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Malt
Mania
©
Michael Vaughan 2006
National Post
Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
Saturday,
October 14, 2006
LIVE
WINE LINK
www.winefind.ca
(CLICK ON THE NAME - All
listings are automatically linked to the LCBO database)
If there is a product that interests you,
just click on the name below and you will instantaneously connected with
the LCBO database. The product will appear in blue and all you have to do
is click on the name again
and then the next screen will provide details along with the store search.
Just click on store search.
The number of bottles in each store is updated nightly. Call
the store first to see if stock still remains (each store phone number is
listed).
Scotch fans have been biting at the grip as Whisky Live Toronto 2006 swings into action today at the Direct Energy Centre, Exhibition Place (100 Princes Blvd) from 4:00 to 9:00 pm - tickets at $75 per person, sampling $2 each. There are a number of key seminars that are well worth attending. Sadly we will miss the appearance of whisky expert Michael Jackson (author of the Malt Whisky Companion) who cancelled due to illness. To check out today's activities click here
It is no irony that Whisky Live Toronto makes its Toronto debut on the same day as the Vintages "Allure of Scotch Whisky" release. Apparently, the LCBO refused to support the original all-Canadian Spirit of Toronto whisky show that normally took place at this time of year. Instead, the LCBO endorsed this new off-shore upstart. As a result Spirit of Toronto, which was going to celebrate its third edition, will not happen this year.
While I love certain whiskies, there is only one thing worse than a wine snob; that's the whisky snob for whom only a specific single malt from one distillery will do. The argument states that single malts are better because they come from unique areas endowed with a mystical purity and are perfect reflections of the terrior. While that theory does hold some water, the concept of blending from various regions where the sum is greater than the parts also has validity. This gives rise to one of the whisky debates: to blend or not to blend.
And it doesn't end there. Some producers suggest that their unique style comes from the local water, which is added by the distillery to the whisky to bring the high cask alcohol level down to 40%. Let me say categorically that this suggestion is hogwash. It has been demonstrated that the use of local water at the distillery has virtually no impact on the flavour of the whisky.
The next debate is: to water or not to water. I am told by experts that adding water is a flavour liberator (this excludes tap water, which is loaded with chlorine). And yet, for my taste, I like Scotch neat meaning no ice, no water - absolutely nothing and at room temperature. Of course, there are exceptions. Depending on my mood, sometimes I want Scotch on the rocks. That's especially true with some high alcohol "cask strength" whiskies, which can be extremely harsh with abrasive, peppery, flavours.
Last
but not least, is the glass. Why shell out $200 a bottle and serve it in a
glass that robs you of your enjoyment? While my assessments are based on
the ISO wine tasting glass, other dedicated glasses highlight different
aspects. One of the most attractive stems is made by Canada's NovaScotian
Crystal, a unique glassworks located on the Halifax waterfront.
It produces hand-cut-crystal Scotch glasses specifically designed with a
wide bowl to bring out the bouquet and a narrow neck to channel it to the
nose. The flared lip directs the precious liquid to just the right place
on the tongue. These stems sell for $82 each ($410 for six). They are only
available directly from the factory via the website - see www.novascotiancrystal.com
Other thinner lipped, less expensive glasses exist. At Toronto's Wine Establishment, for instance, you will find several. First, there are two virtually identical editions of the Single Malt Whisky glass - Vinum from Riedel at $26.95 (who also offers a $69.95 edition) and another from Bohemia at only $12.95. Then there is the Speigelau Soiree Whisky Tumbler (which is also owned by Riedel) at $8.95. The Wine Establishment currently has them in pairs at only $11.95.
Getting
down to the most important task at hand, which whiskies to buy. With so
many different styles available, your personal favourite from today's
release of 14 will be a function of your own palate. For fans of a lighter
style, the elegant Arran
Malt 10 Years Old (5090) at $59.95 will be a
fine starting point. Those preferring a smokier, more robust style,
shouldn't miss the Bowmore
17 Years Old (368209) from Islay at $85.95,
which is not only a best buy, but also much tastier than the more
expensive 16 Year Old 1989 edition at $127.95.
One
of my perennial favourites is the delicious, honeyed, harmonious Highland
Park 18 Years Old (500231) at $117.95 from the
Orkney Islands, the world's most northerly whisky distillery. Look for
honeyed, gently smoky, ripe plum flavours. Only the blended Johnnie
Walker Blue Label (308155) at $229.95 offers a
smoother, gentler ride, albeit at a significantly higher price.
Getting
down to my sole release highlight is the stunning, sublime, smoky Ardberg
Uigeadail Islay Single Malt (660860) at $124.95.
Light golden amber in colour, the intense, slightly medicinal, peat
envelops your nose. It is very well structured and surprisingly rounded
for 54.2% alcohol with spicy, peaty, warm caramel-plum flavours. The smoky
finish that goes on and on and on.
There
are many more fine whiskies out there. National Post readers can find the
best on my updated whisky database (with over 200 Vintages Scotch release
tasting notes) by using the "npreader" password - to see click
here Now, also on the website, are the current tasting
notes of our newest contributor Patricia Noonan, a teacher, consultant and
expert who is extremely well versed in the world of spirits. To Patricia's
notes click
here
Pick of the Week
Of
all the wines being released today, I have one release highlight from the
Côtes de Bergerac in Southwest France 2002
Château Le Raz Cuvée Grand Chêne (718932) at
$17.95. Move over Bordeaux, this extremely classy blend of 85% Merlot and
15% Cabernet Sauvignon has a wonderful, maturing, plummy-cassis nose. Dry
and well structured, the ripe plum, red pepper and mocha flavours are
complemented with a lingering, toasty finish and ripe supple tannins.
Sheer perfection with a rare rib steak.
2001-2002-2003-2004-2005-2006
Tasting Note Database
Our
tasting note database from December 31, 2000 to September 2006, covers every
Vintages release product for the past 69 months. There are more than 13,000 notes in the database data. Just enter the name of the product,
supplier name or CSPC number. Or you can search by type of wine, country
of origin, even wine agent! Nothing could be easier. Also you can get information on the agent by clicking on the
agent’s name, as well as current LCBO store inventory by clicking on
"Check
LCBO Availability", which will automatically tell you the
number of bottles at LCBO as of last night.
To
use our Tasting
Notes Database: click
here
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2006
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Contact Michael Vaughan at
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