Vintage Assessments Home Page

Recent Articles

Archive of National Post Articles

It’s all Greek to Me –Bargain Wines!
• A Plethora of Upcoming Events •
Beringer’s Best Buys in Today’s Vintages Release
Tasters Diary
© By Michael Vaughan
Saturday, October 20, 2001

So where is Michael Vaughan’s National Post column this week? If you want to know, you’ll have to ask Editor Ken Whyte at kwhyte@nationalpost.com.  To send him an e-mail Click Here.

It seems that fewer and fewer professional bona fide wine and spirits writers still appear in the mainstream press. Part of the problem is revenue, or the lack of it. Our friends at the LCBO seem determined to suck up advertising like a huge vacuum cleaner. This month’s Food & Drink Magazine, for instance, contains almost three-quarters of a million in advertising revenue. That’s scary when you see what’s happening to most newspapers and magazines.

On a more positive note, there are two events this weekend worth looking into. The first is a Greek Wine Festival which kicks off today at 6:00 p.m. at Cypriot Community Centre (located at 6 Thorncliffe Blvd). For a modest $10 you’ll be able to buy tickets and sample some sixty wines. There’s going to be plenty of free food and lots of entertainment – the partying kicks off at 10 pm. For those who think the recession is here (do I see a room full of raised hands?), I think you’ll discover some great values. For info call Alex at Dionysus Wines & Spirits (416) 223-6567 or email Dionysus@noblemed.com

Tomorrow, Sunday, October 21^st (through to the 23^rd) the Grocery Innovations Canada 2001 takes place at Toronto’s Metro Convention. Organized by the Canadian Federation of Independent Grocers features over 700 exhibits showcasing the latest in food and grocery products. For details to this trade show call (416) 654-4484 or visit www.groceryinnovations.com

Later this week on Wednesday, October 24th the Spain: A Wine Collection a trade only tasting takes place at U of T Hart House Great Hall from 2 - 5 pm. Trade inquiries call Maria at the Spanish Trade Commission (416) 597-1518. There is also an evening tasting for consumers from 6 - 9 pm in support of the Arthritis Society. Tickets are $50 (only $40 for FBTI & Vintages Assessments supporters). Call (416) 979-3353 ext. 380 to reserve.  

On Thursday, October 25^th, the Sonoma Wine Affair takes place at the Liberty Grand, Exhibition Place. I wish I could provide you with all the copious detailed preview tasting notes but, unfortunately, it was not within our budget! Nevertheless, at least this event gives you the chance to preview a host of rather pricey wines. So even if you can’t afford to buy them, this is the place to taste more than 75 wines from 25 wineries. The consumer tasting takes place from 7 - 9:30 pm ($50) and includes a silent auction in support of Arts Etobicoke. The trade tasting is from 2:30 - 5 pm. For info call 1-800-558-2675. Remember to bring a designated driver, as public transportation to and from the Liberty Grand isn’t exactly easy.

And speaking of Sonoma, let me venture forth and recommend two fine wines from today’s Vintages Release from the Beringer Blass Portfolio:

977512 FUMÉ BLANC La Petite Etoile 1999    $25.50
Toasty, Rich & Mouthfilling **+ (out of ***)
Vineyard, Russian River Valley
(Chateau St. Jean) (260 Cases) (14.5%)  [Phi Dan]
Medium light yellow but just a tad more depth of colour than the regular Funé Blanc at $24.00.  Bright, tangy, spicy, gently herbaceous, ruby grapefruit nose.  Solid, mouthfilling, fairly rich, expressive, dry but not austere, toasty, melon-lime fruit and vanilla custard flavours linger on the palate.  Terrific length here!

939322 PINOT NOIR 1999 Sonoma County        $27.00
Ripe Black Cherries ** (out of ***)
(Chateau St. Jean) (250 Cases) (14.3%)  [Phi Dan]
Medium deep purple red colour.  Very tangy, bright, slightly sweet, stewed plum, faintly herbaceous, beetroot and black cherry nose.  Fairly rounded, rather spicy, black cherry and plum purée flavours with a pleasant touch of vanilla on the lingering finish.  Medium bodied and ready to enjoy.   

Ratings: - Below Average   * Average   *+ Above Average   ** Very Good   **+ Excellent   *** Outstanding

Last but not least, here is my inaugural weekly Tasters Diary, which reviews some of the current week’s highlights. Last Saturday I had a fascinating one-on-one breakfast interview with Jancis Robinson MW at the Sutton Place Hotel. One would think that for almost $40 for two, the kitchen would know how to make decent scrambled eggs, but no such luck. My detailed and naturally controversial Jancis Robinson interview will appear in the December edition of Wine Access. 

On Monday I met with Peter Stubbing from Framingham, which is located in the Marlborough region of New Zealand. Founded in only a few years ago in 1994 by Rex Brooke-Taylor, I have found its fragrant, bright whites to be consistently impressive.  

We kicked of with a 2000 Framingham Dry Riesling, which had lovely, bright, citrus, melon and dried apricot fruit on the nose. It’s refreshing, crisp, yellow grapefruit flavours were most delicious. Good enough to be named as New Zealand’s best Riesling by Bob Camplbell MW in the July/August edition of Cuisine Magazine (see tee Press Here) .

The 20-year-old vines produce 2-3 tons an acre meaning that just fewer than 2,000 cases were produced. It would run just over $20 a bottle and hopefully the LCBO will pick up a small lot for Vintages.

Of course, the best-known wine is the 2001 Framingham Sauvignon Blanc and this effort, despite being young, is great with lots of tangy grapefruit peel flavours. Yields run 4-7 tons to the acre meaning that Sauvignon Blanc prices are somewhat lower than Riesling. There has been no addition of Sémillon, which tends to heighten the herbal, grassy notes in New Zealand.

Agent Steven Cohen of Groupe Soleil hopes to get these and additional Framingham wines into Vintages. Our quick but stellar one course lunch took place at the packed Biffs at 4 Front Street East (where the Boston Club used to reside). One would not have known that we are in the midst of a recession - almost every seat was filled with well-heeled, mostly male, business execs who can obviously afford the hefty luncheon tariffs.

Unfortunately, not a single restaurant reviewer has noticed that there’s a change behind the stove. Gone is Frank Dodd whose cooking didn’t thrill this palate (but pleased the reviewers). In his place, for the past eight months, is executive chef Gordon Mackie who has made significant inroads with good ingredients. Calf’s liver medium rare is a great main with terrific parsniped mashed potatoes. It isn’t exactly cheap at $17, but it certainly hits the spot. I have ordered it on two occasions.

Wednesday morning found me at the Metropolitan Hotel doing a tasting of Pommery Champagne. A very articulate Prince Alain de Polignac led us through an interesting and impressive tasting. Highlights included Pommery Brut Royal, which is available on the General List at $44.95. It has a very fine, bright, slightly spicy, dried ripe lemon nose. Well-balanced, dry and crisp on the palate, its fruit driven, citrusy-apricot flavours show good persistence.

The Pommery Brut Rosé (approximately $47.95) had dry, bright, ruby grapefruit flavours. A surprisingly elegant style with lots of appeal. Of the three prestige cuvées served the 1985 Louise Pommery, which was recently disgorged and served in magnum, was quite stunning combining bright, ripe lemony, dance-on-your-tongue vivacity, along with complex hints of caramel on the lingering finish. The 1990 was heavier, fruitier, riper and more forward, while the 1982 was still crisp and fresh but without the dazzle and finesse of the great 1985. For information call Academy Brands.

After the meeting the Prince, I made my way to Biagio Restaurant for a small tasting of Serègo Alighieri Valpolicella with Count Pieralvise who was accompanied by his associate Sandro Boscaini of Masi. It’s hard to believe that this estate (where the poet Dante lived) has been in the Count’s family since 1353. Above and beyond the wines, the estate produces extra virgin olive oil, balsamic vinegar, stunning vialone nano rice, honey, fruits and various preserves. The highlight was the 1979 Serègo Alighieri Vaio Armaron, which was the first Amarone, produced when the Count joined forces with Sandro Boscaini. While it was not considered a great year, this 1979 is still extremely good. It’s gently sweet and very much alive with lots of mouthfilling, velvety, sandalwood and ripe plummy-prune flavours. A great wine for Parmesan cheese. Maxxium Canada represents both houses and the 1997 edition of this wine will be arriving in Vintages in the New Year at approximately $60.  

Count Pieralvise of  Serègo Alighieri & Sandro Boscaini of Masi

Wrapping up the week was a tasting of six Pierre Ponnelle Burgundies at Gamelle on College Street. This house is definitely undergoing a transformation under new ownership and the white 2000 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits at approximately $18 was exactly what anyone might wish for. It was well balanced and dry with bright, medium-light bodied, ripe Anjou pear flavours. The two other whites from the mostly over cropped 1999 vintage were pleasant enough, albeit still a tad youthful.

Of the three reds, the light bodied 1999 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune showed very good accessibility with spicy, bright, appealing red cherry fruit flavours. There wasn’t much complexity but at $18 expectations have to remain realistic. The Beaune 1er Cru Les Marconnets was pretty but again somewhat light for $37. The 1997 Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru ($65) was elegant and quite delicious with bright black cherry notes. It’s ironic that 1997 produced much better wines than 1999. Unfortunately the Wine Spectator’s ridiculous 83 points for this vintage scared many buyers away!  

(From left to right: Pierre Ponnelle Export Manager Franck Mayaud, 
Gamelle Owner Jean-Piere Centeno & Stephen Cohen of Group Soleil)

Those planning ahead should mark their calendars on Monday, October 29th when the 1st Annual Port Wine Tasting takes place from 2 - 6 pm at Sunnybrook Vaughan Estates. This not to be missed this trade event is organized by The Port Wine Institute and the Portugal Trade Commissioner features more than 100 Ports and an opportunity to meet many winery principles.  For info call (416) 964-6444 ext. 462.

On Tuesday, October 30^th, the South African “World Wine Tour” trade only tasting takes place from 1 - 5 pm at Capitol Centre. A select number of accredited Sommeliers and Food & Beverage Managers are invited to register for this professional afternoon trade session.  For info call DBA Communications at (416) 591-7783 or e-mail keenan@dbapr.com

Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2004
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
 (electronic or other wise) and or quotation.
Contact Michael Vaughan at
mbv@total.net