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Release © Michael Vaughan 2003 National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist Saturday, September 20, 2003 winefind.ca Tomorrow marks the fall equinox and cooler weather is on its
way. Fortunately, September’s Vintages release offers lots of
opportunities to warm things up. Let me start off with that perfect
sweetie for sipping in front of a roaring fireplace. At $54.95 this vintage Port isn’t exactly cheap, but
it’s still a bargain. The 2000 vintage was exceptional ironically
because poor cool weather during the flowering significantly reduced
yields, while the hot dry summer concentrated the remaining fruit. What is
particularly unique for this Port is that it is the first joint venture
effort by the firm of José Maria
da Fonseca and Chistiano van Zeller.
It combines the fruit from two areas of the Douro – power and
concentration from vineyards in the tiny Rio Torto valley with the
elegance of those in the Rio Pinhao valley. The
results are quite spectacular. José
Maria da Fonseca & van Zeller 2000 Vintage Port 2000
(638924) at $54.95 is surprisingly drinkable. I have tasted it twice after
a few hours decanting and was enchanted. It has a very deep intense purple
colour and attractive, plumy, buckwheat honey nose with spicy, red currant
purée notes. On the palate it is fairly rich and yet very harmonious with
slightly chocolaty, sweetish, ripe plum purée flavours. Made in the classic tradition, the grapes were foot trodden
in granite stone lagares and aged in mature wood vats until bottled in
October 2002. Many may be shocked that this infant vintage Port with its
19.7% alcohol is showing surprisingly well. While you can lay it away for
another five years, why not buy two bottles one for today and the other
for a couple of years down the road. Keep in that there is no need to
drink it all in one sitting. If you downsize the decanted port into a
smaller, tightly closed container, it will keep for quite some time,
especially if kept cool. If you are searching for a slightly less expensive sweetie, Sandeman ‘Character’ Medium Dry Amontillado (56136)
at a mere $14.90 should delight. Although not as rich and less sweet than
a Vintage Port, this effort is sweeter and certainly superior to all seven
Amontillados that have graced Vintages shelves since January 2001. This
Sherry has been slowly aged in small casks, which transforms the pale
colour into medium gold amber and permits the complex caramelized flavours
to evolve. A small amount of rich sweet Pedro Ximenez is blended in adding
some additional sweetness. The nose is rich and spicy with sweet caramel notes. The
well-balanced, gently sweet, honeyed, crème brûlée flavours impress,
along with the fine, lingering finish. While this Amontillado can be
served cool with food, or chilled, perhaps on ice, as an aperitif. It is
also sweet enough to be enjoyed by itself at room temperature, after
dinner. Moving on to today’s reds, I discovered a surprisingly
accessible Bordeaux, which flirts with the “collector” designation. 1999
Château La Croix du Casse (730085) at $69.95 is quite admirable
with a pleasant, spicy, plummy, ripe red cherry nose followed up by well
structured, tangy, ripe plum flavours and a hint of red licorice. This is
a Pommerol with pedigree. Only four years old, it seems to be at its peak.
For many years the tiny 9 ha property was owned by Jean-Michel Arcaute. Planted 80% to Merlot and 20% to
Cabernet Franc, Arcaute aged the wine for 24 months in barriques (50% new)
and used neither fining nor filtering. Tragically, in 2001 just after
Vinexpo, Jean-Michel Arcaute died in a boating accident. I got a certain déjà vu about this vineyard and went to www.winefind.ca
to do a Vintages search under the chateau name. I am surprised by the
results. I discover that there are a few remnant bottles of the hefty 1998 Château La Croix du
Casse (946947) at $109.00 from Ginestet (imported by Atlas Wine
Merchants a division of Vincor) from the current 2003 Spring/Summer
Classics Catalogue (see page 17). I also uncover another 59 bottles of
exactly the same wine, this time from Aude (imported by MIH Selections) at
only $79.95 (902247). These were released at end of February 2002 and
obviously were acquired by the Vintages at a lower price. Those who track
these things would know that the first edition this 1998 (also from Aude)
actually appeared in the April 1, 2001 in the Vintages Bordeaux Futures
Release at $56.00 (974642). Who said it would be easy? If
you are looking for something more affordable, check out the juicy Heritage Road 2001 Shiraz Reserve
(905968) at $19.90. Sourced exclusively from the old Mundulla vineyard in
the Limestone Coast region of South Australia, the nose exudes spicy ripe
black raspberry purée. The taste of this ready-to-drink crowd pleaser is
slightly sweet and chocolaty with ripe plums, Black Muscat and raspberry
fruit flavours along with a lingering cedary finish. You
will have to pay a little more for the best Shiraz of the release. This is
the first time I have tasted Ingleburne 1999 ‘Penny’s
Hill’ Shiraz
(901066)
$31.95 and I was impressed by its chocolaty, smoky, smoldering fire nose
and very well structured, creamy, faintly sweetish, ripe plummy-prune
flavours. It weighs in with 14.5% alcohol and comes from South
Australia’s McLaren Vale. Bargain
hunters may want to pick up a few bottles of the rather cedary Raimat 2000 Abadia
(935460) at $13.95. Originating in Spain’s Costers del Segre, this blend
of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 15% Tempranillo spent 18 months
in American oak. It is solid and medium-full bodied with tangy, dried ripe
plum flavours lots of cedar on the lingering finish.
Check
out our winefind.ca tasting notes database Our tasting note database goes back to January 1, 2001 and covers every Vintages release product for the past 31 months. There are approximately 5,000 notes in the database data. Just enter the name of the product, supplier name or CSPC number. Or you can search by type of wine, country of origin, even wine agent! Nothing could be easier. When you get your search results (starting with the most recent release), click on the item name and you will instantaneously connected to the FBTI Vintage Assessments database. You will see our tasting note along with the name of the agent. You can get information on the agent by clicking on the agent’s name. Also, you can check LCBO store inventory by clicking on Check LCBO Availability. It will automatically take you to the item you want to search. To use our winefind.ca Tasting Notes Database: click here Subscribe to Vintage Assessments Today • Click Here
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