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Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist - Michael Vaughan

Vintages’ “Survivors” now on sale 

To download our table of products available at the 
Bin-End Sale and their release dates Click Here.

(Publishing Date: Saturday August 26, 2000  - Toronto Section)

There’s no pot of gold at the end of the rainbow for these Vintages “survivors.”  Getting rid of stock that doesn’t move is what this semi-annual Bin-End Sale is all about. It began last Monday and features118 products which have been shunned by consumers and have been sitting listlessly on the shelves since last year.

While the LCBO gives you a list of products on sale, it doesn’t provide a scrap of information as to the date these products appeared or what quantities remain. Knowing the release date enables fans to check out tasting reviews. To this end, I have posted a comprehensive listing of all relevant release dates on my website freely available to any browser.

With the exception of the Godet VSOP Cognac which was released in November 1998 and (reduced $19 to $49.65) everything was listed in 1999. Don’t bother looking for a review of the latter, it was never presented to the LCBO consultants or press for evaluation. As for the rest, I have tasted and reviewed all but 8 of the 118.

Nor does the LCBO reveal the remaining quantities. While it’s almost impossible to know what’s in the stores, the LCBO had a complete warehouse inventory as of July 15^th, which could have provided buyers with some guidance. As there are no inter-store transfers, perhaps the LCBO wanted to stave off any disappointment by keeping the buyers in the dark. With only one exception, everything recommended below was available at the Queens Quay store, but it’s best to call the individual store or LCBO info-line (800-668-5226) before heading out.

Most of the remaining inventory was shipped to the 9 Vintage stores and boutiques. Some quantities also go to the 101 Vintages early delivery corners. As for the remaining 39 regular stores, only remaining stock will be placed on sale – there will be no new shipments. Remaining warehouse inventory varied from a low of 85 bottles to a high of 4,380.

So how good are the survivors - are they great buys or junk? Well, shiver my timbers – some are great buys! Of the 8 spirits, the sweet Italian peach-flavoured Grappa Rustica Pesca ($8.90 from $14.90 for 200 ml) is simply delicious and perfect for the summer (430 bottles were in the warehouse).  Also worth buying is the Grappa di Arneis which is surprisingly rounded with gently sweet, spicy, grassy, fresh pears on the palate. A great buy reduced form $24.95 from $44.80 (730 bottles) was originally released last August.

White Port has never been an easy sell, but here is a chance to explore half a bottle a fairly decent price – at $6.95 from $9.65. Offley’s White Port Quinta de Cachucha has a medium golden amber colour and a honeyed, sweetish, fresh fig and baked apple taste. A fine pre-prandial when served chilled.

In a fruity vein is the zesty, sweet Chaucer’s Raspberry ($9.95 from $13.55) which hails from California. Released in May of last year, it comes with 10% alcohol and is likely to be a satisfying sipper, especially if served slightly chilled.

As for the table wines, there is an element of risk since 8-20 months have elapsed from the time I tasted them. A lot can happen to a wine during this time and it may not be flattering. Of the 11 Canadian whites on sale, for instance, all but 3 were so disappointing initially that I am loathe to recommend that you buy any of them. I only wish that they had hit the sales racks earlier this year or, in some instances, were never listed at all.

This isn’t true of the 8 California Chardonnays on this sale. They all rated at least two stars out of three when initially tasted. My first choice would be the top rated Wild Horse 1997 Central Coast Chardonnay ($19.95 from $27.95) which had great structure with a whack of creamy, ripe Bosc pear flavours and a lingering crème caramel finish. Although deep gold in colour it should have sufficient acidity and tannins from the barrel aging (also expressed in the flavours of lime) to still be alive and well today. Keep in mind that if it isn’t; you can return it to the LCBO for refund. Of the 2,688 bottles released - 1,037 were in the warehouse meaning that you shouldn’t have too much trouble tracking this one down.

Another decent Chardonnay which was already somewhat mature when evaluated in the same May 1999 release is the smoky-toasty Mark West 1997 Sonoma Chardonnay ($17.80 from $22.80). Of 4,800 bottles, 3,454 remain.

From the April 1999 Australia BRL Hardy special release, the 1996 Crofters Verdelho-Chardonnay ($13.55 from $19.55) should not be missed. It’s loaded with ripe, citrusy, creamy vanilla flavours. You’ll have to be quick because there were only 276 bottles.

All four whites from Alsace scored well and are worthy of trying. The two Burgundies were ok when released but are likely to be showing some age. One worth trying from the rather mixed bag of remaining Loire whites would be the dry, spicy, orange peel flavoured 1997 Quincy ($14.90 from $19.90).

As for the reds, my pick of the 10 from California would be Belvedere 1995 Cabernet sauvignon Sonoma Dry Creek Valley ($23.95 from $29.95 – 688 bottles). It’s rich, well structured, cassis, chocolaty flavours should be at their peak. From Oregon we have the very decent, red cherry flavoured Domaine Drouhin 1996 Oregon Pinot Noir ($39.90 from $51.10). More than half of the original 1800 bottles released in May 1999 languished on the shelves because of the original high price.

From Chile we have the bargain basement priced Chilean Valdivieso 1996 Stonelake Pinot Noir ($14.90 from $19.90 – 834 bottles) which had spicy, bright, somewhat cedary, ripe black cherry flavours when tasted in June 1999.

Of the 8 Bordeaux, all but the Mau 1997 Millennium Bordeaux showed quite nicely.  I have two special picks. The first is 1995Chateau Montviel ($39.95 from $54.85). This fairly full-bodied, well-structured Pomerol is a blend of 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Frank and 10% Cabernet should be just coming around and is a buy at the price (as only 285 bottles remain it will be hard to find). Another intense, chocolaty, lay-away red that should be starting to show well is 1996 Chateau d’Escurac ($19.90 from $24.95) Some 1,185 bottles (out of 3,600 purchased) of this LCBO direct purchase were in the warehouse last month.

Pass on the so-so Burgundy. From the Rhone, however, there are two sleepers. First the slightly smoky Les Domaniales 1994 Hermitage ‘Béaudefond’ ($29.70 from $29.70) which had hot, earthy, licorice-driven flavours. Of the 2,124 bottles released last June 1999, some 1,025 remain. An even better buy is the 1994 Cornas Les Nobles Rives, which was originally listed at $25.17 and is on sale for only $18.85. It’s peaty, dusty chocolate, sun dried tomato flavours literally jump out of the glass – great with game.

Of the 8 Italian reds my choice would be from the Friuli region. One hopes that then ready-to-drink Borge del Vassalli 1997 Isonzo del Fruili Cabernet Sauvignon ($9.60 from $12.60) is still holding its tasty, slightly grassy, dried cherry and cassis fruit flavours.

Be careful of some of the “bargains.” The sour green pickle flavours of the Hungarian Hilltop Neszmely NV Szekszard ‘Eagle Mountain’ Merlot ($5.90 from $8.90) will not be any better today than when released last summer (2,067 remain). And some things are just silly. With 1,495 bottles remaining, Vintages should have made a serious price reduction on the over-the-hill, thin, sweet, candied Buehler1998 Napa Valley White Zinfandel ($10.70 from $14.70). As they say, let the buyer beware.

Coming Up: Today from 5-9 pm the 6^th Annual Taste of Niagara Showcase at Queenston Heights Park on the Niagara Parkway  (look for the monument) showcasing 27 regional chefs and 28 wines - $55 entrance plus $3 per glass wine/beer.  To check for availability call (905) 357-6104.