Recent Articles
Archive of National Post Articles
Springtime
Vintage gifts for you mom
Michael
Vaughan
Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
National Post • Saturday, May 5, 2001
With
Spring finally in the air, today’s Vintages release has some special
finds for Mother’s Day. Of 13 Chardonnays released, let me kick off with
the best - Malivoire
1999 Chardonnay. Its fine buttered toast and bright ripe pear
purée flavours are complimented with excellent structure and a zesty,
refreshing, lingering finish. It’s fine value at $21.95 and is even
better than their very good 1998. Perfect for poultry and white meats.
Keep
in mind that it doesn’t reach the stratospheric peaks of Malivoire 1999 Moira Vineyard Chardonnay with
its stunning lingering lime purée flavours.
Of course, the latter costs more - $35.95 at the winery ($38 in the
upcoming Classics Catalogue). Understanding the difference between these
two will explain this price differential. Winemaker Ann Sperling explains
that this one comes from the
significantly lower-yielding Moira vineyard (planted in 1995) meaning that
it has greater extract and alcohol – 14.5% vs 13.8%. While both have
100% malolactic fermentation, the Moira had full lees stirring for eight
months (vs six months), which significantly raises Moira’s creamy
mouthfeel.
Fifty
percent of both were aged in fine French oak (half new), the balance in
stainless steel. Moira’s final assemblage saw an additional two months
in barrels prior to bottling. Fortunately, both had very gentle coarse
filtration (down to only 3 microns vs .45 microns) which means that
neither has been stripped of its character. The result is a white that makes
a mustard-glazed roasted pork tenderloin sing!
About
a quarter of Malivoire’s production of his $21.95 Chardonnay (224 of 947
cases) was donated to this Vintages May release. I use the word
“donated” because the return to the winery is much smaller when
compared to the profits realized when the same wine is sold through the
winery store where it is almost sold out. This is part of owner Martin
Malivoire’s decision share to his wealth with fans across Ontario. I
suggest that you jump on a bottle of two as very little stock remains.
Better yet, it’s the kind of wine that’s bound to bring a smile to any
mother’s discerning lips. And if your mom happens to be a winetasting
nut, then call the winery at 905-563-9253 and get a bottle or so of both.
(www.malivoirewineco.com)
Moving
one, we have to face the reality that not all moms are hooked on Chard. If
zesty, gently honeyed, grapefruity flavours are a turn on, then search no
more - Stoney
Ridge 1999 Riesling Reserve a VQA from the Beamsville Bench Kew
vineyard is bound to whet your appetite. Not only is it well priced at
$13.95; this Toronto Wine & Cheese Show award winner is the perfect
white for seafood. Indeed, it is my favourite Riesling of the May release
with a great bright bouquet focusing on slightly gingery, honeyed, warmed
melon fruit.
Keep
in mind that there’s nothing quite like the joys of a good Riesling
which is clawing its way back to respectability. A pox on those who
mistakenly believe that to be “great”, Riesling has to be dry. Having
just assessed hundreds of German wines I was amazed that many of the best
had very slight residual sugar. Not only were they more delicious, they
were amazingly food-friendly.
Another
good example from today’s release is the still-youthful Gunderloch 1999 Jean-Baptiste Riesling Kabinett
at $14.95, which has spicy, crisp, medium-light bodied, lemony- pear and
melon flavours. It’s a perfect foil for fresh rainbow trout gently pan
fried with sweet butter and slivered almonds.
From
Bordeaux we have a well-priced delicious little ditty that fills the niche
perfectly. The wine in question is 1999
Chateau de la Grave a $12.95 charmer from the Côtes de Bourg
region. This blend of 70% Semillon and 30% Colombard has been given some
barrel aging endowing it with some cedary-vanilla notes complimenting its
fairly rich, expressive, green pear purée flavours and fine lingering
finish. A great buy, it’s at its peak of drinkability.
If
reds are on your mind, the hands-down best buy of the release is the
sumptuous Taltarni
1998 Shiraz a steal at only $19.75. Unfortunately, the Vintages
Catalogue incorrectly identifies it as the 1999. Be sure not to miss this
1998 with its lovely, slightly smoky, ripe black cherry purée flavours
complete with a lingering cedary finish.
Taltarni,
the sister company of Napa’s Clos du Val, was established in 1972 in the
Pyrenees district of central Victoria by John Goelet. The 1700-acre
property has 300 acres under vine. This excellent Shiraz complete with 14%
alcohol was made from 25-year old vines and received eighteen months of
oak aging. While it is surprisingly approachable today, it has the ability
to age gracefully for another five years.
Finally,
for those wishing to butter up their mom, nothing beats a wee glass of a
fine Oloroso
Eva Cream Sherry – a serious bargain at only $12.95. Its
rich, creamy, sweet, maple syrup-ish, caramel, plum and apple purée
flavours will capture the heart of any mom.
Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada
2004
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
(electronic or other wise) and or quotation.
Contact Michael Vaughan at
mbv@total.net