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Boning up on the best of bubblies © Michael Vaughan 2003 National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist Saturday, September 14, 2002
www.winefind.ca There are so
many wine events happening, one is tempted to throw in the wine glass.
Next Wednesday, September 18th, at 5 pm to be precise, we
have the fax/mail deadline for ordering from September’s Classics
Catalogue. Judging by last Monday’s sold-out preview tasting turnout,
some of the better buys might be running low by the time you read this,
as “hard” ordering at the preview was permitted. Before
suggesting any best buys, I want to report a number of changes at
Classics. First, there was the abrupt July departure of Lloyd Evans, the
LCBO’s long-time wine expert in residence and official shepherd to the
Classics since its inception. Secondly, there will now be two fall
releases – this one and the “Holiday 2002” edition. If you wish to
plan ahead, you can book your preview tasting ticket for October
30th (same time, same
place) for $95 by calling 1-800-266-4764. Also sorely
missed are the little triangles,
which have been featured in every Classics catalogue, except in the
current one. These denoted a previously released product and enabled
readers to tell what was new - an extremely helpful tool for repeat
buyers. This was done so as not to hinder sales of previously featured
products. I am happy to report, however, that after lodging my concern
with Vintages, I have been informed that they will be coming back.
An example
of this is the Champagne section where 4 entries are listed. When I
checked with the previous Spring/Summer catalogue, I discovered that
there is only one new selection, Roederer
Cristal Rosé 1995 at
$329. Unfortunately, I have not tasted it. We are informed by the LCBO
that a mere 20,000 bottles were made. Now let’s see, in LCBO loonie
dollars that’s worth $6.6 million – not bad at all! The
best Champagne buy is Laurent-Perrier
Ultra Brut Champagne Cuvée Sans Dosage
at only $49. Unfortunately, my order placed last May from the
Spring/Summer Classics at a bargain basement $32 was turned down. I was
told that it was “no longer available.” In fact, what happened was
that the Classics published $32 price was based on a FOB case price of
only six, not twelve, bottles (as the LCBO had assumed). Those
wishing to bone up on the best of bubblies are advised to pick up a copy
of the highly recommended Tom
Stevenson’s Champagne & Sparkling Wine Guide
(2002 4th edition). I had an extremely difficult time trying to track this
quintessential soft cover down, being unable to find a single copy in
Toronto. It came out in February of this year, originally by a UK
publisher and is now produced by the Wine
Appreciation Guild in California. After I started harassing the
Canadian distributor three months ago, it has finally shown up at the Cookbook
Store at $24.50
(416-920-2665) The latter is now the pre-discount retail price in
Canada, so ignore the $19.95 price printed on the back jacket which was
obviously based on a stronger dollar. It is also worth mentioning that
Barnes & Noble is charging $19.96 US for it on their website! This
extremely useful 240-page guide provides you with comprehensive,
recently-updated tasting notes by Stevenson, who is one of the best,
independent, sparkling wine authorities in the world. His previous book Christie’s
World Encyclopedia of Champagne & Sparkling
is another terrific,
albeit slightly out of date volume (published in 2001 and based on notes
prepared in 2000), is currently on sale on the Chapters/Indigo website
at only $56.66 (regular $80.95). In fact, all books over $30 on the
Chapters/Indigo website are now reduced by 30%! (For some reason they
incorrectly stated that this book was published in June 2002 – it
wasn’t and that error has now been corrected.) To order this book from
Chapters/Indigo click
here Getting
back to some best buys from the upcoming Classics. I was knocked out by
one of the finest Pinot Noirs to come out of California - Sanford
1999 Pinot Noir Barrel Select La Rinconada
with extremely seductive, sandalwood-tinged, supple, ripe black cherry
purée flavours. This is the first single vineyard to be released by
Sanford (Santa Barbara County) and it is a definite winner. It is
unfiltered and made from Burgundian 667 and 777 clones. Despite the high
14% alcohol, it is beautifully balanced by high 7.1gpl total acidity.
This gold medal winner received my highest 3 star rating! There is no
question that at $69, it may not be for everyone (although it sells for
$50 US at the winery). Nevertheless, this is one of those unique bottles
that is actually worth the price being charged. I
am not sure the same is true of Penfolds
1997 Grange, which
fetches $250. I have never tasted a more forward, softer, more
accessible Grange in my life. The nose is very attractive with very
toasty, slightly spicy, coconut cream pie notes. It may, of course, be
going through one of those cycles where it closes up, but both bottles
sampled certainly seemed ready to drink.
Of
the many Ontario Classic red entries, some of which seemed a bit uneven,
I was impressed with both Thirty
Bench 1999 Benchmark Reserve
reds
at $45. The 1999
Reserve Blend
was
complex, earthy and chocolaty, while the very tasty 1999
Cabernet Franc
had
tangy, well-structured, plumy, rhubarb crumble flavours. The Henry
of Pelham 1998 Cabernet/Merlot Speck Family Reserve
($50)
was very refined, leaning in a Bordelaise direction with chocolate, lead
pencil and ripe plums. More reviews will be appearing in the near
future.
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2001-2002-2003 Tasting Note Database Our tasting note database from December 3 1, 2000 to November 2003, covers every Vintages release product for the past 34 months. There are more than 5,000 notes in the database data. Just enter the name of the product, supplier name or CSPC number. Or you can search by type of wine, country of origin, even wine agent! Nothing could be easier. Also you can get information on the agent by clicking on the agent’s name, as well as current LCBO store inventory by clicking on "Check LCBO Availability", which will automatically tell you the number of bottles at LCBO as of last night. To use our winefind.ca Tasting Notes Database: click here Subscribe to Vintage Assessments Today • Click Here
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