Vintage Assessments Home Page

Recent Articles

Archive of National Post Articles

Games you can play at the LCBO
Everything from Hide & Seek for a 
Chilean sweetie to best buy gins & bubblies
By Michael Vaughan • Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
National Post • Saturday, December 30^th 2000

Now with only two days to go, acquiring your treasures at the Liquor Control Board of Ontario will be no mean feat. Having just returned myself, I feel qualified to audition for television’s Survivor.

If fact, shopping at the LCBO (which might compare to the game Monopoly) is, indeed, almost like playing a game – Twenty Questions or perhaps even Hide & Seek leap to mind. I popped in recently to pick up the recently arrived edition of Errazuriz 1999 Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc (General List $11.75 for 375 ml).

I was first directed to the Chilean section where I found some fugitive Product of Canada blends but not my sweetie from Chile. I was then sent to the dessert wine section at the front of the store, which was filled with, you guessed it, Canadian dessert wines. Again, no luck. Finally, a harried clerk came to the rescue, “it’s down in the Sherry section at the back of the store.” And so there it was, hiding near the bottom shelf

Was it worth the search? Well yes, I think so. Certainly the 1999 is very tasty with lots of bright, sweet, honeyed, marmalade and candied tangerine rind flavours. It isn’t as opulent as the 1998, which had stunning richness and 2% more alcohol (13% vs 11%). Apparently some ‘98 is still available, but you’ll have to call around to find it. Unfortunately, it may all be for nothing because thanks to LCBO’s inexplicable product placement, sales have suffered and it’s scheduled for delisting!

As for my New Year wishes, I’m hoping that something magical will happen at the LCBO. Perhaps it’s time they gave something back to its customers and shareholders. The Société des alcool du Quebec, for instance, recently offered a free bottle of $20 port for every $100 purchase or a $40 champagne  (your choice of several brands of each) for every $200 spent. In fact, up until yesterday, all remaining Christmas gift packs at the SAQ were 40% off!

That’s right, and none of this is being subsidized by the agents, suppliers or producers. Better yet, if you need to know what’s in stock, you can get a detailed list off the SAQ website (www.saq.com). Did you know that the SAQ, for instance, has 160 Champagnes (this list is posted on my website)? At the LCBO, by contrast, even the staff don’t know what’s available!

Now it’s too late for the LCBO to bring back the terrific Bayview/York Mills store (one of the highest dollar volume per square foot stores in Canada) or the graceful Hazelton Lane outlet, which closes tomorrow (apparently to be replaced by a costly new Vintages store beside the existing Manulife outlet). Such planning mystifies me - dismantle one expensive store and then build another where one already exists. Fortunately, some windows for change still exist. How about bringing back the LCBO’s reasonably priced, sit-down, in-store wine tastings, which were decreed out of existence earlier this year?

For those who are wondering whether there is life after Dom Perignon, here are two Vintages festive bubbly recommendations, which won’t send you to the pawnbrokers. The first is a little sleeper from Spain, which was released on November 4^th at only $13.50. The de Muller Cava Brut Nature is nicely structured with lots of creamy mousse and ripe lemon flavours along with fine length. A great appetizer and food bubbly at a terrific price (lots still available). 

Better yet is the Schramsberg 1996 Blanc de Blancs ($29.95) from the Napa Valley, which is also made in the traditional méthode Champenoise, and has a whack of flavour that would put many genuine higher-priced sparklers to shame. The solid, lingering, goût anglaise, is a mix of buttered toast flavours that will tantalize the most sophisticated of palates.

For those into the spirits let me recommend a special kit for the perfect Martini. The Cuisipro bar set ($60) comes with a shot glass, cocktail shaker, stirrer and, best of all, drink spritzer. The latter sells for $15 and is essential for getting just the right amount of vermouth into your Martini. Check customer service at Browne & Co. (905-475-6104). In the Bloor Street West area, Jolanta Interiors has the spritzers at a 20% Boxing Day discount.  

As for the ultimate gin, I am of two minds. First, there’s my ultimate sipper Daresbury’s Q Quintessential Dry Gin (General List at $39.95) distilled five times with five botanicals at 45% alcohol. It’s as smooth as a baby’s bottom. Last year I decided to push the gin envelope by organizing a comparative blind martini tasting (featuring 13 brands of gin) all prepared by spirits maestro Jaymz Bee. Well when we regained consciousness, we were both shocked to discover that our favourite was Tanqueray Dry ($22.45) with its subtle hint of tangerine peel.

Coming up in the New Year:  Here are an insider’s tips for next Saturday’s Vintages release. Ironically, if you enjoy red Burgundy you can buy this one today! The Daniel Rion 1997 Côte des Nuits Villages (a survivor from last July’s release at $28.50) was inadvertently served up in our January 2001 lab preview - the 1998 is scheduled to come out next week.  This 1997 is really delicious and at its peak of drinkability - a great buy for impatient fans of Pinot Noir.

Meanwhile, the best white of the release is the seamless Landmark 1999 ‘Overlook’ Chardonnay. While it isn’t exactly cheap at $39.95, the key lime pie and crème brûlée flavours will carry you away on a wave of pleasure. Out-of-towners will be able to get their advance orders into the LCBO next Wednesday up until 11 am.

Other noteworthy  events include the 10^th annual Pacific Northwest Wine Fair on Wednesday, January 31^st at Toronto’s Roy Thomson Hall - call 416-410-4630. On its heels, we have the ultra-premium Napa Valley Vintners Tasting featuring 33 wineries, which returns, after a two-year hiatus on February 13^th at the King Edward Hotel. There is no general admission to this event at $65, so I suggest that you book immediately by calling1-800-588-cork.

Those wanting to ensure their participation to either of these sellout events can obtain invitations  from my Web site.  Also, professional sommeliers interested in attending either event should visit the sommeliers.ca website for complimentary pre-registration.