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Two
Companions for Thanksgiving
A bit dry, but still palatable!
©
Michael Vaughan 2006
National Post
Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
Saturday,
October 7, 2006
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For me, Thanksgiving is a time of reflection, rejoicing in what we
receive and sharing what we have with others. This year I have two new
companions. No they don't have feathers, nor do they eat turkey. I am
referring of course to the two just-released "companions" from
Oxford: The
Oxford Companion to Wine (third edition) edited
by Jancis Robinson and The
Oxford Companion to Food (second edition) edited by
Tom Jaine, who took over from Alan Davidson who died in 2003.
These two books represent a great harvest of wine and food knowledge and together are an indispensable addition to one's library. Starting with the hefty, heavy wine companion, you will find the answer to almost everything here in a somewhat dry, concise manner. There is no apparent room for humour in the 800+ pages, where detail-after-detail is methodically organized from A to Z. If you are looking for wine recommendations, there aren't any. Unfortunately, the 70+ maps are quite appalling. Nevertheless, this desperately needed update of the 1999 edition is as good as it gets. It is available on the Chapters-Indigo website for $47.03 vs. the $75 list price.
Moving to the food companion, thankfully the world hasn't changed quite as much. It has only 72 new entries (vs. more than 400 in wine). Laid out in a similar manner as wine, it too provides a huge amount of information. This is not the book for you if you are looking for recipes or expect engaging global food migration maps. It too is available on the Chapters-Indigo website for the same price. They are both a bit dry, but still palatable.
Before moving on, lest me say that these are more
"encyclopedic" in nature. If you are looking for a real
"companion" with opinions and recommendations, something that is
fun to pick up and enjoyable to explore, then I would strongly suggest the
beautifully illustrated, well-documented, 664-page opus New
Sotheby's Wine Encyclopedia 4th Edition (2005)
by one of the world's most authoritative experts, Tom Stevenson. For the
wine literati or even the beginner, this is a great way of expanding your
vinous horizons. Instead of $65, it is a modest $40.76 on the
Chapters-Indigo website.
Vintages Big Bird Choices: Whites
Moving on the to task at hand, something that will go well with the big bird. I'm looking at the current Vintages catalogue, which provides us with Your Thanksgiving Wine List. It features 8 "tried and true" suggestions, plus another 8 "unconventional" wines. There is a checklist of four items (from root vegetable to spicy stuffing) showing what goes with what. Ironically, the only item left off the list is the turkey itself (which might have been broken up into mild white and more flavourful dark). It is strange that of the 16 wines, only 5 of those listed will go with everything.
It seems that everybody has an idea of what goes with the big bird. While some of the selections are quite ok, for my taste, others are less likely to work. I find that whites are generally work better than reds, mostly because they usually have less tannin and, therefore, are less likely to be bitter. You don't want big, austere wines loaded with oak. The fruity wines, which have some crisp acidity work best.
Here
are two California whites from the current Vintages release that will do
the trick. Kendall-Jackson
2005 Sauvignon Blanc 'Vintner's Reserve'
(459552) at $17.95 has ripe, fairly zesty, fruit-driven melon-peach
flavours without any tart grassy notes. Even better is Ironstone
2005 Viognier (946665) at $15.95, which has an
intense, spicy, ripe peach purée nose. It's dry and tangy with spicy,
peachy, ripe lemon-melon flavours with a lingering finish. Delicious and
ready to enjoy.
If sweet peach is what you are after, check out Baron Knyphausen 2004 Riesling Kabinett Erbacher Steinmorgen (7658) at $18.95 from Germany's Rheingau. It is definitely for someone with a sweet tooth with its honeyed, bright, ripe apple purée flavours. If you are able to pronounce the name of this flawlessly, you will qualify for a special prize.
More concentrated, complex and very spicy is a classic from Alsace - Zind Humbrecht 2004 Gewurztraminer (686220) at $25.95. Beware, this is a big wine with 14.5% alcohol. It is well structured, dry but rounded with intense, lingering, ripe, melon-lychee flavours.
Reds
Once
again the fruit forward reds from California take centre stage. Two very
well made Pinot Noir, one from Greg
Norman in Santa Barbara (not Santa "Barbera"
- that's a new blend) at $24.95 (687988) and the other from Chateau
St. Jean in Sonoma at $25.95 (687970), both hit
the spot. If I had to choose, it would be the latter by a hair.
The best buy turkey-friendly red comes from the Mendoza region of Argentina. Check out the super juicy Septima 2005 Malbec (686113) at $13.95. It is surprisingly solid (14% alcohol) with intense black cherry flavours and a vanilla stick finish.
Brut Rosé
There
is nothing like a classy sparkling rosé and Graham
Beck 2004 Brut Rosé (4085) at $21.95 is a very
tasty blend of 82% Pinot Noir and 18% Chardonnay. has a fairly deep
reddish pink colour. Spicy, bright, ripe, plummy, red cherry nose. Dry,
well balanced and effervescent with subtle ripe plum and juicy cherry
flavours. Perfect throughout the meal.
Pick of the Week
For
those of you with no Vintages at hand, let me repeat my recommendation,
dollar for dollar, for the best rosé at the LCBO: Henry
of Pelham 2005 VQA Dry Rosé (613471) at $11.95.
This delicious blend has refreshing, plummy, raspberry fruit flavours that
goes perfectly with, turkey, ham, you name it!
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