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Vinous Restaurateur Perfection
Half Bottles to the Rescue

© Michael Vaughan 2004
National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
Saturday, November 20, 2004

LIVE WINE LINK
www.winefind.ca
(CLICK ON THE NAME - All listings are automatically linked to the LCBO database)
If there is a product that interests you, just click on the name below and you will instantaneously connected with the LCBO database. The product will appear in blue and all you have to do is click on the name again and then the next screen will provide details along with the store search. Just click on store search. The number of bottles in each store is updated nightly. You should call the store first to see if stock still remains (each store phone number is listed).

There is no question that restaurateurs need food-friendly wines, which show versatility and good value. While it is flattering to hear that licensees often rush out to snap up my recommendations, such buyers are more than occasionally stymied by the Vintages’ ordering system that no longer allows for large inventory and/or rapid repeat orders.

Of course, some restaurants insist on private order items occasionally enabling them to pass on higher than normal mark-ups. When such selected wines are outstanding, I sincerely applaud their efforts. Unfortunately, in some instances, privately ordered wines can represent poor value. In addition, customer unfamiliarity with many of these labels creates anxiety, especially if one has had a previous disappointing experience. All too often, dissatisfied customers don’t complain, they just don’t come back.

Having said this, I am pleased that today’s Vintages release has a number of fine buys for both sommeliers and even those dining at home. Starting with the familiarity issue, a producer like Louis Jadot, for instance, is considered to release reliable, high quality Burgundies. A second consideration, especially for restaurants, is size. It is a bonus if a good wine comes in half bottles because it is the perfect fit for those who want to share more than a single wine when dining out – or, for that matter, even at home. Also, if one isn’t certain if they will like the wine in question, a half bottles reduces that risk.

To this end, it is going to be hard to beat Louis Jadot 2001 Bourgogne Chardonnay (598144 at $10.95 for 375 ml). The gently spicy nose is most appealing with ripe apple-pear purée fruit and hints of rhubarb and caramel. On the palate, it is dry, very crisp and tangy - again with those apple-pear flavours along with peppery hints of ripe lemon on the finish. Of course, the regular 750 ml bottle is readily available as a Vintages Essential (933077 - $19.95). If the half bottles run out, restaurants can serve it by the carafe half bottle equivalent. Keep in mind that wines in half bottles age more rapidly, which is great in the case of items that need age, but certainly not so good with wines that are already mature.

Of course the price spread between half and full bottles can be a disincentive. In most instances, small packages carry a premium - in this case above 10% - attributable to relatively higher production costs per unit. While it is hard for producers to not pass on some of these expenses, perhaps the LCBO might moderate half-bottle mark-ups in order to encourage responsible drinking. It is discouraging, for instance, to find a new November Spanish red inexplicably priced at $16.95 for a half bottle vs. $26.95 for a full bottle – a premium almost 26% more per ounce!

There is, however, the occasional exception. I had to pinch myself when I discovered that the half bottle of Rutherford Hill 2001 Napa Valley Merlot (948935) cost only $17.95 (equivalent to $35.90 per 750 ml), which works out to be five cents cheaper than the full bottle on the LCBO shelf (959338). Appearing in toady’s Vintages release, it has a very deep, intense purple colour and complex, cedary, stewed plum and ripe cherry fruit nose. On the palate, it is well structured and yet harmonious with spicy, vanilla-tinged, ripe plum and cherry flavours. Excellent for those not wishing to invest in a whole bottle.

For starters, Vintages best bet is a half bottle of one of my favourite bubblies: the gently toasty Lanson Champagne Brut Black Label (974980) at $21.95. A whack of it still remains on LCBO shelves. Look for richness on the palate with lots of forward, ripe lemon, dried apricot flavours, very good mousse and excellent length.

For closers, you will not find a better buy than a half bottle of Sandeman 2000 ‘Vau’ Vintage Port (599845) at $27.95. This very deep intense purple coloured elixir has a complex, vanilla-caramel-tinged, sweet ripe plum purée nose. On the palate it is quite wonderful, elegant and yet medium-full bodied at the same time with sweet, ripe, plummy, cassis flavours and an excellent lifted finish.

Coming up, starting Thursday night, November 25-28, the Gourmet Food & Wine Expo takes place at the Metro Toronto Convention Centre, South Building. This year’s theme is California Wine Country and a wide array of California wines will be available to sample, including the brand new general list