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A
Class Act
Surviving Wine-Savvy Dinner Guests
©
Michael Vaughan 2006
National Post
Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
Saturday,
November 4, 2006
LIVE
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A friend of mine called me up in a bit of flap. It seems that his wine-savvy, parents-in-law are visiting and he doesn't know what to do. Obviously a bottle of sweet, jammy, Yellow Tail isn't going to make the cut. People forget that popularity and quality rarely go hand-in-hand. Another key problem is that the in-laws love the big labels, which cost loads of money. Sadly, my friend has limited means.
Thankfully, there are lots of great values out there, some rivaling those fancy, high-priced labels. Last year, for instance, I uncovered a great Chardonnay from Argentina for under $11 that was as good, if not better, than many white Burgundies in the $40+ range. The only dilemma is that some well-known, inexpensive, labels hurt the perceived quality of what is being served.
To overcome this handicap, I suggested some excellent Vintages releases from relatively unknown producers. I would have added consignment wines, which are privately imported by wine agents, to the list. Unfortunately, LCBO regulations force individuals to buy such items "by the case only" making this option financially impossible. It is just another grotesque, discriminatory rule.
Before
divulging my recommendations, I suggested that my friend relax their
guests by serving a classic gin martini. True connoisseurs know the
difference between brands of gin. Blind taste tests demonstrate that Plymouth
English Gin (540682) at $25.35 (with 41.2%
alcohol) is one of the best in the market. At three recent tastings, for
instance, it outperformed the pricier Bombay Sapphire. Keep it simple:
cold, almost neat (just a faint hint of dry vermouth only on request),
highlighted by a simple thread of organic lemon zest.
Another suggestion would have been to try a bone-dry, chilled, glass of Tio Pepe Fino Sherry, but as the LCBO delisted it earlier this year, it isn't an option. Lustau also makes great fino, but unfortunately their Ontario agent hasn't been proactive in getting their ISD listings assessed.
While
top "grand marque" Champagne is extremely expensive, let me kick
off with a great Champagne that was released in Vintages three weeks ago.
There are ample quantities of Gardet
Cuvée Saint Flavy Brut Champagne (924654) at
only $37.95. Be forewarned, those waiting for Cartier Premier Cru Brut
($39.95), which comes out next Saturday, might stock up on Gardet first.
It is dry and harmonious with very faintly toasty, bright, ripe
lemon-melon flavours, excellent mid-palate and very good length.
Moving on to the white wine side of the meal, many terrific buys are
still lurking on the shelves. Looking for an excellent Sauvignon Blanc?
Make a beeline to Fournier
Père et Fils 2004 Sancerre Les Maulins Bâles
(651091) at $22.95. While New Zealand has lots to offer, it is exciting to
find a real French classic from the Loire's Sancerre region. Dry, bright
and medium bodied, the ripe lemon-melon flavours linger perfectly on the
finish. It goes perfectly with oysters and fresh fish dishes.
If
one is looking for a classy Chardonnay, don't miss Maison
Champy 2004 Pernand-Vergelesses (8151) at
$28.95, which is well-structured and harmonious with fairly toasty,
intense, key lime pie flavours. The commune of Pernand-Vergelesses is
located in Burgundy's Côte de Beaune, just a stone's throw from the
renowned Corton-Charlemagne. This ready-to-drink white calls for fuller-flavoured
dishes, especially white meats and/or poultry. Vintages also carries
half-bottles at $15.95 (8375), which have a shorter shelf life than the
regular 750 ml bottles.
Moving on to reds, one tends to gloss over Gamay, which can produce delicious wines perfect for everyday French dishes such as steak-frites or coq au vin. Sadly, many Beaujolais at the LCBO are bereft of fruit. This cause has not been helped by disappointing Mommessin Vintages releases.
Thankfully,
there is now a destination "Beaujolais" in town: the well-priced
Selection Patrick Clerget's Domaine
Guy Voulet 2005 Julienas (6601) at $16.95.
Medium bodied and well-balanced with gently juicy ripe plum and dried
cherry flavours, it is one of the best new releases in years.
Of course, many will be unfamiliar with the ten high quality designated communes (cru) found within the Beaujolais region. Wines coming from each sub-regions (such as Julienas) are not allowed to indicate that they also come from Beaujolais. You might also be curious to discover that red Burgundy (Bourgogne Rouge), which is usually made from Pinot Noir, can also be made from Gamay grown in any of these regions.
If
serving beef, here is a classic Bordeaux that will hit the spot and not
break the bank. 2004
Château de Fonbel (15800) at $26.95 is an
extremely youthful Grand Cru St-Émilion that calls for two years of
additional aging (although it can be enjoyed today if decanted several
hours in advance). This blend Merlot and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon has an
extremely deep intense purple colour with extracty, plummy, slightly
herbal, green olive-sandalwood flavours.
Fans
of Pinot Noir will enjoy Frédéric
Magnien 2003 Fixin Crais de Chêne (4846) at
$33.95 from September 16th Vintages release. Fixin is an important but
lesser known commune in Burgundy's Côte de Nuits region adjoining
Gevrey-Chambertin. This tasty, ready-to-enjoy, effort shows bright,
harmonious, plummy, ripe red cherry flavours with a lingering finish. A
great match for lamb, it too is a relative bargain.
Pick of the Week
Mas
Bressades 2004 Cabernet/Syrah 2004 (Vintages
712174) at $16.95 is a big, robust, well-priced Rhone blend, which weighs
in with 14.5% alcohol. Look for well-structured, ripe plum and red pepper
flavours with a lingering mocha finish - a great match a steak. It can be
laid away for a year or two or decanted for current drinking.
2001-2002-2003-2004-2005-2006
Tasting Note Database
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tasting note database from December 31, 2000 to September 2006, covers every
Vintages release product for the past 69 months. There are more than 13,000 notes in the database data. Just enter the name of the product,
supplier name or CSPC number. Or you can search by type of wine, country
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Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada
2006
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Contact Michael Vaughan at
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