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New Spirits with a New Look
From Great Fruit Eau-de-Vie to “Lion’s Milk”
© Michael Vaughan 2004
National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
Saturday, September 25, 2004

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I don’t know what it is, but when it comes to spirits, there are an incredible variety of bottles out there. It seems that the more unusual the bottle, the more expensive it becomes. Unfortunately, it has been pretty slim pickings around Vintages recently. Certainly nothing in Ontario compares to the SAQ’s stunning downtown Montreal showcase store, which features some 350+ specialty spirits. 

Thankfully, a couple of great new Fall fruit eau-de-vie has recently hit the LCBO shelves. At the top of the list is a colourless elixir from Germany, which only hit the store shelves last Saturday. Alfred Schladerer Black Forest Woods Himbeergeist (622423) at $49.95 can be traced back to 1844 when perfectly ripe wild raspberries were gathered in the Black Forest uplands and slowly macerated in virtually pure alcohol. The precious liquid was then carefully distilled in a traditional, hand-wrought, copper still and the alcohol level is adjusted down to 42% prior to bottling. 

The result is wonderful. An incredible essence of sweet ripe raspberry aromas captivates your senses. On the palate it is dry and yet gently viscous and with fine pointy edges ­ the delicious, intense, ripe raspberry essence flavours dancing on the tongue followed up by a lingering finish. It can be served after dinner in a small snifter. It may some sacrilegious, but I was tempted to spoon some on some rich vanilla ice cream. 

While it isn’t an eau-de-vie, raspberry lovers might try a tasty, sweet, Ontario fruit wine Downey’s Estate Winery Framboise (692608), which at $16.95 (500 ml) is less expensive with only 14.4% alcohol. Bright deep red in colour, it has a very sweet, candied, raspberry jam nose and rich, sweet, raspberry jam flavours with some good balancing lemony acidity. As an aside, I think that all bottles of undated fruit wines should have a legible bottling code on the back label enabling the purchaser to know the product’s exact age. 

If you have a passion for pear, there are two new fine eau-de-vie. First, there is a remarkable buy from last month Josef Hoermann Williamsbirne (974634) at $32.95 for 500 ml. This extremely fine effort from Bavaria has a clear pale straw colour and wonderful, gently sweet, juicy, ripe pear nose. On the palate it is very gently peppery (40% alcohol) and delicious with slightly sweet, concentrated, ripe pear purée flavours. Fortunately, Vintages ordered 120 cases of six. 

Somewhat more expensive is an excellent Austrian effort Distillerie Franz Bauer Williamsbirnen (620039) $54.95 for 500 ml. It has a spicy, sweet, warm, fresh Anjou pear purée nose and tangy, bright, fairly dry but balanced, ripe, slightly sweet, Anjou pear flavours with very good length. Only 20 cases of 6 of this ISD were released. 

Two interesting sweet Finnish liqueurs make for tasty after dinner sippers. Lapponia Lakka Cloudberry (356998) $18.95 (500 ml) has a light golden amber colour and a distinctive, sweet, spicy, slightly figgy, caramelized baked applesauce nose. It is sweet, creamy and honeyed with spicy, anise tinged, warm ripe red apple purée flavours. Its companion, Lapponia Puolukka Lingonberry (353748) $18.95 (500 ml) has a light red colour and an attractive, sweet, honeyed, ripe red cherry nose. On the palate it is fairly intense and mouth filling with sweet, dried red cherry flavours. If I had to pick, the latter would be my first choice.

Unfortunately, neither of the latter two products has been released due to labeling issues. It is a shame that Vintages head office has steadfastly refused to even reply to my repeated requests to be notified of upcoming availability/price changes. I have suggested that the internal monthly Vintages store updates be dispatched to writers. This would help us ensure that customers are kept abreast of key changes. Writing about current catalogue selections (which have been presented in LCBO lab preview tastings) that are not available creates serious angst among potential buyers. Surely the time has come for the well-paid Vintages managerial elite to make more of an effort to communicate to their captive audience.

Moving on, if you like sweet black licorice, try Turkey’s national drink Yeni Raki (538157) $24.95 (700 ml), which is produced by the Tekel Distillery in Tekirdag and is translated as “Lion’s Milk.” It is clear in colour with a spicy, pungent, very sweet, black licorice nose. On the palate it is solid, slightly peppery (43% alcohol) and mouth filling with intense, sweet black licorice flavours. 

Unfortunately, not all the newly listed spirits impressed. Two New Zealand efforts: a 10-year-old “single malt whisky” at $54.95 along with an odd, albeit flavourful, vodka at $39.95 would not be on my list of must buys. Click here to see some best buys from this month’s LCBO “limited time offers”.

2001-2002-2003-2004 Tasting Note Database
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Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2004
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
 (electronic or other wise) and or quotation.
Contact Michael Vaughan at
mbv@total.net