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If you want to buy a wine, just click on the wine name below and you will instantaneously connected with the LCBO database. The wine name will appear in blue and all you have to do is click on the name again and then the next screen will provide details along with the store search. Just click on the search. The number of bottles in each store is updated nightly. You should call the store first to see if stock still remains (each store phone number is provided).

By Thanksgiving most apples have reached their pinnacle and patiently waiting to be devoured. Of course, there is more than one way to get your apple a day. I am sitting with world ambassador Vincent Boulard whose family founded Calvados Boulard five generations ago in the north-west French region of Normandy. He insists that I try his Boulard Calvados Pays d’Auge Grand Solage (LCBO general list 296228 at $42.55) on crushed ice.

It’s not my normal preprandial. I sniff it with an air of suspicion. It’s got a great nose - fresh ripe red apples and a hint of pear! Although there is no sugar in this 40% spirit, it seems slightly sweet from its intense natural apple flavours. It’s well balanced and surprisingly seductive. “What better way to enjoy a bracingly cool fall day,” says Vincent with a twinkle in his eye.

Whether it’s mixed with ginger ale or tonic, I feel hooked like a flounder. Mr. Boulard goes on to add that “there is Calvados and then there is Calvados Pays d’Auge!” French regulations for the later were established in 1942 and are extremely tight. The cider must be made from specific apples only grown in the delineated Pays d’Auge orchards. It must then be double distilled in a classic pot still. All flavourings and the addition of neutral grain spirit are prohibited. Like Cognac, a great Calvados will usually be blend of fine spirits aged in oak barrels for many years. Only the date of the youngest spirit may be mentioned on the label. I am surprised that Calvados Pays d’Auge is subject to even more stringent aging regulations than Cognac.

The results speak for themselves. “It starts with the selection of apples - did you know that there are some 800 varieties of apples?” asks Boulard. I am perplexed. “Good grief,” I think - “I know the names of half a dozen or so, but none are grown for Calvados production.” Boulard’s secret blend consists of some 120 varieties from four major apple families, which are harvested from some 35,000 company-owned trees.

I start getting misty eyed as he reels off details on the role of each type of apple – it’s more information that I can digest. I am impressed, however, that it takes 12 kilos of apples or 10.5 litres of cider, to produce a single bottle of Calvados. “Well, there’s my ten apples today!” I think to myself.

Tracking down the best of Boulard isn’t easy. The LCBO has been extremely stingy with its listings meaning that customers have to contact the Canadian agent Peter Mielzynski (905-820-4117). I am shocked to discover that there are five levels above the Grand Solage. The XO ($91.30), which carries a minimum 6-year age requirement, actually gets 8 years at Boulard. The Très Grande Fine Hor’s d’Age ($92.00), averages at 15-years and has 43% alcohol Then there is the wonderful Founder’s Reserve ($174.90), which is a blend of 12 to 20-year-old, comes in a decanter and should be served in a snifter. Finally, there is Carafe 21 Ans d’Age ($212.00) a 21 to 25+ year old casks and Millésimé ($194.00), which are made from single barrels of vintage-dated Calvados.

If you happen to be planning to pick up a bottle of Boulard this weekend, you might want to try a robust apple Calvados stuffing for your turkey. The farce de dinde aux pommes et au Calvados recipe is posted on my website along with a few drink ideas.

Moving on, one reader wished to know if Canada’s largest selling red, Wolf Blass Yellow Label Cabernet Sauvignon would go well with turkey. I think that you might find it to be excessively oaky. A much better match would be Beringer 2001 Zinfandel (567453), which has enough harmonious, fresh, cranberry-cassis tinged, juicy, ripe, cherry flavours to carry my carcass to poultry heaven. It was released in last Saturday’s Vintages release at $15.50. Look for the lot number 0523314L1, which appears on the back label.

If you are eschewing turkey, opting for a rib steak instead, another tremendous October Vintages best buy is the complex, ripe and juicy Castellani 1999 ‘I Castei’ Valpolicella Classico Ripasso (739987) at $23.65. The nose is very intense, complex and cedary with wonderful ripe plum purée and lifted mellow, earthy-balsamic notes. On the palate you will a find delicious, juicy plum and prune purée flavours followed up by a lingering finish. Although at its peak, it is much tastier than some Italian reds costing twice the price!

Last but not least, telephone ordering for the Autumn 2003 Classics commences at 9 am on Tuesday, October 21^st. Of the 406 items, 37 are repeats. I have tasted some four-dozen items and, unfortunately, was not overly impressed by many. Nevertheless, there are a few very fine buys. One of my favourites is Cline 2000 Syrah Los Carneros Vineyard (955435) a steal at $29. It has a very deep intense purple colour and extremely appealing, spicy, cedary, juicy ripe black cherry nose. On the palate it is rich, extracty and mouthfilling with juicy ripe black cherry fruit and lots of cedary notes on the lingering finish. Some 600 bottles were acquired by Vintages.

Check out our winefind.ca tasting notes database

Our tasting note database goes back to January 1, 2001 and covers every Vintages release product for the past 31 months. There are approximately 5,000 notes in the database data. Just enter the name of the product, supplier name or CSPC number. Or you can search by type of wine, country of origin, even wine agent! Nothing could be easier. When you get your search results (starting with the most recent release), click on the item name and you will instantaneously connected to the FBTI Vintage Assessments database. You will see our tasting note along with the name of the agent. You can get information on the agent by clicking on the agent’s name. Also, you can check LCBO store inventory by clicking on Check LCBO Availability. It will automatically take you to the item you want to search.

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Check out the
October 2003 InStore Discovery

Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2004
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Contact Michael Vaughan at
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