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Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist - Michael Vaughan

A Marriage made in Poultry Heaven

(Publishing Date: Saturday September 30, 2000  - Toronto Section)  

The harvest has rolled in and visions of next weekend’s Thanksgiving Day turkey is at hand. Pangs of guilt of this annual decimation are balanced by my desire to serve a special libation providing the appropriate homage to this noble bird.

There’s no point panicking over this decision – as the Eagles sang, “take it easy.” Personally, I am bored sick with some traditional red wine recommendations that often don’t work. For my palate, most Pinot Noirs or worse yet Gamays (as in Beaujolais) don’t cut the mustard.

Why? Well, while they do have the fine complementary bright cherry fruit flavours, they often lack the creamy structure and fruit sweetness to properly work with the bird. There are exceptions. Some great mature Burgundies (almost impossible to find and/or afford) are bound to bring the guests to their knees. But most of the other big noble reds have so much tannin and intensity that they overwhelm the delicacy of the meat. Naturally, how the bird is prepared and what vegetables it is served with will ultimately determine the best marriage.

Having said that, if you want to go for a red, select those that are fruit forward and perhaps even have a touch of sweetness. A fine, well-priced example would be Sutter Home 1997 California Pinot Noir a modest $10.45 (LCBO general list) which has just the right, spicy, rounded, cherry flavours. When visiting the LCBO make sure you pick up the 86-page Autumn 2000 Price Book which has finally arrived.

For my taste, whites such as Chardonnay and Riesling provide the perfect marriage. I eliminate mineral-directed ultra-dry, crisp Chards, such as Chablis, which don’t seem to interface well with turkey. Ditto for the ultra-dry tart Rieslings. Two outstanding locally-produced selections are Cilento 1998 Chardonnay Reserve ($18.95 – winery only) with its lovely ripe pear flavours as well as Cilento 1998 Riesling with its sensuous, bright, slightly honeyed, melon flavours (a bargain at $11.45 – winery only). It’s definitely worth the detour to pick these best buys directly from the winery located just north of Toronto in Woodbridge – call (905) 264-9463 for directions. It’s also possible to place an order for delivery.

Another Thanksgiving consideration might be the new wave of fruit wines which I reviewed earlier this year. A long time Vintage’s “Essentials” favourite is the Stoney Ridge 1999 Cranberry which was originally produced for the Wahta Mohawk Indian Band in 1994 from locally harvested cranberries (cspc 392191 - $12.95). While this bright cranberry-coloured red has a sugar code of “3” (meaning 3% residual sugar), it has enough crisp acidity to keep the candied sweet cranberry flavours at bay. It’s somewhat akin to drinking a semi-sweet cranberry sauce and will definitely delight those who haven’t been totally converted to dry reds.

A total change of pace might be brewski! Yes beer, but not any beer. Unable to reach Canadian beer maestro Stephen Beaumont, I searched his just-released excellent new Premium Beer Drinker’s Guide (in vain) for clues about two pumpkin ales that are now on the market. My comparative blind tasting initially found me preferring the slightly milder, golden coloured Hart Fall Special Reserve (cspc 680017 - $3.45 /650 ml) a lovely sipper with a dry crisp finish. Brewed in Ottawa each fall it is made from puréed pumpkin and spices. Unfortunately, it’s as hard to find as hen’s teeth. Only three stores in the Toronto region have it – two in Mississauga and Cloverdale Mall. The widely available contender McAuslan Spiced Pumpkin Ale from Quebec has a deep golden pumpkin colour and more intense, richer, significantly spicier, clove flavours that married well with the bird (three 341 ml bottles sell for $5.85). Perhaps this is the perfect opportunity to do your own pumpkin ale taste-off!

Beer fans are reminded that today’s the last day (from 4 to 11 pm) for the fifth annual gathering of brewers  at the University of Guelph’s Great Canadian Brewing Festival. Over 300 beers from some 50 brewing companies will be appearing at the University of Guelph’s Gryphon Centre - Twin Pad Arena. Admission is $12 – call 519-824-4120, ext. 2219 for information.

For Thanksgiving finishers, I would be tempted to dig out a half bottle of icewine. Having said that, I am almost ashamed to admit my fondness for stunningly delicious, sweet, ripe raspberry-driven Southbrook Framboise - widely available at a reasonable $14.95 for a 375 ml bottle (General List cspc 341024).

For loyal Canadians, a great finisher would be a maple liqueur. I remember when Otto Rieder first launched this elixir almost two decades ago here in Ontario. Today, John Hall owner of Kittling Ridge continues the tradition with his Oh Canada Maple Liqueur (currently on sale until October 10^th at $22.95) which has some sweetish, very slightly peppery, maple-brandy flavours. The sweeter, creamier, new kid on the block is Maple Leaf Maple Liqueur ($23.95) which comes from Winnipeg and has delicious, sweet, coconut pie and rich maple syrup flavours. Don’t miss pouring the latter over your steaming, hot, breakfast pancakes – yum! Both are available in LCBO stores.