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Bubblies
to lift your spirits
Michael
Vaughan • Wine & Spirits Columnist
National Post • Saturday, March 3, 2001
It’s almost Spring and
for my taste there’s nothing better than a precocious glass of bubbly to
get the juices flowing. Next Saturday’s Vintages release of 130 products
features three sparklers worthy of a detour.
The
crème de la crème is Brice
‘Bouzy’ Grand Cru Champagne Brut at $49.70 which is
excellent value given its superior quality. This blend of 80% Pinot Noir
and 20% Chardonnay has a deep yellow colour and a lovely grapefruit nose
with some biscuity notes. Its
bright, ripe grapefruit flavours finish with a delicious silky flourish.
Jean-Paul Brice was one
of the three growers who founded Barancourt in 1966 and is now producing
under his own name. Despite
suggestions that Bouzy refers to the impact this bubbly has on the
imbiber, it’s really a distinct village vineyard in the Grand Cru
Montagne de Reims region.
Those
searching for a less expensive Champagne-substitute are advised to snap up
some Maison Guinot Crémant de Limoux Impérial Brut
Tendre at only $15.50. Let me assure you that there’s nothing
tender about this brut! It’s a great food bubbly with fairly robust,
very dry, toasty, apricot flavours and a long, nutty, lemony finish. Made
in the classic “méthode traditionnelle” in the Midi, this blend of
70% Mauzac along with Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay is at its peak of
drinkability.
Thankfully
there’s even relieve for those brave enough to admit that they don’t
relish the robust, toasty, dry character of classic Champagne. On the
light and floral side is a charming gentle sparkler, which comes
in a most attractive blue bottle - Foss
Marai Prosecco Extra Dry at $15.90. Its honeyed, fresh
apricot-red apple aromas and crisp, just off-dry flavours are perfect for
an informal brunch. Made from Prosecco grapes originating from the Veneto
region, it is more of a frizzante
without the full effervescence of Champagne.
Perfect for Sunday brunch.
Moving
on to the whites, my best buy is a relatively unsung hero of the Dao
region in central northern Portugal. Sogrape
1999 Dão Duque de Viseu Vinho Branco ($11.75) has almost a
poetic, fresh, floral, grapefruit aroma with a bright, medium-light bodied
finish - a perfect match for seafood and appetizers.
This vibrant blend of
Encruzado, Assario Branco and Cerceal comes from the 50-hectare granitic
Mangualde vineyard. While it may be better known for its reds, here’s a
Dao that’s at its peak of drinkability and certainly deserves its
“Essential” status as a continuous Vintages listing.
The
Caymus Vineyards 1999 Napa Sauvignon Blanc
may well be the most opulent, crowd-pleasing white of the release. It
isn’t cheap at $29.90 and some might say that it’s been fudged by six
months oak aging and the addition of 10% Chardonnay. The result, however,
is yummy – creamy, delightfully textured, ripe pear purée flavours with
lingering French vanilla ice cream on the finish. It’s the kind of wine
that leaves a smile on your face!
Of the 12 Chardonnays
being released, I had some trouble with the Burgundies, which simply
didn’t deliver sufficient value for money. If you’re a fan, make sure
you get a ticket ($45) for the March 20th Vintages “Prearrival”
tasting (a pricelist of 107+ Burgundies being presented is on my website).
My
favourite Chard at $26.75 was the crème brûlée driven Carneros
Creek 1997 Palombo Vineyard Chardonnay which
has rounded, slightly spicy, fresh baked pear custard flavours and a
buttered toast finish. It just edged out a new Ontario entry Peninsula
Ridge 1999 Chardonnay Reserve ($24.95) that is a tad brighter
with crisp Anjou pear fruit and a fine lingering lemony finish. Either
would go well with white meats and poultry.
In the red department,
don’t miss two well-priced Portuguese bargains. The first is Sogrape 1997 Dão Duque de Viseu Vinho Tinto
($13.75), which is the Vintages “wine of the month”. Its cedary,
clove-driven, sun dried tomato nose gives way to plummy leathery-earthy
flavours. This well balanced, ready to enjoy effort would go well with
barbeque ribs.
Another, somewhat mature,
idiosyncratic red worth exploring is the tasty Caves Aliança 1997 Classico Tinto at
only $11.50. The nose exudes spicy, plum purée and red licorice. On the
palate its fairly rich and rounded with red peppers, sun dried tomato and
a lingering, leathery, gamey finish.
This interesting blend of Baga (from Bairrada) and Touriga Nacional
(from Dão) which is at or perhaps just past peak and would be ideal
choice with grilled meats.
Copyright
Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2004
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
(electronic or other wise) and or quotation.
Contact Michael Vaughan at
mbv@total.net