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Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist - Michael Vaughan

A case of the disappearing reds

(Publishing Date: Saturday July 15, 2000  - Toronto Section)

Reader feedback on Vintages "Selected Distribution" ("SD") system discussed last Saturday was not enthusiastic. The LCBO boldly states that these wines are only available at 21 "larger faster turnover" stores across the province. Unfortunately and in much smaller type it reveals that ‘some stores may not carry all these items.’

Now that may not sound important, at least until you get an irate call from a reader who went to the LCBO’s fourth largest store at 401 and Weston ("Crossroads") only to discover that their wine of choice wasn’t there. Coming up empty handed is enough to make the jolliest of us grumpy.

Of course there is the second line of small print, which instructs: contact Store Manager or Product Consultant for further details. "Did you check ahead of time?" I asked. "Yes, I was told that it was ordered but it never showed up!"

I don’t know how often this happens, but it certainly must be frustrating. Delving into the matter further, I discover that what goes to a designated store depends on whether the store actually orders it. In other words, if for whatever reason it isn’t ordered, it will not be sent!

With 21 stores, it makes sense that there would have to be at least 21 cases of a wine available for every store to get a case. As last Saturday’s quantities varied from 28 to 100 cases, there was enough for everyone.

As for Crossroads, which normally orders all of the "SD" wines, it only had 13 (or 80%) of the 16 items. However this happened, it strikes me that all the larger stores should have the full complement of all 16 wines available - even if it means only a single case of six bottles.

The LCBO’s suggestion to call the store doesn’t hold water. Why? Because in many instances these new wines are not entered into the computer until just prior to the release (sometimes meaning Saturday morning). To make life easier, call the LCBO "infoline" (416-365-5900) where you should be able to discover exactly where your prized wine resides. I have been assured by Vintages that this will be available by Wednesday "at the latest" just prior to the release. Let’s hope so.

The Vintages’ belief that not presenting these wines for tasting somehow ameliorates "excess demand" is ludicrous. It failed miserably in the case of last Saturday’s release of Cloudy Bay Chardonnay. Fortunately, most stores limited sales from one to three bottles per customer ensuring fair distribution. Unfortunately, most of the other untasted "SD" wines are now orphans languishing on the shelf. To rectify this situation let me recommend the Yarra Ridge 1997 Reserve Shiraz ($29.70). It’s gently spicy, rounded, ripe black cherry flavours have wide appeal and are ready to enjoy, perhaps with barbecue ribs or juicy veal chop just off the grill.

Another just-released red getting my best buy thumbs up is Grant Burge 1997 Shiraz Filsell - a most reasonable $22.95. It comes with the same black cherry Shiraz fruit but with greater structure and intensity plus lots of cedary-baked raspberry flavours. As these two Shiraz were not tasted side-by-side, using definitive scores out of 100 points can be misleading. Let me suggest that the Burge is bigger (with 14% alcohol vs 13%), capable of longer aging and stylistically leans in a Wolf Blass direction.

For fans of the cheap and cheerful, don’t miss the bright, slightly spicy, raspberry flavoured Randall Bridge 1998 Shiraz which is a definite crowd pleaser at only $10.95

At the opposite end of the spectrum, I am disappointed with the "Vintages Red Wine of the Month" - the tart, light, malic Viu Manent 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon ($11.40). Not much better is the herbaceous Terranoble 1998 Merlot ($11.45). It’s surprising that such Chilean disappointments ended up at Vintages, but then neither of this month’s Bordeaux reds impressed either.

Even worse, I feel almost betrayed (as a great French hybrid fan) by the downright awful Herdner 1998 Baco Noir. Its sour, tart, charmless flavours will do nothing for the local cause, and it's unusual given Herdner's normal quality.

Unlike the whites reviewed last week, there aren’t any real bargain basement reds. For best buys, try Sogrape 1996 Dao Duque de Viseu ($12.90) with its dry, solid, dusty plum flavours. This Portuguese red makes great barbecue fare, especially with a steak. Another good match-up is the slightly pricier ($15.85) Marchesi de Frescobaldi/Robert Mondavi 1997 Danzante Sangiovese with its zesty, grapefruity, dried plum flavours.

As for the three red Burgundies, isn’t it refreshing that they are actually worth the prices being charged! My first choice is the stylish, ready-to-drink Daniel Rion 1997 Cote de Nuits-Villages Vaucrain ($28.50) with its inciting, gently smoky, beetroot and baked plum flavours and lingering finish. 

As for the best red of the release, my choice is Fess Parker 1997 Syrah from California ($29.95). The smell of cassis and vanilla stick leap out of the glass, while the rich, creamy, faintly smoky, blueberry pie flavours caress the palate. Unfortunately, both 1996 and '97 were shipped and only 56 cases were purchased. As of two days ago small quantities were still available at various LCBO stores, including the St. Lawrence Market location.

Finally, don’t miss two terrific well-priced summer rosés - the lively, strawberry-plum flavoured Domaines Jean Jean 1999 Gris de Gris Domaine Le Pive ($10.50) and the ever-tasty Miguel Torres 1999 De Casta Rosé ($10.25) which its bright, dry, cherry-ruby grapefruit flavours.