Recent Articles Archive of National Post Articles
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Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist - Michael Vaughan Discoveries From the Pacific Northwest
(Publishing Date: Saturday October 28, 2000 - Toronto Section) Last July I
toured a number of vineyards in Oregon and Washington prior to attending
the World Vinifera conference in Seattle. It was an eye opening
experience, especially as a long time had passed since my last visit. What struck me
immediately was the prolific number of new wineries. In Washington, for
instance, there are now over 150 wineries with a new one opening every 13
days (up from 90 just two years ago). Vinifera plantings now stand at
24,806 acres, twice what it was six years ago. This compares to some 6,000
vinifera acres in Ontario. In other words, the state is on a roll. And talk about
variety, there’s everything from Rick Small’s legendary Woodward
Canyon (two are available but untasted in this month’s Fall Classics
Catalogue) to Ambrosia by Kristy – Kristy Anderson’s first
mead-exclusive winery. Washington
mainstays have been Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and the tasty
but hard-to-sell Riesling. Key producers include Chateau Ste. Michelle,
which was founded in 1934 and is the state’s oldest winery. Indeed, if
you include its production with its associate at Columbia Crest, they
account for one of every two bottles in the state.
Perhaps the
most exciting new style to emerge from Washington is Syrah, which is the
essence of many great Rhone reds and, of course, often done so well in
Australia. Of the two are coming out in the Classics, I suggest you try
the less expensive Glen Fiona 1999
Syrah Bacchus Vineyard at $33. I tried their 1998 which is available
at $49 and was mildly overwhelmed by this Syrah’s idiosyncratic,
leathery, smoky, meaty flavours that may not everyone’s cup of tea.
These are powerful wines which go well with game. Oregon, home of
white Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir is no slough with its 156 wineries. It is
a much smaller area with only Two new Oregon releases on the General List
are Bridgeview 1998 Oregon
Gewurztraminer $13.75 and
Foris 1997 Rogue Valley Gewurztraminer at $17.90. The Bridgeview is
medium-light bodied with very gently honeyed, just off-dry, ripe orange
flavours. The Foris has greater varietal typicity with drier, lychee-green
pear fruit flavours. Both are pleasant enough but do not necessarily
warrant a detour at the price. They are a fine match with poultry or spicy
Thai cuisine.
Two sparkling
wines worth mentioning are only available through Ontario agents. The
first is Argyle 1989 Extended
Tirage Brut an ultra-delicious Champagne-inspired bubbly that has been
left to rest on its lees for 11 years resulting in creamy, gently toasty,
ripe, apricot-lemon flavours that go on and on. At approximately $50
it’s a private order through Edwards Wines (416-405-8989) and will be
tasted for the first time in Canada in North Bay next weekend.
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