February 6, 2010

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 Julian Hitner's Sommelier Selects Report (February 6, 2010)
Starting a Wine Cellar (Part I) & February 6th Release

      Thinking of starting a wine cellar? The first thing you will need (other than a few rainy day funds) is to select a room in your house to store your wines. A ‘cold room’ in the basement is the obvious choice. Next, you will need to take measurements, so as to purchase the most suitable wine racks for the room -- always best to maximize your space. After you have installed your racks, there is nothing to stop you from starting up a collection. Not so hard, is it?

     Now that we have the basics out of the way, we can delve into the specifics. Of the actual room, many collectors opt to install a mounted cooling unit (such as on the ceiling), which keeps a constant temperature throughout the year. These can be purchased from various wine cellar companies. Though wine writers tend to disagree on what temperature the unit ought to be set, I have found that around 8°C (or 46°F) is an ideal setting, with a level of humidity set (if possible) to around 75%. Of course, more advanced cellars will have even finer temperature and humidity controls (which is why many wealthy collectors tend to opt for large-sized refrigerator units to store their very best wines); but it is widely understood that white wines, sparklings, and stickies are better aged at cooler temperatures than reds. This is why I always recommend that whites be stored near the floor, and that reds be kept on higher levels.

     Of wine racks, most are commonly made either from wood (such as pine or redwood) or metal; and it has been said that metal racks tend to result in an even slower aging process than those made of wood. Some collectors do not even have wine racks, choosing instead to keep all their wines in wooden cases stacked on top of one another (keeping the ones meant for long-term aging at the very bottom). For my part, I employ both methods, though I constantly wish I had more floor space.

     Now comes the fun part: selecting wines to be stored in your cellar. But what do you choose? Personal preference plays a key role here. There is little to be gained from buying wines that you do not even enjoy! Before we address this, however, we need to discuss aging. Let’s say you have a cellar that can hold around 1,000 bottles. The trick is to avoid purchasing too many wines that have to be aged before being opened; otherwise you could wind up with a cellar filled with wines that you are unable to drink. This happened to me about three years’ back, when I collected too much Bordeaux and not enough wine for immediate drinking! Nowadays, about half of my collection is made up of wines that are ready to be drunk at the present time or in the next several years. The other half is made up of wines that really ought not to be opened now or in the immediate future. But what about wines meant for immediate consumption? Of a cellar consisting of 1,000 bottles, I would say that around 50 to 75 wines works best, as it allows you to always feel comfortable that you have enough wine to enjoy over a period of around six to nine months. This being said, it is imperative to replenish your supplies on a regular basis. Did I mention there is a new Vintages release this weekend?

     While there is no general rule, most people tend to collect far fewer white wines than red. For a one thousand-bottle cellar, I would say that around 250 bottles ought to be white. But which wines do you choose? Personally, I believe no cellar is complete without a few dozen bottles (each) from Burgundy, Germany, Alsace, and Bordeaux. Each of these regions feature wines that can be drunk at a wide variety of stages and can be purchased at a broad range of prices. For Burgundy, it is always a good idea to have a few whites from each major village, as well as around a dozen from Chablis. For Germany, where Riesling is king, the same principal applies to each major winegrowing region, from the Mosel and Rheingau to the Rheinhessen and Pflaz. For my part, the bulk of my German collection is made up of Kabinetts and Spätleses, as I keep the sweeter wines separate. Alsace, on the other hand, is a bit more complicated. Personally, I would recommend around 6 bottles of each major varietal, with special attention awarded to Riesling and Gewurztraminer. Finally, for Bordeaux, the finest estates can be typically found in the Graves, particularly Pessac-Léognan; though many estates in the Médoc are now producing some truly fantastic whites. Indeed, the choices are endless.

     At this stage, it is important to remember that it is always best (depending on price) to purchase more than one bottle of the same wine, especially those you intend to lay down for aging. This allows you to examine – and appreciate – a specific wine’s evolution over time, which is unquestionably one of the greatest pleasures of having a well-run cellar in the first place. For instance, whenever I purchase a wine I really like for around $20.00 or higher, I usually buy three bottles: the first to open up immediately, the second to open up in a few years, and the last to open up a few years after that.

     Returning to the matter at hand, it goes without saying that there is so much more to the world of white wine than the regions already mentioned! Assuming the aforementioned regions total (around) 100 bottles, there are still 150 to go. Aside from Burgundy and Alsace, it would be unthinkable to omit about 12 bottles (each) from the Rhône and the Loire. Of the former, special attention should be awarded to Hermitage, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and Condrieu; though plenty of reasonably priced wines can be found from St-Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage. Of the latter, Vouvray, Savennières, Sancerre, and Pouilly-Fumé ought to be of prime focus. For more everyday wines, seek out Muscadet, Quincy, and Touraine -- these (with exception) aren’t really meant for aging.

     Leaving Europe for the moment, a well-rounded cellar should have no less than 12 whites from California, where Chardonnay reigns supreme; oak-aged Sauvignon Blanc (sometimes called ‘Fumé Blanc’) and Roussanne-Marsanne blends are also worth seeking out. Turning our attention northward, no patriotic collector ought to be without a few Canadian Rieslings, Chardonnays, and Gewürztraminers -- once again, I would stick with around 12 bottles. Heading south of the equator, the same applies to Chile and Argentina, where whites have always played second fiddle to reds. Nonetheless, there are some great Chardonnays to be had from both countries, and Argentina has developed a particular knack for crafting intriguing Torrontés. At present, I would recommend around 5 bottles from each country.

     Crossing the ocean, Australia is no slouch when it comes to producing top-notch whites. If I were starting a cellar from scratch, I would recommend around 10 Rieslings (particularly from the Clare Valley, the Great Southern, and Tasmania), 6 Semillons (and a few Chardonnays) from the Hunter Valley, and 8 Chardonnays (plus a few Sauvignon-blends) from Margaret River and the Yarra Valley. From New Zealand, aside from Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc (of which a few bottles is always good to keep in the house for immediate consumption), you would be well advised to procure around 4 bottles (each) of Chardonnay, Riesling, and Gewürztraminer. Switching to South Africa, a few Steens (Chenin Blancs) and Chardonnays never hurt anyone -- I’d grab around 6 bottles. Adding all these New World wines up, the total comes to around 100 wines, bringing the grand total of white wines up to approximately 200 bottles.

     To generate the last 50 bottles (remembering that our desired total is around 250), our attention returns to Europe. Outside of France and Germany, the best country for white wine is (arguably) Austria. Here, I would recommend procuring about 12 bottles (each) of Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. The best subregions are located in the Niederösterreich: Wachau, Kremstal, and Kamptal. Heading south to Italy, most Italian whites are strictly meant for immediate consumption. My personal favourites are Chardonnays (and Friulano) from Friuli and Soave from the Veneto. This being said, virtually all the finest houses in Italy tend to produce at least some sort of premium Chardonnay, some of which can be extremely well done. I’d say a well-rounded wine cellar ought to have about 6 of these wines (with a few premium Soaves and Friulis), along with around six Italian whites for everyday drinking -- Vernaccia, Verduzzo, Vermentino, Fiano, Greco, and Falanghina are my top choices. Heading northward into Switzerland, a few high-quality bottles of Chasselas (also called Fendant) from Vaud and Valais are also worth having around.

     Turning out attention to Spain, I would recommend obtaining about 8 bottles, with particular attention paid to Rioja (predominantly Viura), Rías Biaxas (Albariño), Rueda (Verdejo), and Valdeorras (Godello) -- keeping in mind that, excepting (traditional) white Rioja, these wines tend to be meant for immediate-term cellaring only. Traveling west into Portugal, a few bottles of Vinho Verde (predominantly Alvarinho) and Arinto (found throughout the country) are always worth purchasing. Once again, most of these are meant for immediate drinking.

     At this point, we have probably reached around 250 white wines. But what if you have a little extra space? These days, I tend to use my extra white wine space for German Rieslings and Margaret River Chardonnay. As I said before, personal preference is key, but a truly eclectic cellar shall always contain wines from a wide variety of regions, reflect a wide variety of prices, as well as be capable of consumption over a wide variety of periods. Sounds complicated? Just wait ‘til we tackle the reds …

The February 6th Release & 2006 Bordeaux Reviews:

     Here we go again: another release! This time round, the theme is ‘North of 90: high-scoring wines at head-turning prices; plus Valentine’s Wines: 14 picks for Feb 14.’ For whites, my top nod for sommeliers goes to the Terredora 2008 ‘Loggia della Serra’, Greco di Tufo DOCG (88/100, $19.95), displaying lovely scents of citrus honeysuckle, lemon, and herbs; carrying very fine balance and acidity. Crafted from the ancient (and recently rejuvenated) Greco grape varietal, which is most commonly found in the southern winegrowing regions of Italy (particularly Campania), sommeliers ought to take note of this delightful grape as a wonderful way of introducing guests to the many other well-priced wines (both red and white) that Southern Italy has to offer. Another suggestion is the ‘Mermont’ 2008 Picpoul de Pinet, Côteaux de Languedoc AOC (86/100, $11.95), a very crisp, refreshing white that, at this price, ought to give overpriced Italian Pinot Grigio – found on virtually every wine list in the city – a run for its money. An ideal pairing partner for all sorts of seafood dishes.

     For reds, I enthusiastically recommend the Perrin & Fils 2007 ‘Les Christins’, Vacqueyras AOC (90/100, $22.95), a first-rate Southern Rhône red of remarkable structure, quality, and character; boasting beautiful notes of fresh leathery plums, currants, herbs, and spice. Most likely, this wine shall be recommended by only a very few number of wine writers, as the bottle presented at the ‘press release’ (as we call it) was not entirely up to speck -- my own note comes from a much finer bottle shown to the product consultants. Another suggestion is the Paxton 2005 Shiraz, ‘Jones Block’, McLaren Vale, Australia (90/100, $26.95): deliciously smooth, with great structure, intensity, and length -- very attractive.

     Also this Saturday, Vintages continues its release of around half a dozen new 2006 clarets. Personally, I was very much taken with the 2006 Domaine de Chevalier, Pessac-Léognan AOC (93/100, $68.00): superbly refined, with elegant aromas of mocha and fresh black cherries, red currants, blackberries, vanilla, and spice. More expensive, yet equally outstanding, is the 2006 Château Smith Haut Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan AOC (93/100, $84.00): modern, more mineral-laden, and very refined, with beautiful aromas of roasted currants, mocha, blackberries, vanilla, and spice. Which one would you choose?

Here are my top suggestions from the February 6th Vintages release (licensee prices are those if purchased from LCBO outlets):

White Wines:

Jean-Marc Brocard 2007, Chablis Premier Cru Vau de Vay AOC, Burgundy, France: Starbright, light straw-lime colour. Intensely minerally at the outset, with engaging scents of fresh lemon citrus and lime, dried pears, quince, and a lovely hint of sea salt and nuts. Complex and clean, displaying vibrant fruit, nervy acidity, and an enduring hint of minerally lemon and lime on the finish. Beautiful Chablis, exhibiting just the right balance, intensity, and expressiveness. A keeper in my books. Tasted at product consultant tasting. Now-2015.
89++     $29.95 (#159012)   Halpern Enterprises    (Licensee Price: $28.45)

Elephant Hill 2008 Chardonnay, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand: Brilliant, light lime colour. Toasty, with lovely scents of slightly nutted quince, pears, dried apricots, buttercups, and just a hint of lemon and lime. Clean, with fine fruit, balanced acidity, and a delightful hint of nutted pears and quince on the finish. Admirably crafted, with good balance, style, and overall restraint. I’m curious to see how this will age. Sommelier recommended. Tasted at product consultant tasting.  Screwcap closure. Now-2014. 88     $21.95 (#141978)   HHD Imports    (Licensee Price: $20.85)

Reinhold Haart 2007 Riesling Kabinett, Piesporter QmP, Mosel, Germany:Starbright, pale lime colour. Exhibiting delicate scents of fresh melon, lemon and kerosene, giving way to lovely nuances of green grapes, honeyed lime, and a trace of spice. Complex and clean, with soft fruit, balanced acidity, and a very pleasant hint of delicate residual sugar on the finish. Delightful Kabinett, with good balance, accessibility, and freshness. Recommended. Tasted at Now-2014.
88     $19.95 (#727461)   HHD Imports    (Licensee Price: $18.95)

Terredora 2008 Greco, ‘Loggia della Serra’, Greco di Tufo DOCG, Campania, Italy: Starbright, medium yellow-straw colour. Revealing delightful citrus honeysuckle at the outset, giving way to ‘mellow’ lemon, herbs, and a hint of dried yellow plums and spice. Clean, with good fruit, balanced acidity, and a lovely hint of Golden Delicious apples on the finish. Quite unique, balanced, and appealing. Recommended. Now-2012.
88     $19.95 (#983197)   Halpern Enterprises    (Licensee Price: $18.95)

‘Mermont’ 2008 Picpoul de Pinet, Côteaux de Languedoc AOC, Midi, France: Starbright, (very) pale straw colour. Revealing pleasant leafy green apples, lemon, and a hint of fresh herbs. Clean, with light fruit, balanced acidity, and a hint of leafy green apples on the finish. Simple, yet light and refreshing. Sommelier recommended. Screwcap closure. Now-2010.
86     $11.95 (#148791)   Rogers & Company    (Licensee Price: $11.35)

Red Wines:

Marchesi Antinori 2006 ‘Solaia’,IGT Toscana, Italy:Brilliant, opaque ruby colour. Toasty and incredibly hedonistic, with sensational aromas of milk chocolate, currants, plums, baked blackberries, blueberries, earth, dried cherries, graham crackers, vanilla, and spice. Complex and immensely clean, offering gorgeous fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, and an extremely lengthy hint of mocha espresso and plums on the finish. Exceedingly delicious (albeit Parkerized), with outstanding structure, balance, style, and length. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Sangiovese, and 5% Cabernet Franc, with all the expected new French oak trimmings. A must-have for collectors and ultra-fine wine lists.  Tasted twice (though the product consultant sample was a much fresher bottle). Now-2018+.
95     $244.95 (#987586)   Halpern Enterprises    (Licensee Price: $232.70)

Renato Ratti 2005 ‘Marcenasco’,Barolo DOCG, Italy: Brilliant, medium-dark garnet colour. Toasty, with remarkably cedary (yet elegant) aromas of wild, ‘rugged’ cherries, strawberries, dried mocha, undergrowth (perhaps even a few truffles), sandalwood, and spice. Complex and incredibly clean, with beautiful fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, ending with a lovely, lasting hint of refined cedary undergrowth on the finish. Superb Barolo, displaying great structure, balance, and (positively traditional) character. Sommelier recommended, with 50,000 bottles made. Tasted twice. Now-2018. 93     $49.95 (#713479)   Prevedello & Matthews    (Licensee Price: $47.45)

Paxton 2005 Shiraz, ‘Jones Block’,McLaren Vale, Australia: Brilliant, opaque ruby colour. Toasty, with inviting aromas of intense mocha and eucalyptus, giving way to baked red currants, plums, graham crackers, earth, leather, vanilla, and spice. Complex and very clean, with delicious fruit, supple tannins, mild acidity, and a very lengthy hint of smooth red plums and light mocha on the finish. Deliciously smooth, with great flavour, style, and length. Aged for 20 months in 75% French and 25% American oak (45% new). Highly recommended. Screwcap closure. Now-2016+.
90     $26.95 (#149914)   The Living Vine    (Licensee Price: $25.60)

Perrin & Fils 2007 ‘Les Christins’,Vacqueyras AOC, Rhône, France: Brilliant, dense purple-ruby colour. Toasty, with really splendid aromas of fresh leathery plums, currants, herbs, earth, and a hint of mocha, vanilla, and spice. Complex and very clean, with fine, well-structured fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, and a lovely hint of reserved lathery plums on the finish. Beautifully crafted, with great structure, balance, and regional character. Highly recommended. 75% Grenache and 25% Syrah. Tasted twice (though the product consultant sample was by far the superior, fresher bottle). Now-2016.
90     $22.95 (#973453)   Charton Hobbs    (Licensee Price: $21.80)

Alta Vista 2007 ‘Atemporal Assemblage’,Mendoza, Argentina: Brilliant, opaque ruby colour. Toasty, with lovely notes of intense dark mocha, currants, plums, baked leather, cedar, earth, vanilla, and spice. Clean, with delicious fruit, firm tannins, milder acidity, and a lengthy hint of smooth mocha and plums on the finish. Deliciously Parkerized, with good structure, balance, and length. 43% Malbec, 36% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Syrah, and 10% Petit Verdot; aged for 12 months in French oak. Sommelier recommended. Now-2015.
89     $19.95 (#144352)   HHD Imports    (Licensee Price: $18.95)

Chocalán 2006 Malbec, ‘Gran Reserva’,Maipo Valley, Chile: Brilliant, opaque purple colour. Toasty, with lovely aromas of fresh cassis, black currants, blackberries, plums, earthy leather, mocha, vanilla, and spice. Complex and clean, with beautiful firm fruit and tannins, milder acidity, and a lengthy hint of black mocha and currants on the finish. Dense and alluring, with very good structure, balance, and style. A real original. Aged for 16 months in French oak barrels. Sommelier recommended. Now-2015.
89     $24.95 (#144394)   Saverio Schiralli    (Licensee Price: $23.70)

Juan Gil 2006 Monastrell,Jumilla DO, Spain:Brilliant, opaque ruby colour. Toasty, with lovely notes of herbed blueberries and rhubarb crumble, switching to baked blackberries, leather, and a hint of vanilla and spice. Complex and clean, with delightful, well-structured fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, and a lasting hint of herbed blackberries and plums on the finish. Splendid stuff, with good structure, balance (despite 15% alcohol), and varietal character. Sommelier recommended. Tasting at product consultant tasting. Now-2015.
88     $21.95 (#001677)   Kylix Wines    (Licensee Price: $20.85)

Château Saint-Roch 2007 ‘Chimères’,Côtes du Roussillon-Villages AOC, Midi, France: Brilliant, opaque purple-ruby colour. Toasty, revealing lovely notes of intense baked-herbaceous plums, light mocha, leathery currants, graham crackers, earth, and spice. Clean, with good fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, and a hint of roasted plums on the finish. Quite well crafted, boasting good structure, balance, and character. 65% Grenache, 30% Syrah, and 5% Carignan. Sommelier recommended. Now-2014.
88     $19.95 (#119354)   Peter Sainsbury Fine Wines & Spirits    (Licensee Price: $18.95)

Here are a few 2006 Bordeaux Reviews (licensee prices are those if purchased from LCBO outlets):

Red Wines:

Château Smith Haut Lafitte 2006,Pessac-Léognan AOC, Bordeaux, Franc: Brilliant, dark-opaque ruby colour. Toasty, with beautiful aromas of dark roasted currants and mocha, plums, blackberries, earth, vanilla, and spice. Superbly complex and clean, offering fine fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, and a very elegant hint of reserved red currants on the finish. Incredibly sturdy and polished, with great structure, balance, and breed. A class act all the way. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot. Tasted at product consultant tasting. Now-2018.
93     $84.00 (#564963)     LCBO Direct     (Licensee Price: $79.80)

Domaine de Chevalier 2006,Pessac-Léognan AOC, Bordeaux, France: Brilliant, dark-opaque ruby colour. Starting off toasty, with beautiful, elegant aromas of fresh mocha intermixed with black cherries, red currants, blackberries, graphite, earth, vanilla, and spice. Decidedly complex and very clean, boasting marvellous fruit, well integrated tannins, balanced acidity, and a refined, enduring hint of black currants and (just) a trace of mocha on the finish. Truly impressive, elegant, structured, and polished. 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, and 4% Cabernet Franc. Tasted twice. Now-2018. 93     $68.00 (#564096)     Noble Estates Wines & Spirits     (Licensee Price: $64.60)

Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste 2006,Pauillac AOC, Bordeaux, France: Brilliant, dark-opaque ruby colour. Toasty, with alluring aromas of fresh mocha and red currants, giving way to elegant blackberries, plums, dark cherries, earth, vanilla, and spice. Complex and very clean, displaying beautiful, well structured fruit, firm, yet polished tannins, balanced acidity, and an remarkable hint of toasty red currants on the finish. Indubitably refined, with very fine structure, balance, and breed. Indeed, this is what great Pauillac all about. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, and 3% Cabernet Franc. Tasted twice. Now-2018.
92+     $85.00 (#564302)     LCBO Direct     (Licensee Price: $80.75)

Château Léoville Poyferré 2006,St-Julien AOC, Bordeaux, France: Brilliant, dark-opaque ruby colour. Toasty, with lovely aromas of blackberried currants and mocha, switching to fresh plums (quite fragrant), blueberries, violets, earth, vanilla, and spice. Complex and extremely clean, with very elegant, tight fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, concluding with a lovely, refined hint of blackberried plums on the finish. Elegant and stylish, at the same time very firm and reserved. Definitely for the cellar. 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, and 6% Petit Verdot. Tasted twice. Now-2018.
91++     $99.00 (#565028)     LCBO Direct     (Licensee Price: $94.05)

Château Clerc Milon 2006,Pauillac AOC, Bordeaux, France: Brilliant, dark-opaque ruby colour. Intensely toasty, with inviting aromas of elegant mocha, red currants and plums, blackberries, cherries, earth, vanilla, and spice. Beautifully complex and clean, with lovely fruit, finely integrated tannins, balanced acidity, and a delightful hint of red currants on the finish. Very finely executed, with commendable elegance, balance, and polish. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot, and 6% Cabernet Franc. Tasted twice. Now-2016+.
91     $62.00 (#564492)     Noble Estates Wines & Spirits     (Licensee Price: $58.90)

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Julian Hitner's Sommelier Selects Report (January 30, 2010)
Vintages Presents: Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux - the 2007 Vintage

As a liquid lesson in humbleness, our attention turns to the ‘07 vintage. A lot has been said of this year. For most of us, it serves as yet another reminder that some vintages are better than others, that sometimes we must simply stay away from certain years and focus our cellar space (and wallets) on other winegrowing regions. And after spending three hours last Sunday, January 24th at the Four Seasons Hotel, where just over seventy members of the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux presented their ’07 wares, this was precisely the conclusion I reached.

     Believe me when I tell you: 2007 is an extremely different vintage from 2006, 2005, or even 2004. Having tasted around such forty wines last Sunday (not to mention all the ‘07s I tasted in London last November), there is little doubt in my mind that, as enthusiasts, we must be cautious about what we choose to purchase from the ’07 vintage. While many of them are unquestionably well crafted and display good forwardness of style and fruit, there are simply too many wines that seem to lack the necessary tannic structure and ripeness for long-term viability.

     To digress for a moment, this is not to suggest that I didn’t have a great deal of fun in tasting these wines. Far from it, it was wonderful to see so many enthusiasts under one roof! Aside from my father and a few family friends, a couple of my dearest sommelier ‘comrades at arms’ were also in attendance; and we all had a marvellous time. Thus, we were all greatly annoyed at the fact that so many tables began to run out of wine before the event had concluded. As a result, I was unable to taste all the wines that I wanted (such as Château Climens). What’s worse, I even hear that some guests went up to Vintages staff to complain, which is entirely understandable. After all, how can people properly enjoy a wine tasting when tables keep running out of wine? An even sadder part about the complainants is that most of them were probably still relatively sober when they voiced their concerns.

     Returning to the matter at hand, there is little question that 2007 is something of a mixed bag for the movers and shakers of Bordeaux, with most of the wines costing a great deal more than they should. In any event, for my part I was most impressed with the whites, the Sauternes, and the reds from St-Emilion, Margaux, and Pauillac. Of the very former, it was indeed no easy task to select my top choices. Nonetheless, from a standpoint of absolute quality, my top selection is the 2007 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc, Pessac-Léognan AOC (94/100, $124.00): superbly executed, with exquisite scents of waxy-poached pears and quince, beautiful structure, vibrant acidity, brilliant complexity, and long-term aging potential. However, for almost forty dollars less, the 2007 Château Malartic-Lagravière, Pessac-Léognan AOC (93/100, $84.00) is a superlative runner-up, offering brilliantly refined scents of lemon citrus and quince (among other aromatics), beautiful elegance, structure, grace, and balance.

     For reds, the pickings are a lot more varied, with some appellations performing noticeably better than others. From last Sunday, my favourite goes to the 2007 Château Figeac, St-Emilion Grand Cru AOC (94/100, $115.00): superbly delicious and elegant, offering beautiful aromas of toasted mocha intermixed with currants and spice, remarkable structure, balance, complexity, and depth. From the Left Bank, my top choice is the 2007 Château Lynch-Bages, Pauillac AOC (93/100, $95.00): classically styled, with beautiful, elegant aromas of mocha and currants, as well as refinement of structure, balance, and style.

     Unfortunately, I had only enough time to (properly) sample just one of the stickies, but the one I enjoyed was certainly memorable: the 2007 Château de Fargues, Sauternes AOC (95/100, $95.00). Exceptional in virtually every respect, the ’07 de Fargues boasts beautifully refined scents of nutted lemon citrus and apricots, with outstanding elegance, vibrant acidity, remarkable complexity, and superlative style -- it may even merit a few extra points.

     In the end however, it goes without saying that one must be careful when selecting wines from such a difficult vintage; and 2007 was a very challenging year. Granted, it has been a very long time since great claret was considered cheap, but hopefully, if enough people only stick with the most reasonably priced wines (even in the premium brackets), the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux shall be offered a liquid lesson in humbleness. Judging by the prices for 2008, it would seem that at least a few of them did.

Here are my top wines from the Union de Grand Crus de Bordeaux Tasting Event (licensee prices are those if purchased in LCBO stores):

White Wines:

Domaine de Chevalier (Blanc) 2007, Pessac-Léognan AOC, Bordeaux, France: From one of the most respected (and underrated) estates in the Graves. Starbright, light straw-lime colour. Toasty, with intense, immensely elegant scents of waxy-poached pears, dried quince, lemon, citrus brioche, and the faintest hint of nuts and spice. Remarkably complex and clean, boasting brilliant fruit, vibrant acidity, and a refined, lingering hint of nutted citrus lemon on the finish. Superbly executed, with beautiful structure, elegance, and balance. 85% Sauvignon Blanc and 15% Sémillon. A top choice for collectors and fine wine lists, alike. Now-2018.
94     $124.00 (#99531)     LCBO Direct     (Licensee Price: $109.25)

Château Malartic-Lagravière (Blanc) 2007, Pessac-Léognan AOC, Bordeaux, France: One of the finest white wines ever produced by this estate. Starbright, light straw-lime colour. Toasty, with brilliant, refined scents of lemon citrus and quince, switching to poached pears, apricots, dried hazelnuts, and a hint of brioche and spice. Complex and extremely clean, with wonderful fruit, vibrant acidity, ending with a refined, staying hint of poached, citrus-infused pears on the finish. Incredibly graceful, with beautiful structure, elegance, and balance. A real beauty. The vineyard consists of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Sémillon. Now-2016.
93     $85.00 (#102772)     LCBO Direct     (Licensee Price: $80.75)

Red Wines:

Château Figeac 2007,St-Emilion Grand Cru AOC, Bordeaux, France: Unquestion-ably one of the finest red wines from the strenuous ’07 vintage. Brilliant, dark-opaque ruby colour, displaying intense, elegant aromas of toast and mocha intermixed with fresh red currants, roasted blackberries, plums, graphite, and a delightful hint of earth, vanilla, and spice. Decidedly complex and clean, boasting superb fruit, firm tannins (a rarity in ’07), balanced acidity, and a refined, lasting hint of red currants and (moderate) mocha on the finish. Brilliantly crafted, with first-rate structure, balance, polish, and breed. 40% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 25% Cabernet Franc. Matured in 100% new oak barriques. Ideal for wealthy collectors and ultra-fine wine lists. Now-2018+.
94     $115.00 (#99606)     LCBO Direct     (Licensee Price: $109.25)

Château Canon-La-Gaffelière 2007,St-Emilion Grand Cru AOC, Bordeaux, France: From the estate of Stephan Von Neipperg, one of the more eccentric, kind-hearted men on the Right Bank. Brilliant, dark opaque ruby colour. Toasty, with very elegant, alluring aromas of fresh mocha and plums, currants, blackberries, earth, vanilla, and a hint of graham crackers and spice. Complex, clean, and deliciously smooth, displaying great fruit, fine tannins (almost supple), balanced acidity, and a beautiful hint of mocha and plums on the finish. Seamless, approachable, and delicious, offering great structure, balance, and smoothness. 55% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Matured in 90% new oak barriques. Now-2017.
93     $90.00 (#102327)     LCBO Direct     (Licensee Price: $85.50)

Château La Conseillante 2007,Pomerol AOC, Bordeaux, France: A superb performer in a very challenging vintage. Brilliant, dark-opaque ruby colour. Toasty, with very inviting, youthful aromas of fresh (moderate) mocha, red plums, earth, graham crackers, vanilla, and spice. Complex and extremely clean, with great fruit, finely integrated tannins, balanced acidity, and a very elegant hint of red currants and mocha on the finish. Beautifully crafted, displaying a great sense of balance, structure, and style – endearingly lightweight for the year. 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc. A top choice for collectors and ultra-fine wine lists. Now-2018.
93     $139.00 (#98517)     LCBO Direct     (Licensee Price: $132.05)

Château Lynch-Bages 2007,Pauillac AOC, Bordeaux, France: Textbook Pauillac in virtually every respect. Brilliant, dark-opaque ruby colour, with beautiful, elegant aromas of well-moderated toast, mocha, currants, plums, blackberries, ‘rugged’ earth, vanilla, and spice. Complex and remarkably clean, displaying firm, yet refined fruit and tannins, balanced acidity, concluding with a lovely hint of (slightly) reserved currants and plums on the finish. Precise and refined, with great structure, balance, and polish. Another first-rate wine from one of the most under-classified wines in the Médoc. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot. Now-2018.
93     $95.00 (#98640)     LCBO Direct     (Licensee Price: $90.25)

Château Pontet-Canet 2007,Pauillac AOC, Bordeaux, France: Another marvellous offering from yet another perennially under-classified estate. Brilliant, dark-opaque ruby colour, exhibiting immensely alluring aromas of powerful, yet well-moderated toast and mocha, currants, plums, black cherries, graham crackers, earth, vanilla, and spice. Complex and intrinsically clean, boasting deliciously smooth fruit, fine tannins, balanced acidity, ending off with a soft, Pauillac-based hint of mocha and plums on the finish. Quite a rich, layered style of Left Bank claret, held together by a beautiful sense of structure, balance, and breed. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot. Now-2018.
93     $105.00 (#100776)     LCBO Direct     (Licensee Price: $99.75)

Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 2007,Pauillac AOC, Bordeaux, France: A rewarding wine from a very difficult year. Brilliant, dark-opaque ruby colour. Toasty, with classic, refined scents of mocha and currants, plums, graphite, graham crackers, earth, vanilla, and spice. Complex and extremely clean, offering beautiful, elegant fruit, firm, yet approachable tannins, balanced acidity, and a classy hint of reserved currants on the finish. Stylish, well structured, and elegant, displaying that textbook St-Julien-like character enthusiasts have come to know and love from this particular estate. 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot, and 2% Cabernet Franc. Now-2018.
92+     $139.00 (#102129)     LCBO Direct     (Licensee Price: $132.05)

Château Rauzan-Ségla 2007,Margaux AOC, Bordeaux, France: Brilliant, dark-opaque ruby colour. Toasty, with refined aromas of red currants, plums, leafy black cherries, mocha, and a hint of roasted meat, earth, vanilla, and spice. Complex and very clean, with lovely fruit, fine tannins, balanced acidity, and a delightful hint of red plums and toasted mocha on the finish. Elegant and very finely crafted, with great structure, balance, and breed. 59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35.5% Merlot, and 5.5% Petit Verdot. Now-2017.
92     $90.00 (#98491)     LCBO Direct     (Licensee Price: $85.50)

Château Labégorce 2007,Margaux AOC, Bordeaux, France: Brilliant, dark ruby colour. Toasty, with refined scents of red currants and plums, leafy black cherries (just the right intensity), violets, and a hint of mocha, vanilla, and spice. Complex and very clean, with lovely firm fruit and tannins, balanced acidity, and an elegant hint of red currants and violets on the finish. Beautifully crafted, with very fine structure, balance, and polish. The vineyard consists of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot. Now-2015.
90     $36.00 (#580696)     LCBO Direct     (Licensee Price: $34.20)

Sweet Wines:

Château de Fargues 2007 (Barrel Sample), Sauternes AOC, Bordeaux, France: Superlative Sauternes from the legendary Lur-Saluces family (former owners of Château d’Yquem). Starbright, light-medium yellow colour. Exhibiting gorgeous aromas of nutted lemon citrus and apricots, giving way to intense honeysuckle, toast, marzipan, and spice. Complex and incredibly clean, boasting beautiful fruit (not in the least bit cloying), vibrant acidity, and a particularly refined hint of nutted, lemony honeysuckle and apricots on the finish. Outstandingly elegant, with extraordinary balance, roundness, and style. A must-have for wealthy collectors and ultra-fine wine lists. 80% Sémillon and 20% Sauvignon Blanc. Now-2035.
95     $169.00 (#98368)     LCBO Direct     (Licensee Price: $160.55)

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 Julian Hitner's Sommelier Selects Report (January 23, 2010)
Learning About Wine & January 23rd Release

f there is one thing I have come to realize after six years of unremitting studying and tasting, it is that I will never be able to learn all there is to know about the ‘institution of wine.’ In short, there are too many wines to taste, too many estates to visit, and too many facts to memorize. Ask any sommelier (or wine writer), and they will tell you the same thing: not for want of trying, one can spend a lifetime learning about wine, only to realize that what one has learned is either incomplete or has become distortedly out of date with the passage of time.

     On the other hand, not dissimilar to an avid scholar attempting to read every single piece of brilliant literature ever created, it goes without saying that it is the pursuit of wine knowledge that is far more important (and rewarding) than total assimilation. But how does a fledgling sommelier (or enthusiast) actually go about becoming more knowledgeable about wine? What is the best process? Is it ceaseless tasting? Is it endless reading? Where does one start?

     From what I have discovered, a sommelier setting out to establish an even greater understanding of wine ought to approach the task in a three-pronged mode of attack. The first is to purchase the most up-to-date books on various wine-related subjects (many sommeliers and wine writers have old books that can become horrifically out of date, especially those concerning up-and-coming winegrowing regions).

My top three suggestions: (1) Hugh Johnson’s Wine Companion -- perfect for learning about wineries and people; (2) Hugh Johnson’s and Jancis Robinson’s The World Atlas of Wine -- critical in learning about winegrowing regions; and (3) Oz Clarke’s Grapes and Wines -- invaluable for learning about grape varietals and their characteristics. As a supplement, Decanter magazine is also highly recommended.

     Of course, there are countless other works out there that may delve more specifically into a particular topic. My advice is to use caution. Before you know it, you might end up accumulating a whole library of wine books you may never read! Trust me on this one: there is little to be gained by having books you do not even look at. Better to have a few that you read all the time and use all the money you’ve saved on a few premium bottles.

     Along with obtaining the best wine books, it is imperative for a sommelier to taste as many different wines as possible. This allows you to build up (and enhance) a ‘tasting repertoire’ of sorts for examining different types of wines. To this end, it is always recommended that you record your notes in a journal or computer file, so that you can look back on your impressions at a later date to compare them with more recent examinations. This is not always a pleasant task, writing about every wine you taste. For one thing, you need to know what to look for. Once again, each of the three books mentioned above have plenty of information on how to properly examine, taste, serve, and store wine. After all, even the best sommeliers can use some extra written consultation now and then.

     The final part of becoming more knowledgeable about wine is to keep your priorities simple. As an example, it can be an extraordinarily expensive proposition for a sommelier to set up (and maintain) a moderately sized wine cellar in just a couple of months, especially if you have a high-end restaurant and fine wine list to manage! However, this does not mean that you have to taste any less. The trick is to attend as many reasonably priced wine tastings as possible, along with (now and then) setting out to explore the world’s fine winegrowing regions. Of course, the nature of these expeditions shall differ from person to person, but experience has taught me that it is almost always time well spent. In addition, local wine seminars can be an excellent way of picking up information on specific types of wine that might not even be sold in LCBO stores, which, as a sommelier, can provide you with a leg up on the competition in acquiring the best wines for your list.

    In the end, then, there are all sorts of ways for sommeliers to expand their knowledge about wine. The key thing is to employ the methods I have described on a regular basis. The ‘institution of wine’ is a life’s pursuit, and from what I have learned thus far, it is entirely worth it.

The January 23rd Release:

     The theme for the January 23rd Vintages release is ‘Argentina’s Peak Performers; plus a toast to Robbie Burns!’ For this release, I am delighted to offer a rather eclectic list of suggestions. For whites, my top choice for sommeliers (and enthusiasts) is the Chavet 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, Menetou-Salon Blanc AOC, France (88/100, $18.95), a lovely crisp white from the Loire Valley. For sommeliers, it introduces guests to a relatively unknown AOC that has been making ardent improvements over the past several years -- after all, there is more to the world of grassy-zesty Sauvignons than the whites of Marlborough!

     For reds, my number one suggestion is the Quinta do Infantado 2007, Douro DOC, Portugal(89+/100, $23.95); a beautiful bargain if you ask me, displaying inviting aromas of brambling plums and currants, fine fruit and tannins, balance, complexity, and regional character. Once again, I cannot stress enough the extent to which the winegrowing nation of Portugal has improved on their wares; and many of them taste so different from those of the rest of the world! Another beautiful suggestion is the Jackson-Triggs 2007 Cabernet-Merlot, ‘Delaine Vineyard’, Niagara Peninsula VQA (89/100, $22.95): toasty, with lovely scents of earthy plums and currants, fine fruit and tannins, structure, balance, and polish. Always a pleasure to see good craftsmanship on the local front.

Here are my top suggestions from the January 23rd Vintages release (licensee prices are those if purchased from LCBO outlets):

White Wines:

Chavet 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, Menetou-Salon Blanc AOC, Loire, France: Starbright, pale straw colour. Revealing lovely scents of grassy lemon citrus, switching to light apricots, white grapefruit, and a hint of spice. Clean, with crisp, refreshing fruit, balanced acidity, and a hint of grassy-zesty lemon on the finish. Very finely crafted, with delightful style, vibrancy, and balance. Now-2011.
88     $18.95 (#525048)   Tastevin Selections    (Licensee Price: $18.00)

Mulderbosch 2009 Sauvignon Blanc, Western Cape WO, South Africa: Starbright, pale straw colour. Extremely Marlborough-like, with lovely grassy gooseberries, lemony lime, and a hint of white grapefruit, fresh herbs, and asparagus. Clean, with crisp, zesty fruit, balanced acidity, extending very nicely onto the finish. Solid Sauvignon, with very good vibrancy and balance. Screwcap closure. Now-2011. 88     $18.95 (#933424)   Abcon International    (Licensee Price: $18.00)

Real Sitio Ventosilla 2008 Verdejo, ‘Prado Rey’, Rueda DO, Spain: Brilliant, pale straw colour. Slightly leafy at the outset, with fresh lemon, green apples, and a hint of fresh herbs. Clean, with crisp fruit, balanced acidity, and a hint of lemon citrus on the finish. Very refreshing, with good balance and style. Now-2010+.
87+     $13.95 (#146001)   Noble Estates Wines & Spirits    (Licensee Price: $13.25)

Surani 2008 Fiano, ‘Pietrariccia’, IGT Fiano Salento, Puglia, Italy: Brilliant, light straw colour. Rather delicate when examined: revealing light lemony melon, white flowers, green apples, and straw. Clean, with light, pleasant fruit, balanced acidity, and a hint of ‘mellow’ lemon on the finish. Light and lovely, with good balance and freshness. Now-2010+.
87     $16.95 (#159582)   Authentic Wine & Spirits    (Licensee Price: $16.10)

Red Wines:

Quinta do Infantado 2007,Douro DOC, Portugal: Brilliant, dense purple-ruby colour. Toasty, with inviting aromas of brambling plums and currants (slightly baked), blackberries, and a hint of leathery earth, mocha, and spice. Complex and clean, with fine fruit and tannins, balanced acidity, and a beautiful hint of brambling plums on the finish. Quite elegant and finely crafted, with lovely structure, balance, and regional character. Nicely priced. Now-2015.
89+     $23.95 (#95158)   MCO Wines & Spirits    (Licensee Price: $22.75)

Clos de Los Siete 2007,Mendoza, Argentina: Brilliant, dense purple-ruby colour. Toasty, with intense aromas of dark mocha, giving way to fresh currants, plums, black leather, earth, vanilla, and spice. Clean, with good fruit, fine tannins, slightly milder acidity, ending off with a solid, well-structured finish. Very well made, with great structure, balance (despite 14.5% alcohol), and overall polish, perhaps even a trace of refinement. A blend of 48% Malbec, 28% Merlot, 12% Syrah, and 12% Cabernet Sauvignon; aged for eleven months in two-thirds new French oak. Now-2014+.
89     $23.95 (#622571)   Philippe Dandurand Wines Ltd.    (Licensee Price: $22.75)

Jackson-Triggs 2007 Cabernet/Merlot,  ‘Delaine Vineyard’,Niagara Peninsula VQA: Brilliant, dark-opaque ruby colour. Toasty, with lovely aromas of earthy plums (slightly meaty), currants, blackberries, and a hint of leathery mocha and spice. Complex and clean, with fine fruit and tannins, balanced acidity, and a lovely hint of reserved plums on the finish. Splendid wine, with great structure, balance, and polish. Very nicely priced. Now-2014+.
89     $22.95 (#989269)   Vincor International    (Licensee Price: $21.80)

Piedras de San Pedro (Crianza) 2005 ‘Loculto’,Ribera del Duero DO, Spain: Brilliant, dense ruby colour. Toasty, with alluring aromas of milk chocolate, baked currants and plums, leather, nutted coconut, and a hint of vanilla and spice. Clean, with beautiful fruit, supple tannins, balanced acidity, and a lengthy hint of smooth mocha and plums on the finish. Deliciously Parkerized, with lovely structure, balance, and length. A real bargain. Now-2014.
89     $18.95 (#147926)   Oland Speciality Beer    (Licensee Price: $18.00)

Catena 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon,Mendoza, Argentina: Brilliant, dense purple-ruby colour. Toasty, with lovely aromas of baked dark mocha and currants, plums, and a hint of violets, vanilla, and spice. Clean, with fine fruit, firm tannins, milder acidity, and a satisfying hint of purple plums on the finish. Beautiful wine, with good structure, polish, and balance. Nicely priced. Now-2014.
88     $19.95 (#985002)   Calibrium International    (Licensee Price: $18.95)

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Julian Hitner's Sommelier Selects Report (January 23, 2010)
Decanter Fine Wine Encounter (Event Date: November 21, 2009)

   If I were asked to name some of the greatest wine cities in the world, rest assured I could assemble a ‘top ten’ list in a matter of seconds -- we wine commentators have peculiar talents. Most likely, New York City and London would occupy (interchangeably) the top two spots, followed by the likes of Paris, San Francisco, Melbourne, and so on. Sorry, Toronto, but we still remain in a different league, though we are progressing quickly.

     On this occasion, our attention turns to London, home of the annual Decanter World Fine Wine Encounter. Each year, I cross the pond to attend this most remarkable of tastings (typically held at the five-star Landmark Hotel), featuring the wines of several dozen first-rate estates. With an eminently reasonable entry fee of £40 for an all-day pass (tickets available online), it goes without saying that the overseas journey is well worth the effort. This past year, on Saturday 21 November, there were over 100 wineries in attendance and several hundred different wines to taste. For a sommelier or enthusiast, what could be finer?

     As stated previously, for tastings of this size, I have often found it best to stick with a particular type of wine, so as to best avoid wandering aimlessly from table to table. Thus, in anticipation of the ’07 Bordeaux release (the LCBO shall be releasing ’07 ‘futures’ in the spring), I largely stuck with youthful claret for the afternoon, only later moving on to various favourites (to be discussed later). Having tasted around a dozen different wines (mostly Classed Growths), there is little doubt that 2007 is an extremely different vintage from 2006, 2005, or even 2004. On the whole, the ’07s tend to be much fruitier and more forward in style, oftentimes less powerful, and almost always less extracted (thank goodness) on the palate and finish. Indeed, if the prices weren’t so outrageous, 2007 could be considered a most approachable vintage.

     Of the ‘07s tasted, my favourite was the Château Boyd-Cantenac, Margaux AOC (92/100), an unmistakably lovely wine of which owner-winemaker Lucien Guillemet has every reason to be pleased: dark ruby colour, with lovely earthy, slightly raspberried currants; complex, clean, with beautiful fruit, fine tannins, and a well-structured finish. Simply delightful. Other notables were the Château Clerc Milon, Pauillac AOC (91+/100), precise and refined; the Château d’Armailhac, Pauillac AOC (91/100), slightly more rounded, yet equally elegant; and the Château Beychevelle, St-Julien AOC (91/100), impressive and stylish (see notes below for more information).

     Having completed my mini-2007 claret odyssey, I next ventured over to the expectedly crowded table of unofficial (yet impeccable) ‘Super Second’ Château Palmer. Speaking with Director of Development Bernard de Laage de Meux, it was a pleasure to examine three different vintages of this perennially under-classified estate. Indeed, it was difficult to choose a favourite, but it seemed to me that the 2004 (94/100) and the 1996 (94/100) were the two top performers, only slightly edging the 2001 (93/100) for the afternoon’s top honours. The former, prodigiously modern yet refined, stood in brilliant contrast (and complementation) to the ‘96, maturing beautifully yet a shade more reserved. The ’01, also wonderfully crafted, seemed almost a combination of the other two: aging very slowly though most certainly crafted in the modern style, while retaining that delightful Palmer elegance and grace that can only be found in a ‘sleeper vintage’ like 2001. My compliments to Monsieur Bernard for his generous insight and pourings.

     Leaving clarets behind, my now semi-aimless wanderings – after all, one cannot be expected to use the spittoon all the time – eventually brought me to the table of Diamond Creek Vineyards, one of the most terroir-respecting wineries in the entire Napa Valley. Located on Diamond Mountain, one of the most northerly AVAs in the valley, the production here centres around the crafting of three different wines from three distinct vineyard sites, each based on the specific characteristics of their soils. On this occasion, the 2006 ‘Volcanic Hill’ (93/100) was a personal favourite: beautifully fragrant, complex, and elegant, not to mention downright delicious. Next came the 2006 ‘Red Rock Terrace’ (92++/100): more hedonistic, yet endearingly complex, lengthy, and refined. Finally, the 2006 ‘Gravelly Meadow’ (92/100): definitely the most Bordelaise, while retaining very similar aromatics and flavour characteristics to the ‘Red Rock Terrace.’ In 2006, founder and owner Al Brounstein passed away, and his widow Boots now runs the winery.

     Nearing the end of the afternoon, I finally found myself at the table of Chryseia, a magnificent joint venture in the Douro Valley between former Château Cos D’Estournel owner Bruno Prats and the Symington wine family (owners of Dow’s, Graham’s, and Warre’s, among other things). Tasting the 2007 ‘Chryseia’ (93/100), I am once again reminded about the incredible progress Douro winemakers have made with the quality and durability of their table wines: vibrant, stylish, beautifully structured, and undeniably delicious. In fact, I would go so far as to suggest that the ’07 ‘Chryseia’ is probably the finest wine this estate has yet to produce. As an additional indication, the 2007 ‘Post Scriptum’ (90/100), the ‘second wine’ of the estate, is also no slouch: forward, well structured, and very lovely in its own right.

    And so, if you haven’t already gone onto the Decanter website to look up the next tasting, I shan’t keep you waiting. Who knows? We might see each other next year in London, arguably one of the top two most exciting wine cities in the world.

Here are my top wines from the Decanter World Fine Wine Encounter (licensee prices are those if purchased in LCBO stores):

Red Wines:

France:

Château Palmer 1996,Margaux AOC, Bordeaux, France: Brilliant, dark garnet colour. Intrinsically cedary at the outset, giving way to a beautiful bouquet of dried red currants and plums, cigar box, and a hint of tealeaves, earth, and spice. Wonderfully complex and clean, displaying still-vibrant fruit, very fine tannins, balanced acidity, and a remarkable hint of elegant cedary plums on the finish. Extremely well aged, balanced, and refined. A truly beautiful, mature claret. Definitely at its peak. 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot. Now-2016+.
94     CURRENTLY UNAVAILABLE     LCBO Direct

Château Palmer 2004,Margaux AOC, Bordeaux, France: Brilliant, dark-opaque ruby-red colour. Toasty, with intensely alluring aromas of earthy mocha, currants, plums, blackberries, light violets, vanilla, and spice. Beautifully complex and clean, boasting exceptional fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, and a wonderful hint of refined currants and light, delicate mocha on the finish. Rather modern in style, nonetheless extremely well structured, balanced, and refined. A real beauty. 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 47% Merlot, and 6% Petit Verdot. A superb wine for collectors, selling for only $155 (when it was available) at LCBO stores. Now-2020.
94     CURRENTLY UNAVAILABLE     LCBO Direct

Château Palmer 2001,Margaux AOC, Bordeaux, France: Brilliant, dark red currant colour. Toasty and quite cedary, with beautiful, polished aromas of light mocha, red currants, dried plums and cherries, earth, and a hint of vanilla and spice. Complex and remarkably clean, boasting delightfully pure fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, and a lovely, lasting hint of delicate cedary currants on the finish. Simply wonderful, with beautiful structure, balance, and breed. Aging very nicely, though definitely a sleeper. 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot. Now-2018.
93     $265.00 (#731513)   LCBO Direct     (Licensee Price: $251.75)

‘Alter Ego’ 2004 (Second Wine of Château Palmer),Margaux AOC, Bordeaux, France: Brilliant, dark-opaque ruby colour. Toasty, with inviting scents of raspberried black currants and mocha (typical youthful Margaux aromatics -- at least for me), earthy plums, graphite, vanilla, and spice. Delightfully complex and clean, boasting beautiful fruit, fine tannins, balanced acidity, ending with a lovely, lingering hint of (slightly) raspberried currants on the finish. Very impressive, balanced, and indisputably stylish. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Merlot. Now-2016.
92     CURRENTLY UNAVAILABLE     LCBO Direct

Château Boyd-Cantenac 2007,Margaux AOC, Bordeaux, France: Brilliant, dark ruby colour. Toasty, with textbook Margaux aromas of (slightly) raspberried currants, plums, blackberries, and a hint of violets, vanilla, and spice. Complex and clean, with beautiful fruit, fine tannins, balanced acidity, concluding with a delicate, refined hint of raspberried currants on the finish. Textbook Margaux terroir, with first-rate balance, structure, and refinement. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, and 7% Petit Verdot. Now-2018.
92     CURRENTLY UNAVAILABLE     LCBO Direct

Château Clerc Milon 2007,Pauillac AOC, Bordeaux, France: Brilliant, dark ruby colour. Toasty, with elegant scents of black currants and (moderate) mocha, leafy black cherries and plums, earth, and a hint of vanilla and spice. Complex and very clean, with beautiful fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, and a lovely hint of elegant red currants on the finish. Precise and refined, with marvellous structure, balance, and style. 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot, and 7% Cabernet Franc. Now-2017.
91+     $63 (#99325 -- Futures Price)   LCBO Direct     (Licensee Price: $59.85)

Château d’Armailhac 2007,Pauillac AOC, Bordeaux, France: Brilliant, dark ruby colour. Toasty, with lovely aromas of light red currants and mocha, switching to fresh plums, earth, and a hint of vanilla and spice. Complex and clean, with beautiful fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, and a refined hint of red plums on the finish. Delightful, approachable Pauillac, with great balance, structure, and elegance. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot. Now-2016.
91     $54 (#99481 -- Futures Price)   LCBO Direct     (Licensee Price: $51.30)

Château Beychevelle 2007,St-Julien AOC, Bordeaux, France: Brilliant, dark-opaque ruby colour. Toasty, with alluring notes of red currants and plums, switching to moderate mocha, black cherries, and a hint of vanilla and spice. Quite complex and clean, with very fine fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, and a beautiful hint of plumy currants on the finish. Very impressive and stylish, with splendid structure, balance, and polish; though perhaps just a shade extracted. 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot. Now-2016.
91     $68 (#98301 -- Futures Price)   LCBO Direct     (Licensee Price: $64.60)

Château Bellevue 2007,St-Emilion Grand Cru AOC, Bordeaux, France: Brilliant, dark-opaque ruby colour. Toasty, with beautiful aromas of fresh mocha, plums, currants, graham crackers, earth, vanilla, and spice. Complex and clean, with fine fruit and tannins, balanced acidity, ending with a lovely, lingering hint of fresh mocha and plums on the finish. Very flattering (and extracted), with great structure, balance, and flavour. 98% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc. Now-2015.
90     CURRENTLY UNAVAILABLE     LCBO Direct

Château Le Crock 2007,St-Estèphe AOC, Bordeaux, France: Brilliant, dark-opaque ruby colour. Toasty, with lovely notes of earthy red currants, plums, light blackberries, and a hint of vanilla and spice. Complex and very clean, with beautiful fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, and a reserved hint of red currants on the finish. Decidedly well crafted, with great structure, balance, and a trace of breed. The Le Crock vineyard consists of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot. Now-2015+.
90     CURRENTLY UNAVAILABLE

Château Lagrange 2007,St-Julien, Bordeaux, France: Brilliant, dark-opaque ruby colour. Toasty, with lovely scents of leafy black currants and plums, black cherries, and a hint of earth, vanilla, and spice. Complex and clean, with fine fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, and a delightful hint of fresh currants on the finish. Solid St-Julien, with very fine structure, balance, and character; though essentially a lightweight. 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 7% Petit Verdot. Now-2015.
89     CURRENTLY UNAVAILABLE     LCBO Direct

Portugal:

Chryseia 2007, Douro DOC, Portugal: Brilliant, opaque purple-ruby colour. Toasty and very tight at present, with intensely alluring aromas of dark mocha, black plums, currants, black cherries, earth, vanilla, and spice. Complex and extremely clean, with                        truly great fruit, fine tannins, balanced acidity, ending with a lovely, very lengthy hint of smooth mocha and plums on the finish. Wonderful wine, with superb balance, structure, elegance, and length. 50% Touriga Nacional and 50% Touriga Franca, with 35,600 bottles made. Now-2018.
93     CURRENTLY UNAVAILABLE     Churchill Cellars

‘Post Scriptum’ 2007 (Second Wine of Chryseia), Douro DOC, Portugal: Brilliant, dark-opaque ruby colour. Toasty, with alluring scents of fresh mocha, red currants, plums, blueberries, graham crackers, and a hint of earth, vanilla, and spice. Complex and clean, with beautiful fruit, fine tannins, balanced acidity, and a lovely, lingering hint of moderate mocha and plums on the finish. Superb ‘second wine,’ with great structure, balance, and style. 40% Tinta Roriz, 35% Touriga Franca, 20% Tinta Barroca, and 5% other varietals. Now-2015.
90     CURRENTLY UNAVAILABLE     Churchill Cellars

USA – California:

Diamond Creek Vineyards 2006, ‘Volcanic Hill’, Napa Valley, California: Brilliant, dark-opaque ruby colour. Toasty, with beautifully fragrant aromas of mocha and currants, giving way to fresh plums, bluish blackberries, earth, leather, vanilla, and spice. Complex and very clean, displaying delicious fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, ending with beautifully lengthy hint of mocha and plums on the finish. Extremely satisfying, with great structure, forwardness, balance, and elegance. Predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, with a small percentage of Petit Verdot. A top bet for wealthy collectors and ultra-fine dining establishments. Now-2018.
93+     CURRENTLY UNAVAILABLE     Lifford Wine Agency

Diamond Creek Vineyards 2006, ‘Red Rock Terrace’, Napa Valley, California: Brilliant, dark-opaque ruby colour. Toasty, with intense, alluring aromas of blueberried mocha, currants, plums, graham crackers, earth, vanilla, and spice. Complex and very clean, with beautiful fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, ending with a refined, lengthy hint of mocha and plumy currants on the finish. Remarkable, more hedonistically styled wine, with great structure, balance, and heft. Predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon. Now-2016+.
92++     CURRENTLY UNAVAILABLE     Lifford Wine Agency

Diamond Creek Vineyards 2006, ‘Gravelly Meadow’, Napa Valley, California: Brilliant, dark-opaque ruby colour. Toasty, with inviting scents of fresh mocha, giving way to plumy currants, blackberries, blueberries, earth, vanilla, and spice. Complex and very clean, with great fruit (slightly reserved), firm tannins, balanced acidity, and a lasting hint of elegant mocha and plums on the finish. Undeniably impressive, with great structure, balance, and breed. The most Bordelaise of the three Diamond Creek vineyard sites. Now-2018.
92     CURRENTLY UNAVAILABLE     Lifford Wine Agency

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Julian Hitner's Sommelier Selects Report (January 8, 2010)
Wine Glasses & January 9th Vintages Release

                   As a general rule for sommeliers and enthusiasts, it is considered something of a faux pas to serve a bottle of Deutz NV ‘Brut Classique’ (92/100, $57.95) in glasses other than flutes. The reason? A wine glass crafted in the style of a ‘flute’ is believed to be the best format for enjoying Champagne (or any other sparkling wine) to its fullest. Aside from the obvious notion of modern conventions (for the flute has never been more fashionable), the minimal surface of area of a flute allows for the maximum formulation (and perpetuation) of bubbles. A greater surface area, on the other hand, would hinder this process; and this is precisely why Champagne ‘coupes’ (or ‘saucers’), such as those seen in Casablanca or Mad Men, are no longer used. After all, what is a lovely bottle of Deutz without a good fizz?

     Of course, Champagne is not the only type of wine where the type of glass used can have an extraordinary effect on the taste of the wine. Several months ago, I tasted the brilliant Château Haut-Batailley 2006, AOC Pauillac, Bordeaux (92/100, $49.00) out of several different types of glasses, from the Riedel ‘Vinum’ to the Spiegelau ‘Vino Grande.’ Once again, I was amazed at how different the same wine tasted when enjoyed out of each individual glass. In the end, the Haut-Batailley was most impressive when tasted (and consumed) out of the Riedel ‘Vinum,’ the best glass (from a personal point of view -- very important) for enhancing the wine’s aromatic, textural, and overall aesthetic components. For the record, I also tasted this same wine out of an ISO glass: not the same level of enjoyment, but unquestionably the most effective glass from an analytical point of view.

     This brings me to a related topic. From a standpoint of actual evaluation, sommeliers and critics are best advised to use ISO glasses whenever analysing wine. Granted, there has been considerable dissension on this matter, the argument being that a speciality glass (such as the Riedel ‘Vinum Extreme’, a favourite model of mine) serves only to enhance the wine’s quality for sake of personal enjoyment; and that analysing a wine out of a basic ISO glass is unfair. On this matter, I am of the opinion that ‘analysis’ and ‘personal enjoyment’ ought to be regarded as ideally disparate components. As a wine taster and commentator, experience has taught me that an ISO glass is the most effective model for highlighting the specific features (whether positive or negative) of any given wine. This stands in direct contrast to specialty glasses, which serve only to enhance a wine’s positive traits. As a result, an otherwise poorly made wine is made out to be more impressive than it truly is. Now, from a standpoint of personal enjoyment, this might seem beneficial. However, from a viewpoint of analysis, this same wine would be giving off the wrong impressions to the taster, and would be given a higher rating as a consequence. For this very reason, I am of the opinion that ‘analysis’ and ‘personal enjoyment’ ought to be treated as ideally disparate entities.

     This being said, I would be the last person to argue that wine analysis ought to be a straightjacketed affair. There should always be room for accommodation and modification. For instance, if I were made to analyse twenty different classified growths, I would have little objection if each of the wines were presented in the same type of speciality glass. Though each of the wines’ qualities would be enhanced and their defections minimized, at least it would be a level playing field. However, for most tastings, this is usually not the case (such as at the LCBO lab, where there might be only two or three samples available of the same type of wine); and as ISO glasses are currently the most widely used glasses for purposes of evaluation, one might as well stick with what is currently in fashion, just like flutes for sparkling wine. At present, it really is the best system we have.

The January 9th Vintages Release:

     Moving on to more pressing concerns, the theme for the Vintages release this Saturday,  January 9th is ‘Great Wine, Great Value: easy on the wallet and easy to love.’ Quite frankly, there were very few wines from this release that really captured my attention. This should not come as a surprise, as most peoples’ wallets are not exactly overflowing with cash this time of year -- for one thing, Christmas does have a way of nullifying year-end bonuses.
     For whites, my top choice is the Barón de Ley 2008 Blanco (87/100, $12.95), an appealing white Rioja of good freshness and style. Though hardly comparable to the vibrantly austere white Riojas of decades past (they are virtually unobtainable anymore), this well-priced modern take on a classic ought to appeal to sommeliers (and enthusiasts) in need of a little chilly refreshment with family and friends this coming weekend.

     For reds, my number one choice is the Mitolo 2008 ‘Jester’ Cabernet Sauvignon (88/100,  $19.95), an inviting, youthful McLaren Vale wine of admirable freshness, flavour, and quality. Another solid selection is the Juan Gil 2008 Monastrell, Jumilla DO, Spain (87/100, $12.95), boasting good varietal character and flavour -- much better than the shipment the LCBO brought in several months ago.

Here are my top suggestions from the January 9th Vintages release (licensee prices are those if purchased from LCBO outlets):

White Wines:

Barón de Ley 2008 Blanco, Rioja DOCa, Spain: Starbright, pale straw colour. Starting off with leafy sea salt, switching to dried melony apples, pears, and a hint of lemon. Clean, with light, slightly sea salty fruit, balanced acidity, extending nicely onto the finish. Quite unique, balanced, and appealing -- a refreshing, modern style of white Rioja. 90% Viura and 10% Malvasia. Tasted twice. Now-2011. 87     $12.95 (#145995)   The Merchant Vintner    (Licensee Price: $12.30)

Ironstone 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, Lodi, California: Starbright, pale straw colour. Revealing attractive limy gooseberries, lemon, light herbs, and a hint of asparagus (increasingly common in New World Sauvignon). Clean, with light, zesty fruit, balanced acidity, and a hint of minerally grass on the finish. Pleasant, satisfying stuff, with decent balance and character. Tasted twice. Screwcap closure. Now-2010+. 87     $14.95 (#692350)   Lifford Agencies    (Licensee Price: $14.20)

Wild Rock 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, ‘Elevation’, Marlborough, New Zealand: Starbright, light straw colour. Displaying appealing scents of delicate grassy gooseberries and lemon, dried apricots, plus a hint of white flowers. Clean, with light, pleasantly zesty fruit, balanced acidity, and a hint of grassy pears on the finish. Also contains a tiny percentage of Viognier and Riesling. Tasted twice. Screwcap closure. Now-2010+. 87     $16.95 (#142828)   Lifford Agencies    (Licensee Price: $16.10)

Sogrape Vinhos 2008, ‘Quinta de Azevedo’, Vinho Verde DOC, Portugal: Starbright, pale straw colour. Fresh lemon citrus and green apples, plus a hint of minerally beach pebbles – straightforward, yet pleasant aromatics. Clean, with light, crisp fruit, balanced acidity, and a hint of stony lemon citrus on the finish. Quite refreshing. 70% Loureiro and 30% Pedernã. Tasted twice. Now-2010.
86     $11.95 (#727115)   Lifford Agencies    (Licensee Price: $11.35)

Red Wines:

Chapel Hill 2007 Shiraz,McLaren Vale, Australia: Bright, dense purple-ruby colour. Toasty, with fresh black plums, moderate eucalyptus, currants, and a hint of mint, vanilla, and spice. Clean, with good, soft fruit, supple tannins, mild acidity, and a lingering hint of smooth purple plums on the finish. Very nicely done, with good freshness, balance, and flavour. Aged for 18 months in 34% new (300 litre) French and American oak hogsheads. Tasted twice. Screwcap closure. Now-2014.
88     $22.95 (#743989)   Charton Hobbs Inc.     (Licensee Price: $21.80)

Mitolo 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon,‘Jester’,McLaren Vale, Australia: Bright, dense ruby colour.  Toasty, with intense eucalyptus, plums and red currants (slightly baked), mocha, dark violets, and spice. Clean, with very good fruit, supple tannins, mild acidity, and a lingering hint of smooth plums on the finish. Nicely crafted, with good structure, balance, and style. Harvested at around 70 hl/ha and aged for 9 months in 2-4 year-old French oak. Tasted twice. Screwcap closure. Now-2014.
88     $19.95 (#43224)   Lifford Agencies     (Licensee Price: $18.95)

Rui José Xavier Soares 2005, ‘Mimo’,Douro DOC, Portugal: Brilliant, dark-dense ruby colour. Toasty, with lovely fresh mocha and plums, blackberries, blueberries, and spice. Clean, with fine fruit and tannins, balanced acidity, and a hint of fresh plums on the finish. Nicely crafted, with good balance and regional character. A blend of ‘several traditional grape varieties.’ Tasted twice. Now-2012+. 87++     $17.95 (#147918)   Connoisseur Wines & Spirits     (Licensee Price: $17.05)

Juan Gil 2008 Monastrell,Jumilla DO, Spain: Brilliant, dark ruby colour. Starting off with traces of leathery plums, switching to herbal (dried) black currants (slightly baked) and spice. Clean, with soft, appealing herbaceous fruit, approachable tannins, balanced acidity, and a hint of dried leathery plums on the finish. Decent, drier-styled wine, with good varietal character -- satisfying stuff. 100% Monastrell (Mourvèdre). Tasted twice. Now-2012.
87     $12.95 (#94888)   Kylix Wines     (Licensee Price: $12.30)

MontGras 2007 ‘Quatro’,Colchagua Valley, Chile: Brilliant, dense ruby colour. Toasty, with attractive fresh mocha, cassis (with a trace of green pepper), plums, violets, earth, and spice. Clean, with good fruit, fine tannins, milder acidity, and a hint of light mocha and plums on the finish. Nicely done, with good balance and structure. 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Malbec, 25% Carmenère, and 15% Syrah, with 14,500 cases made. Tasted twice. Now-2012+.
87     $15.95 (#50641)   The Dochas Company Inc.     (Licensee Price: $15.15)

Terre del Barolo 2007 Barbera,‘Valdisera’, Barbera d’Alba DOC, Piedmont, Italy: Brilliant, dense purple-ruby colour. Toasty, with attractive aromas of moderate mocha, dark plums, blackberries, and a hint of vanilla and spice. Clean, with good fruit, fine tannins, balanced acidity, and a hint of fresh black plums on the finish. Nicely crafted, with good structure and balance. Tasted twice. Now-2012+. 87     $16.95 (#134759)   Saverio Schiralli     (Licensee Price: $16.10)

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Julian Hitner's Sommelier Selects Report (December 29, 2009)
Sparkling Suggestions for New Year's Eve

  With New Year’s Eve just around the corner, I always like to have a few bottles of my favourite sparkling wines on hand, if for no other reason than to commemorate the posting of my new kitchen fridge calendar for the upcoming year. I usually use the real estate calendar that comes with my newspaper, and I always have to use my strongest refrigerator magnet to keep it up.

     Seriously though, for most restaurant sommeliers (and enthusiasts), this is one of few times of the year when demand for sparkling wine reaches a peak like no other. Just ask any LCBO manager. Indeed, what could be better than cracking open a solid sparkler (or two) to celebrate the arrival of what ought to be a promising year ahead. From new tastings and travels to new friendships and celebrations, there will be plenty of occasions to savour of all life’s wondrous vinous items.

     Thus, for my final column of the year, I have compiled a list of the top sparkling wines (currently available in LCBO stores -- many seem to sell out after they are recommended) that I have tasted during these past twelve months. For lovers of vintage Champagne, one of my top selections would be the Baron-Fuenté 1996 ‘Grand Millesime’ (89+/100, $54.95), a brilliant example of how satisfying and flavourful mature Champagne can taste. On the other hand, if money is no object, the Krug NV ‘Grand Cuvée’ (96/100, $269.95) is unquestionably my number one choice (and a personal favourite of mine) for this Thursday evening, displaying such beautiful, complex aromatics and flavours that one is simply left with a feeling of utter contentment after each and every glass.

    Of course, as has been successfully argued for many years now, sparklers from Champagne are no longer the only marvellous fizzy forms of wine out there. As a case in point, New Zealand producers are fast demonstrating a wonderful knack for crafting world-class sparklers that will some day rival more costly Francophone houses in blind competitions. Thus, it is with pleasure to recommend the No. 1 Family Estate NV ‘Cuvée No. 1’ (89+/100), $36.95) as a superb alternative to popping open an actual bottle of Champagne this Thursday evening. 100% Chardonnay and decidedly stylish, the ‘Cuvée No. 1’ is also a brilliant offering for fine dining sommeliers to offer both by the bottle and by the glass.

     In terms of absolute value however, I would highly recommend the Castillo Perelada NV  ‘Reserva’ (89/100, $15.25), a lovely Spanish Cava of remarkable quality, especially when considering the price. Such a wine reminds me of a sparkler (I forget the name) that I once enjoyed nine years ago in Seville, celebrating the most momentous New Year’s Eve of the past one thousand years. From what I remember, there were some nice vintages in 2000, but that is best left to another column.

Happy New Year!

Here are some superb sparking wine suggestions for New Year’s Eve (licensee prices are those if purchases from LCBO stores):

Krug NV Brut, ‘Grande Cuvée’, Champagne AOC, France: One of the most extraordinary non-vintage Champagnes known to the winemaking world. Starbright, light lime colour. Exhibiting gorgeous aromas of fresh biscuits at the outset, seamlessly intermingling with refined notes of delicate pears, buttercups, creamy lemon, white flowers, pistachios, and the slightest hint of white truffles and spice. Exceedingly complex and clean, with beautiful crisp fruit, superb acidity, ending with an exquisite, lengthy hint of fresh biscuits and creamy pears on the finish. Spectacular ‘house’ Champagne, with brilliant structure, balance, refinement, and intensity. Drawn from wines aging 6 to 10 years of age, with the final blend often consisting of as many as 50 different wines! The perfect ‘house’ Champagne for the most distinguished collectors and ultra-fine dining establishments. Now-2018.
96     $269.95 (#38562)   Charton Hobbs Inc.     (Licensee Price: $256.45)

‘Dom Pérignon’ Vintage Brut 2002, Champagne AOC, France: One of the most prestigious (and best known) luxury Champagnes in the sparkling world. Starbright, pale-light lime colour. Extraordinarily youthful and complex at this stage, revealing very subtle notes of lovely biscuity quince, lemon, pears, white grapefruit and flowers, fresh nuts, and a hint of creamy spice. Superbly clean, with very tight, elegant fruit, beautiful acidity, and a brilliant, delicate hint of crisp pears on the finish. Exceedingly youthful (even after seven years) and wonderfully styled, with beautiful structure, balance, and refinement. A must-have for wealthy collectors and ultra-fine dining establishments. Now-2016+. A Vintages Essentials Product.
94     $219.95 (#280461)   Charton Hobbs Inc.     (Licensee Price: $208.95)

Bollinger NV Brut, ‘Special Cuvée’, Champagne AOC, France: Starbright, light straw colour. Exhibiting beautiful, complex scents of fresh biscuits, switching to creamy lemon, pistachios, pears, white flowers, grapefruit, and the slightest hint of dried honeysuckle. Clean and crisp, with very fine fruit, great acidity, ending with a lengthy, well-structured hint of biscuity pears on the finish. Superb, dynamic house Champagne, with first-rate structure, balance, and overall refinement. (Usually) a blend of 60% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay, and 15% Pinot Meunier. Acceptably priced for the quality and easily recommendable for fine dining establishments across the city. Now-2014.
92     $79.95 (#384529)   Imprese Inc.     (Licensee Price: $75.95)

Baron-Fuenté 1996 Vintage Brut, ‘Grand Millesime’, Champagne AOC, France: Brilliant, light straw-lime colour. Exhibiting beautiful scents of dried biscuity caramel, creamy yellow plums, French toast, and the slightest hint of white truffles and spice -- extremely mature. Complex and clean, with lovely mature fruit, balanced acidity, ending with a lingering hint of dried lemony biscuits on the finish. Delicious mature Champagne, with fine structure, balance, and aromatic intensity; though it does appear to be fading rather quickly. In other words, drink up! Nicely priced for an older vintage. Licensee recommended. Now-2010+.
89+     $54.95 (#155119)   Amethyst Wine Agency Inc.     (Licensee Price: $52.20)

No. 1 Family Estate NV ‘Cuvée No. 1’, Blanc de Blancs, Marlborough, New Zealand: Starbright, pale-light lime colour. Toasty, with lovely scents of lemony biscuits, white grapefruit and flowers, and a hint of creamy spice -- perhaps a shade unrevealing at present. Clean, with crisp, elegant fruit, very fine acidity, ending with a delicate hint toasted lemon and biscuits on the finish. Beautiful sparkler, with great balance, precision, and vibrancy. 100% Chardonnay. Nicely priced for the quality. Now-2013.
89+     $36.95 (#56358)   Connexion Oenophilia     (Licensee Price: $35.10)

Castillo Perelada, ‘Reserva’, Cava DO, Spain: Starbright, pale straw colour. Slightly biscuity, with crisp pears, quince, plus a slight trace of dried apricot blossom and roasted nuts. Complex. Clean and crisp, with nice fruit, good acidity, and a polished finish. Definitely a superior Cava, with a very fine style about it. A worthy substitute for basic Champagne … seriously. Great price. A top recommendation if I do say so myself. Drink now with pride.
89     $15.25 (#114488)   Terra Fine Wines     (Licensee Price: $14.49)

La Maison du Crémant NV Brut, Crémant de Bourgogne AOC, Burgundy, France: Starbright, pale straw colour. Starting off with crisp biscuits, giving way to light toast, pears, white flowers and grapefruit, mild tangerine, and a hint of chalk. Complex, clean, and crisp, with milder styled fruit, good acidity, and a nicely integrated finish. Good craftsmanship and balance. Agreeably priced. Now-2011. 88     $18.95 (#127811)   Dionysus Wines     (Licensee Price: $18.00)

Need a few Vintages Essentials suggestions?

Marchesi Antinori 2006 ‘Tignanello’, IGT Toscana, Italy:Brilliant, opaque ruby colour. Toasty, with beautiful, enticing aromas of dark mocha, dried currants, plums (slightly baked), blackberries, leather, cedar, vanilla, and spice. Complex and remarkably clean, with beautiful, elegant fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, ending with a lovely, lengthy hint of dark mocha and baked plums on the finish. Marvellous Tignanello, with superb structure, balance, and long-term aging potential. A blend of 85% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cabernet Franc; and aged for 12 months in new French oak barriques, with 29,165 cases made. Always a sound bet for wealthy collectors and fine dining establishments. Now-2016+.
92     $99.95 (#986786)   Halpern Enterprises     (Licensee Price: $94.95)

Tedeschi 2005,Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG, Veneto, Italy: Brilliant, opaque ruby-red colour. Exhibiting beautiful, powerful aromas of intense cedary mocha, stewed plums, currants, dates, figs, earth, vanilla, sandalwood, and spice. Complex, clean, and very smooth, with beautiful fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, ending with a lovely, lengthy hint of stewed plums on the finish. Superb, robust Amarone, with great fullness, structure, and balance (despite retaining 15.5% alcohol). A blend of 30% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 30% Rondinella, and 10% Rossignola, Oseleta, Negrara, and Dindarella -- all regional varietals. Reasonably priced and sommelier recommended. Now-2016+. Note: Amarone della Valpolicella was recently promoted to DOCG.
91+     $39.95 (#433417)   Noble Estates     (Licensee Price: $37.95)

Esporão 2006 ‘Reserva’,Alentejo DOC, Portugal: Brilliant, opaque purple-ruby colour. Toasty, with inviting aromas of dark mocha, stewed plums, currants, dates, leather, vanilla, and a hint of granola and spice. Complex and clean, with lovely, full fruit, soft tannins, balanced acidity, and a lengthy hint of stewed plums on the finish. Beautiful wine, with great balance, structure, and length. A blend of Trincadeira, Aragonês, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Alicante Bouschet (percentages unknown). Reasonably priced and recommended. Now-2014.
89+     $24.95 (#606590)   FWP Trading     (Licensee Price: $23.70)

Bodegas Muga 2005 ‘Reserva’,Rioja DOCa, Spain: Brilliant, opaque purple-ruby colour. Toasty, with inviting scents of fresh dark mocha, leathery currants, baked plums, blackberries, earth, vanilla, and spice. Complex and clean, with very good fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, and a lengthy, elegant hint of red plums on the finish. Quite sturdy and delicious (albeit a tad baked), with very fine balance, structure, and overall cellaring potential. A blend of 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha (Grenache), and 10% Mazuelo. Reasonably priced and recommended. Now-2014+.
89     $24.95 (#177345)   Vinexx Global     (Licensee Price: $23.70)

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Julian Hitner's Sommelier Selects Report (December 12, 2009)
Holiday Gift Suggestions
A Taste of Amarone from the Annual Italian Wine Fair

            With Christmas just around the corner, I thought it might be a good idea to list a few gift suggestions for my readers. For enthusiasts of tasty, fruit-forward reds, my top choice is the Trapiche Three-Bottle Gift Set (88+/100, $29.95): solid value for three wines, plus it comes with a Trapiche-labelled corkscrew. Another top suggestion is the Freixenet NV Cava, ‘Cordon Negro’ Two-Glass Gift Pack (88/100, $18.25): a solid, nicely crafted sparkler with two very lovely glasses. In terms of overall value, both these gift times are my top choices for the 2009 holiday season.

     However, if premium spirits are what you had in mind, I would strongly recommend the Middleton ‘Very Rare’ Irish Whiskey (94/100, $179.95), one of the finest Irish whiskies I have tasted in a very long time. Displaying incredible scents of fresh peat and citrus (among other sensations), which seem to last on the finish for a glorious length of time, this is unquestionably my top ultra-premium spirit suggestion for gift-givers (and takers) this Christmas.
 
     Of course, not all spirits gifts have to break the bank. For people (like me), who prefer more moderate prices, the Crown Royal Gift Set (88/100, $22.25) is an extremely sound bet, boasting attractive ‘poached’ maple, caramel, and butterscotch. More importantly, the box comes with two very sturdy whiskey glasses, which can be used long after the Crown Royal (375 mL) has been downed and enjoyed.

Here are some gift suggestions for the upcoming holiday season:
Wine Gift Sets:

Masi Three-Bottle Gift Set, Italy: Three half-bottles from one of the finer producers of Northeast Italy. The ’08 Pinot Grigio/Verduzzo: crisp, refreshing, and ready to drink. The ‘06 ‘Campofiorin’ (blend): dark cedary plums, with good fruit flavours and balance. The ’06 Amarone: baked plumy mocha, with cherried currants and spice -- full and flavourful. An admirable line-up for any Italian wine lover -- in this city, there have got to be a few!
88++   $34.95 (#128793)

Errazuriz 2007 ‘Max Reserva’ Two-Bottle Gift Pack, Aconcagua Valley, Chile: Two delicious wines (one Cabernet Sauvignon, the other Shiraz) for serious Chilean enthusiasts. A great gift for a valued client or close friend. In fact, the Cab. Sauv. can even be laid down a few years with little difficulty. In short, these are two very solid, finely structured wines.
88+   $35.80 (#128744)

Trapiche Three-Bottle Gift Set, Mendoza, Argentina: From one of the most up-and-coming winegrowing nations in the world. A satisfying, fruit-forward selection of Malbec (Reserva), Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Flavourful stuff, and definitely one of the better gift items coming out of the LCBO this holiday season. Includes a Trapiche corkscrew.
88+   $29.95 (#128173)

Mouton Cadet Two-Bottle Gift Pack, Bordeaux AOC, France: A sound selection for Bordeaux enthusiasts. The ’07 red offers lovely peppery red currants, while the ’08 white displays attractive fresh lemon citrus and green apples. Solid, straightforward value in my books.
88   $27.50 (#127837)

Freixenet, ‘Cordon Negro’ Two-Glass Gift Pack, Cava DO, Spain: The perfect gift for sparkling wine enthusiasts, with lovely crisp lemon-lime scents, plus a touch of pistachios -- very refreshing. Also includes two beautiful sparking wine flutes (much finer than what I initially expected). Great value if you ask me, especially for a young couple.
88   $18.25 (#898478)

Kittling Ridge Icewine & Brandy, Niagara Peninsula VQA: A lovely ‘stickie’ (375 mL) to enjoy after a delicious turkey dinner, displaying attractive scents of nutted maple, lemon, honeysuckle, and spice. Comes with two very pretty (and highly delicate) dessert wine glasses.
88   $29.95 (#898882)

Spirits (and Gift Sets):

Middleton ‘Very Rare’ Irish Whiskey: One of the finest Irish whiskies I have tasted in a very long time, boasting intense peaty-citrus notes, accompanied by white pepper, sugarcane, and a hint of nutted spice. Exceptionally smooth, complex, lengthy, and downright lovely -- the delicate peaty-citrus stays with you for an extremely long time. A superb gift for ultra-premium collectors, and comes in a gorgeous wooden box. A class act all the way.
94   $179.95 (#641589)

Classic Malts ‘Strong Collection’ Three-Bottle Pack: An exceedingly elegant set of three single malts (200 mL), each marvellously demonstrating the different, classic styles of stronger-styled Scotch. Personally, my two favourites are the Talisker (beautiful smoke and pepper) and the Lagavulin (splendid peat and dried wood). A superb gift set for an eager enthusiast just starting to explore the different aromas and flavours of some of the world’s most beloved single malt whiskies.
93   $89.95 (#11809)

The Glenlivet XXV 25-Year-Old Single Malt: One of the most expensive ultra-premium Scotch gifts to come out of the LCBO this Christmas! Displaying gorgeous scents of ‘mellow-sweet’ peat, earthy caramel, dried poached pears, and spice -- very complex. Beautifully balanced and smooth, with very deep flavours, superb structure and immense length. The ultimate über-premium gift for a valued colleague, client, parent, or friend. Comes in an absolutely exquisite wooden box.
93   $349.00 (#144329)

The Macallan ‘Whisky Maker’s Edition’: From one the finest Scotch distilleries in the country (not ours), the ‘Whisky Maker’s Edition’(1,000 mL) starts off with delicate peat and smoke, which later gives way to lovely scents of white pepper, spice, and a hint of banana bread and dried nuts. Truly great Scotch, with superb length, smoothness, and structure. A very fine gift for premium collectors, though it might not be currently available in LCBO stores.
92+   $110.45 (#132662)

El Dorado 21-Year-Old Rum: Extremely elegant and decidedly delicious, with lovely, complex scents of dark brown sugar, caramel, toffee, and a hint of banana bread, maple, and spice. Extremely smooth and sumptuous, with great structure, style, and length. The perfect gift for serious collectors of ultra-fine rum, a horrifically underrated type of spirit when crafted in premium form.
92   $109.95 (#45450)

Crown Royal Gift Set: A lovely gift set featuring a 375 mL bottle of Crown Royal (displaying enticing ‘poached’ maple, caramel, and butterscotch -- very smooth), combined with two very sturdy whiskey glasses, all presented an elegant little box. A very well priced gift for a supervisor or colleague. Bad joke: make your boss feel like a king!
88   $22.25 (#461962)

Italian Wine Fair at Roy Thompson Hall A Taste of Amarone

     It seems there is a different wine-related event somewhere throughout the city, often featuring the wines (and foods) of a specific winegrowing nation. With very few exceptions (such as London or New York),Toronto is one of very few other places in the world where one can attend a fully-fledged Portuguese tasting one week and a patently authentic Italian tasting the next.

    Of the latter, on November 2nd, the seventh annual Wines of Italy tasting was held at Roy Thomson Hall. Organized by the Italian Trade Commission (under the auspices of the Italian Consulate and Embassy), the interior promenade of the hall was filled with the wines of ninety-eight different producers. Once again, this proved to be an occasion where a wine writer like me could only sample a handful of the wines on offer. Thus, whenever I attend a tasting of this magnitude, experience has taught me to confine myself to one or two specific styles of wine. On this occasion, my primary choice was Amarone della Valpolicella.

     In recent years, the popularity of Amarone has soared, with top prices edging ever closer to the best of Piemonte and Montalcino. These days, such as at the Summerhill LCBO, there are just as many Amarones in the Vintages section as there are Barolos and Brunellos. This should not come as a surprise, as Amarone (recently promoted to DOCG) has shown itself to be tremendously well suited to the modern North American (and even European) palate: rich, smooth, full of fruit, and high in alcohol. At its simplest, Amarone is crafted from grapes that have been partially dried (usually on straw mats, though nowadays in more modern facilities) for around three to four months, resulting in a particularly concentrated and flavourful type of wine.

     On this lovely sunny afternoon, I was able to sample around a dozen such wines. In particular, I was greatly impressed with the two flagship Amarones of Masi Agricola (Authentic Wine & Spirits Merchants, 905.238.0716). The 2003 ‘Mazzano’ Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOC (92/100, $102.95) was definitely the most sumptuous, displaying beautiful aromas of fresh chocolate, baked plums, stewed blackberries, earth, cedar, vanilla, and spice. A blend of 75% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, and 5% Molinara, the level of smoothness, balance (even at 16% alcohol), and length on the ’03 speaks volumes on the hedonistic attractiveness of many modern Amarones. On the other hand, the 2003 ‘Campolongo’ Amarone della Valpolicella DOC (92/100, $93.95), though just as beautiful, was distinctly more powerful (and a degree less decadent) than the ‘Mazzano.’ A blend of 70% Corvina, 15% Rondinella, and 5% Molinara, the ’03 started off with intense aromas of fresh mocha, which later gave way to baked plums, currants, dates, earth, leather, cedar, vanilla, and spice. Extremely smooth, balanced (even at 16% alcohol), and retaining much firmer structure, there is no question that different premium Amarones are capable of displaying remarkably different characteristics; and fine dinning sommeliers ought to take note of this when adding new Amarones to their fine wine lists. Believe me, the same guests that tend to order opulent Rutherford Cabernets tend to be the same ones that will now and then request a bottle of premium Amarone.

Another delicious wine was the long-titled Tenuta San Antonio di Castagnedi 2004 ‘Campo Dei Gigli’, Amarone della Valpolicella DOC (92/100), a blend of 70% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, and 10% Croatina. Intrinsically enticing, with superb structure, balance (even at 15.5% alcohol), smoothness, and length, the ’04 exhibited beautiful aromas of fresh mocha, wild baked blackberries, blueberries, plums, earth, vanilla, and spice. Offered on consignment by Prevedello & Mathews International (416.979.9153) for around $80.00, this serves as yet another example of the growing number of premium Amarones available for ultra-fine dining establishments to add to their lists.

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Julian Hitner's Sommelier Selects Report (December 4, 2009)
Toronto Tastings: Portugal & Italy's Col d'Orcia
Plus the December 5th Vintages Release

            If there were one aspect about commentating on wine I especially enjoy, it would have to be all the fascinating subject matters into which I am able to delve. From persons and promotions to travels and tastings, there is always something interesting to discuss.

     This week, I would like to draw attention to two tastings and corresponding luncheons, both of which I have nothing but good things to say. The first took place on October 20th at the magnificent Summerhill LCBO, a favourite liquid haunt of mine since its restoration about six years ago. A rather extravagant ‘Wines of Portugal’ affair (at least for a weekday), the usual roll call of Torontonian wine writers were invited to partake of a tasting comprising five accomplished producers from this remarkable nation.

     Though there were around thirty-something items on hand, the red wines served (in the ‘Events Kitchen’) during a sumptuous lunch prepared by Chef Massimo Renzi (Sotto Sotto) were by far the most impressive. Paired with ravioli (first course) and osso buco with polenta (second course), I was greatly impressed with the Caves Messias 2007 ‘Dados’ (Reserva), DOC Douro (92/100). A blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), and Touriga Franca (percentages unknown), the delicious, finely crafted ’07 reveals beautiful, inviting aromas of mocha, plums, currants, blueberries, espresso, and spice. A testament to the structure, balance, and refinement that can found in a great number of premium wines crafted from this incredible vintage.

     Another favourite was the José Maria da Fonseca 2005 ‘Hexagon’, VR Terras do Sado (91+/100), a blend of 34.5% Syrah, 29.6% Touriga Franca, 23.3% Trincadeira, 7.8% Touriga Nacional, 3.1% Tinto Cão, and 1.7% Tannat. Complex, delicious, and intrinsically alluring, the ’05 ‘Hexagon’ serves as yet another example of remarkable progress Portuguese winemakers have made with their top-tier wines.

     Pressing on, an equal delight was the Aliança 2006 ‘Quinta dos Quatro Ventos’ (Reserva), DOC Douro (91+/100), a blend of Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, and Touriga Nacional (percentages unknown). Exhibiting alluring aromas of leathery mocha, plums, light blackberries, and spice, the ’06 is decidedly complex, stylish, and powerful. Finally, the Bacalhôa 2006 ‘Tinta da Ânfora, Grande Escolha’, VR Alentejano (90/100), a wine I had, in fact, tasted on a recent trip to the actual estate in Portugal (though it received just a slightly lesser score on that occasion) was also performing remarkably well. A delicious blend of Aragonês, Touriga Nacional, and Cabernet Sauvignon, it is always a pleasure to be able to experience the same premium wine twice, especially when it tastes as good as this. Indeed, it would be a great pity if sommeliers did not add such wines to their lists. Considering their quality, they represent impeccable for value for money.

     Naturally however, I cannot speak of Portuguese wines forever. The other tasting and luncheon I wish to discuss is a wonderful presentation featuring the wines of Col d’Orcia. Organized by Diamond Estates Wines & Spirits (416.488.4922) and held on November 9th at the marvellous Biagio Restorante (155 King Street East) in downtown Toronto, owner Count Alberto Marone Cinzano was personally on hand to guide us through his wines. For Italian wine enthusiasts, it goes without saying that Brunello and Barolo (perhaps along with Amarone) represent some of the finest red wines Italy has to offer. Of the former, the vast estate of Col d’Orcia is located within the very southern part of the Brunello di Montalcino DOCG. Quality (and quantity) is high.

     From a standpoint of value, I was very pleased with the ‘Spezieri’ 2006 IGT Toscana  (88/100). A blend of 40% Sangiovese, 20% Ciliegiolo (a traditional Tuscan grape), 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 20% Merlot, I am told this lovely, fresh and fruity wine is set to retail for around $18.00, making it a very worthy item to offer by the glass. Another great wine was the 2007 Rosso di Montalcino (89/100). Made from 100% Sangiovese and set to retail for around $25.00, the ’07 offers beautiful fragrant cherries that coincide with very fine freshness, balance, and character. A perfect pairing for pasta dishes infused with herbs and tomatoes.

     On the more premium side of the spectrum, the pure Brunello wines were particularly (and expectedly) superb. For instance, the 2004 Brunello di Montalcino (91/100, $60.00 [approx.]) is a beautiful wine, boasting incredible meaty aromas that later give way to fresh red plums and cherries, cedar, and spice. Skilfully polished, firm, and refined, the ’04 is set to retail for around $60.00. Following this, at the highest echelon is the ‘Poggio al Vento’ 2001 Brunello di Montalcino (Riserva) DOCG (93+/100), a wine unquestionably in a class of its own and a source of great pride for Count Cinzano. Though quite reserved at this stage, I was truly taken in by the exemplary hints of elegant cedary red plums, wild game, and cigar box notes that seemed to permeate the wine. A refined, superbly structured ware, the ’01 is set to retail for around $125.00.

     Finally, as a special treat for his guests, Count Cinzano produced a bottle of his sensational ‘Poggio al Vento’ 1980 Brunello di Montalcino (Riserva) DOCG (95/100) for us to taste.  An outstandingly alluring example of traditional Brunello, the ’80 features an exquisite bouquet of cedary cigar box, garrigue, sandalwood, savoury undergrowth, and spice. Exceedingly mature, integrated, and refined (and retailing for around $250.00), it was an absolute culinary delight to pair my sample with a delicious helping of veal-based ravioli, fine crusty breads and olive oil, fresh greens, and an appetizing array of quality deli meats. Of course, Col d’Orcia has many other fine wines in its portfolio, but it is simply impossible to list them all.

     Speaking of items impossible to list (that is, in their entirety), we finally come to the December 5th Vintages release, one of the largest showcases of the year with around 150 new products on offer this Saturday. The theme for the release is ‘Our Finest: winning food and drink combos for the holidays; plus Bubble Rapt: fascinating festive fizz.’ A long title for a substantial release, it was a monumental task to decide on my top suggestions for this weekend. And yet, I do believe readers shall be pleased with the variety of my selections.

     For whites (of which I have listed two more suggestions than usual), one of my top selections goes to the Petaluma 2008 ‘Hamlin Hill’ Riesling (89/100, $21.95), a beautiful offering from Clare Valley, arguably one of the finest winegrowing regions (in terms of overall quality) in South Australia. For restaurant sommeliers, I realise selling Riesling is never an easy task; but at least you can advise your guests that Clare Valley Riesling is almost always bone-dry, not to mention exceedingly tasty. Failing this, the Le Clos Jordanne 2007 ‘Village Reserve’ Chardonnay (91/100, $25.00) is also an excellent (if not an even finer) bet, displaying beautiful fresh quince, apricots, along with a very lovely hint of hazelnuts, honeysuckle, and spice. Better just buy a few bottles of both wines and play it safe.

     For high rollers (and collectors) on the other hand, I would strongly recommend the Chateau Montelena 2007 Chardonnay (92/100, $53.95), a beautiful, highly impressive Napa Valley white that seems to have taken on a slightly Burgundian influence. Though the popularity of Chardonnay has been called into question in recent years, there are still plenty of enthusiasts that would love get their hands on a bottle of this remarkable, excitingly balance wine.

     For reds (of which I have also included two more selections than usual), a top choice from this release is the Pirramimma 2005 Shiraz (89/100, $19.95), a splendid offering from one of the most reliable producers in McLaren Vale, Australia. Exhibiting cedary eucalyptus, mocha, and spice, the ’05 is developing remarkably well, retaining very fine structure, balance, and evolving character. Another favourite (and even better value) is a re-release of the Domaine Grand Veneur 2007 ‘Les Champauvins’ (90/100, $19.95), a truly well-structured, finely crafted wine from the Côtes du Rhône, revealing beautiful aromas of fresh pepper, violet currants, brambleberries, and spice.

    However, if you are need of something more upscale (a common occurrence this time of year), I would highly recommend the amazingly claret-like Shafer 2006 ‘One Point Five’ Cabernet Sauvignon (93/100, $85.95), impeccably firm, elegant, and refined, with beautifully smooth aromas and flavours of dark mocha, fresh currants, and spice. A brilliant Napa Valley offering for any ultra-fine wine list, as well as a marvellous addition to the private cellars of Toronto’s many premium wine collectors. I trust I have made my point.

     As you can now see, when it comes to commentating about wine, there is always something interesting to discuss. Personally however, I much prefer actually drinking wine than reading about wine; so if you want to now rush off to fetch a few bottles, I’ll understand completely. Hurry back!

Here are my top suggestions from the December 5th Vintages release (licensee prices are those if purchased from LCBO outlets):

White Wines:

Chateau Montelena 2007 Chardonnay, Napa Valley, California: Starbright, light lime colour. Toasty, with very beautiful scents of fresh quince at the outset, accompanied by lemon citrus and lime, pears, yellow plums, and the slightest hint of hazelnut-butterscotch. Complex and very clean, with fine fruit, balanced acidity, and an elegant hint of pears and quince on the finish. Remarkably crafted, with great freshness, refinement, and balance (boasting a merciful 13.7% alcohol). Aged for up to nine months in French oak, with 10,500 cases made. Slightly Burgundian, and easily recommendable for collectors and fine dining establishments. Now-2014+.
92     $53.95 (#701748)   Rogers & Company    (Licensee Price: $51.25)

Le Clos Jordanne 2007 Chardonnay, ‘Village Reserve’, Niagara Peninsula VQA: Starbright, light lime colour. Toasty, with lovely, intense scents of fresh quince and apricots, switching to white peaches, pears, key lime, fresh nuts, and a hint of honeysuckle and spice. Complex and very clean, with beautiful fruit, balanced acidity, ending with an exquisite hint of fresh hazelnuts and quince on the finish. Exceptionally crafted, with beautiful style, balance, and freshness. One of the finest Chardonnays I have yet to taste from this Jordan-based winery (which still happens to be operating out of an old warehouse). Reasonably priced and highly recommended -- a must-have for fine dining establishments. Now-2013+.
91     $25.00 (#33936)   Vincor International    (Licensee Price: $23.75)

Anne Boecklin 2007 Gewurztraminer, ‘Reserve’, Alsace AOC, France: Starbright, light yellow-lime colour. Dazzling aromatics: intense spicy honeysuckle at the outset, giving way to fresh lychee, ripe apricots, nutted congee, and a hint of white flowers and stony beach pebbles. Complex and clean, with refined, spicy fruit, balanced acidity, and a lovely, lingering hint of fresh lychee and honeysuckle on the finish. Superb wine, with beautiful balance, intensity, and style. Well priced and highly recommended -- a real find. Now-2014.
90     $19.95 (#141226)   Ruby Wines & Spirits     (Licensee Price: $18.95)

Astrolabe 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, ‘Voyage’, Marlborough, New Zealand: Starbright, pale lime colour. Intensely grassy at the outset, with vibrant notes of fresh gooseberries, lemon, lime, cat’s pee, and a lovely hint of dried pears and asparagus (seriously). Clean, with crisp, zesty fruit and acidity, ending with a delicate, nervy hint of minerally, grassy gooseberries on the finish. Classic Marlborough Sauvignon, with great intensity, balance, and freshness. Winemaker Simon Waghorn has every reason to be pleased with this wine. Reasonably priced. Screwcap closure. Now-2011.
89     $19.95 (#10421)   Rogers & Company     (Licensee Price: $18.95)

Petaluma 2008 Riesling, ‘Hamlin Hill’, Clare Valley, Australia: Starbright, pale-light lime colour. Exhibiting lovely, intense scents of fresh lime cordial, giving way to lemon citrus, dried pears, kerosene, and a hint of lavender, light dewy melon, and spice. Clean, with crisp, vibrant fruit, racy acidity, and a delicate hint of fresh lime cordial on the finish. Beautiful Clare Riesling, with great intensity, balance, and regional style. Reasonably priced and highly recommended. Screwcap closure. Now-2014+.
89     $21.95 (#138537)   Select Wine Merchants Inc.     (Licensee Price: $20.85)

Errazuriz 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, ‘Aconcagua Costa Single Vineyard’, Aconcagua Valley, Chile: Starbright, pale-light lime colour. Intensely grassy at the outset, with attractive scents of gooseberries, zesty stone fruit, lemon, and a hint of white grapefruit and lime. Clean, with pleasant minerally fruit, balanced acidity, and a zesty hint of grassy gooseberries on the finish.  Impressive, stylish Sauvignon Blanc, with very good balance, freshness, and approachability. Reasonably priced and licensee recommended. Screwcap closure. Now-2010+.
88     $15.95 (#135426)   Philippe Dandurand Wines Ltd.     (Licensee Price: $15.15)

Red Wines:

Shafer 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, ‘One Point Five’,Stags Leap District (Napa Valley), California: Brilliant, opaque purple-ruby colour. Toasty, with very refined, inviting aromas of dark mocha at the outset, switching to fresh currants, black plums, earth, charcoal, and spice. Engagingly complex and very clean, with beautiful fruit, firm tannins, slightly milder acidity, and a lovely, reserved hint of black plums and light mocha on the finish. Impeccably elegant, with superb structure, balance (despite 14.9% alcohol), and breed. Also contains 1% Petit Verdot, and aged for 20 months in 75% new oak barrels (70% French and 30% American). Incredibly claret-like in style. From one of the most respected producers in the entire Golden State. An exceptional bargain for collectors and fine dining establishments, alike. Now-2018.
93     $85.95 (#45476)   Rogers & Company     (Licensee Price: $81.65)

Marchesi Antinori 2006 ‘Guado Al Tasso’,Bolgheri Superiore DOC, Italy:Brilliant, opaque ruby colour. Toasty, with immensely inviting aromas of dark mocha, baked currants and plums, slightly cedary leather, earth, vanilla, and spice. Complex, clean, and extremely smooth, displaying forward, yet refined fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, ending with a lovely, lengthy hint of baked mocha and plums on the finish. Powerful and Parkerized, with superb structure, balance, and refinement. A blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 5% Syrah; and aged for 18 months in new French oak barriques. Ideal for wealthy collectors and ultra-fine dining establishments, with 6,660 cases made. Now-2015+.
92     $89.95 (#986380)   Halpern Enterprises     (Licensee Price: $85.45)

Silver Oak 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon,Napa Valley, California: Brilliant, opaque ruby-red colour.  Toasty, with incredibly hedonistic aromas of fresh milk chocolate, switching to currants, plums, blackberries, blueberries, light earth, graphite, vanilla, and spice. Complex, clean, and remarkably smooth, with beautiful sumptuous fruit, fine tannins, milder acidity, concluding with a delicious, lengthy hint of milk chocolate and plums on the finish. Immensely delicious, powerful, and Parkerized, nonetheless boasting superb structure, balance (only 13.5% alcohol), and length. Unquestionably controversial in style, yet undeniably delicious no matter how you look at it (despite my own personal preference for greater individuality and reservedness). Also contains 7% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot; and aged for 25 months in 100% new American barrels. A worthy wine for wealthy collectors and ultra-fine dining establishments -- easily sellable to the big rollers. Now-2016.
92     $125.95 (#936039)   Halpern Enterprises     (Licensee Price: $119.65)

Bodegas Ontañón 2004 ‘Reserva’,Rioja DOCa, Spain: Brilliant, dark-opaque ruby-red colour. Toasty and stylishly cedary, with lovely scents of baked plums, currants, earth, mocha, and a hint of granola, vanilla, and spice. Complex and clean, with very fine fruit, well-structured tannins, balanced acidity, ending with a refined, lengthy hint of cedary mocha and plums on the finish. Truly impressive, with beautiful structure, balance, and refinement of character. A blend of 95% Tempranillo and 5% Graciano; and aged for 24 months in American and French oak barriques. Reasonably priced and highly recommended. Now-2014+.
90     $25.95 (#725895)   RKW Wine Imports     (Licensee Price: $24.65)

Fattoria di Basciano 2006 ‘Vigna il Corto’,IGT Colli della Toscana Centrale, Italy:Brilliant, opaque ruby colour, with a touch of purple. Toasty, with beautiful, intense aromas of black mocha, baked plums, currants, earth, and the slightest hint of cedary undergrowth, vanilla, and spice. Clean, with very fine, forward fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, and a lengthy hint of baked plums (slightly cedary) on the finish. Superb Super Tuscan, with great structure, balance, and style. A blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon (percentages unknown). Reasonably priced. Now-2015.
90     $29.95 (#134775)   Joseph Cipelli Wines & Spirits     (Licensee Price: $28.45)

Domaine Grand Veneur 2007 ‘Les Champauvins’,Côtes du Rhône Villages AOC, France: Brilliant, medium-dark ruby colour, with a touch of purple. Beginning with beautiful notes of fresh pepper, switching to violet currants, brambleberries, leather, and a hint of smoke. Clean, with terrific fruit, approachable tannins, balanced acidity, and a delightful hint of violet brambleberries on the finish. Superbly balanced, with beautiful freshness of character. One of the finest Côtes du Rhône Villages wines I have ever tasted. Outstandingly priced and highly recommended. Now-2013.
90     $19.95 (#76331)   Group Soleil     (Licensee Price: $18.95)

Pirramimma 2005 Shiraz, McLaren Vale, Australia: Bright, opaque red-garnet colour. Toasty, with pronounced cedary eucalyptus, mocha, stewed currants and plums, leather, vanilla, and spice. Complex and clean, with very fine, forward cedary fruit, supple tannins, mild acidity, and a lengthy hint of cedary eucalyptus and mocha-plums on the finish. Beautiful Shiraz, with great structure, balance, and evolving character. Perhaps a little baked, though it does not seem to adversely affect the wine. Aged for 2 years in new American oak. Reasonably priced and highly recommended. Now-2014.
89     $19.95 (#987784)   B & W Wines     (Licensee Price: $18.95)

Finca Flichman 2006 ‘Paisaje de Barrancas’,Mendoza, Argentina: Brilliant, opaque purple-ruby colour. Toasty, with inviting aromas of fresh mocha, giving way to dark plums, currants, baked blackberries, violets, and a hint of earth, vanilla, and spice. Complex and clean, with enjoyable forward fruit, firm tannins, milder acidity, ending with a lovely, lingering hint of mocha and plums on the finish. Tasty wine, with lovely structure, balance, and heft. A blend of Syrah, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon (percentages unknown). Reasonably priced. Now-2014.
88+     $17.95 (#17129)   Charton Hobbs Inc.     (Licensee Price: $17.05)

Sparking Wines:

Inniskillin 2007 Sparkling Vidal Icewine (375 mL), Niagara Peninsula VQA: A wonderful sweet-sparking creation. Starbright, medium golden-yellow colour. Exhibiting lovely scents of freshly nutted honeysuckle, giving way to orange peel, dried waxy apricots, sweet lemon drops and spice. Complex and very clean, with beautifully sweet (yet crisp) fruit, balanced acidity, extending marvellously onto the finish. Brilliant sparkling icewine, boasting delightful balance, style, and originality. Recommended for collectors and ultra-fine dining establishments, particularly those that tend to place emphasis on locally derived cuisine (you know who you are). Now-2014+.
91     $69.95 (#560367)   Vincor International     (Licensee Price: $66.45)

Baron-Fuenté 1996 Vintage Brut ‘Grand Millesime’, Champagne AOC, France: Brilliant, light straw-lime colour. Exhibiting beautiful scents of dried biscuity caramel, creamy yellow plums, French toast, and the slightest hint of white truffles and spice -- extremely mature. Complex and clean, with lovely mature fruit, balanced acidity, ending with a lingering hint of dried lemony biscuits on the finish. Delicious mature Champagne, with fine structure, balance, and aromatic intensity; though it does appear to be fading rather quickly. In other words, drink up! Nicely priced for an older vintage. Licensee recommended. Now-2010+.
89+     $54.95 (#155119)   Amethyst Wine Agency Inc.     (Licensee Price: $52.20)

No. 1 Family Estate NV ‘Cuvée No. 1’, Blanc de Blancs, Marlborough, New Zealand: Starbright, pale-light lime colour. Toasty, with lovely scents of lemony biscuits, white grapefruit and flowers, and a hint of creamy spice -- perhaps a shade unrevealing at present. Clean, with crisp, elegant fruit, very fine acidity, ending with a delicate hint toasted lemon and biscuits on the finish. Beautiful sparkler, with great balance, precision, and vibrancy. 100% Chardonnay. Nicely priced for the quality. Now-2013.
89+     $36.95 (#56358)   Connexion Oenophilia     (Licensee Price: $35.10)

Domainde de Vaugondy Brut NV, Vouvray AOC, France: Starbright, pale-light lime colour. Displaying delightful scents of crisp melon at the outset, giving way to fresh dewy lime, lemon, and a hint of white flowers and creamy green apples. Clean and crsip, with well-defined fruit, balanced acidity, and a lovely hint of dewy melon and lime on the finish. Splendid sparkling Vouvray, with very good balance, freshness, and style. 100% Chenin Blanc. Reasonably priced. Now-2011+.
88     $17.95 (#154567)   Saverio Schiralli     (Licensee Price: $17.05)

Fortified Wine:

Delaforce 2004 Late Bottled Vintage Port, Douro DOC, Portugal: Brilliant, opaque red currant colour. Offering beautifully intense notes of sweet cedary plums, fruitcake, figs, dates, and a hint of (dried) dark chocolate and spice. Complex and clean, with fine fruit, approachable tannins, balanced acidity, and a lovely hint of sweet fruitcake on the finish. Impressive, well-crafted LBV, with admirable structure, balance, and length. Reasonably priced and licensee recommended. Now-2014.
89     $16.95 (#140897)   B & W Wines     (Licensee Price: $16.10)

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Julian Hitner's Sommelier Selects Report (November 28, 2009)
On Assignment in Portugal – Part III
Dinners and Quintas – thoughts on my time in Lisbon and at the wineries

Equipped with a glass of fifteen-year-old Verdelho Madeira (muses come in very different forms), I set out on this dreary Wednesday afternoon to begin my final column on my experiences in Portugal. For the grand finale, the subjects are twofold: dinners and quintas.

     Of the former, it goes without saying that a capital like Lisbon is in no shortage of very fine places to dine; and I am happy to report that my hosts from Viniportugal were all too eager to share them with me. Take, for instance, a large-scale dinner I attended on a Friday night (November 13th). Hosted by Vinalda Group, one of Portugal’s most successful distributors of wines and spirits, this was unequivocally the finest dining experience of which I was privileged to partake during my extended stay in Lisbon.

     With dozens of accomplished winemakers and owners in attendance, the event was held at the five-star Altis Belem Hotel, located on the revived Lisbon waterfront. My table companions for the evening were Greg Harrington MS and Vasco d’Avillez, the latter a former President of Viniportugal and an exceedingly nice man in his own right (he even lived in Mississauga many years ago). With a staggering ten courses in total, this was no moderate affair, with dish after dish comprising such distinctiveness (and brilliance) of texture and taste that one could not help but remark at the inferiority of most other restaurants one often tends to patronize in the course of one’s life.

     Aside from the foie gras with chutney (of which I could never get enough), I was probably most impressed with the single tiger shrimp served in an extraordinarily appetizing purée of white peas (the menu I have from the evening is in Portuguese, so it may actually have been a different concoction). Though not the best pairing, at the time I was making my way through a delicious glass of Quinta do Monte d’Oiro 2006 Syrah ‘Reserva’, VR Lisboa (91/100), one of the finest of its type I have ever tasted from a Portuguese producer (I also visited the winery several days later -- please read on for more information). Before this, I was happily polishing off a (moderate) amount of Casa Cadaval 2007 ‘Padre Pedro’ (Reserva), VR Ribatejano (89/100), a delicious, well crafted blend of local and international grapes. A fairly satiating evening if I do say so myself, it went on several hours into the morning (though it started at 9:00 P.M.) --- did I mention sleep was something of a rarity during my stay?

     Another dinner of note occurred on the following night at the endearingly authentic (yet ever-so slightly touristy) Café Luso, a Fado house in the heart of the city. If you have never heard of Fado (which means ‘fate’), you may be forgiven, for it is a delightful type of song comprising traditional instrumental music and vocal accompaniment that, in its truest form, can only be found in this remarkable Mediterranean nation. Think of it as a type of Italian aria, only with a patently Portuguese flavour of song and expression. Linguistics play a very important role here.

    For my part, I have always been a staunch believer in the notion that fine food and drink can only be enhanced by the inclusion of beautiful music in the background. And with Andreia Lucas (my host from Viniportugal) as my table companion, I was able to learn all I needed to know about how to fully experience an evening of Fado. Actually, compared to the previous evening, this was a refreshingly simple affair, with a lovely Dão red (I do not recall the exact wine) paired with an exquisite set of lamb chops in a light (yet very satisfying) sauce of mushrooms and other vegetables. A perfect way to spend a rainy Saturday night.

    Come to think of it, looking back on my time in Lisbon and the surrounding winegrowing regions, it seems that whenever I was not having dinner (or lunch), I was either visiting a museum or examining a winery. Of the latter, there is much to tell. The first winery I visited (on the same Saturday as my Fado evening) was Quinta da Murta, which is located in the nearby DOC Bucelas winegrowing region. Unfortunately, the owner was unavailable, so it turned out to be a rather brief stay; though I did enjoy a pleasant sample of the 2007 Touriga Nacional, VR Estremadura (88/100), which displayed tasty black fruit and carried good balance and approachability.

    The same day, I also paid a visit to Enoport Wine Group, a large-scale umbrella company that owns several wineries in Bucelas. Boasting a substantial portfolio, export manager Ricardo Lopes certainly had a great deal of information to impart. I was particularly pleased with the Caves Velhas 2007 ‘Cabeça de Toiro’ (Reserva), DOC Ribatejo (88/100), a solid, well-crafted blend of Touriga Nacional and Castelão. This being said, the star wine was definitely the Quinta do Boicão 2006 ‘Special Selection’, VR Estremadura (89+/100), a very fine blend retaining beautiful dark mocha and blueberries, firm tannins, and lovely complexity. Combined with Fado later in the evening, this was one busy day; but that’s Portugal in its entirety for you.

     The following Monday, I paid an early evening visit to the highly impressive Quinta do Monte d’Oiro winery. Located in the DOC Alenquer winegrowing region, I remember the event well: it was pitch black and raining terribly, and it was a long drive to the estate. But considering the quality of the wines, it was certainly worth the trip. Of highest quality was the 2006 ‘Aurius’, VR Lisboa (91/100), a beautiful blend of Touriga Nacional, Syrah, and Petit Verdot (percentages unknown). Undeniably delicious, the ’06 boasted lovely damson red plums and mocha, coupled with firm tannins and very fine complexity. The 2006 ‘Têmpera’ Tinta Roriz, VR Lisboa (90/100) was almost as impressive, displaying beautiful red plums, great firmness, and a very lasting finish. And let’s not forget that Syrah enjoyed on the Friday night! Indeed, head winemaker Graça Gonçalves has every right to take pride in the premium quality of her wines.

     The next day, I visited the Companhia Agrícola do Sanguinhal, another umbrella company (albeit on a much smaller scale) that owns several wineries in the DOC Óbidos winegrowing region. With soft-spoken owner Carlos João Pereira da Fonseca on hand as my guide, this was a truly delightful (and generous) visit. From beautiful garden grounds to lovely old cellars to a picturesque little wine store (and a dog that would not even stand up to say hello when I greeted him), it was a pleasure to take in the surroundings and sample some very decent wines.

     Truly, Mr. Pereira has very good reason to be pleased with the quality of his reds, particularly the ones of more premium value. The Quinta do Sanguinhal 2006 Touriga Nacional ‘Sanguinhal’, VR Lisboa (88/100) was a personal favourite, boasting lovely black fruit, fine tannins, and good potential longevity. In fact, the Quinta Das Cerejeiras 2003 ‘Reserva’, DOC Óbidos (88+/100) was even a shade better, offering lovely baked mocha and plums, firm tannins, and a delicious finish. A delightful wine to conclude a delightful visit.

     Finally, on the Tuesday before my departure, I was privy to visit the magnificent Bacalhôa: Vinhos de Portugal winery, by far the most extravagant vinous establishment I have yet to visit in Portugal (they even have terra cotta warriors in the garden, along with dozens upon dozens of large statues). My guides for the afternoon were winemaking director Filipa Tomaz da Costa (of whom I once met at a luncheon at the Summerhill LCBO -- more on that in my next issue) and export manager Manuela Vieira.

     From the outset, I could easily sense that was an incredibly serious (and successful) winemaking operation, with the most premium reds easily catching my eye. The finest was definitely the 2005 ‘Palácio da Bacalhoa’, VR Terras do Sado (91/100), decidedly forward and elegant, offering beautiful aromas of mocha, blueberried plums, and spice. A blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot, and 6% Petit Verdot, this could be easily cellared through 2015. Another favourite was the Tinta da Ânfora 2006 ‘Grande Escolha’, VR Alentejano (89/100), a beautiful, balanced wine exhibiting lovely fresh mocha and smooth red currants. A blend of  Aragonês, Touriga Nacional, and Cabernet Sauvignon, I later discovered that I had actually tasted this exact same wine at the aforementioned Summerhill luncheon.

    This marvellous tasting was capped off with a sensational lunch in the main dining room of the estate, where I happily made my way through a delicious helping of a carefully prepared plate of duck a l’orange. Indeed, I will never forget the dessert wine following this wonderful meal: the exquisite 1999 ‘Roxo’ Moscatel, DOC Setúbal (93/100), the finest sweet (non-fortified) Portuguese wine I have ever tasted. Exhibiting intense exotic marmalade, honeyed orange peel, and spice, I was truly captivated by the sweetness and length of this Purple Moscatel-derived wine. Once again, though I did not realize it the time, I had also tasted the ’99 ‘Roxo’ at the Summerhill luncheon. An agreeable gastronomic coincidence.

     Thus concludes my experiences in Portugal, a remarkable nation with sincerely wonderful sights and truly exceptional people. Would I care to go back? Absolutely. Will I now purchase more Portuguese wines? Probably (I do buy a lot of wines from different places). Will I try to organize my own Fado performance? Let me just say that it would take a lot more Madeira than what I have drunk while completing this column --- what a life I lead.

Julian Hitner's Sommelier Selects Report (November 20, 2009)
Touriga Nacional Judging in Lisbon
& Vintages November 21st Release

      Back at my hotel room in Lisbon, I continue to pour through my notes and recollections over the past several days. Indeed, this has been a very memorable trip, from magnificent dinners and wine tastings to exquisite museums and monasteries. Of the former, as I mentioned last week, the actual reason for my visit to Portugal is to take part in judging a wine contest (organized by my hosts from Viniportugal) featuring nothing but wines made from 100% Touriga Nacional grapes.

     With sixty-two wines in total, I was amazed at the overall diversity of wines being made from this decidedly noble varietal. And yet, while it is often risky to be overly specific when describing the characteristics of a specific grape, it certainly seems clear that Touriga Nacional is not without several identifiable features. In terms of aromatics, most of the more premium wines tend to give off very attractive notes of damson-based blackberries, plums, currants, and (even) blueberries. In addition, these same wines often seem to conjure up impressions of violets, lavender, light white pepper, and spice. On the palate, the finest examples can be quite rich, carrying lots of good fruit, boasting firm (yet approachable) tannins, balanced acidity, and retaining very fine length on the finish. Such wines should have no trouble being cellared for a good many years.

     In the end then, the best wines of this contest were those that possessed such qualities to their finest degree, where elegance was not overshadowed by extraction, and when balance was not compromised by excessive manipulation. Quite regrettably however, as the judging of this contest was conducted blind, I have yet to receive a copy of the wines presented (at least not in time for the publication of this week’s column). From memory though, I can recall that the wine that took first place was the Quinta do Vallado 2005 Touriga Nacional ‘Reserva,’ Douro DOC (because I did not know what wine this was when I examined it blind, I cannot recall my score; though it definitely received more than ninety points). This notwithstanding, there is a little doubt in my mind that the other winners were of similar calibre. A tribute to the progress Portuguese winemakers have made with this decidedly noble varietal.

     Of course, even in my absence, life in the Toronto wine scene goes on. This weekend, for the November 21st Vintages release, the theme is ‘Bright Stars: A Galaxy of Holiday Wines, Champagnes and Spirits.’ The most exclusive release of the year, it was remarkably easy to select my top picks of the lot.

     For whites, my first choice (for premium quality) goes to the Marchesi Antinori 2007 ‘Castello della Sala, Cervaro della Sala’ (91/100, $54.95), unquestionably one of the most substantial whites that Central Italy has to offer. A blend of 85% Chardonnay and 15% Grechetto, the ’07 boasts lovely fullness, complexity and overall purity. A wine that amply illustrates the extent to which Italy is capable of producing world-class whites. Granted, for sommeliers, this might not be the easiest wine to promote, as most people who willing to spend this type of money are invariably drawn to California. And yet, with just the right encouragement, the finest sommeliers of Toronto should be able to sell (at least) a few bottles of this beautiful wine.

     For more modest budgets however, another white wine worthy of purchase is the Mount Riley 2008 Sauvignon Blanc (88+/100, $15.95). For three releases in a row now, I believe I have recommended a New Zealand (Marlborough) white, and this particular offering represents great value for money, displaying just the right amount of zesty grassiness and gooseberries. From one of the nicest wineries in New Zealand, and a superb offering to sell by the glass.

     Turning our attention to reds, it ought not to take long for readers to discover that seven out of eight of my selections are unmistakably (and purposely) on the costly side of the equation. My reason: this is the time of year when fine dining establishments are typically likely to sell the greatest quantities of ultra-premium wines; and I wouldn’t be much of a wine writer (for the trade) if my suggestions did not reflect this. And so, my number one selection for this release is none other than the brilliant Marchesi Antinori 2005 ‘Solaia’ (95/100, $234.95), indisputably one of the most exclusive Super Tuscans that Italy has to offer. Classic, profound, and particularly refined, the ’05 reveals a gorgeous cacophony of aromas, flavours, and textures that seem to harmonize better than most other reds of its might. A truly beautiful wine, and the prefect exclusive item for ultra-premium sommeliers to make available to their guests.

     However, if you are like most people, in that money is something you do not have in endless supply, you would do well to obtain a few bottles of the beautiful Mission Hill 2007 ‘SLC’ Syrah (92/100, $36.95), a true bargain if ever there was one, as well as one of the finest of its type I have yet to taste out of our beloved westernmost province. Boasting lovely mocha, currants, and leather, the finest attribute of the ’07 ‘SLC’ is its level of freshness and refinement. Priced accordingly, this ought to settle all doubts about the extraordinary potential for Syrah in the southern half of the Okanagan Valley.

     And so, after just four days in Portugal (and a little reminiscing about the upcoming Vintages release), I can honestly state that I am beginning to get a feel for this unique and generous country. More on my wining and dining experiences next week.
Here are my top suggestions from the November 21st Vintages release (licensee prices are those if purchased from LCBO outlets):

White Wines:

Le Clos Jordanne 2007 Chardonnay, ‘Le Grand Clos’, Twenty Mile Bench VQA, Niagara Peninsula: Starbright, light lime colour. Toasty, with delicate, complex scents of white flowers, quince, pears, dried apricots, candle wax, lemon, and the slightest hint of nuts -- rather tight at the present stage. Clean, with lovely, fine fruit, balanced acidity, and a beautiful hint of toasted pears and quince on the finish. Highly impressive, with great balance (despite carrying 14% alcohol), structure, and refinement. A worthy wine for Canadian collectors, though one really ought to wait a year before opening up a bottle. 2010-2014.
91     $65.00 (#34561)   Vincor International     (Licensee Price: $61.75)

Marchesi Antinori 2007 ‘Castello della Sala, Cervaro della Sala’, IGT Umbria, Italy: Starbright, medium yellow-lime colour. Intensely toasty, with powerful scents of fresh honeysuckle, ripe apricots, pears, lemon, melted butter, and a hint of orange peel, dried nuts, and vanilla. Complex and very clean, with lovely forward fruit, balanced acidity, ending with a lengthy hint of fresh apricots and butterscotch on the finish. Great wine, with beautiful forwardness, purity, and balance. A blend of 85% Chardonnay and 15% Grechetto; fermented and (then) aged for six months in 225-litre new French oak barriques. A worthy wine for collectors and fine dining establishments. Now-2014+.
91     $54.95 (#512376)   Halpern Enterprises     (Licensee Price: $52.20)

Mount Riley 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand: Starbright, pale lime colour. Intensely grassy at the outset, with lovely scents of fresh gooseberries, white pears and grapefruit, lemon, and a hint of cat’s pee and peaches. Clean and crisp, with very zesty fruit, balanced acidity, ending with a delightfully nervy hint of grassy gooseberries on the finish. Textbook Marlborough Sauvignon, with just the right level of crispness, balance, and regional character. Very reasonably priced and licensee recommended. Screwcap closure. Now-2011.
88+     $15.95 (#981670)   Diamond Estates Wines & Spirits     (Licensee Price: $15.15)

Domaine Bellevue 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, Touraine AOC, Loire, France: Brilliant, light straw-lime colour. Moderately grassy at the outset, with fresh notes of lemon, melon, light white grapefruit, and a trace of schist. Clean, with pleasant, slightly nervy fruit, good acidity, and a fairly grassy finish. Delightful Touraine, displaying enticing crispness, balance, and overall character. A virtual bargain at this price. Licensee recommended -- a perfect offering to sell by the glass. Now-2010.
88     $13.95 (#82305)   Vergina Import International     (Licensee Price: $13.25)

Red Wines:

Marchesi Antinori 2005 ‘Solaia’,IGT Toscana, Italy: One of the most prestigious wines in Tuscany (along with Ornellaia and Sassicaia). Brilliant, opaque purple-ruby colour. Toasty, with immensely inviting, powerful aromas of dark cedary mocha, baked currants and plums, leather, light balsam, sandalwood, undergrowth, vanilla, and spice. Intrinsically complex and clean, with beautiful fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, ending with a gorgeous, elegant hint of dark cedary plums and mocha on the finish. Magnificent in virtually every respect, displaying terrific structure, balance, refinement, and long-term ageability. A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Sangiovese, and 5% Cabernet Franc; aged for 18 months in French oak barriques (a large percentage I would assume to be new). Classic, profound Solaia. A must-have for wealthy collectors and ultra-fine dining establishments. Now-2018.
95     $234.95 (#987586)   Halpern Enterprises     (Licensee Price: $223.20)

Opus One 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon,Napa Valley, California:Since its first vintage in 1979, Opus One has maintained a reputation for unequivocal luxury and allurement, and the 2005 vintage is certainly without exception. Brilliant, opaque ruby colour, with a touch of ruby. Incredibly gorgeous and (on initial examination) quite hedonistic, featuring brilliant aromas of fresh milk chocolate and toast, switching to currants, plums, leafy blackberries, leather, graphite, mint, vanilla, and spice. Highly complex and clean, with beautiful, well-structured fruit, fine tannins, slightly milder acidity, ending with wonderful, lengthy hint of fresh mocha and earthy plums on the finish. Classic and remarkably claret-like in virtually every respect, with impeccable structure, balance, refinement, and long-term ageability. A blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Malbec; and aged for 17 months in new French oak barrels. The ultimate wine for wealthy collectors and top-end dining institutions, with 22,500 cases made. Tasted twice. Now-2020.
95     $299.95 (#583203)   Noble Estates     (Licensee Price: $284.95)

Chateau Montelena 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, ‘Estate’,Napa Valley, California:From one of the most respected and historic estates in Napa Valley. Brilliant, opaque purple-ruby colour. Toasty, with intense, alluring aromas of dark mocha, currants, plums, black cherries (slightly baked), earth, cedar, vanilla, and spice. Complex and very clean, with well-structured fruit, firm tannins, (surprisingly) balanced acidity, ending with a lovely, lengthy hint of fresh plums and light cedar on the finish. Impeccable Napa Cabernet, with superb structure, balance (boasting an unusually manageable 14.2% alcohol), refinement, and length. Aged for 18 months in 28% new French oak, with 10,000 cases made. Slightly Bordelaise in style, and an extremely worthy wine for wealthy collectors and ultra-fine restaurants. Now-2016.
94     $139.95 (#709881)   Rogers & Company     (Licensee Price: $132.95)

Elderton 2005 Shiraz, ‘Command Single Vineyard’,Barossa, Australia: Bright, opaque ruby colour. Unquestionably hedonistic and super-powerful, with gorgeous aromas of chocolate, toast, and eucalyptus at the outset, switching to baked red plums, currants, dried black cherries, dates, mint, cedar, vanilla, and lots of spice. Complex, clean, and downright sumptuous, with superb forward fruit, supple tannins, mild acidity, ending with a very lengthy, delicious hint of fresh chocolate and baked plums on the finish. Parkerized in overdrive, yet retaining great structure, balance (easily carrying 14.5% alcohol), length, and long-term ageability. Aged for 34 months in new French and American oak hogsheads (300 litres). Reasonably priced for the quality -- highly recommended for fine dining establishments and collectors, alike. Now-2018.
94     $89.95 (#716142)   Dionysus Wines     (Licensee Price: $85.45)

Caymus 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, ‘Special Selection’,Napa Valley, California:Brilliant, opaque purple colour. Conspicuously dense and immensely alluring, with beautiful aromas of baked black plums, mocha, currants, blackberries, stewed black cherries, earth, leather, vanilla, and spice. Complex, clean, and extremely smooth, with beautiful forward fruit, supple tannins, milder acidity, extremely high alcohol (15.4%), ending with a delicious, lengthy hint of soft plums and toasty mocha on the finish. Irrepressibly powerful and Parkerized (also a tad baked), nonetheless boasting incredible structure, heft, and length. Aged for 30 months in French oak barriques, with 3,500 cases made. A worthy wine for wealthy collectors and ultra-fine dining establishments. Now-2016.
93     $129.95 (#711663)   Rogers & Company     (Licensee Price: $123.45)

Château de Beaucastel 2007,Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC, Rhône, France: From one of the finest estates in Châteauneuf. Brilliant, opaque purple-ruby colour. Toasty, with incredibly alluring, complex aromas of baked mocha, dried currants, dates, leather, tar, undergrowth, vanilla, and spice. Extremely youthful and very clean, with beautiful fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, ending with a lovely, lengthy hint of baked plums and light mocha on the finish. Delicious, classic Beaucastel, with superb balance, structure, refinement, and polish. One of the only estates to use all 13 permitted grape varietals in the final blend. Aged for 12 months in large (40 hl) French oak casks. Expensive, yet well worth the price for fine dining establishments and wealthy collectors. Now-2018.
93     $89.95 (#711317)   Charton Hobbs Inc.     (Licensee Price: $85.45)

Mission Hill 2007 Syrah, ‘SLC’,Okanagan Valley, British Columbia: Brilliant, opaque purple colour, with a touch of ruby. Toasty, with refined, inviting scents of dark fresh mocha, currants, plums, blackberries, leather, tar, earth, vanilla, and spice. Excitingly complex and clean, exhibiting beautiful, well-structured fruit, firm tannins, slightly milder acidity, and a lovely, lengthy hint of leathery plums on the finish. Exemplary Okanagan Syrah, with superb structure, balance, and refinement. One of the finest Syrahs I have yet to taste out of our beloved westernmost province. Reasonably priced and highly recommended. Now-2015.
92     $36.95 (#68379)   Mark Anthony Group     (Licensee Price: $35.10)

Luce Della Vite 2007 ‘Luce’,IGT Toscana, Italy: Brilliant, opaque red currant colour. Toasty, with immense, almost hedonistic aromas of dark chocolate, baked plums, currants, dates, earth, cedar, vanilla, and spice. Complex, clean, and incredibly smooth, with sumptuous fruit, supple tannins, balanced acidity, and a beautiful, very lengthy hint of dark mocha and stewed plums on the finish. Profound, powerful, and undeniably Parkerized (also baked); yet at the same time retaining superb structure, intensity, and balance (despite carrying a massive 15% alcohol). Harvested at an extremely low 30 hl/ha, the ’06 is a blend of 55% Merlot and 45% Sangiovese; and aged in 100% new French oak, with around 100,000 bottles made. Well-suited for wealthy collectors and fine dining establishments. Now-2016.
92     $99.95 (#685263)   Authentic Wine & Spirits Merchants     (Licensee Price: $94.95)

Sparking Wine:

Krug NV Brut, ‘Grande Cuvée’, Champagne AOC, France: One of the most extraordinary non-vintage Champagnes known to the winemaking world. Starbright, light lime colour. Exhibiting gorgeous aromas of fresh biscuits at the outset, seamlessly intermingling with refined notes of delicate pears, buttercups, creamy lemon, white flowers, pistachios, and the slightest hint of white truffles and spice. Exceedingly complex and clean, with beautiful crisp fruit, superb acidity, ending with an exquisite, lengthy hint of fresh biscuits and creamy pears on the finish. Spectacular ‘house’ Champagne, with brilliant structure, balance, refinement, and intensity. Drawn from wines aging 6 to 10 years of age, with the final blend often consisting of as many as 50 different wines! The perfect ‘house’ Champagne for the most distinguished collectors and ultra-fine dining establishments. Now-2018.
96     $269.95 (#38562)   Charton Hobbs Inc.     (Licensee Price: $256.45)

Dessert Wines:

Stratus 2007 Riesling Icewine, Niagara Peninsula VQA: Unequivocally one of the finest icewines I have ever tasted. Starbright, light yellow colour. Revealing gorgeous, intense scents of fresh apricot blossom at the outset, switching to honeyed brioche, lemon, nuts, and spice. Exceedingly complex and clean, with beautiful, well-defined fruit, balanced acidity, ending with a delicate, lingering hint of fresh apricot blossom and very sweet honeydew on the finish. Classic Riesling icewine in virtually every respect, with outstanding balance, delicateness, and refinement. Reasonably priced (even for just 200 mL) and very highly recommended. A real treasure. Now-2018.
95     $39.95 (#56671)   Status Vineyard     (Licensee Price: $37.95)

Inniskillin 2007 Riesling Icewine, Niagara Peninsula VQA: Unquestionably one of the finest icewines in Ontario year after year. Brilliant, medium golden-yellow colour. Exhibiting beautiful scents of fresh honey, lemony apricots, light tropical fruit, white flowers, and spice. Complex and extremely clean, with lovely soft fruit, balanced acidity, ending with a beautiful, delicate hint of sweet pineapple on the finish. Truly remarkable, with outstanding balance, elegance, and purity of character. Not in the least bit cloying. Expensive, yet well worth the price. Now-2018+.
93     $69.95 (#588288) 

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Julian Hitner's Sommelier Selects Report (November 13, 2009)
Penfolds - Peter Gago Tasting
& Portugal - my first day in Lisbon

For most enthusiasts, Penfolds and Portugal are two words not often heard in the same sentence (except when one accuses the other of misusing the word ‘Port’ on their labels). In this case, however, I have good reason for including the two together: I am currently in a Lisbon hotel room, and I need to catch up on my work, which just so happens to include a lovely Penfolds tasting and luncheon I recently attended at the fabulous Nota Bene restaurant (180 Queen St. West) in downtown Toronto.

     With head winemaker Peter Gago on hand to talk about his wines (and also sitting next to me during lunch so that I could ask him all sorts of questions), it was certainly an interesting tasting. And with only premium wines featured, it was easy to see just how impressive the most exclusive Penfolds wines can get.

     For whites, the ‘Yattarna’ 2006 Chardonnay (91/100, $125.00) was definitely the star of the show, displaying lovely nutted lemon citrus, beautiful balance, and delightful expression. Indeed, with each passing vintage, Penfolds’ ‘white Grange’ seems to be getting better and better, as Gago and his team continue to refine their sites and skills in their unrequited quest to establish Australia’s very own Montrachet wine. Needless to say, Gago and his crew are quite an ambitious bunch of individuals, but at least they are definitely starting to see some serious results. For my part, I am happy to recommend the ’06 as a lovely addition to any fine wine list in our weather-challenged city.

     Of course, it goes without saying that Penfolds shall always be known for the quality of its red wines beyond all other things. From Coonawarra, the ‘Bin 128’ 2006 Shiraz (90/100, 34.95) is a uniquely impressive effort: powerful, yet balanced, focused, and extremely confident, revealing refined notes of leathery plums, blackberries, mint, and spice. From South Australia, the ‘St Henri’ 2005 Shiraz (91/100, $75.00) also seems particularly attractive, boasting inviting notes of dark blackberries, leather, and spice. Quite smooth and undeniably delicious. Perfect for the cellar.

     Moving forward, the next wine (which I care to highlight) was even more prodigious: the ‘RWT’ 2006 Shiraz (93/100, $150.00), with 100% of the grapes sourced exclusively from the Barossa Valley. Even at this stage of its life, the ’06 was showing immense allurement and promise, revealing beautifully fresh notes of mocha (albeit slightly baked), leathery plums, currants, and spice. Rather firm at present, this will age an extremely long time. A wine of immense pride for Gago and his team.

     Pressing forward, the final two reds were absolutely brilliant, not to mention beyond the price range of most enthusiasts and fine dining establishments. Then again, when money is no object (an omnipresent theme for this month), what does it matter? First off, the beautiful ‘Bin 707’ 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon (94/100, $175.00), one of the finest of its type I have been privy to taste (from Australia) in a very long time. Complex, smooth, and extremely well structured, the ’06 is supremely poignant in both its level of intensity and corresponding refinement, offering beautiful aromas and flavours of dark mocha, currants, leather, and spice. Easily cellarable for up to twenty years, and a superb offering to have on any ultra-premium list.

     Finally, we come to Penfolds’ pride and joy, as well as the most iconic wine of Australia: the ‘Grange’ 2004 Shiraz (98/100, $499.00). Without question, this is the finest Australian wine (bottle #43011) I have ever tasted. Bright, opaque ruby colour, the first aromas one seems to detect are fresh baker’s chocolate and toast, which later gives way to black leathery plums and currants, mulberries, blueberries, cocoa, earth, leather, graphite, vanilla, and spice. On the palate: extraordinarily smooth, with astonishing fruit expression, sublime tannic structure, and an exceedingly lengthy hint of mocha, leather, and baked blackberries on the finish. With 4% Cabernet Sauvignon added to the final blend, one could not help but silently contemplate the seamlessness, power, and individual character of this miraculous wine. For the most exclusive dining establishments of this city, the choice seems clear: acquire and tender!

     As one can easily see, it was with unrequited pleasure to have taken part in this beautiful tasting. My compliments to Mr. Gago for his exemplary guidance, generosity, and insight throughout the course of the afternoon, as well as to the team at Nota Bene for a superlative midday lunching experience. The Cumbrae Farms 8 o/z striploin (paired with the ‘Bin 707’) was absolutely delicious, along with everything else set in front me.

Portugal - My First Day in Lisbon

    At this point, we must now shift gears entirely, and turn our attention to Portugal, my host country for the next six days. As I hinted at the outset, it must seem rather odd that I would choose to include two distinctly different arenas of winemaking in a single column. This being said, it is with a sense of immense satisfaction and pride that I am able to discuss (albeit rather briefly) how pleasurable my stay in Lisbon has been thus far.

     Arriving in Lisbon on Wednesday morning and not having any engagements until the evening (in Portugal, the evening begins no sooner than 9:00 P.M.), I decided to use what little free time I was going to have over the next week to explore the bustling downtown of this beautiful capital. Five hours (and several foot sores) later, I returned to my hotel and met up with my hosts for the evening, two very kind young gentlemen from Viniportugal, the organization putting on the Touriga Nacional contest the next day, of which I was going to be one of several judges. More on this in my next column.

     That night, we dined at the Faz Figura Restaurant, a lovely modern establishment that offered a beautiful view of the bay. An unusually relaxing affair, we started with a delightful bottle of Herdade do Esporao 2008 Verdelho, VR Alentejano (87/100), which offered just the right degree of light lemony pears, crispness, and freshness that I so desperate needed after a long day of trekking and touring. Rather surprisingly, this paired perfectly with the ‘Fois Gras Terrine’ I had ordered, brilliantly flavoured with lovely delicate spices, apple, and Madeira wine. For my main course, I ordered stewed rabbit with bean purée and pears. This was paired with a superb bottle of Gouvyas 2004 ‘Vinhas Velhas’ (Old Vines), DOC Douro (92/100). Without question, the Douro is fast becoming the winegrowing region Portugal where some of the finest reds in he country are being produced.

Thus, with my first day in Lisbon at an end and my work for the evening concluded, I can now catch up on one other type of work --- sleep. Indeed, from planes and pains to Penfolds and Portugal, it has truly been a long day. More on my Portuguese odyssey next week.

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Julian Hitner's Sommelier Selects Report (November 6, 2009)
Halpern ‘Grand Cru’ portfolio tasting
& Vintages November 7th Release

For wealthy collectors and ultra-fine dining establishments, Halpern Enterprises (416.593.2662) is unquestionably one of the finest agencies in the country, representing around several dozen of the most respected estates in the winemaking world. Each year, brothers Todd and Colin make these extraordinary wines available for clients and wine writers to examine (and possibly purchase) at their annual ‘Grand Cru’ portfolio tasting, usually held somewhere in downtown Toronto.

     If money is no object, then this is a tasting you ought not to miss! Excepting the Bordeaux Grand Cru tasting (held every two years at the Four Seasons Hotel), the Halpern ‘Grand Cru’ portfolio tasting features more ultra-premium wines than practically any other tasting held throughout the year in our fair city. All the more reason on such an occasion to make proper use of Toronto’s inglorious (yet functional) taxiing services.

     This year, the fifth annual Halpern ‘Grand Cru’ tasting was held at the Allstream Centre (formally the Automotive Building), located just beyond the Princes’ Gates, at Exhibition Place. With a live elephant and camel out front to great arriving guests, you not be in error in thinking that sheer opulence was the order of the day. And opulent it was, with representatives from some of the most respected houses around the world on hand to pour their wares. For six hours, I roamed this hall of tables displaying open bottles of ultra-fine wine, pen and pad in hand as always, recording my observations and observances with admirable due diligence.

     For whites, my favourite of the evening goes to the Paul Jaboulet Aîne 2006 ‘Chevalier de Stérimberg’ Hermitage Blanc (93/100, $109.15), indisputably the finest white Rhône I have yet to taste from the marvellous ’06 vintage. Vibrant, distinctive, and incredibly fresh, the ’06 ‘Stérimberg’ boasted beautiful nutted aromatics with combined nuances of temperate fruit and slightly honeyed characteristics. Simply wonderful.

     For reds, the Gaja 2004 Barbaresco (96/100, Currently Unavailable) was a mastery of precision, structure, freshness, and refinement; positively my favourite wine of the entire event, as well as the finest Barbaresco I have yet to taste from the astounding ’04 vintage. Unabashedly complex and downright intoxicating, Angelo Gaja typically sources the grapes for his ‘straight up’ Barbaresco from around ten different vineyards throughout the DOCG, aiming for steadiness and refinement above else. Needless to say, the results speak for themselves.

     Of course, not all fine wines have to cost a (proverbial) arm and leg -- OHIP would never permit it. For the upcoming Vintages November 7th release, the theme is ‘Celebrate for less: 20 Party Wines Under $20.’ With the holiday season just around the corner, it should not come as a surprise that the LCBO would feature such wines in an early-November release; though (as you shall see below), only four of my eleven suggestions fall below the twenty-dollar threshold. Regardless, I think readers shall be pleased with the selections I have made.

     For whites, my top pick of the release (not necessarily in terms of highest score) goes to the Blind River 2008 Sauvignon Blanc (89/100, $19.95), a textbook Marlborough Sauvignon in virtually every respect: incorrigibly zesty, mineral-laden, and filled to the brim with grassy-gooseberry scents and flavours. Without question, wine enthusiasts around the world (myself included) can’t seem to get enough of this stuff. In fact, despite ever-changing trends and demographics, Marlborough winemakers have told me on more than one occasion that they still cannot produce enough Sauvignon Blanc to satisfy demand. And what does it matter, as long as overall quality remains (relatively) high?

     Turing our attention to reds, my number one suggestion for readers is theMontes ‘Alpha’ 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (89/100, $19.95). With fresh black currants and mocha, great structure, and not a trace of greenness, this is what quality Chilean Cabernet is all about. All too often, sommeliers and wine writers tend to pick up notes of overbearing cassis and (even) green pepper on the nose and palate from lesser-quality Chilean red wines. Such aromatics and flavours are often signs that the wine has been crafted from grapes that have been either overcropped and/or underripe. With this in mind, it is a pleasure to recommend a wine that not only does not feature such characteristics, but also demonstrates the extent to which truly fine Chilean wine does not have to break the bank.

    In the end, there is always something for everyone, from the most luxurious wines that Halpern Enterprises has to offer to some really fine, well-priced wines that can be enjoyed by a great number of enthusiasts, as well as included on a vast majority of fine dining lists. On the other hand, when only the best will do, at least restaurant sommeliers and wealthy collectors shall always know where to turn.

(A) Here are my top suggestions from the Halpern ‘Grand Cru’ tasting (agency fees included in licensee price):

White Wines:

Paul Jaboulet Aîne 2006 ‘Chevalier de Stérimberg’, Hermitage (Blanc) AOC, Rhône, France: Believe it or not, Hermitage Blanc has the same potential for aging as its red counterpart, not to mention the same ambition for excellence. The ’06 ‘Chevalier de Stérimberg’ is no exception. Starbright, light lime colour, with the slightest touch of yellow. Decidedly complex, with beautiful scents of nutted quince, white honeysuckle and flowers, pears, and a lovely hint of spice. Very clean, with exemplary fruit, balanced acidity, and a wonderful hint of nutted quince and pears on the finish. Superlative Hermitage Blanc, with vibrant distinctiveness, balance, and overall refinement. A blend of 65% Marsanne and 35% Roussanne, typically harvested at yields of 30 hl/ha. Ideal for collectors and fine dining establishments. Now-2018.
93     $109.15   Halpern Enterprises     (Licensee Price: $108.61)

Domaine Dujac 2007 Chardonnay, Morey-St-Denis (Blanc) AOC, Burgundy, France:Starbright, pale-light lime colour. Remarkably delicate, with enticing scents of freshly nutted quince, pears, yellow plums, dried honeysuckle, and a lovely hint of lemon and spice. Complex and very clean, with beautiful fruit, balanced acidity, ending with a very subtle hint of delicate nutted pears on the finish. Beautifully crafted, displaying superb balance, freshness, and subtlety. From one of the most respected producers in Morey-St-Denis, and a worthy wine for collectors. Now-2014.
91+     $67.40   Halpern Enterprises     (Licensee Price: $67.07)

Red Wines:

Gaja 2004 Nebbiolo,Barbaresco DOCG, Piedmont, Italy:Unquestionably one of the finest Barbarescos I have ever had the privilege of tasting. Brilliant, dark-opaque ruby colour. Supremely inviting and complex, with sensational aromas of dark mocha and cherries at the outset, giving way to wild black plums, crème brûlée, exotic tealeaves, and a beautiful hint of earth, vanilla, and spice -- perhaps even a trace of white truffles. Remarkably clean, with extraordinary fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, concluding with a beautiful, lengthy hint of dark elegant cherries on the finish. Astonishing and individualistic, with seamless structure, balance, and depth. Worth every penny -- an absolute must-have for both wealthy collectors and ultra-fine dining establishments, with 5,000 cases made. Now-2018.
96     Currently Unavailable (Private Order Might Be Possible)

Ceretto 2004 Nebbiolo, ‘Bricco Roche’, Barolo DOCG, Piedmont, Italy: Astonishing to say the least. Brilliant, dark red-garnet colour. Extraordinarily complex: toasty, with tempting aromas of white cedary mocha, switching to fresh red plums and cherries, tealeaves, tar, light graham crackers, and the slightest trace of white truffles, earth, vanilla, and spice. Impeccably clean, with exceptional fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, and a beautiful, elegant hint of cedary mocha and wild red plums on the finish. Sensational Barolo, with remarkable individuality, structure, balance, and breed. Best suited for the most discerning of collectors and ultra-fine dining establishments, with 600 cases made. Now-2018.
95     $229.00   Halpern Enterprises     (Licensee Price: $227.87)

Paul Jaboulet Aîne 2005 Syrah, ‘La Chapelle’,Hermitage AOC, Rhône, France:From the outstanding ’05 vintage. Brilliant, opaque ruby colour. Starting off toasty and intensely leathery, with beautiful, complex aromas of brambling currants and plums, baked blackberries, tar, graham crackers, and a hint of earth, vanilla, and spice. Complex and exceedingly clean, with exemplary fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, and gorgeous, lengthy hint of brambling, leathery plums on the finish. Positively foreboding, powerful, and polished, boasting terrific structure, balance, and long-term cellaring potential. Harvested at extremely low yields of 10 to 18 hl/ha, and aged in small oak barrels. Ideal for wealthy collectors and ultra-premium dining establishments. Now-2020.
94++     $149.00   Halpern Enterprises     (Licensee Price: $148.26)

Gaja 2004 Sangiovese, ‘Pieve Santa Restituta’,Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany, Italy:One of the top ’04 Brunellos I have yet to taste. Brilliant, dark-opaque ruby colour. Toasty, with exquisite aromas of fresh cherried mocha, accompanied by dark plums, wild blackberries and currants, along with a beautiful hint of cedar, vanilla, and spice. Excitingly complex and brilliantly clean, displaying exceptional fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, and delicious, lengthy hint of dark, fresh cedary cherries on the finish. Impeccable wine, with superb structure, balance, refinement, and freshness. Highly recommended for wealthy collectors and fine dining establishments, alike. Now-2018. 94+     Currently Unavailable (Private Order Might Be Possible)

Biondi Santi 2004 Sangiovese, ‘Tenuta Greppo’,Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany, Italy: A beautiful offering from one of Montalcino’s most historically acclaimed estates. Brilliant, dark ruby-red colour. Toasty and decidedly complex, with beautiful, alluring aromas of dried cherries (intermixed with a hint of chestnuts), giving way to red berries and plums, earth, leather, and the slightest hint of vanilla and spice. Distinctly complex and clean, boasting remarkable, more traditional-styled fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, ending with a lovely hint of elegant cedary plums on the finish. Exceptional Brunello, with amazing complexity, balance, structure, and breed. An obvious choice for both wealthy collectors and premium dining establishments. Now-2018.
94     $170.90   Halpern Enterprises     (Licensee Price: $170.05)

Poderi Aldo Conterno 2004 Nebbiolo,Barolo DOCG, Piedmont, Italy: Another marvellous offering from one of Piedmont’s most celebrated estates. Brilliant, dark garnet colour. Starting off toasty and (elegantly) cedary, with gorgeous, yet delicate aromas of red plums, dried cherries, wild red licorice, exotic tealeaves, and a lovely hint of rose pedals, vanilla, and spice. Remarkably complex and clean, with beautiful fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, ending with a refined, lingering hint of wild spicy cherries on the finish. Refreshingly traditional, with superb balance, structure, complexity, and character. A top choice for ultra-fine dining establishments and wealthy collectors. Now-2016.
93++     $120.90   Halpern Enterprises     (Licensee Price: $120.30)

Poderi Aldo Conterno 2005 Barbera, ‘Conca Tre Pile’,Barbera DOC, Piedmont, Italy: Brilliant, dark-opaque ruby colour. Toasty, with beautiful, enticing aromas of fresh cherries and plums, switching to mocha, dried blackberries, fresh earth (slightly cedary), light undergrowth, vanilla, and spice. Complex, clean, and quite smooth, displaying magnificent fruit, fine tannins, balanced acidity, and a lovely, lasting hint elegant toasted cherries and red plums on the finish. Truly exemplary, with superb balance, elegance, and structure. Unquestionably one of the finest Barberas I have ever tasted. Ultimately, restaurant sommeliers should not hold back on ordering several cases of this impeccable wine. Now-2015+.
92     $52.65   Halpern Enterprises     (Licensee Price: $52.39)

Domaine Dujac 2007 Pinot Noir,Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts Premier Cru AOC, Burgundy, France: Brilliant, medium ruby colour. Incredibly reserved at this stage, revealing very delicate, alluring aromas of toast, ripe raspberried cherries, red plums, light rhubarb, and a lovely hint of violets and spice. Complex and very clean, with beautiful fruit, fine tannins, balanced acidity, and a lovely, lingering hint of rhubarb-cherries on the finish. Exemplary wine, with great structure, balance, refinement, and complexity. Wealthy collectors will definitely want to get their hands on this. Now-2015. 92     $168.20   Halpern Enterprises     (Licensee Price: $163.34)

(B) Here are my top suggestions from the November 7th Vintages release (licensee prices are those if purchased from LCBO outlets):

White Wines:

Schloss Reinhartshausen 2003 Riesling Spätlese, Erbacher Schlossberg, Rheingau, Germany: Starbright, light yellow-lime colour. Exhibiting elegant, inviting scents of fresh lemony petrol, lime, honeysuckle (gently minty), and a lovely hint of spice. Complex and very clean, with beautiful fruit, balanced acidity, and a delicate hint of fresh honeysuckle on the finish. Superb Spätlese, with near-exquisite character, balance, and style. Reasonably priced and highly recommended. Now-2014.
91     $28.95 (#129858)   H.H.D. Imports     (Licensee Price: $27.50)

Malivoire 2008 Gewürztraminer, Beamsville Bench VQA, Niagara Peninsula: Brilliant, light straw-lime colour. Intensely spicy at the outset, with beautiful scents of exotic lychee, melon, mild honeysuckle, wild flowers, congee, and a hint of white grapefruit. Complex and very clean, boasting lovely spicy fruit, balanced acidity, which extends delightfully onto the finish. Exemplary wine, with great balance, intensity, and style. Reasonably priced. Screwcap closure. Now-2013+.
89+     $24.95 (#542522)   Imprese Inc.     (Licensee Price: $23.70)

Blind River 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand: Brilliant, light lime colour. Invitingly tropical at the outset, with refreshing scents of zesty grass, gooseberries, lemon, white grapefruit, and a hint of dried apricots and spice. Clean and delightfully crisp, with lovely minerally fruit, balanced acidity, ending off with an enduring hint of grassy gooseberries (and perhaps a trace of cat’s pee) on the finish. Very well crafted: stylish, balanced, and remarkably fresh. Reasonably priced, with around 8,000 cases made. Screwcap closure. Now-2010.
89     $19.95 (#141499)   Imprese Inc.     (Licensee Price: $18.95)

Flat Rock Cellars 2007 Chardonnay, Twenty Mile Bench VQA, Niagara Peninsula: Starbright, medium lime colour. Toasty, with intense notes of hazelnuts, pears, white flowers, and a hint of dried lemon, honeysuckle, and butterscotch. Clean, with lovely fruit, balanced acidity, and a delightful hint of freshly dried pears on the finish. Impressive, balanced Niagara Chardonnay, displaying very good freshness and overall structure. Reasonably priced and licensee recommended. Screwcap closure. Now-2011.
88     $16.95 (#681247)   Flat Rock Cellars     (Licensee Price: $16.10)

Red Wines:

Tenuta San Guido 2006 ‘Sassicaia’,Bolgheri-Sassicaia DOC, Tuscany, Italy: One of the most prestigious wines in Italy. Brilliant, opaque red colour. Toasty, with beautiful, almost hedonistic aromas of fresh cedary mocha, switching to red currants, plums (slightly baked), dried black cherries, earth, vanilla, and spice. Complex and extremely clean, with very fine, delicious fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, and a lingering hint of dried mocha and plums on the finish. Indeed quite gorgeous, with superb balance, structure, and breed -- though I would be remiss in not pointing out that the wine does seem ever-so slightly baked (tasted twice from two separate bottles). A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc; and aged for 24 months in one-third new French oak barriques (225 litres), with around 15,000 cases made. Ultimately recommended for wealthy collectors and ultra-fine restaurants. Now-2015+.
92     $184.95 (#480533)   Whitehall Agencies Inc.     (Licensee Price: $175.70)

Grant Burge 2007 Shiraz, ‘Filsell Old Vine’,Barossa, Australia: Bright, opaque purple colour.  Toasty, with powerful, enveloping aromas of eucalyptus, mocha, currants, plums, cedar, mint, tar, leather, vanilla, and spice. Very complex, clean, and smooth, with great fruit, supple tannins, mild acidity, and a lengthy hint of eucalyptus and plums on the finish. Sumptuous, powerful, and capable of long-term cellaring. Aged for 20 months in new and two-year-old French and American oak barrels, as well as a small proportion of French oak hogsheads (normally 300 litres). Reasonably priced and recommended for enthusiasts of ultra-powerful Shiraz. Now-2016.
91+     $29.95 (#987453)   Calibrium International     (Licensee Price: $28.45)

Château Les Roches de Ferrand 2005,Fronsac AOC, Bordeaux, France: Brilliant, dark-opaque ruby colour. Toasty, with lovely, inviting aromas of fresh mocha, giving way to red currants and plums, light black cherries, earth, tar, and a hint of graham crackers, vanilla, and spice. Complex and clean, with fine fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, ending with an elegant hint of dark mocha and plums on the finish. Truly impressive, with great structure, balance (despite 14% alcohol), and refinement. Reasonably priced and licensee recommended. Now-2015.
89+     $24.95 (#138669)   Signature Wines & Spirits     (Licensee Price: $23.70)

Montes 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, ‘Alpha’,Apalta Vineyard (Colchagua Valley), Chile: Bright, opaque ruby colour. Toasty, with lovely aromas of fresh black currants, mocha, plums, white pepper, earth, and a hint of vanilla and spice -- perhaps a delicate touch of cassis, as well. Complex and clean, with well-structured fruit, fine tannins, milder acidity, and a hint of fresh currants on the finish. Delightfully crafted, with great structure, polish, and balance (despite carrying 14.5% alcohol). Also contains 10% Merlot. Nicely priced. Now-2014.
89     $19.95 (#322586)   Whitehall Agencies Inc.     (Licensee Price: $18.95)

Magpie Estate 2006 Shiraz, ‘The Sack’,Barossa Valley, Australia: Bright, opaque purple-ruby colour. Toasty, with delightful notes of cedary eucalyptus, mocha, baked plums, currants, leather, vanilla, and spice. Clean, with smooth, flavoursome fruit, supple tannins, mild acidity, ending with a lengthy hint of cedary eucalyptus and plums on the finish. Immensely inviting, with very good structure, approachability, and balance (despite carrying 14.5% alcohol). Well suited for the cellar, but can easily be enjoyed now. Reasonably priced. Screwcap closure. Now-2014+.
89     $20.95 (#94078)   B & W Wines     (Licensee Price: $19.90)

Nuova Cappelletta 2007 Barbera,Barbera del Monferrato DOC, Piedmont, Italy: Brilliant, opaque ruby colour. Toasty, with attractive scents of dark plums, light mocha, currants, black cherries, and a hint of earth and spice -- almost claret-like. Clean, with very good fruit, fine tannins, balanced acidity, and a delightful hint of fresh dark plums on the finish. Appealing, well-crafted Barbera, with good structure, balance, and (even) depth. Reasonably priced and licensee recommended. Now-2012+.
88     $16.95 (#719518)   Joseph Cipelli Wines & Spirits     (Licensee Price: $16.10)

Sparking Wine:

Bollinger NV Brut, ‘Special Cuvée’, Champagne AOC, France: Starbright, light straw colour. Exhibiting beautiful, complex scents of fresh biscuits, switching to creamy lemon, pistachios, pears, white flowers, grapefruit, and the slightest hint of dried honeysuckle. Clean and crisp, with very fine fruit, great acidity, ending with a lengthy, well-structured hint of biscuity pears on the finish. Superb, dynamic house Champagne, with first-rate structure, balance, and overall refinement. (Usually) a blend of 60% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay, and 15% Pinot Meunier. Acceptably priced for the quality and easily recommendable for fine dining establishments across the city. Now-2014.
92     $79.95 (#384529)   Imprese Inc.     (Licensee Price: $75.95)

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Julian Hitner's Sommelier Selects Report (October 30, 2009)
A Magnificent Blind Austrian Wine Tasting

For wine writers like me, the best way to examine wine is to taste it ‘blind’ -- that is, without knowing exactly what the wine is. This can easily be accomplished by having a friend or (cheerful) colleague affix a roll of tin foil (or even a cloth bag) over a bottle. Without knowing precisely what we are tasting, we as wine writers are better able to analyse a specific wine with a critical near-assurance of impartiality … at least ideally. Of course, there is catch: if you aren’t careful, you could end up ranking a notoriously lousy wine 95 points (or vice versa). And then, there is always the issue of being able to identify the exact wine from having tasted it only recently. Does one change the score if the wine is better (or worse) this time round, or does one leave it the same? As you can see, blind tastings are not as straightforward as they may seem.

     Take a recent premium Austrian tasting I participated in with around a dozen other tasters, from wine writers to sommeliers (and even one Master of Wine). Titled ‘Austria is Cool!,’ the event (which was also repeated in Singapore and New York) was hosted by Michael Thurner of Austria’s Fine Brands, a relatively new wine agency in the Ontario market. The location? The private residence of Austrian Vice Council Robert Luck. Rather humourously, Mr. Luck was not able to attend; and with no S.W.A.T. teams being called on the scene, he can rest assured that we were very gracious guests.

     In the course of the evening, we tasted a total of twenty-three wines, presented in eight flights, all tasted blind. Like most comparative blind tastings, the purpose of the evening was to show that the finest Austrian wines could compete with their finest counterparts from other winegrowing nations, in this case those of France. Thus, in each of the flights, an ultra-premium French ‘ringer’ was added to the mix. Straightforward enough, at least on first glance.

     The first flight consisted of two Grüner Veltliners and one ringer, the latter turning out to be the glorious Domaine Leflaive 2007 Puligny-Montrachet ‘Les Purcelles’ (92/100). Suffice it to say, the ‘Purcelles’, one of the finest Premier Crus in the entire appellation, tasted so different (and so much superior) from the two Grüners that its inclusion in the flight seemed almost superfluous, so very refined, delicately pronounced, and incredibly complex as it was. This aside, my favourite Grüner was the Weingut Huber 2006 Berg, Traisental DAC (89+/100), displaying beautiful complexity, firmness, and maturity. By now, it has become all but written into law what is considered to be Austria’s most famous grape varietal. The question remains, as time progresses, will future vintages turn out ever-greater wines? From the looks of the things, this would seem to be the case. An odd flight of wines in any event.

     The next flight consisted of two Austrian Rieslings (no ringer in this flight). On this occasion, both wines were remarkably equal in terms of quality. And yet, I found the Jurtschitsch 2007 Zöbinger Heiligenstein, Kamptal (89+/100) to be slightly superior of the two, with lovely delicate spiciness, nervy fruit, and precision. The other, the Weingut Huber 2007 Berg, Traisental DAC (89/100), was far more mineral-laden, lemony, and firm; nonetheless very beautiful. Indeed, there is no question that Austrian winemakers (particularly those of the Niederösterreich subregions) are now capable of producing some of the finest cool-climate Rieslings in the world. And the best thing about this is that they taste remarkably different from the finest wines of Germany or Alsace. Hence, their exclusion as ringers in the tasting; though this still doesn’t explain the ‘Purcelles’ -- you will forgive me if I seem to overly dwell on this matter.

    The following flight proved to be particularly interesting. Of three Sauvignon Blancs, the ringer was the Didier Dagueneau 2006 ‘Silex’ Pouilly-Fumé (89/100), one of the most sought-after dry table wines in the Loire. In the Austrians’ favour, my favourite of the flight was the Weingut Tement 2006 Zieregg, Steiermark (90/100), superbly elegant, focused, and stylish. Though it might surprise some, some of Austria’s finest Sauvignon Blancs are derived from its more southerly regions, particularly Steiermark (or Styria). Though prices may vary from perfectly reasonable to questionably expensive (like so many other places in the world), this is certainly a region for sommeliers and enthusiasts to seriously keep an eye on. Rest assured that I’ll do my part.

     Switching to reds, the next flight was one of the most contentious of the evening. Of three Pinot Noirs, the ringer was the Méo-Camuzet 2006 Clos Vougeot (90/100). Keeping in mind that all of these wines were tasted blind, I was amazed to discover that my favourite wine of the flight was not the Vougeot Grand Cru, but the Markowitsch 2006 Pinot Noir ‘Reserve’, Carnuntum (91/100). To be perfectly honest, I was convinced that I might have accidentally mixed my glasses around, as I was certain that one of them was a Vougeot! Excuses aside, while most of us where in agreement that the Vougeot was not performing up to speck, there was no question that the Markowitsch ‘Reserve’ was truly well done, with elegant fresh cherries, great complexity, and beautiful balance. Across the table from me was Tony Aspler, who was equally convinced (prior to revelation) that it was somewhere from the golden slopes of Côtes du Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin as I recall. Good on the Austrians with this flight in mastering this ever-troublesome grape: even in the New York and Singapore tastings, the Vougeot was not considered to be the top Pinot Noir in their respective flights.

     Moving on, the proceeding round featured two wines crafted from the controversial St. Laurent varietal, with the M. Chapoutier 2004 Ermitage ‘Le Pavillon’ (90/100) included as the ringer. Though very complex and refined, this particular bottle of ‘Le Pavillon’ was not (like the Méo-Camuzet) performing as well as should have been expected, especially when considering the price. Regardless, for this flight my preference ended in a tie, with the Pittnauer 2004 ‘Alte Reben’ St. Laurent (‘Old Vines’), Neusiedlersee (90/100) sharing matching esteem with the one of the most prestigious wines of the northern Rhône. Superb stuff, with lovely spicy red currants, structure, and polish, many of us were truly impressed with the overall quality of this wine. Coincidently, the New York tasting panel ended up awarding these two wines the exact same ranking as I did! A tribute to the efforts of Gerhard and Brigitte Pittnauer, whose ’06 ‘Alte Reben’ ought to serve as a prime example of the quality that St. Laurent can reach if judiciously cultivated.

     The following flight was where the gloves truly came off: ‘Super Austrians,’ with the stupendous Château Mouton-Rothschild 2004 Pauillac (96/100) serving as the ringer. Though the two Austrian contenders gave a good fight, nothing came close to the classic brilliance of the ’04 Mouton, supremely confident in all its glory: robust, profound, surprisingly silky, and opulent without excess. This being said, I was also seriously impressed with the Weninger 2004 ‘Cuvée Veratina’, Horitschon, Mittelburgenland (91/100). A blend of 50% Blaufränkisch, 20% Zweigelt, 25% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet, it displayed great firmness, lovely balance, and a very distinctive personality. A beautiful, compelling Austrian blend.

     Nearing the home stretch, the next flight consisted of very similar wines to the previous round, the ringer being the extraordinary Château Margaux 2004 (95/100). As expected, this glorious First Growth trumped its Austrian competitors, with brilliant stylization, profoundness, and depth. And yet, the Weninger 2004 ‘Dürrau’, Horitschon, Mittelburgenland (91/100) was also remarkably impressive in its own right. 100% Blaufränkisch, it boasted beautiful aromatic plums, power, structure, and focus. Indeed, Austrian vintners are certainly capable of producing more than there fair share of sensational red wines.

    At this point, however, it should be noted that for most wine writers (particularly those with fairly ‘Europeanized’ palates), First Growths shall always stick out like a deliciously sore thumb. Looking at the rankings of our counterparts in New York, it was little surprise on learning that neither First Growth was ranked first in their respective flights, no doubt a (contestable) illustration of Americans’ preference for power over reservedness in their wines. As for the Singapore panel, because their tasting was arranged in a slightly differently manner (with a couple of different ringers put in place of those poured in Toronto and New York), it would not be entirely fair to comment on their rankings. Either way, for my Canadian colleagues and I, none of us could deny that the Austrian counterparts of the First Growths did not seem out of place in being placed next to some of the most magnificent red wines in the world. A credit to the remarkable quality of their red wines.

     Pressing on, the final flight featured three beautiful stickies, the ringer being none other than the venerable Château d’Yquem 2005 Sauternes (92/100). Rather unrevealing at only four years of age and unquestionably brilliant and complex in its own right, the d’Yquem (which always seems ‘asleep’ at such a young age) was simply outdone by the superior Weingut Tschida 2005 Chardonnay Trockenbeerenauslese, Lüss, Neusiedlersee (93/100). Superbly elegant, with beautiful sweet citrus fruit and length, this is one of the finest dessert Chardonnays I have ever tasted. Also worthy of mention is the Weingut Tschida 2005 Sämling (Scheurebe) Trockenbeerenauslese, Neusiedlersee (92/100). Receiving the same praise as d’Yquem, the sweet citrus notes were even more profound here than on the Chardonnay, though perhaps just slightly less rounded out. This notwithstanding, there is no question that the finest sweet wines of Austria can be easily ranked among the finest stickies in the world.

     The evening concluded, it ought to seem clear by now that blind tastings are not always easy affairs. In this case, however, there is no question that this particular evening of tasting was filled with a lovely array of very fine wines. Sometimes, an Austrian entry won out, other times a First Growth or a Chardonnay (the latter pitted against two Grüners). Either way, there is truly no mistaking the quality of fine Austrian wines; and it only remains to be seen if more of such wines shall appear on the shelves of LCBO stores in the future.

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Julian Hitner's Sommelier Selects Report (October 23, 2009)
Vintages October 24 Release

                With so much attention constantly being awarded to Australia’s reds, it is regrettable that many of Oz’s finer white wines are often overlooked. Granted, a few serious articles on the subject (outside of Australia) might appear here and there; and yet many of these articles have had, at least arguably, only a very minimal impact on the extent to which people in the trade are willing at add such wines to their lists. This being said, it does seem clear that a growing number of tradespeople (and enthusiasts) have come to firmly believe that the white wines being produced in Australia are worth far more attention than they have (at least until recently) been given, from beautifully styled Riesling to wonderfully balanced Chardonnay.

     Turning then, to the upcoming October 24th Vintages release, the theme is Australia’s Local Heroes: Exploring Aussie Terroir and Regionality; plus Port: Vintage, Tawny and Beyond. This week, it is my pleasure to recommend three very beautiful Australian whites from three distinctly different parts of the continent. Quite unusually, I have awarded each of them the exact same score, while my comments for them, as you can see below, are remarkably different; though a little lemon and lime (in varying degrees) can be found in each of them. In terms of overall value, the Xanadu 2008 Chardonnay (89/100, #27888) would seem to stand out as one of the finest whites I have ever tasted from this particular winery, displaying beautiful integration, balance, and structure. Another fitting example of the success winemakers in Margaret River have had with this often-abused (i.e. over-cropped and overoaked) grape. Such a wine can be easily added to a fine wine list at the expense of removing a lesser-quality (and similarly priced) French or Californian counterpart.

     Outside of Australia, my top white of the week goes to the Pala Crabilis 2008 Vermentino (89/100, #52068), one of the finest, freshest Sardinian whites I have tasted in a very long time, boasting lovely crispness, balance, and style. At this price, a busy restaurant sommelier could sell a case of this every night, offering it both by the bottle and glass. Believe me, this particular grape is well suited to guests overtly (and overly) attached to Pinot Grigio.

     Concerning reds, a great wine to add to any fine wine list is the Bodegas Beronia 2005 Reserva (88+/100, #50203), a very fine, well-crafted Rioja. 100% Tempranillo, it serves as a beautiful introduction for guests who might not be entirely familiar with one of Spain’s most illustrious, reinvented winegrowing regions and grape varietals. For premium wine buyers, the Zenato 2005 Amarone della Valpolicella (92/100, #412179) [tasting note also included in VA Buying Guide] is also not to be missed, revealing remarkable fullness, intensity, and balance. And with the weather quickly becoming cooler, this is precisely the time of year to start opening up those robust, muscular reds, just like this one. Only be sure to remember that a crisp, well-crafted Aussie white can be a lovely drop this time of year, as well. No sense in missing out on some truly vibrant wines just because of a little decrease in temperature -- very un-Canadian.

Here are my top suggestions from the October 24th Vintages Release:

White Wines:

Pala Crabilis 2008 Vermentino, Vermentino di Sardegna DOC, Italy: Starbright, light yellow-lime colour. Exhibiting inviting scents of fresh leafy lemon, Golden Delicious apples, dried pears, and a hint of melon, white flowers, and spice. Complex and clean, with lovely crisp fruit, balanced acidity, and a beautiful hint of golden autumnal leaves on the finish. One of the finest Vermentinos I have ever tasted, with great balance, style, and overall freshness. Very reasonably priced and highly recommended -- a superb wine to offer by the glass. Now-2010.
89     $13.95 (#52068)   Joseph Cipelli Wines & Spirits     (Licensee Price: $13.25)

Shaw & Smith 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, Adelaide Hills, Australia: Starbright, pale lime colour. Exhibiting fresh notes of light, pebbly pears, lime, lemon, white grapefruit, and the slightest hint of Kiwi-style gooseberries. Clean, with good purity of fruit, balanced acidity, and a delightful hint of fresh limy grass on the finish. Great Sauvignon Blanc, with very good balance, freshness, and style. One of the benchmark dry whites of Australia. Acceptably priced. Screwcap closure. Now-2011+.
89     $24.95 (#965335)   Lifford Agencies     (Licensee Price: $23.70)

Tamar Ridge 2008 Riesling, ‘Devil’s Corner’, Tasmania, Australia: Starbright, pale-light lime. Exhibiting intense, inviting scents of fresh, crisp lime, lemon, pears, quince, white grapefruit peel, and a hint of spice. Clean and crisp, with lovely limy fruit, balanced acidity, extending very tastily onto the finish. Beautiful Riesling, with great balance, structure, and polish. From one of the finest producers on this once-hellish island. Reasonably priced and recommended. Now-2013+.
89     $18.95 (#138289)   Appellation Wines     (Licensee Price: $18.00)

Xanadu 2008 Chardonnay, Margaret River, Australia: Starbright, light lime colour. Toasty, with well-moderated scents of lightly buttered marzipan, yellow plums, lemon, lime, dried apricots, plus a hint of quince, vanilla, and spice. Complex and clean, with fine fruit, balanced acidity, and a lovely hint of fresh quince on the finish. Beautiful Margaret River Chardonnay (one of the best places in Australia for this often-overdone grape), with great balance, structure, and overall flavour. Tasty and well crafted, with 100% barrel fermentation in 25% new French oak. Reasonably priced and recommended. Screwcap closure. Now-2012+.
89     $19.95 (#27888)   Select Wine Merchants Inc.     (Licensee Price: $18.95)

Red Wines:

Zenato 2005 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOC, Veneto, Italy: Brilliant, opaque red-garnet colour. Intense aromas of dark cedar and mocha at the outset, giving way to dried cherries, plums, figs, dates, stewed prunes, and spice. Complex, clean, and immensely powerful (16.5% alcohol), with delicious, forward fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, and a lengthy hint of dried mocha and plums on the finish. Sumptuous, mighty Amarone, displaying superb structure, surprising balance, and beautiful overall style. A blend of 80% Corvina, 10% Rondinella, 5% Molinara, and 5% Sangiovese. Reasonably priced and sommelier recommended -- my note for this wine can also be found in the Vintage Assessments Professional Buying Guide. Now-2016.
92     $49.95 (#412179)   Joseph Cipelli Wines & Spirits     (Licensee Price: $47.45)

Ornellaia 2007 ‘Le Serre Nuove’, Bolgheri Rosso DOC, Tuscany, Italy: Brilliant, opaque ruby colour. Toasty, with lovely aromas of black cedary mocha, ripe currants and plums, stewed black cherries, earth, vanilla, and spice. Complex and very clean, with great fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, and a lovely, lengthy hint of dark mocha and baked plums on the finish. Marvellous ‘second wine’ from one of the most prestigious estates in Tuscany, boasting great structure, balance (despite carrying 14.5% alcohol), elegance, and polish. A blend of 40% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot; and aged for 15 months in 25% new French oak. A worthy wine for collectors and fine restaurants. Now-2014+.
91+     $59.95 (#606194)   Authentic Wine & Spirits Merchants     (Licensee Price: $56.95)

Château Tour Saint-André 2000, Lalande de Pomerol AOC, Bordeaux, France: Brilliant, dark-opaque red-garnet colour. Intensely cedary at the outset, giving way to dried red currants, plums, earth, light sandalwood, and the slightest hint of mocha and spice. Complex, clean, and elegant, with lovely mature fruit, fine tannins, balanced acidity, and a delightful hint of dried currants on the finish. Beautiful mature claret, with great structure, balance, refinement, and ageability (though nine years old, this can easily be aged five more years). Reasonably priced and recommended. Now-2014.
90     $29.95 (#138677)   Connexion Oenophilia     (Licensee Price: $28.45)

Glaetzer Wines 2007 Shiraz/Grenache, ‘Wallace’, Barossa Valley, Australia: Brilliant, opaque ruby colour. Toasty and slightly cedary, with enticing scents of dark mocha, black cherries, plums (slightly baked), dried currants, leather, and a hint of eucalyptus and spice. Complex and clean, exhibiting robust, powerful fruit, smooth tannins, milder acidity, ending with an extremely long, satisfying finish. Delicious wine, with great structure, balance (despite carrying 15% alcohol), and length. A blend of 75% Shiraz and 25% Grenache. Reasonably priced and sommelier recommended. Screwcap closure. Now-2014.
89     $24.95 (#47605)   Free House Ontario     (Licensee Price: $23.70)

Tamar Ridge 2007 Pinot Noir, ‘Kayena Vineyard’, Tasmania, Australia: Brilliant, medium-dark ruby colour. Exhibiting lovely scents of fresh berries, plums, red licorice, light toast, and a hint of vanilla and spice. Clean, with delightful freshness of fruit, soft tannins, balanced acidity, and a lovely, lingering hint of fresh cherried plums on the finish. Remarkably fresh, with great balance, fine structure, and beautiful purity. Reasonably priced and recommended. Screwcap closure. Now-2012.
89     $26.95 (#962415)   Appellation Wines     (Licensee Price: $25.60)

Bodegas Beronia 2005 Reserva (Tempranillo), Rioja DOCa, Spain: Brilliant, dark ruby colour. Delightfully toasty and cedary, with lovely scents of fresh mocha, dried currants and plums, leather, and a hint of vanilla, granola, and spice. Clean, with fine fruit and tannins, balanced acidity, and a lovely hint of cedary mocha on the finish. Admirable, well-defined Rioja, with very good structure, balance, and style. Reasonably priced and licensee recommended. Now-2014.
88+     $17.95 (#50203)   Woodman Wines & Spirits     (Licensee Price: $17.05)

Fortified Wines:

Ferreira 2000 Late Bottled Vintage Port, Douro DOC, Portugal: Brilliant, opaque red-garnet colour. Decidedly baked, yet boasting very attractive aromas of intense dried red currants, plums, dates, figs, light game, and spice. Complex and clean, with fine fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, ending with a lengthy hint of baked cedar and sweet plums on the finish. Highly admirable LBV, with lovely structure, balance, and length. Reasonably priced and licensee recommended. Now-2014.
89     $19.95 (#675751)   Authentic Wine & Spirits Merchants     (Licensee Price: $18.95)

Quinta do Noval Tawny Port (NV), Douro DOC, Portugal: Brilliant, dark red currant colour. Intense sweet red currants, accompanied by pleasant notes of stewed plums, cedar, fruitcake, and spice. Clean, with good, firm fruit, fine tannins, balanced acidity, and a lengthy hint of sweet wooden fruitcake on the finish. Admirable basic tawny, with good structure, balance, and (more youthful) maturity. Reasonably priced and recommended. Now-2014.
88     $18.95 (#141119)   Lifford Agencies     (Licensee Price: $18.00)

Around this time of year – that is, as Christmas fast approaches – there are all sorts of interesting wine tastings taking place throughout the city, making it a perfect time of year for fine dining establishments and sommeliers to improve their wine lists.

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Julian Hitner's Sommelier Selects Report (October 16, 2009)
Stem Portfolio Tasting

    Just recently I ventured over to the Eglinton Grand (400 Eglinton West) to review the wines of Stem Wine Group (416.548.8824), owned and operated by Robert Tomé and Tony Macchione. For lovers of Italian wine (particularly from the northern half of the boot), they really do have a fine portfolio of wines, and I had great time trying many of them. With a live band on stage and plenty of pulled pork, risotto, and fine breads (among other things) to partake, I can honestly say I was glad that I didn’t have to take my car that afternoon. A rare occasion for rendering spittoons optional.

     For the most part, portfolio tastings are an excellent way for restaurateurs and sommeliers to examine (hopefully) the entire range of wines of a specific wine agency. Ordinarily, a representative of a wine agency would make an appointment with a fine dining establishment, and bring over about a dozen of the agency’s newest labels to show to the sommelier. But I would argue that this has become impractical, as there is less pressure to make a purchase at a portfolio tasting than there is with a one-on-one appointment. More importantly, I have also noticed that many of the samples brought to these appointments are often stale from having been opened earlier in the day, sometimes even the day before! As a result, this neither benefits the wine agent nor the sommelier. At a portfolio tasting, on the other hand, the samples are always fresh, and it gives sommeliers a chance to more informally converse with the agents. All work and no play …

     As for Stem Wine Group’s fourth annual portfolio tasting, it was (for me) more of a social event than anything else, as several of my close ‘sommelier friends’ were also on hand throughout the afternoon. Even for people in the trade (with several hundred of them arriving in the course of the day), it is always nice to have good friends with which to taste fine wine -- one of the reasons I fell into this type of work in the first place.

     I began the afternoon with the Vinicola Tombacco 2007 ‘Ca’ del Doge’ Chianti DOCG (87++/100, $12.95), a lovely dusty-fruity Sangiovese (100%) to offer by the bottle or glass; and definitely my top budget recommendation from the Stem portfolio. After this, I came across the Tenuta Monteti 2006 ‘Caburnio’ IGT Maremma Toscana (89/100, $21.99), a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 25% Alicante; also an excellent bet, displaying great structure, balance, and overall harmony. In the thirty-dollar range, my top recommendation would have to be the Delibori 2004 Amarone della Valpolicella DOC (90/100, $32.99), a beautiful, complex Amarone, with superb fullness and structure; at this price, every fine dining establishment in the city ought to have it.

     From this point onward, it did not take me long to realize that many of the wines on offer by Stem Wine Group can be very expensive, meaning that restaurateurs and their sommelier(s) ought to be especially selective on deciding which wines (purchased by the case) are best to invest in. With the amount of money some of these wines can cost, it can quickly eat up the wine budget for almost any fine dining establishment, not to mention play havoc on one’s inventory if the wines have difficulty selling quickly.

     From Umbria, the Arnaldo Caprai 2005 ‘25 ANNI’ Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG (93/100, $114.99) is a stupendous wine to have on offer, revealing terrific fruit, beautiful structure, and seamless balance. Made from 100% Sagrantino, the ‘05 ‘25 ANNI’ is the pride and joy of the Caprai family, who have been making wine at Val di Maggio in Umbria since 1971. Granted, this particular type of wine isn’t nearly as well known as Brunello (for example); even so, I would go so far as to argue that the best examples are – at least these days – no less wonderful.

     From Tuscany, my favourite wine of the Stem portfolio would have to be the Valdicava 2004 Brunello di Montalcino DOCG (93/100, $139.99). Impeccable Brunello, displaying brilliant, complex fruit, structure, and poise, this a superb ultra-premium Italian wine to have on any fine wine list. And because it’s Brunello, selling it should be no problem, especially at this level of quality.

     Finally, from Veneto, it would be preposterous for me not to mention the Zýmé 2003 Amarone della Valpolicella DOC (97/100, $189.99), without question one of the finest Amarones I have ever tasted. Indescribably complex, with extraordinary structure, balance, elegance, and power, this is a must-have for the finest wine lists in our fair city. Celestino Gaspari, a former winemaker at Giuseppe Quintarelli, first conceived the Zýmé winery in 1999, which has since blossomed into one of the most highly regarded small-scale winegrowing operations in Northeast Italy.

    And so, with so many great wines in their portfolio, the future certainly seems bright for Stem Wine Group, and Robert and Tony had every reason to be pleased. Now if only all the other wine agencies could also start holding their portfolio tastings at the Eglinton Grand -- at this point, my reasons ought to seem obvious.

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Julian Hitner's Sommelier Selects Report (October 9, 2009)
Thanksgiving & October 10th Vintages Release

l  As a Canadian wine writer, this is one of my favourite times of the year. From the changing of the leaves and harvest reports to portfolio tastings and preparing my weekly columns, there is always something to do, somewhere to go, and someone to see. But most of all, I look forward to this time of year because of Thanksgiving, a holiday that all persons can enjoy, a time of year when we simply express thanks for the things (and the people) that we have. And of course, there’s the ubiquitous turkey dinner!

     But what to pair with turkey? For the most part, the usual suspects are as follows: Chardonnay (or Pinot Grigio) for white and Pinot Noir (or Beaujolais) for red. These are the wines most Vintages product consultants, restaurant sommeliers, and wine writers will often recommend if they are featuring a Thanksgiving special in their establishments or publications this coming weekend. And yet, there are plenty of other white and red wines (particularly the latter) that will also pair delightfully with this delicious flightless bird. Many Italian reds and clarets, for instance, are well suited to turkey, as is Sauvignon Blanc and (even) certain Rieslings for whites, not to mention all the other grapes out there that are just waiting to be poured while (or before) the main course is being carved.

     For the October 10th Vintages release then, the theme is ‘Italy’s big 3: Piedmont, Veneto, Tuscany; plus Thanksgiving wines for every palate.’ Hardly an easy task to satisfy the wine preferments of every enthusiast (particularly those in the trade) this coming weekend. Then again, as you can see below, we wine writers enjoy a good challenge.

     On whites, my top suggestion of the week is the Spy Valley 2007 Chardonnay (89/100, #57737), a beautiful, balanced wine, with a lovely personality that should have little trouble selling. Understandably hypocritical on my part, it should also pair delightfully with Thanksgiving turkey and all the trimmings. Another favourite white of mine is the Weingut Studkert-Prüm 2004 Riesling Spätlese (89+/100, #140756), one of the best value-to-quality Mosel Spätleses to come my way in quite the while. Best serve this as an aperitif before a Thanksgiving meal. As for fine dining establishments, this is a perfect Spätlese to have on your wine list, period. Though it won’t sell in droves (all sommeliers know this), it is always smart to have several bottles of really great Spätlese in stock, just in case the need arises.

     Concerning reds, my number one choice would have to be the Château La Croix de Queynac 2005 Bordeaux Supérieur (88/100, #138636), a superb value for fine wine lists (this could even be offered by the glass) as well as a marvellous claret to pair with turkey and freshly made stuffing. However, for those who prefer goose, the Zironda 2006 Amarone della Valpolicella (91/100, #134601) would seem like the perfect choice for you. More importantly, at this price, fine restaurants ought to certainly get their hands on a few cases of this.

     Of course, there are no set rules to any food and wine pairings, let alone a turkey dinner. The choice is left entirely to the individual, which is as it should be. In the end, Thanksgiving reminds us that just having a choice is reason enough to be thankful, particularly when it comes to sitting down with friends and family during this lovely time of year. As for the wine, merely having a full glass in my hand is good enough for me.

Here are my top suggestions from the October 10th Vintages Release.

White Wines:

Weingut Studert-Prüm 2004 Riesling Spätlese, Wehlener Sonnenuhr (Vineyard), Mosel, Germany: From one of the most prestigious vineyards overlooking the beautiful Mosel River. Starbright, light lime colour (lovely appearance), with introductory scents of fresh lemon and very subtle kerosene, giving way to fresh lime wedges, honeysuckle, and a hint of spicy white flowers. Complex and clean, with fine fruit, balanced acidity, and a lovely hint of lemony residual sugar on the finish. Great Spätlese, with delightful structure, balance, and stylization. Nicely priced and sommelier recommended -- a delightful starter-wine to enjoy on its own before a Thanksgiving dinner. Now-2015. 89+     $23.95 (#140756)   Vinexx     (Licensee Price: $22.75)

Spy Valley 2007 Chardonnay, Marlborough, New Zealand: Starbright, light lime colour. Finely toasted, with inviting scents of fresh stony quince, lemon, dried apricots, mild caramel (perhaps a trace of butterscotch), and a lovely hint of white peaches and grapefruit. Clean, with good fruit, balanced acidity, and a finely structured finish. Splendid Chardonnay, with delightful balance, personality, and structure. Barrel-fermented and aged on the lees for ten months, the skilful efforts of winemakers Paul Bourgeois and Ant Mackenzie have certainly paid off in the highly successful ’07 vintage. Nicely priced and recommended -- well-suited to partnering with Thanksgiving turkey. Screwcap closure. Now-2012+.
89     $19.95 (#57737)   Kylix Wines     (Licensee Price: $18.95)

Domaine Bonnard 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, Sancerre, AOC, Loire, France: Starbright, pale lime colour. Beginning with delicate scents of grassy gooseberries, switching to light citric lemon, detectable minerality, and a trace of lime, herbs, and (perhaps) dried apricots. Clean and crisp, with slightly nervy fruit and acidity, ending with a lovely hint of fresh gooseberries on the finish. Delightful Sauvignon, with good structure, balance, and character. Positively crafted in the New Zealand style. Acceptably priced -- a lovely wine to enjoy with Thanksgiving turkey. Screwcap closure. Now-2010+.
88+     $22.95 (#140525)   M.C.O.     (Licensee Price: $21.80)

Flat Rock Cellars 2007 Chardonnay (Unwooded), ‘Unplugged’, Twenty Mile Bench VQA, Niagara Peninsula: Brilliant, light lime colour. Exhibiting attractive scents of fresh stony pears, switching to yellow plums, light hazelnuts, marzipan, and a very subtle hint of buttercups. Clean, with good fruit, balanced acidity, and a nicely structured finish. Admirable, refreshing Chardonnay, with good structure, balance, and purity of character. Licensee recommended for the price -- for those who prefer their Thanksgiving turkey without the heavy gravy. Now-2010+.
88     $15.95 (#68015)   Flat Rock Cellars     (Licensee Price: $15.25)

Enrico Serafino 2008 Moscato, Moscato d’Asti DOCG, Piedmont, Italy: Brilliant, pale lime colour, with a touch of spritz. Delightfully fragrant, with fresh scents of leafy-herbal peaches, apricots, lemon, orange peel, and a lovely hint of stony beach pebbles. Clean and crisp, with refreshing fruit, balanced acidity, and a delightful touch of spritz on the finish. Great Moscato, with just the right balance, crispness, and overall character -- only 5.5% alcohol. Reasonably priced and easily recommendable for the quality -- the perfect aperitif to have with this weekend’s Thanksgiving festivities; in fact, this should go very well with a few slices of white turkey meat covered in cranberry sauce, as well. Drink now.
88     $16.95 (#134833)   Majestic Wine Cellars     (Licensee Price: $16.10)

Red Wines:

Zironda 2006 Amarone della Valpolicella, DOC, Veneto, Italy: Brilliant, opaque ruby colour. Displaying beautiful aromas of dark, wild black cherries, mocha, plums, light undergrowth, earth, and spice. Complex, clean, and very smooth, boasting delicious fruit, fine tannins, balanced acidity, with a lovely, lengthy hint of dark plums and undergrowth on the finish. Sumptuous, powerful Amarone, with superb structure, balance, and style. Reasonably priced and licensee recommended for the quality -- this would pair beautifully with a Thanksgiving goose. Now-2016.
91     $36.95 (#134601)   Select Wine Merchants Inc.     (Licensee Price: $35.10)

Glaetzer Wines 2007 Shiraz, ‘Bishop’, Barossa Valley, Australia: Bright, opaque purple-ruby colour. Toasty, with powerful aromas of fresh mocha, eucalyptus, minty plums, dried currants, vanilla, and spice. Complex, clean, and immensely delicious, with forward fruit, smooth tannins, milder acidity, ending with a long-lasting hint of fresh plums and gum tree on the finish. Powerful, compelling Barossa Shiraz, with great structure, balance (despite the 15% alcohol), and cellaring potential. Harvested from vines aged 80 to 120 years, and aged for fourteen months in 90% French and 10% American oak. Reasonably priced and recommended for the quality -- a superb wine for guests who would prefer seasoned prime rib over (traditional) turkey this Thanksgiving weekend. Now-2016.
90     $29.95 (#627869)   Free House Ontario     (Licensee Price: $28.45)

Château Tour St. Joseph 2005,Haut-Médoc, AOC, Bordeaux, France: Brilliant, dark ruby-red colour. Toasty, with elegant aromas of dark mocha, currants, plums, earth, and a hint of vanilla and spice; perhaps a few black cherries. Complex and clean, with well-structured fruit, fine tannins, balanced acidity, ending with a solid, nicely rounded finish. Great claret, with delightful balance, structure, and genuine refinement. Reasonably priced and sommelier recommended -- a lovely claret to have with friends and family this Thanksgiving weekend, which should pair very well with the main course. Now-2014.
89     $23.95 (#138701)   Charton Hobbs Inc.     (Licensee Price: $22.75)

Tenimenti Angelini 2006, ‘Trerose’, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, DOCG, Tuscany, Italy: Brilliant, dark red currant colour. Intensely meaty and cedary at the outset, with beautiful scents of dried cherries, red plums, sandalwood, and spice. Complex and clean, with very good fruit, fine tannins, balanced acidity, and a lovely hint of cedary red plums on the finish. Delightful, well-crafted Vino Nobile, with great structure, appeal, and balance (despite carrying 14.5% alcohol). A blend of 90% Pugnolo Gentile (Sangiovese), 5% Canaiolo, and 5% Colorino, with around 20,080 cases made. Reasonably priced and licensee recommended -- an elegant (yet more mighty) pairing partner for Thanksgiving turkey. Now-2014.
89     $24.95 (#963199)   Classique Imports     (Licensee Price: $23.70)

Malgrà 2006 Barbera, ‘Fornace di Cerreto’, Barbera d’Asti Superiore, DOC, Piedmont, Italy: Brilliant, dark red-garnet colour. Exhibiting pleasant notes of cedary cherries, baked plums, sandalwood, dried apple peel, and a hint of spice. Clean, with good fruit, soft tannins, balanced acidity, and a lovely hint of dried cedary cherries on the finish. Delightful Barbera, crafted in the traditional style -- an unusual, yet brilliant wine to pair with Thanksgiving turkey, especially for those who enjoy a little extra cranberry sauce. Reasonably priced. Now-2012.
88     $17.95 (#4275)   Churchill Cellars Ltd.     (Licensee Price: $17.05)

Château La Croix de Queynac 2005, Bordeaux Supérieur AOC, Bordeaux, France: Brilliant, dark red currant colour. Exhibiting lovely notes of fresh cherried plums, currants, light vanilla, loamy earth, and a hint of spice. Clean, with good fruit, fine tannins, balanced acidity, and an amiable hint of reserved red plums on the finish. Delightful everyday claret, with very good structure, balance, and approachability. A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 10% Cabernet Franc. Very reasonably priced and sommelier/licensee recommended -- a wonderful partner for Thanksgiving turkey. Now-2013.
88     $14.95 (#138636)   The Dochas Company Inc.     (Licensee Price: $14.20)

Sparking Wine:

Nino Franco NV Brut Prosecco, Prosecco di Valdobbiadene DOCG, Veneto, Italy: Starbright, light lime colour. Revealing fresh, textbook (Prosecco-related) scents of strawy grass, Granny Smith apples, pears, and a hint of baked lemon and stony beach pebbles. Clean, with good, crisp fruit, balanced acidity, and a refreshing hint of dewy grass on the finish. Lovely Prosecco, with great freshness, balance, and style. Not cheap, but worth the price for Prosecco fans -- also a perfect way to welcome friends and family to a Thanksgiving get-together. Now-2010+.
88     $18.95 (#349662)   Rogers & Company     (Licensee Price: $18.00)

Fortified Wines:

D’Arenberg Wines 2005 Shiraz/Chambourcin, ‘Vintage Fortified’, McLaren Vale, Australia: Bright, opaque purple colour. Intense eucalyptus and dark chocolate at the outset, with baked plums, currants, black earth, light cedar, vanilla, and lots of spice. Clean and very full-bodied, with deliciously smooth fruit, approachable, yet substantial tannins, mild acidity, and a beautiful hint of sweet mocha, eucalyptus, and sweet plums on the finish. Superb fortified wine, with lovely structure, balance, and original character. A blend of 68% Shiraz and 32% Chambourcin, with no wood aging prior to bottling. Reasonably priced and licensee recommended -- a great way to end off any Thanksgiving dinner. Now-2018.
90     $33.95 (#606244)   Churchill Cellars Ltd.     (Licensee Price: $32.25)

Graham’s Non-Vintage Port, ‘Six Grapes Reserve’, Douro DOC, Portugal: Bright, opaque purple colour. Intense notes of dried plums, currants, figs, light dates, and the slightest hint of dark mocha and herbal scents. Clean, with well-structured fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, and a satisfying hint of sweet, slightly herbed plums on the finish. Lovely ‘Reserve’ Port, with great structure, balance, and length, though perhaps a tad sweet for conservative Port drinkers. Nicely priced and recommended -- a perfect digestif after a lovely Thanksgiving celebration. Now-2016+.
89     $22.95 (#208405)   Mark Anthony Brands     (Licensee Price: $21.80)

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Julian Hitner's Sommelier Selects Report (September 25, 2009)
September 26th Vintage Release

     As most restaurateurs and sommeliers are well aware, the autumnal months leading up to the Christmas season is the most critical time of year in the revenue cycle for most fine dining establishments. From substantial corporate gatherings to large private holiday parties, the end of September marks a crucial time of year for the sale of all things alcoholic!

     Of wine then, the choice for sommeliers is simple: procure the best wines that can be sold in the largest, most expensive quantities, and make sure that they are always on hand. In other words, have your glasses of Pinot Grigio at the ready and keep the pricey Napa (and Sonoma) Cabernet on stand-by. For the vast majority of fine dining establishments, this has been the golden rule at least for the past twenty years.

     But what about the rest of the wine selections on your list? After all, with the ever-growing number of informed, wine-savvy guests, to confine one’s list to ‘bread-and-butter’ wines is simply a bad choice to make in the cutthroat restaurant industry. A proper wine list needs to stand out, otherwise a fine dining establishment will most likely be unable to survive; and this is why the wine choices sommeliers make are considered so crucial to the success of their restaurant(s).

     For the September 26th Vintages Release, then, the theme is ‘Napa: Experience the California dream; plus Wide World of Whisk(e)y.’ For whites, my top choice is the Domaine Saint-Rémy 2007 Gewurztraminer ‘Reserve’ (90/100, #61150), displaying beautiful exotic spices, balance, and polish, proving once again how stellar the Alsatians can be at harnessing this wonderful noble grape. The Dog Point Vineyard 2008 Sauvignon Blanc (89/100, #677450) is also a very smart bet, offering beautiful zesty fruit, balance, and purity of flavour – a truly great Marlborough selection to have on your list.

     Of reds, if you are a sommelier in need of adding an ultra-premium claret, then the 2005 Château Langoa-Barton (95/100, #505800) is unquestionably the wine for you. Immensely attractive, complex, structured, and gloriously refined, this is the finest vintage I have ever tasted from this perennially underrated estate (see below for more information). Of course, such a wine can only be sold to a very limited number of guests. For the vast majority of budget-minded consumers (many still reeling from the recession), the Terres d’Avignon 2007 ‘Cardinalices’(88/100, #130264) is a far more realistic wine to have on offer. An excellent Côtes du Rhône to offer by the glass and sell by the bottle, displaying lovely soft fruit, good balance, and immediate approachability. Cautiously priced, this can be a great ‘book balancer’ for the upcoming holiday season.

Here are my top suggestions from the September 26th Vintages Release:

White Wines:

Domaine Saint-Rémy 2007 Gewurztraminer, ‘Réserve’, Alsace AOC, France: Starbright, light yellow colour. Beautiful, enticing scents of exotic spices, with lovely notes of lemony lychee, sweet poached pears, dried honeysuckle, and a delicate hint of ginger. Clean, with fresh, spicy fruit, balanced acidity, and a beautiful hint of honeyed ginger on the finish. Gorgeous Gewurztraminer, with exquisite balance, structure, and polish. Winegrowers since 1725, the Ehrhart family has certainly done its ancestors proud. Well priced and highly recommended. Now-2015.
90     $19.95 (#61150)   Eurovintage International Inc.     (Licensee Price: $18.95)

Dog Point Vineyard 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand: Beginning with intense scents of stony gooseberries, switching to delicate dewy pears, very moderate tropicality, fresh grass, and a trademark hint of cat’s pee. Clean and very fresh, with lovely zesty fruit, good acidity, and an excitingly racy finish. Delicious Sauvignon Blanc, with great balance, structure, and purity of flavour. Winemakers James Healey and Ivan Sutherland have good reason to be proud of this wine. Reasonably priced. Screwcap closure. Now-2011.
89     $19.95 (#677450)   The Small Winemakers Collection     (Licensee Price: $18.95)

Avelino Vegas 2008 Albariño, ‘Aires de Arosa’, Rías Baixas DO, Spain: Starbright, light lime colour. Starting off with light seasalty lime, switching to subtle lemon, pebbles, white flowers, and the slightest hint of spice. Clean and crisp, with refreshing, lighter-style fruit, balanced acidity, and a lovely hint of seasalty lemon on the finish. Textbook, classic Albariño, with good structure, balance, and originality of character. Reasonably priced and licensee recommended – great for seafood-themed menus. Now-2010.
88     $18.95 (#131755)   Signature Wines & Spirits     (Licensee Price: $18.00)

Tawse 2007 Chardonnay, ‘Sketches of Niagara’, Niagara Peninsula VQA: Starbright, light lime colour. Toasty, with fresh notes of pears, apricots, moderate butter; with well-integrated hints of caramel, vanilla, white flowers, and hazelnuts. Clean, with soft, well-established fruit, balanced acidity, and a lovely hint of dried apricots and hazelnuts on the finish. Very well-balanced, with positive structure, style, and taste. Reasonably priced. Now-2012+.
88     $19.95 (#89037)   Tawse Winery Inc.     (Licensee Price: $18.95)

Red Wines:

Château Langoa-Barton 2005,Saint-Julien AOC, Bordeaux, France: Four years later and still incredibly youthful, the ’05 Langoa-Barton continues to get better and better. Brilliant, dark-opaque ruby colour, with a touch of purple. Offering sensationally gorgeous aromas of toast, leafy currants, plums, and blackberries; later switching to exquisite dark red licorice, earth, graphite, vanilla, and spice. Extremely complex, precise, and clean, with beautiful reserved fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, and a refined hint of dark plums and currants on the finish. Absolutely impeccable, with magnificent structure, balance, and breed; the level of extract here is unquestionably near perfect. A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 10% Cabernet Franc, with 6,665 cases made. Immensely recommendable for wealthy collectors and top-end restaurants, I am astonished that more famous critics and I did not give this wine a higher rating, for the ’05 Langoa-Barton is truly the finest wine I ever tasted from this estate. Now-2018+.
95     $129.00 (#505800)   LCBO Direct     (Licensee Price: $122.55)

Ornellaia 2006, Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore DOC, Tuscany, Italy: For most wine enthusiasts, it would be almost impossible to tell the ’06 Ornellaia derived from Tuscan soil. Brilliant, opaque ruby colour, with the slightest touch of purple. Starting off toasty, thereafter revealing incredibly hedonistic aromas of dark milk chocolate, mocha, plums, currants, black cherries, earth, espresso, vanilla, spice, and (last but certainly not least) lots of oak. Complex, clean, and powerful, with delicious forward fruit, soft tannins, milder acidity, and an extremely long finish. Insanely powerful and Parkerized, with an astonishing 15% alcohol; nevertheless possessing remarkable structure, balance, and medium-term ageability. A blend of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot; and aged for eighteen months in French oak barriques – a substantial portion of which is undoubtedly new. Collectors and ultra-fine restaurants shall undoubtedly want to get their hands on this. Now-2015.
93     $174.95 (#722470)   Authentic Wines & Spirits Merchants     (Licensee Price: $166.20)

Frog’s Leap Winery 2007 Zinfandel, Napa Valley, California: Brilliant, dark purple-ruby colour. Toasty, with inviting scents of fresh red currants, slightly stewed plums, black cherries, earth, leather, mocha, and spice. Clean, with great fruit, fine tannins, balanced acidity, and a lovely hint of fresh plums on the finish. Quite beautiful and well-balanced (13.4% alcohol), boasting great structure and polish. Also contains 19% Petite Sirah and 5% Carignan, with 11,500 cases made. Reasonably priced for the quality and a superb Zinfandel to add to any fine wine list. Now-2014.
90     $34.95 (#593525)   Rogers & Company     (Licensee Price: $33.20)

Richard Hamilton 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, ‘Hut Block’, McLaren Vale, Australia: Bright, opaque ruby colour. Toasty, with intense aromas of mocha, plums, moderate eucalyptus, spicy currants, light mint, vanilla, and spice. Complex and clean, with soft, flavoursome fruit, supple tannins, mild acidity, and a lovely, lengthy hint of fresh mocha and plums on the finish. Quite delicious, with great structure, balance, and (potential) long-term ageability. Reasonably priced and a welcome addition to any quality wine list – without question, the wines of Richard Hamilton have long held an excellent track record for value. Now-2015.
89     $18.95 (#567917)   Brave New Wines     (Licensee Price: $18.00)

Château Croze de Pys 2005, Cahors AOC, Southwest, France: Brilliant, opaque purple colour, with a touch of ruby. Exhibiting lovely scents of fresh black currants at the outset, giving way to dark plums, blackberries, light earthy leather, and a hint of cloves and spice. Clean, with well-structured fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, ending with a beautiful, finely crafted finish. Truly admirable Cahors, with very good structure, balance, and ageability. A blend of 80% Malbec and 20% Merlot. Reasonably priced and sommelier recommended – one could probably offer this by the glass. Now-2015.
88+     $16.95 (#681668)   H.H.D. Imports     (Licensee Price: $16.10)

Terres d’Avignon 2007 ‘Cardinalices’, Côtes du Rhône AOC, France: Brilliant, dark ruby colour. Displaying lovely fragrant notes of spicy plums, light red currants, along with a hint of leather, light earth, and spice. Clean, with soft fruit, approachable tannins, balanced acidity, and a delightful hint of red plums on the finish. Very well done, with good freshness, balance, and approachability. Splendidly priced and licensee recommended. Now-2012.
88     $13.95 (#130264)   Grape Expectations Wine Imports     (Licensee Price: $12.80)

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Julian Hitner's September 18, 2009 Sommelier Selects Report
Trade Tastings: François Lurton & Delheim Vertical

       Opinionated, expressive, and positively charming, François Lurton is a brilliant self-advocate when it comes to defending the quality of his wines. Not that they need much in the way of defending, I was able to taste around twenty of them at a recent sit-down tasting and luncheon at Le Sélect Bistro (432 Wellington Street West) in downtown Toronto. With most of our city’s wine writers in attendance, it was certainly an informative, discussion-filled event.

     Represented in the Ontario market by Diamond Estates Wines & Spirits (416.488.4922), François Lurton (who bought a majority stake in the company from his brother Jacques in 2007) takes his wines very seriously, aiming for freshness of fruit and superb value above all else. And despite having to contend with a massive portfolio and a very large production capacity, he (as well as Jacques when he played a more direct role in the company) has still managed to retain a remarkable degree of quality across the board. Boasting around twenty-five different wineries and dozens upon dozens of different labels, this is nothing short of extraordinary!

     On personal favourites, for whites I was very impressed with a lovely Hermanos Lurton 2008 Verdejo (88/100), a successful operation begun around fifteen years ago in the Rueda DO region of central-northwest Spain. Displaying attractive leafy-lemon citrus notes and good, crisp freshness of flavour, I was happy to learn that this shall likely be priced at around $13.00 to $14.00 a bottle – a very good licensee purchase, not to mention a viable wine to sell by the glass.

    Another white (and my favourite non-red of the afternoon), Bodega Lurton 2007 ‘Gran Lurton’ Friulano (89+/100), hailing from Mendoza, Argentina. Exhibiting lovely floral scents, light toast, and a hint of dried apricots, this is a truly characterful wine, with delightful balance and structure. For fine dining establishments and their sommelier(s), this should prove a marvellous addition to any wine list. Granted, it will be a ‘hand sell’, but it should be worth the effort. At present, the ’06 can be found in Vintages for $19.95 (CSPC #66829, released as an untested ISD on August 1st, 2008), but the ’07 will eventually be made available.

     Concerning reds, I remain convinced that some of François Lurton’s most individualistic efforts have been achieved in southern France, particularly in the perennially underrated winegrowing region(s) of Roussillon. For my part, my favourite wine of the entire sit-down tasting was the 2004 La Récaoufa du Château de Erles (90/100), from the up-and-coming Corbières AOC. Starting off toasty, then revealing beautiful aromas of dark leathery plums, currants, tar, and spice, this is a truly great wine. Such lovely freshness of fruit, fine tannins, balanced acidity, and a splendid finish. Oddly enough, this particular wine had been released in Vintages on May 12, 2007, originally at $29.95; and was awarded a (recommended) score of **+ (out of ***) by Vintage Assessments. With (supposedly) only 500 cases made, this is a must-have on any fine wine list!

     Of course, Lurton has also had tremendous success with his various wineries in Chile and Argentina. Of the former, the Viña Hacienda 2008 ‘Araucano’ Pinot Noir (88/100) easily caught my attention during the latter half of the tasting, boasting beautiful red cherries, plums, and remarkable freshness. Representing excellent value for money (I am told this shall be sold on consignment for around $16.00), the grapes are sourced from within Rapel Valley sub-zone of the Colchagua Valley, which is quickly establishing itself as one of Chile’s most dynamic and highly valued winegrowing regions.

     Make no mistake: in the next five years, more and more fine dining establishments are going to have tasty, well-priced Pinot from Chile (and Argentina) on their wine lists, as their comparative Californian counterparts have become, in large part, far too costly to promote to budget-minded guests. All the more important then, that we applaud the fruitful efforts of François and Jacques Lurton. Indeed, we as writers, tradespersons, and enthusiasts all stand to gain. How wonderfully reciprocal!

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Julian Hitner's September 18, 2009 Sommelier Selects Report
Delheim Vertical: The 'Grand Reserve' Over Twenty Years

For wine writers like me, vertical tastings are par for the course: we use them to analyze the quality of a winery or a specific wine over a given period of time, and then assign that winery or wine a qualitative rating to be used in our publications.

    Sound boring? Actually, vertical tastings are often a great deal of fun for wine writers, tradespersons, and enthusiasts, alike. Believe me, it can be a truly remarkable experience to discover not only how the winemaking style of any given winery can change over time, but also how the wines themselves evolve as they age. Take the Delheim ‘Grand Reserve,’ for instance. Last Thursday at the Toronto Lawn Tennis Club (44 Price Street), the South African Wine Society – myself in the party for the evening – tasted a total of fourteen different vintages going back to 1985. With around eighty people in attendance, it was certainly a memorable event, with winemaker Spatz Sperling on hand to guide us through each of the wine. I am happy to mention several of my favourites for the evening.

     For wines over twenty years of age, both the 1985 (88/100) and the 1986 (90/100) were still performing remarkably well, with good structure, balance, and overall vibrancy (both retained 12% alcohol); though the ‘86 was definitely the superior, more polished wine of the two, containing a solid 11% Cabernet Franc (the ’85 had none) and greater overall precision. This being said, both these wines equally reflected a different age of South African winemaking: more rough-and-ready character, less forwardness of fruit, and longer periods of ‘required’ cellaring. Amazing how things have changed.

     Moving forward, the 1990 (91+/100), which was released through Vintages on April 1st, 2005 at $28.95, was definitely one of the more memorable older wines of the evening, exhibiting lovely structure, roundness, and complexity. Sperling says that 1990 was one of the finest vintages ever recorded in South Africa. I would tend to agree. Plus, in keeping with the period, it also had only 13% alcohol. Why do I comment on alcohol so much? Because it can truly change the complexion of a wine, as well as its ability to pair well with food!

    Proceeding further into the final decade of the twentieth century, one could not help but remark at how quickly the wines were becoming more youthful and fresh, not just because they were more recent vintages, but because they began to retain better balance and overall phenolic ripeness, not to mention higher levels of alcohol (the 1999 [90/100] ended off with 13.70%, which was also released through Vintages as an ISD on May 1st, 2003 – price unknown). Aside from the 1990, my favourite would have to be the 1996 (91/100), displaying beautiful mature fruit (100% Cabernet Sauvignon), fine tannins, and superb ageability.

     Finally, we come to the ‘Grand Reserves’ of the twenty-first century, four in total for the evening. With none containing any Cabernet Franc and not one falling below 13.5% alcohol, one could easily tell that these were wines geared toward the modern palate.

     Not that this is a bad thing. Rather the reverse, each of the wines were remarkably fresh, retaining near-perfect phenolic ripeness, great structure, and overall complexity. For my part, my favourite was the 2005 (92+/100): youthful, fresh, vibrant, and ready to drink. A modern wine in most respects, containing 92% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Merlot; boasting 14% alcohol. This being said, there is little doubt in my mind that the ’05 will probably age just as well as its twenty-year-old counterpart, revealing (in my mind) just how well Spatz Sperling and the rest of the winemaking team at Delheim has managed to retain a remarkable degree of continuity of character – at the same time vastly improving the quality – of their wines over the past two decades. Not bad for a winery with roots dating back to 1699. After all, the older the winery, the harder it can be to institute change.

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September 11 , 2009 Sommelier Selects Report
September 12th Vintage Release
and "Taste Ontario" Trade Tasting

     Whenever a fine dining establishment sets out to construct a wine list, two objectives must be achieved. First and foremost, a wine list must be profitable! After all, without a steady stream of reliable revenue that comes from the sale of alcohol, it would not be long before a dining establishment would have to shut its doors. Secondly, a wine list must be creative, otherwise a restaurant loses prestige and becomes dull – something unthinkable in the cutthroat culinary scene of Toronto.

     Thus, it is imperative that restaurant managers and their sommeliers be ever vigilant about procuring the most suitable wines possible for their establishments. And these days, it’s all about going local, which is not entirely a bad thing. Indeed, many wineries throughout the Niagara Peninsula (particularly the newer operations) have made tremendous progress over the past several years in improving the quality of their wines; so much so that the Niagara Peninsula has recently been subdivided into ten different sub-appellations. Granted, there is still a great deal of work to be done, as acknowledged by VQA Executive Director Laurie Macdonald. But as long as things are heading in the right direction, we as wine enthusiasts all stand to benefit.

     This brings me back to the matter of creating a good wine list. With all the fine wines now coming out of Niagara, there have been many dining establishments in Toronto that have expanded their lists of Canadian offerings immensely. Last Thursday and Friday, I and around twenty other wine writers from around the country were invited to attend a two-day event in Niagara featuring the different new sub-appellations that can now be seen on VQA wine labels in LCBO stores. Needless to say, it was a very busy couple of days, with highlights including dinner at Hillebrand, luxury accommodation at Harbour House Hotel, and a vineyard lunch hosted by Thomas Bachelder of Le Clos Jordanne --- more on my Niagara excursion in upcoming article(s).

Dutiful in my note-taking, I emerged from this mini wine odyssey with a great deal of new insights into the different sub-appellations of Niagara, tasting several of the wines to be made available for sampling at Taste Ontario, to be held at the Art Gallery of Ontario (AGO, third floor) on Thursday, September 17, from 2 to 4 pm. Bone fide sommeliers and licensees can register by clicking here. There is a great bevy of wines to taste – some 120+ items in total.

For whites, I was most impressed with the Thirty Bench Winery 2008 ‘Estate’ Riesling (tasted during a side-trip with Michael Vaughan and Michael Pinkus). At $15.09 (licensee price) this is a truly great wine for restaurant owners to add to their lists, offering lovely crisp citrus fruit and very good balance. For reds, my top pick would have to be the Hidden Bench 2007 Pinot Noir (also from Beamsville Bench). Even at $36.69 (licensee price), this is a stupendous wine to have on any fine wine list, as Hidden Bench has quickly established itself as one of the most forward-looking, quality-minded wineries on the Niagara Peninsula, to say nothing of how delicious the wine itself is.

White Wines:

Angels Gate 2007 ‘Mountainview ' Chardonnay Niagara Peninsula VQA: Starbright, pale lime colour, with a touch of straw. Moderate toastiness, with light stony butterscotch, dried pears, mild tropical fruit, and the faintest hint of vanilla and creamed corn (common in barrel-aged Chardonnay). Clean, with decent fruit, balanced acidity, and a lovely hint of toasty pears on the finish. Nicely constructed, with notable balance and overall restraint. Great price. Now-2011+.
88+ $15.28 (Licensee Price)  

Tawse 2007 Chardonnay ‘Sketches of Niagara’, Niagara Peninsula VQA: Starbright, pale-light lime colour. Toasty, with fresh notes of pears, apricots, moderate butter; with well-integrated hints of caramel, vanilla, white flowers, and hazelnuts. Complex and clean, with soft, well-established fruit, balanced acidity, and a lovely hint of dried apricots and hazelnuts on the finish. Very well-balanced, with good structure and style. Nicely priced. Now-2012+.
88 $18.95 (Licensee Price)  

Cave Spring Cellars 2007 Riesling ‘CSV’, Beamsville Bench VQA: Starbright, pale straw-lime colour. Intense notes of fresh, ‘icy’ lime, accompanied by stunning hints of lemon, green grapes, slate-like minerality, and a touch of kerosene. Clean, with polished fruit, good acidity, and a lovely hint of residual sugar on the finish. Gorgeous Riesling: reminds me very much of a Saar equivalent – a grand compliment. Reasonably priced for the quality and highly recommended. Now-2014+.
90 $24.27 (Licensee Price)  

Thirty Bench 2008 Riesling, Beamsville Bench VQA: Starbright, pale lime colour. Inviting notes of crisp, lemony lime, accompanied by light stony pebbles, and a hint of citrus grapefruit. Clean and crisp, with lovely citrus fruit, balanced acidity, and a delicate hint of lemon on the finish. Admirable, refreshing Riesling, with decent structure and balance. Indeed, Beamsville Bench seems well-suited to the cultivation of this legendary noble grape. Nicely priced and licensee recommended. Now-2013. 88 $15.09 (Licensee Price)  

Red Wines:

Tawse 2007 Merlot/Cabernet ‘Sketches of Niagara’, Niagara Peninsula VQA: Bright, dark-opaque ruby colour, with a touch of purple. Toasty, with dark plums, currants, light mocha, earth, vanilla, and spice. Clean, with good fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, and a lovely hint of dark plums on the finish. Tasty, very solid wine, with admirable structure, balance, and medium-term ageability. Owner Moray Tawse is undoubtedly pleased, and so he should be. Reasonably priced and licensee recommended. Now-2014. 88 $18.95 (Licensee Price)  

Flat Rock Cellars 2007 Pinot Noir ‘Gravity’, Twenty Mile Bench VQA: Brilliant, medium-dark ruby colour. Starting off toasty, giving way to inviting scents of dark, earthy cherries, red plums, violets, licorice, and a delicate hint of white mocha and spice. Complex and clean, with very lovely fruit, fine tannins, balanced acidity, and a well-structured finish. Though unnecessarily over-filtered, this remains a superb Pinot Noir in its own right, displaying great balance, polish, and style. Not cheap, but worth the money. Now-2013. 90 incorrectly listed as $32.62 (Licensee Price) actual retail is $29.95 in the September 12th release  

Hidden Bench Estate 2007 Pinot Noir, Beamsville Bench VQA: The first Pinot Noir I have yet to publish from Hidden Bench Winery. Toasty, with beautiful, inviting scents of red cherries, plums, light mocha and rhubarb, red licorice, and spice. Complex and very clean, with tight, fine fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, and a well-structured finish. Delicious and superbly crafted, with great balance, structure, and overall restraint. But is it worth the price? For wealthy collectors, I am very much inclined to say yes. For fine restaurants, this is a must-have. Now-2014. 90 $36.69 (Licensee Price)  

Thirty Bench 2007 ‘Red’, Beamsville Bench VQA: Bright, dark-opaque ruby colour. Toasty, with inviting scents of fresh plums, earthy mocha, currants, black cherries, and a hint of vanilla and cedary spice. Clean, with good fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, and a well-structured finish. Lovely wine from Thirty Bench, with very good structure, balance, and aging potential. At present, the specs on the ’07 have yet to be posted on their website. Acceptably priced. Now-2014. 88+ $19.57 (Licensee Price) 

Sparkling Wines:

Jackson-Triggs 2004 ‘Méthode Classique’, Niagara Peninsula VQA: Starbright, pale-light lime colour. Exhibiting lovely, delicate notes of lemony biscuits, light hazelnuts, pears, and the slightest hint of fresh cream and spice. Clean and crisp, with good fruit, balanced acidity, and a delightful hint of stony lemon citrus on the finish. Impressive Niagara sparkler, with great balance, structure, and polish. A blend of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay; aged for thirty-six months on the lees. Reasonably priced and licensee recommended. Now-2012. 89 $18.59 (Licensee Price)  

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * September 12th Vintages Release:

Coming out on Saturday, September 12, the theme is ‘Ontario’s Shining Moment: Our Sensational 2007 Vintage; plus Portugal’s Best-Kept Secrets.’ Concerning whites, it was not an easy task to assemble my list of suggestions. At the end of the day, my top pick would have to be the Schloss Reinhartshausen 2003 Riesling Spätlese ($23.95, #127589). Truly wonderful, I realize restaurant sommeliers tend to have an incredibly hard time selling Rieslings of any sort, let alone ones of German extraction, which the public tends to confuse as being overly sweet. Nonetheless, this is a truly delightful wine, and I do hope a few restaurants might procure just a few bottles to have on their lists.

     For reds, my top pick of the release is the Quinta de Ventozelo 2005 Touriga Nacional ($19.95, #657452). Made from Portugal’s signature red grape, this inviting wine is extremely well-suited as an introduction to Portuguese red table wines of high quality – that is, without breaking the bank. Though admittedly a ‘hand sell,’ this delicious, polished offering remains a must-have for any proper wine list.

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Top suggestions from the September 12th Vintages Release:

White Wines:

(1) Domaine Saint-Saturnin de Vergy 2007 Chardonnay, Bourgogne Hauts Côtes de Nuits Blanc AOC, Burgundy, France: Brilliant, pale straw colour. Lots of toasted nuts at the outset, with dried apricots, nutmeg, light buttery lemon, and a trace of orange peel. Clean, with pleasant delicate fruit, balanced acidity, and a lovely hint of Bosc pears on the finish. Quite a nice, understated wine, with good structure, balance, and discernment. Acceptably priced and licensee recommended. Now-2012.
88     $19.95 (#128686)   Select Wine Merchants Inc.     (Licensee Price: $18.95)

(2) Schloss Reinhartshausen 2003 Riesling Spätlese, Erbacher Hohenrain, Rheingau, Germany: Starbright, light yellow-lime colour. Delicate honeyed scents at the outset, giving way to fresh pears, light lime and petrol, dried apricots, and a hint of ‘stony’ spice. Complex, clean, and remarkably fresh, with soft, slightly spicy fruit, balanced acidity, and a lovely hint of delicate honey and residual sugar on the finish. Beautiful, elegant Spätlese, with superb structure, balance, and style. Well priced and highly recommended. Now-2014.
89+     $23.95 (#127589)   H.H.D. Imports     (Licensee Price: $22.75)

(3) Seresin 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand: Starbright, pale lime colour. Beautiful, complex notes of fresh grass intermixed with dried apricots, light honeydew, lemon, gooseberries, and (even) a hint of spice. Clean, with delicate, zesty fruit, good acidity, and a lovely hint of grassy gooseberries on the finish. Splendid Sauvignon Blanc, with beautiful freshness, structure, and polish. Reasonably priced for the quality. Screwcap closure. Now-2010.
89     $24.95 (#735073)   Dionysus Wines     (Licensee Price: $23.70)

Red Wines:

(1) Château La Grolet 2005,Côtes de Bourg AOC, Bordeaux, France: Brilliant, dark ruby colour. Toasty, with dark mocha, currants, plums, black blueberries, earth, vanilla, and spice. Complex and clean, with good fruit, fine tannins, balanced acidity, concluding with a robust, elegant finish. Quite refined actually, with beautiful structure, balance, and style. From a lovely vineyard area of 28 hectares, of which the plantings consist of 70% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2% Malbec. Excellently priced. Now-2015.
89+     $24.95 (#126615)   Le Sommelier Inc.     (Licensee Price: $23.70)

(2) Le Clos Jordanne 2007 Pinot Noir, ‘Talon Ridge Vineyard’, Niagara Peninsula VQA: Brilliant, dark ruby colour. Toasty, with beautiful aromas of dark cherries (slightly pasteled), white mocha, red plums and licorice, Red Delicious apples, vanilla, and spice. Very complex and clean, with lovely, generous fruit, surprisingly firm tannins, balanced acidity, and a delightful hint of elegant red cherries on the finish. Sensational wine, with superb balance, structure, and refinement. Without question, winemakers Thomas Bachelder and Sébastien Jacquey have quickly established themselves as some of the greatest producers of Pinot Noir this country has ever seen. Acceptably priced for the quality. Now-2014.
92     $37.00 (#143545)   Vincor International     (Licensee Price: $35.15)

(3) Ravenswood 2006 Shiraz, 'Vintner's Blend', California: Brilliant, opaque ruby colour, with a touch of purple. Moderately toasty, with pleasant notes of leathery plums, light brambling currants, a little vanilla, dark earth, cloves, and spice. Clean, with good fruit, approachable tannins, milder acidity, and a very tasty hint of leathery plums on the finish. Very well done. For a winery whose slogan states “No Wimpy Wines,” this is surprisingly well-balanced (13.5% alcohol), decently structured, and harmonious. Reasonably priced and sommelier recommended. Now-2013.
88     $17.95 (#135350)   Churchill Cellars Ltd.     (Licensee Price: $17.05)

(4) Kangarilla Road 2006 Shiraz/Viognier, McLaren Vale, Australia: Bright, opaque ruby colour, with a touch of purple. Toasty, with intense aromas of blueberried chocolate, eucalyptus, plums, violets, vanilla, and spicy leather. Clean and full-bodied, with soft, generous fruit, supple tannins, mild acidity, and a tasty hint of ‘purple’ mocha and plums on the finish. Aged for fourteen months in new French oak, this is an exceedingly powerful wine, nonetheless boasting truly admirable structure, balance (despite 15% alcohol), and ageability. Contains 8% Viognier. Reasonably priced and licensee recommended – a guaranteed crowd-pleaser. Screwcap closure. Now-2015+.
89     $27.95 (#127548)   Whitehall Agencies Inc.     (Licensee Price: $26.55)

(5) Tenuta Sant’Antonio 2004 ‘Selezione Antonio Castagnedi’, Amarone della Valpolicella DOC, Veneto, Italy: Brilliant, opaque ruby colour. Gorgeous aromas of intense cedary plums, giving way to dark baker’s chocolate, black cherries, plums, lush undergrowth, sweet currants, and spice. Complex, clean, and very smooth, with beautiful fruit, fine tannins, balanced acidity, and a lengthy hint of dark cedary plums on the finish. Stupendous Amarone, with magnificent structure, balance, power (15.5% alcohol), and ageability. The ’03 was a blend of 70% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, 5% Croatina, and 5% Oseleta; and the ’04 probably constitutes a similar (if not the same) blend. Easily recommendable at this price. Now-2016+.
92     $44.95 (#685107)   Prevedello and Mathews     (Licensee Price: $42.70)

(6) Quinta de Ventozelo 2005 Touriga Nacional, Douro DOC, Portugal: Brilliant, dark ruby colour. Toasty, with beautiful notes of blueberried mocha, plums, slightly stewed currants, vanilla, and spice. Clean, with good, tasty fruit, fine tannins, balanced acidity, and a lingering hint of stewed plums on the finish. Delicious, well-balanced wine, with great structure, polish, and length. 100% Touriga Nacional, winemakers Sebastião Mesquita and Joaquim Trigo have done marvellous work at this particular quinta. Reasonably priced. Now-2013+.
89     $19.95 (#657452)   B & W Wines     (Licensee Price: $18.95)

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August 28, 2009 Sommelier Selects Report
August 29th Vintage Release

     For most dining establishments, it goes without saying that having a suitable wine list is critical to a restaurant’s success, as most places rely almost solely on their sales of alcohol to stay in business. And it is precisely for this reason that the cost of a single bottle of wine tends to be so expensive in most dining locales. This also explains why such a significant proportion of patrons tend to order the least expensive bottle(s) when dining out, as trading up for anything more costly can really singe one’s credit card!

     Thus, as consumers become increasingly knowledgeable about wine, it is imperative that restaurateurs and their sommeliers award ever-vigilant attention toward procuring the best-valued – and most interesting and tasty – wines they can possibly get their hands on. Granted, this can be exceedingly difficult, particularly in Ontario, where the provincial government exercises such a heavy hand in the importation and distribution of alcohol. On the other hand, to simply rely on a predictable Italian Pinot Grigio or SE Aussie Shiraz may not be in the restaurant’s best interest. By replacing most of these least expensive wines with better quality (but not necessarily more expensive) items, patrons will feel compelled sample something new and exciting, such as the 2007 Ramos Pinto ‘Duas Quintas ($15.95, #395893), to be released in LCBO stores this Saturday. Believe me, if you operate a fine dining establishment, and offer such a wine as this for around $45.00 (taking into account the licensee price), you will be well on your way toward attracting a new burgeoning audience of young urban wine enthusiasts, (hopefully) with cash to burn – damn recession.

     Speaking of this Saturday, for the August 29th Vintages release, the theme is ‘Rhône Rendezvous: wines from the north and south; plus Zin-tastic! California’s flavourful Zinfandels.’ To be perfectly honest, there were very few featured wines from this release that really grabbed my attention. Actually, considering how many of them there were to taste at the lab, a surprising number were downright disappointing.

     This being said, there were in fact a couple of featured wines that caught my attention. For whites, my top pick of the week would have to be the ‘07 Marsanne from Ferraton Père & Fils ‘La Matinière’ ($21.95, #127720), a lovely Crozes-Hermitage Blanc, beautifully crafted and well structured. For reds, the ’06 Ferraton Père & Fils ‘La Matinière’ ($21.95, #127712), a delightful Croze-Hermitage Rouge from the same winery, was also quite good, with lovely overall freshness and polish (see notes below for more details).

     Also worthy of attention, my top pick of the week for reds would have to be the ’07 Cabernet/Merlot from Wayne Gretzky Estates ($18.95, #128652), by far one of the finer ‘celebrity wines’ to come my way in a very long time. Boasting very good fruit, structure, and balance, I hope to pick up a few bottles this weekend for myself (see notes below for more details).

     And so, I hope readers shall be pleased with the rest of my suggestions for this release. And if a few of them (that is, the wines) find their way into a fine dining establishment or two, so much the better.

White Wines:

(1) 2007 Marsanne, Ferraton Père & Fils, ‘La Matinière’, Crozes-Hermitage Blanc AOC, Rhône, France: Starbright, pale yellow-lime colour. Slightly honeyed at the outset, giving way to Golden Delicious apples, minerally lentils (very mild), along with a lovely hint of wild flowers and toasted nuts. Clean, with slightly nutted fruit, balanced acidity, and a fine finish. Solidly crafted, well-structured wine, with much in the way of elegance to show for it. 100% Marsanne. Reasonably priced and sommelier recommended. Now-2012. 89 $21.95 (#127720)   Eurovintage International Inc.

(2) 2007 Marsanne/Viognier, McPherson, ‘Basilisk’, Central Victoria, Australia: Starbright, light lime colour. Intense white flowers at the outset, giving way to lovely scents of fresh lemon citrus, light white peaches, beach pebbles, plus a very delicate hint of apricots, lime, and spice. Complex and clean, with soft, delicate fruit, balanced acidity, and an attractive hint of spicy white flowers on the finish. Beautiful wine, with very good structure, balance, and originality. Contains 20% Viognier. Nicely priced. Screwcap closure. Now-2010. 88+ $19.95 (#678599)   Glen Ward Wines Inc.

(3) 2007 Riesling (Dry), Kim Crawford, Marlborough, New Zealand: Starbright, pale-light lime. Intensely pebbly at the outset, with fresh lemon citrus, light white flowers, spicy melon rind, and a trademark hint of lime to round things out. Quite clean, with lemony-limy fruit, balanced acidity, extending tastily onto the finish. Definitely very tasty, with good purity of flavour, balance, and structure. Winemaker Matt Large ought certainly to be pleased with his work in the highly successful ’07 vintage. Nicely priced. Screwcap closure. Now-2013+. 88 $19.95 (#626408)   Vincor International

(4) 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, Seifried, Nelson, New Zealand: Starbright, pale straw-lime colour. Lots of pebbly gooseberries at the outset, switching to light lemon, white grapefruit, dewy grass, and a just a touch of orange peel. Clean and zesty, with pebbly fruit, balanced acidity, and a tasty hint of grassy gooseberries on the finish. Extremely refreshing Kiwi Sauvignon, with good balance and overall harmony. Nicely priced. Now-2010. 88+ $17.95 (#957670)   Tawse Winery Inc.

Red Wines:

(1) 2004 Casa Vinicola Luigi Cecchi & Figli, ‘Cecchi’, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG, Tuscany, Italy: Brilliant, dark ruby-red currant colour. Introductory notes of light toasted cedar, subsequently revealing light mocha, dark wild cherries, a hint of baked plums, currants, and spice. Clean, with good fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, ending with a well-structured finish. Finely crafted, robust style. A blend of 90% Prugnolo Gentile (Sangiovese) and 10% “other grapes,” aged for twenty-four months in “small oak barrels.” Beautiful Vino Nobile, with a very reasonable price. Highly recommended. Now-2014. 89 $24.95 (#123588)   Select Wine Merchants Inc.

(2) 2007 Cabernet/Merlot, Wayne Gretzky Estates, ‘Estate Series’, Niagara Peninsula VQA, Canada: Bright, dark ruby colour, with a touch of purple. Toasty, with intense notes of earthy plums, currants, mocha, light red apples, and a hint of vanilla and spice. Clean, with good fruit, firm-fine tannins, balanced acidity, and a lovely hint of mocha and plums on the finish. Nice length. Sincerely admirable wine, with very good structure, balance, and precision. Acceptably priced and sommelier recommended. Now-2014. 88+ $18.95 (#128652)   PMA Canada

(3) 2005 Château L’Archange, Saint-Emilion AOC, Bordeaux, France: Surprisingly reserved for a Parkerized wine. Brilliant, opaque ruby-red currant colour. Toasty, with beautiful aromas of fresh mocha and cappuccino, currants, plums, blackberries, graham crackers, vanilla, and mild cedary spice. Complex and clean, with sumptuous, smooth fruit, fine tannins, balanced acidity, high alcohol (14.5%), and a lengthy hint of cedary dark plums and toasty mocha on the finish. Deliciously extracted, powerful, and Parkerized; nonetheless exhibiting remarkable overall structure and balance, perhaps even a trace of elegance (rare for Parkerized wines). 100% Merlot, with 450 cases made. A worthy wine for wealthy collectors. Now-2015. 90 $62.00 (#501213)   LCBO Direct

(4) 2006 Ferraton Père & Fils, ‘La Matinière’, Crozes-Hermitage AOC, Rhône, France: Brilliant, dark ruby colour. Slightly toasty, with mild white pepper, baked plums, earth, undergrowth, and spice. Clean, with good fruit, fine tannins, balanced acidity, and a nicely structured finish. Lovely overall freshness and polish. Made from 100% Syrah, and aged in oak (type unknown) for twelve months. Acceptably priced. Now-2014. 88 $21.95 (#127712)   Eurovintage International Inc.

(5) 2007 Ramos Pinto, ‘Duas Quintas’, Douro DOC, Portugal: Brilliant, dark-opaque purple colour. Moderate toasty notes, accompanied by dark brambling plums, blackberries (ever so slightly stewed), prunes, light currants, figs, and a hint of spice. Clean, with good fruit, firm tannins, balanced acidity, and a lovely hint of dark, tasty blackberried plums on the finish. Beautiful freshness and balance. Made predominantly from Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), and Touriga Nacional. Nicely priced and licensee recommended. Now-2014. 88 $15.95 (#395893)   Authentic Wines and Spirits Merchants

(6) 2006 Rolf Binder, ‘Heinrich’, Barossa Valley, Australia: Brilliant, dark-opaque red currant colour. Toasty, with intense dark red berries and other fruit, light mocha, eucalyptus, earthy leather, vanilla, and spice. Clean, with slightly cedary fruit, soft tannins, mild acidity, and a lengthy finish. Quite large, focused, and very tasty. A blend of 55% Shiraz, 25% Mataro (Mourvèdre), and 20% Grenache; aged in shaven French and American oak for 18 months. Acceptably priced. Screwcap closure. Now-2014. 88+ $29.95 (#90258)   Halpern Enterprises

Sparkling Wines:

(1) Non-Vintage La Maison du Crémant (Brut), Crémant de Bourgogne AOC, Burgundy, France: Starbright, pale straw colour. Starting off with crisp biscuits, giving way to light toast, pears, white flowers and grapefruit, mild tangerine, and a hint of chalk. Complex, clean, and crisp, with milder styled fruit, good acidity, and a nicely integrated finish. Good craftsmanship and balance. Agreeably priced. Now-2011. 88 $18.95 (#127811)   Dionysus Wines

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August 22, 2009 Sommelier Selects Report
Buying Wines On Consignment

           Without question, the system employed by the Ontario government for the sale and distribution of alcohol is one of the most convoluted in the universe; and as I mentioned in my column last week, nothing is going to change anytime soon. This being said, there is, in fact, more than one way to purchase alcohol in our mean-spirited province.

     I am referring to buying wines ‘on consignment.’ These days, there are dozens of private wine agencies that operate throughout the province of Ontario, many of which carry wines (some of them extremely good) that are not available in LCBO outlets. While these agencies are not permitted to sell their alcoholic beverages in private stores directly to the consumer, they are allowed to sell alcohol via delivery to private residences.

However, there is a catch: all wines must be sold by the case usually consisting of twelve bottles (sometimes cases of six for more expensive wines), and there is normally an added ‘consignment fee’ for delivery. As a result, wine enthusiasts – that is, those who are presently aware of the consignment system – have always felt a certain degree of reservedness, myself included, about laying out so much money at one go for a case of wine they might have only read about (such as by yours truly) and never actually tasted.

     Fortunately, a good number of these private agencies are now holding annual tastings, to which past customers, wine writers, and friends are often invited. Sometimes, one has to pay a fee to attend these tastings, with the revenue generated used to cover costs and the rest, more often than not, going to charity. This affords potential buyers the opportunity to sample an agency’s wines before they decide on making a purchase.

     This week, I would like to draw readers’ attention to Stem Wine Group (www.stemwinegroup.com). Owned and operated by Robert Tomé and Tony Macchione, this is one of Ontario’s more successful private wine agencies. Founded in 2003, Robert and Tony have spent the past six years assembling an admirable portfolio of different wines from around the world, many of which are of Italian extraction. About a month ago, several wine writers and I sat down with them at Vertical Restaurant (located at First Canadian Place in downtown Toronto) to taste some of their wines from Andeluna Cellars, a relatively new Argentinean venture based out of the promising Uco Valley, located about eighty kilometres south of Mendoza.   

  Located on 200 acres of premium quality vineyards, lies Andeluna's state-of-the-art winery. The winery building itself covers 48,000 square feet and has a one million liter tank capacity, a 1,200 barrel aging capacity and a 720,000 bottle storage capacity. Set among the foothills of the Andes at over 1,300 meters (4,265 feet), Andeluna Cellars is a remarkably beautiful place and visitors enjoy spectacular views of the surrounding areas and dine on deliciously authentic Argentine cuisine served in elegant dining facilities. There are four separate tasting areas to enjoy and a walk on the grounds is the perfect way to experience the beauty of the winery and vineyards while enjoying Argentina's finest wines with the magnificent Andes in the background.

   
 It was great to meet Silvio Alberto, one of the rising stars of Argentina's new breed of winemakers. He was recently recognized as "Outstanding Young Winemaker of the Year" in Argentina and draws upon the expertise of celebrated French Winemaker, Michel Rolland, for guidance, support and vision. The wines produced by this dynamic winemaking team are made in a style that allows them to compete with the greatest wines in the world.

For the most part, I found many of the wines to be quite good, and by the end of the tasting I had four recommendations to pass on to my fellow wine enthusiasts. As you can see below, both the ‘08 Torrontés and the ’06 ‘Grand Reserve Pasionado’ are currently available for ordering (delivery usually takes a couple of business days). The other two wines, listed as ‘private order,’ are currently unavailable; yet the agency (in this case Stem Wine Group), may be able to call up the winery and secure a case or two for a private household.

While this often takes a couple of months, if the wine is well priced and high in quality, the wait is obviously worth it. I realize this may all sound very complicated, but this is how the system works in Ontario – and nothing (once again) is going to change anytime soon. Truly, there can be some very fine wines to be had from private agencies that are not sold at LCBO stores. For wine enthusiasts then, buying on consignment can (at least potentially) open up an exciting new world of undiscovered gems. And if you don’t want to buy a case of twelve bottles, my advice would be to split the purchase with a friend. Just make sure any ‘consignment fees’ are divided up equally.

Here are my suggestions from this Tasting:

White Wines:

(1) 2005 Chardonnay, Andeluna Cellars, ‘Reserve’, Tupungato (Mendoza), Argentina: Starbright, pale yellow-lime. Toasty and complex, with delicate notes of apricots, pears, butterscotch, vanilla, oak, and a hint of fresh lemon. Clean and soft, with good fruit, balanced acidity, and a fine finish. Rather tasty to say the least, with good structure, balance (an agreeable 13.1% alcohol), and precision. Acceptably priced. Now-2013. 88 $24.00    Stem Wine Group (Private Order Only)

(2) 2008 Torrontés, Andeluna Cellars, ‘Winemaker’s Selection’, Mendoza, Argentina: Starbright, pale straw-lime. Intense notes of sweet citrus grass, lemon, stony pebbles, white flowers, and spice. Clean and crisp, with lovely mild fruit, balanced acidity, and a refreshing finish. Impressive Torrontés, with good freshness, individual character, and balance. Reasonably priced. Screwcap closure. Now-2010. 87++ $15.99    Stem Wine Group (Available in Cases of 12)

Red Wines:

(1) 2006 ‘Grand Reserve Pasionado’, Andeluna Cellars, Mendoza, Argentina: Bright, dark ruby. Toasty, with beautiful aromas of red currants and plums, dark cherries, mocha, light game, vanilla, spice, and the slightest hint of cedar. Complex and clean, with well-structured, yet forward fruit, soft tannins, milder acidity, and ending with a long, delicious finish. Superb structure, balance (despite the 14.9% alcohol), and length. A blend of 49% Malbec, 26% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 8% Cabernet Franc; and aged in new French (85%) and American (15%) American oak for eighteen months. Not cheap yet well worth the price, especially when compared to its North American counterparts. Now-2014+. 91 $48.99    Stem Wine Group (Available in Cases of 6)

(2) 2006 Malbec, Andeluna Cellars, ‘Reserve’, Mendoza, Argentina: Brilliant, dark-opaque ruby. Toasty, with slightly meaty red currants, plums, red apples, violets, vanilla, and a hint of spice. Clean and well structured, with good fruit, fine tannins, milder acidity, and a solid finish. Impressive craftsmanship and balance (a nicely managed 13.7% alcohol), with a greater sense of overall reservedness than anticipated. Also contains 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Indeed quite tasty and acceptably priced. Now-2014. 88+ $24.00    Stem Wine Group (Private Order Only)

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