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Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist - Michael Vaughan

Gallo releases a titan

(Publishing Date: Saturday October 14, 2000  - Toronto Section)  

There’s no time to beat about the bush. Today’s LCBO Vintages release sees the emergence of one of the best Cabernet Sauvignons to come out of California. No, I am not talking about Napa’s treasures – not 1996 Dominus ($264 per magnum from the Classics), nor the elegant Robert Mondavi 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (being re-released next Saturday at $149.75) or the fine, bright, cedary Caymus 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon (in today’s release at $109.95).

I am talking about the sleeping giant from Sonoma - Gallo 1996 Northern Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon Estate-Bottled bargain priced at only $59.95. Until 1995, it was sourced exclusively from Gallo’s Frei Ranch vineyard. In 1996 they switched 100% to their Dry Creek’s Stefani vineyard. And what a difference – this winner is even better than before. The grapes reached 25.4 brix which translates into 14.5% alcohol. The nose is intense, spicy and surprisingly un-Californian with its gently earthy, mushroom notes. The taste is rich, complex and slightly smoky with ripe plum, cedar and limes plus an earthy lingering finish. 

It’s reminiscent of a cross between a fine second growth St-Julien and Chateau Margaux! A great effort. Fortunately, Gallo has allocated a large proportion of their production to the Ontario market - 375 cases of 6. Although approachable today, it will definitely be better in 2-3 years time. It’s worth the money, so don’t miss it!

Moving on to one of my favourite whites, Sauvignon Blanc, there are several fine efforts. First and most accessible is the delicious Palliser Estate 1999 Sauvignon Blanc Pencarrow at $15.40. Hailing from New Zealand’s Malborough region its very dry, crisp, zesty, grassy, grapefruit peel flavours are a perfect marriage for oysters. Ironically, this wine got better and better in bottle as it opened up. After two days it acquired delicious red peach flavours!

A more traditional oyster match from the Loire would be my French favourite – Chavet 1999 Ménétou Salon at $18.95. Its dry, slightly chalky, pleasantly herbal, grassy flavours would also be the perfect foil for rich seafood dishes. It’s well balanced and at its peak, although some are bound to find it excessively grassy!

In the cheap and cheerful departments, it’s hard to beat Chile’s Concha y Toro 1999 Sauvignon Blanc Casillero del Diablo at only $9.80. It has very bright, dry, unoaked, slightly grassy, warm, orange citrus, crowd-pleasing flavours.

Moving in a much more flavourful direction we have from Western Australia’s Margaret River the Vasse Felix 1998 Semillon at $19.95. Behind the deep yellow colour we find intense, stewed grapefruit and honeyed marmalade flavours with a blisteringly crisp long finish.  I liked it, although it isn’t for everyone.  Try with rich Thai cuisine.

Moving on to the reds, one of the prettier wines is Vintages Wine of the Month - Fetzer 1997 California Syrah at $16.95. This blend of 93% Syrah and 7% Zinfandel was fermented in stainless steel and aged in oak for 13 months. It’s quite rich and gamey with well structured, slightly smoky, cedary, black cherry purée flavours that show good length. A real crowd-pleasing style that will work perfectly with BBQ ribs.

In the same vein but somewhat lighter in structure is Firesteed 1998 Oregon Pinot Noir at $17.95. It’s light red in colour with crisp, medium-light bodied, zesty, red cherry purée flavours with some zesty ruby grapefruit notes on the finish. The fresh Pinot Noir flavours are at their peak.

A release “best buy” is the ready-to-drink French red from the Midi - 1998 Clos de l’Orb at a very modest $8.95. This Saint-Chinian blend of 40% Syrah, 30% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre and 20% Carignan with partial carbonic maceration is dry but rounded with slightly spicy, plum purée flavours and a slightly tart, toasty, blueberry-driven finish.

Another great buy is the slightly richer, smoky Domaine Pelaquié 1998 Côte-du-Rhône Villages Landun - great value at $11.95. It’s well structured and mouthfilling (14% alcohol) with ripe, warm, plum purée flavours and some chocolaty licorice on the finish. Great for a roast beef, stews and game.

For laying away is Mas des Bressades 1998 Cabernet/Syrah at $14.80. This extracty youthful Vin de Pays du Gard from the Midi has 14.5% alcohol and a very deep purple colour. Its solid, very dry, earthy, slightly weedy flavours that need another 2-3 years to evolve.

For fans of mature Bordeaux, don’t miss the 1985 Chateau Haut-Simard at $49. This Merlot-based aging Saint-Émilion has a fairly deep ambering red colour. It’s complex, ripe and mature on the palate with plummy-prune flavours and a fine, earthy, lingering red licorice finish.  Don’t let it breathe. 

Coming up: Book today for the October 23^rd Annual Sonoma Wineries Association Tasting from 7-9 pm at Toronto’s Arcadian Court. For information call 1-800-890-4974. Featuring 36 wineries, you can check out the results of my comparative blind pre-tasting of some 60 wines by clicking here.