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Getting
Into the Holiday Spirits
Too Few of the Finest
©
Michael Vaughan 2006
National Post
Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
Saturday,
November 25, 2006
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The first half of today's Vintages Release Catalogue features "A
Few of our Finest" obviously aimed at well-heeled
Christmas shoppers. It features a $469.95 tequila, a $369.95 Scotch and a
Cognac priced at $2,099.00 (the latter being currently costing $1,486.94
in Nova Scotia). Upon tasting, it soon became evident that many of the
items, although good, are not exquisite. No one can say that the Vintages
claim "a few of our finest" is an understatement. Fact
is, it is too few meaning one has to do some serious searching
elsewhere, usually in the Classics Catalogue.
If only it was that easy. Sadly, Vintages is no longer interested in having their customers (or wine writers) taste their Classics. Such tastings used to be held in at least twice a year in various cities. It enabled fans to preview and order wines they enjoyed. Instead of spreading the wealth, Vintages now organizes ritzy, little, winemaker tastings/dinners, which can cost up to $795 (Vintages' Christian Moueix dinner on November 1st).
Meanwhile the LCBO has changed the rules here in Ontario. Importing agents are no longer able to get their hands on wines freely donated by producers for such events. This makes it oppressively expensive for importers, who now have to pay the full retail price on free samples. Of course, if Vintages happens to organize an event, then the wines are free. Compare this with monopoly-free Alberta, where agents can readily access samples. Here importer-organized Vintages-styled events take place all the time at a lower, consumer-friendly cost.
Focusing on spirits, of today's special release of six finest, the
hand's down best buy is Highland
Park 30 Years Old Orkney Island Single Malt
(22202) at $369.95. The nose is complex and fairly spicy with faintly
cedary, ripe plum purée and some subtle hints of vanilla, chocolate and
lemon peel. Palate-wise, it is very bright and tangy with gently smoky,
lingering, slightly sweet caramel-plum flavours. Surprisingly smooth for
48.1% alcohol, only 120 bottles of this stunning elixir are available.
As wonderful as this Scotch is, there is nothing second rate about the delicious, honeyed, harmonious Highland Park 18 Years Old (500231) at only $117.95 also from the Orkney Islands, the world's most northerly whisky distillery. For bean counters, if the 30-year-old gets 100 points, then 18-year-old gets 95 points!
Meanwhile back in Vintages, one of the finest values to hit these lips
last year The
Macallan '1876 Replica' Highland Single Malt
(677633) at $249.95 is still available. This ultra-premium-quality Scotch
buy of 2005
comes in a deluxe gift box complete with a 20-page illustrated booklet on
1876 Etiquette. A corkscrew is required to open the bottle. Its sweetish,
honeyed, floral, heathery nose and rounded, gently spicy, honeyed, ripe
plum, elegant caramel flavours go on and on.
Moving on to
Gran
Patron Platinum Tequila at $469.95. It is
excellent with very refined, bright, ripe pear-tinged eau-de-vie flavours.
Is it worth the money? Not for this palate; I find all Gran Patron
tequilas tend to overpriced. Indeed, of 16 tequilas released in Vintages
since December 2000, the finest value was and still is Cesar
Monterrey Tequila Blanco Reserva (622449).
Released on June 25, 2005, the good news it that it is still available at
only $45.00, down from the previous price of $54.95.
Clear colour, it has that pungent, faintly peppery, classic, greenish, agave nose. Flavourful and slightly viscous, the very slightly sappy albeit refined, agave flavours show excellent length. This 100%, hand-selected, blue agave Tequila is distilled and filtered twice according to a century old recipe. Don't miss buying a couple of bottles of this amazing best buy.
Of the three finest Cognacs being featured today, as well as the five
released in Vintages earlier this month, not one was presented for
evaluation. Happily, I recently had a chance to recently try Rémy Martin
"Extra" Fine Champagne Cognac (650051) at $239.95 per 375 ml,
out of a small 50 ml bottle. As tasty and smooth as it is, let me suggest
you consider the cheaper Remy Martin "XO Excellence" Fine Cognac
(583468) at $209.95 on the LCBO general list with its harmonious, very
slightly spicy, caramel tinged, ripe plum flavours.
Having tasted all additional eight Vintages items in today's release,
my recommendation is Nonino
'Quintessentia' Amaro (933796) at $39.95 for
700 ml. Dark brown colour, the nose exudes sweet, herbs, caramel and
candied grapefruit peel. It is sweet and delicious with very spicy, plummy,
vanilla stick and caramel flavours. This flavoured grape brandy contains
cereal alcohol, grape acqua vitae, demineralized water, caramelized sugar
and flavour essence - a barrel aged infusion of grappa aged for more than
five years with various roots and herbs.
None of the eight new Fall Classics spirits have been tasted, nor today's five new ISDs (in store discoveries). Thanks to Torion Trading, however, I managed to get a miniature of Sainte Anne Calvados Rouen 25-Year-Old (931923 ISD) at $174.95 for 700 ml. This double gold medal winner has a light gold colour and a very seductive, sweet baked apple puree-caramel nose. It is dry, well balanced and lively on the palate with a lingering, smooth, warm apple compote finish.
To see the summary of all of today's149 Vintages release items click here.
Pick of the Week
As next Monday's, Vintages-organized,
Miguel Torres tasting/dinner at
the Granite Club is sold out, you will have to taste this week's best buy
on your own. Torres 2005 Gran Vina Sol Chardonnay (64774) at $15.45 is a
partial barrel fermented blend, which includes 15% the local Parellada
grape. Originating in the rolling Penedes hills overlooking the popular
Mediterranean resort of Sitges, it has slightly toasty, ready-to-drink,
ripe Anjou pear flavours. A perfect poultry partner.
Vaughan's Vintages
Release Recommendations
(Vintages November 25th release)
Best Buy Luxury Red Bordeaux
(Vintages November 25th release)
CHÂTEAU
TROPLONG MONDOT 2003
AC St-Émilion Grand Cru
CSPC 590836 • $99.95 • 70 Cases • Lcb Dir
Rich and Accessible ***+
(out of three stars)
Very deep intense purple colour. Intense, complex, very spicy,
surprisingly juicy, cedary, cassis-plum, black cherry nose. Intense,
complex, medium-full bodied, slightly spicy, gently cedary, robust, ripe,
plummy, dried black cherry flavours with great length.
Drinkability: { N S SM M ml l }
CHÂTEAU
PONTET-CANET 2003
Alfred et Gérard Tesseron • AC Pauillac, 5th Cru
CSPC 587113 • $109.00 • 103 Cases • 13% • Lcb Dir
Big & Well Structured ***
(out of three stars)
Extremely deep intense purple colour. Gently cedary, fairly juicy, stewed
ripe plum and blueberry cassis nose. Dry, well structured, medium-full
bodied, quite extracty, fairly juicy, ripe plum and cedar tinged,
sandalwood flavours with a lingering, slightly earthy, finish. Could drink
it now but suggest you keep it for another 5-6 years.
Drinkability: { n s sm m ML L XL }
– Lot: L031
Best Buy Luxury Red Burgundy
(Vintages November 25th release)
POMMARD
'LES TAVANNES' 2004
Pillot • AC Pommard
CSPC 5553 • $46.95 • 100 Cases • Mih Sel
Elegant & Ripe **+/***
(out of three stars)
Fairly deep red colour. Lovely, gently spicy, ripe, plummy, cherry-
chestnut nose. Well balanced, medium bodied (perhaps a bit on the light
side), smooth, elegant, ripe plum-cherry flavours.
Drinkability: { N S SM m }
A Release Highlight
Best Buy Australia White
(Vintages November 25th release)
'ALMOND
GROVE' CHARDONNAY 2004
Richard Hamilton • McLaren Vale, S. Australia
CSPC 741009 • $16.95 • 400 Cases • 13.5% • Bra New
Toasty Lime Puree **/**+
(out of three stars)
Very bright light yellow colour. Intense, gently nutty, spicy, ripe lemon
nose with lots of toasty, lime purée notes. Dry, very bright, medium
bodied, well structured, slightly spicy, toasty, ripe lemon meringue
flavours with a lingering, buttery, lime custard finish. Screwcap closure.
Drinkability: { N S SM m }
Best Premium Red ~ Australia
(Vintages November 25th release)
'BIN
389' CABERNET/SHIRAZ 2003
Penfolds • South Australia
CSPC 309625 • $35.95 • 450 Cases • 14.5% • Fos Win
Honeyed, Intense & Flavourful **+/***
(out of three stars)
This blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon and 48% Shiraz has a very deep
intense purple colour. Concentrated, very juicy, sweet, almost bourbon
driven, vanilla stick nose with cassis and black cherry notes. Dry,
medium-full bodied, extracty, solid, spicy, intense, dried, slightly
smoky, cedary, crancherry flavours with a long finish.
Drinkability: { N S SM M ML l xl }
Best Buy Premium Champagne
(Vintages November 25th release)
GOLD
LABEL VINTAGE BRUT CHAMPAGNE 1997
Champagne Lanson
CSPC 722520 • $64.95 • 300 Cases • 12.5% • Mar Ant
Solid, Effervescent & Toasty **+/***
(out of three stars)
Medium straw colour. Honeyed, spicy, toasty ripe lemon nose with some
hazelnut notes. Dry, very effervescent and bright with fine gently toasty,
ripe lemon-lime flavours with a long finish.
Drinkability: { N S SM M m ml }
– Lot: L2037B73-2
2001-2002-2003-2004-2005-2006
Tasting Note Database
Our
tasting note database from December 31, 2000 to October 2006, covers every
Vintages release product for the past 69 months. There are more than 13,000 notes in the database data. Just enter the name of the product,
supplier name or CSPC number. Or you can search by type of wine, country
of origin, even wine agent! Nothing could be easier. Also you can get information on the agent by clicking on the
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Contact Michael Vaughan at
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