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The
undiscovered splendour of New Zealand reds
Michael
Vaughan • Wine & Spirits Columnist
National Post • Saturday, March 10, 2001
In
addition to last week’s recommendations for today’s Vintages release
features a handful of extra-special reds. My top buy comes from the
emerald isles that are now producing an amazing diversity of fine wines.
No it’s not Ireland, it’s that tiny appendage to Australia called New
Zealand, which is often thought of as simply the world’s best producer
Sauvignon Blanc.
There
isn’t anything quite like discovering this country’s gems first-hand.
The two islands stretch some 1,600 km and offer a great diversity of
growing conditions mostly of a maritime persuasion. Indeed it’s
incredible to think that so few people, a scant 3.8 million (think of a
Toronto suburb) could now account for over 300 vibrant wineries.
What’s
so amazing is that these are the classic European varieties that growers
up until recently were told wouldn’t grow. And while it is true that
Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay still account for 29.8% and 23.4% of
plantings respectively, reds are on a tear.
Unfortunately,
we don’t see many of them in Ontario. And there are many reasons. First,
there isn’t much to go around - most of the wineries are tiny. Second,
the best reds are gobbled up by the domestic market as well as aggressive
offshore UK and US buyers. The LCBO is usually much too slow in snapping
up the best. Finally, consumers are unaware of the recent tremendous
transformation in quality and are reluctant to buy.
Well
let me tell you that now is the time to try. Because thanks to Vintages,
there’s a 188-case showstopper at today’s release – the deep purple
coloured Kemblefield
1988 Merlot at only $16.80. This wine is perfectly accessible
with a gently slightly spicy, earthy, warm roasted ripe black cherry,
vanilla bean nose. It’s quite lovely on the palate with intense,
sweetish, cassis and black cherry flavours and a dab of French vanilla ice
cream on the finish.
For
those who need offshore affirmation, it received a gold medal and was
awarded “Top of the Class” of all Merlot/Cabernet Franc 1997/98 reds
at the 11th annual Small Vignerons Awards ("Winewise" the
Australian consumer wine guide).
Grown
in the Mangatahi district of Hawke's Bay, it’s handcrafted by the
inimitable John Kemble. A UC Davis graduate, John spent 9 years as head
winemaker at Sonoma’s Ravenswood before discovering the unique gravely
soils in this hot day, cool night, inland microclimate in 1993. His wines
are growing in stature every year and his Chardonnay (especially the
excellent, well-priced, pear-driven Terrace
View 1998 Chardonnay which has yet to be ordered by the LCBO)
is also worthy of a detour.
The
obvious keys to quality are low yielding, perfectly ripe and flavourful
fruit of this estate’s 1998 vintage. While it all starts in the
vineyards, to my mind equally important is the methodology of Kemble’s
small-lot open-top fermentation and hand plunging of the cap. Not only
does this soften the tannins, but it also brings out the fruit flavours.
The addition of French oak barrel ageing is the icing on the cake. For
further information check out www.kemblefield.co.nz
A
totally ignored red released in last month’s Vintages is the bright,
well structured C.J.
Pask 1998 Cabernet/Merlot Gimblett Road
another bargain at $19.95. Its appealing ripe, fruity, plummy,
sundried tomato purée flavours with just a hint of smoky Islay Malt on
the finish are ready to enjoy. This fine 80-20 blend spent 15 months in
French and American oak. See www.cjpaskwinery.co.nz
Fortunately,
I was sent a review sample by Celebrated
Cellars who lamented that it wasn’t tasted at the LCBO lab. Indeed,
it’s ridiculous that these Vintages “Selected Distribution” items
are not featured at the preview tastings. Why? Because despite LCBO claims
that they sell out immediately and, therefore, don’t need the exposure -
they don’t! More than a month has passed and still some 17cases out of
the 56 released are languishing on the shelves!
This
P.J. Pask red is also from the Hawkes Bay region but this time from a
brand new region much closer to the coast called Gimblett Gravels, which
is the world’s newest appellation (see www.gimblettgravels.com).
Utilizing the French concept of terroir, some 34 wineries have banded
together to recently launch what they believe to be the ultra-premium
district of the future. Having recently tasted many of these new wines, I
believe that their strength is in blending where the sum is more than the
parts. Merlot remains my favourite base component and hopefully the LCBO
will continue sourcing the best buys.
For
those of you wanting to explore further, check out the just-updated Pocket
Guide to Wines of New Zealand by
Michael Cooper ($29.95) in the Mitchell Beazley series. For a more
detailed look rating some 1,700 wines is the annual 360-page soft cover Buyer’s
Guide to New Zealand Wines 2001 ($29.95 NZ) also Michael
Cooper. Much more colourful is Bob Campbell’s magazine-styled 2001 Cuisine Wine Annual ($14.95
NZ) which can be ordered over the cuisine.co.nz
website and is very user-friendly. Also
there’s the general background New Zealand website (www.wine-nz.com)
as well as MW Bob Campbell’s website (bobcampbell.co.nz)
focusing on what’s happening in New Zealand
Updates:
• Next Monday (March 12th)
at 9 am the telephone lines for the Classics
Catalogue open (1-800-266-4764). There are 420 products listed and to
date only a paltry two dozen have been previewed in the LCBO lab.
Fortunately, some well-priced bargains are still available (see my
evaluations in the Subscriber Section of my website).
• For those wanting to attend the March 20th Vintages 1999 Burgundy Prearrival tasting (3 to 6 pm) –unfortunately it’s sold out (we were the first to post information on the event and wine list on our website).
• I will be attending the annual Rhone Ranger events in San Francisco on March 31st (see www.rhonerangers.com) and perhaps will see you there.
•
You be able to sample two great award-winning New Zealand reds at the
upcoming annual Toronto Wine &
Cheese Show kicking off at the International Center on Friday, March
23rd until Sunday, March 25th. Subscribers have been
sent a complimentary $15 ticket. A complete list of Food & Beverage
Testing Institute winners will appear in the National Post on opening day!
Finally, I want to personally thank readers/subscribers for their continued support. You can contact me at mbv@total.net (I will try but can’t always guarantee a timely reply).
Copyright
Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2004
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
(electronic or other wise) and or quotation.
Contact Michael Vaughan at
mbv@total.net