretty confident that the five other appetizers ($7.95) are as delicious. I would have liked to try the large sea scallops -- alas, also not available. They appear in the Saigon, featuring two Asian five-spice seared critters served with grilled tropical fruit salsa. Another choice worth exploring is the Madras, featuring two crispy roasted quail stuffed with basmati rice and apricots drunk on bourbon.

And mains are equally impressive. Naturally, the Blue Ginger is a must, a roasted South African Capensis in a cilantro-ginger and almond crust ($15.95). Not exactly a household word like tuna, Capensis is actually a species of hake, similar to a small cod. Not fishy, the large portion of sweet-like, firm yet tender fillet is accompanied by delicious sweet braised bok choy and a Provencal-inspired melody of al dente white and black beans. An impressive, large, crunchy, rolled grilled pappadam chip on top sits there like a rocket ready for lift off.

Another tasty treat is the very tender and flavourful grilled double-cut veal chop ($17.95) served medium -- preferred rare. It was accompanied with roasted garlic hand-mashed potatoes and grilled vegetables. Well, there is grilled and there is grilled. Two medium-sized pieces of virtually whole carrot sit unpretentiously on the plate. Don’t look like much, that is, until I sink my teeth into them. Unadulterated grilled perfection: sweet, buttery -- delicieux.

This place verges on the safer side of four stars -- no thanks to the desserts. Four of them (each $6), a flourless chocolate torte, crème brulée, lemon short cake and wild berry cheesecake, just don't cook up the same raves. A low-rise crème brulée sits in a small ramekin in the centre of a large, attractively decorated plate. Its slightly crunchy top is good, but no detour, and its accompanying small, tuile-inspired biscuit is not fresh. And while I am a big fan of flourless chocolate torte, this one's offensive staleness makes it simply inedible. Confirming my criticism, another slab is taken to an adjoining table, where I overhear the word stale being bandied about. Several days later I discuss this dismal failure with the chef. He swears to its freshness, but admits mounting complaints made him remove it from the menu.

A lemon shortcake substitutes -- ahh, a fresh, moist light cake, lots of cream and a refreshing slice of caramelized lemon. The best choice, to be sure, but still no detour.

Ginger was cultivated by the ancient Chinese and Indian civilizations, and was eventually "discovered" and highly prized by Europeans in the 13th century as an aphrodisiac. The root is also considered good as a tonic, antiseptic and diuretic to aid in digestion. But no need for digestive aids here. In spite of sweet-toothed snafus, Punzo is still a talent whose cuisine you must catch. You might not be attracted to this humble, out of the way, cozy, little unfinished-looking hideaway with tres early '90s decor appeal, but the dinner at Blue Ginger is worth the detour -- excellent solo cooking by Punzo and unexpectedly reasonable prices for this cuisine quality. I'd return and re-order any of the mains. But avoid weekends. It’s already too busy and really gouges away at otherwise amiable service.
 

Photo by Marijke Leupen
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