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Release National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist Saturday, November 15, 2003 www.winefind.ca I
have to confess that I haven’t been the world biggest fan of Irish
whiskey. While some may have a sweet tooth, it seems that I have a
developed a “peat tooth” meaning that I like the smoky notes lurking
in certain Scotch whiskeys. At least that was until today’s Vintages
release, where I discovered Connemara
Pure Pot Still Peated Single Malt Irish Whiskey (475921)
at $66.95. Well hold the calls
because here’s an elixir that’s certain to bring a smile to the eyes
of every whiskey aficionado. Light gold colour, the nose is very peaty
with smoky, honeyed, plum notes. On the palate, it is surprisingly well
balanced and rounded with rather viscous, rich, smoky, peaty-plum flavours.
It has lovely balance and a great lingering finish - without question a
release highlight and perfect Christmas gift. To get the scoop, I
called the Ontario agent George Stephen Associates who specializes in
importing fine whiskey under the Angel’s Share Whiskey Company umbrella.
“It all goes back to 1993 when I launched the Signatory Vintages Scotch
whiskey,” states Stephen, “it’s
been a terrific success.” Indeed, there have been 16 Signatory
releases in Vintages in less than three years! “Irish whiskeys are traditionally made without using a smoking peat
fire to dry the germinated malted barley,” explains Stephen. “
The new owners at Cooley have invested in this new award-winning brand and
it’s the only peated single malt Irish whiskey in the world.” As
only 50 cases of six were imported by Vintages, you will have to move
quickly to get this one. Another stellar
spirit in today’s release is a French eau-de-vie that is a must for
anyone passionate about pear. This clear half-bottle of ripe pear fruit
essence is simply sublime. Stick your nose into a small snifter of Manguin
Distillerie Eau de Vie des Poires Williams (909408)
at $38.50 and you will be amazed. The smell of sweet, ripe, essence of
pear may make you want to get up and dance. Meanwhile on the palate, you
will find that the elegant, harmonious, very dry, bright, ripe pear purée
flavours doesn’t get much better than this. Again only 50 cases of 6
bottles are available. Hurry! The
all know that the 2000 vintage was a stunner in the Douro. Today’s
release of Manoel
D. Poças Junior 2000 ‘Porto Poças’ Vintage Port
(909150) at $48.95 represents terrific value. Extremely deep intense
purple colour, the nose is very youthful with sweet, stewed plums,
chocolate and vanilla sticks. It is extremely well structured on the
palate with intense, plummy, chocolaty, cassis-dried black cherry tinged
flavours that go on and on. Showing excellent length and promise, it could
age gracefully for another decade. For
dessert Carlo
Pellegrino Passito di Pantelleria
(969956) at only $24.95 represents pretty good value. This dessert wine is
made from the ancient Muscat of Alexandria grape, which is also known as
Zibibbo (see Nicolas Belfrage’s excellent recent softcover book entitled
Brunello to Zibibbo The Wines of Tuscany,
Central and Southern Italy from Mitchell Beazley). Made on the
island of Pantelleria, the grapes are dried thereby concentrating the
sugar. Fermented to 15% alcohol, there is still 13.5% residual sugar
meaning that it should be served well chilled to tame its natural
sweetness. Medium gold colour, the perfumed nose is quite seductive
with lovely, honeyed raisins, tangerine and ripe apricot jam. It is very
sweet and viscous on the palate and yet still reasonably elegant with ripe
apricot purée flavours and candied tangerine peel notes on the lingering
finish. An excellent match for gelato, cake and biscotti. It is ironic to discover that in the mid-1990’s “an
unholy rumpus broke out” regarding the use of artificial wind
machines (essicatori) to make
passito in plastic tunnels without the natural sun drying appassimento
stage. It has a familiar ring to it - like local questions relating to
Ontario icewines made in the freezer as opposed to the vineyard. As a
result, the buyer has to beware that a wide range of passitos are produced
- some excellent and others disappointing. Another
sweetie, this time from Germany is Dr.
H. Thanisch 2001 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Spätlese
(907741) at $28.95. With only 8.5% alcohol, look for a harmonious, sweet
but balanced, clover honey and ripe lemon-lime purée flavours with a
lingering finish. This wine exudes elegance and is perfect to sip by
itself. Finally,
November 20th marks the third Thursday in November and the annual release
of Nouveau wines. Unfortunately, the selection offered by the LCBO is
becoming ever slimmer Also the LCBO’s Young
Winemakers Tasting on November 19th (click
here
for information) seems to have put the boots to the French Chamber of
Commerce’s annual
Nouveau celebrations (now scheduled for November 27th - click
here).
Vintages has also shed the Italian Novello, leaving Duboeuf 2003 Beaujolais-Village Nouveau
at $15.95 (up a dollar from last year) as the sole entry. The General List
has dwindled to five selections. Fortunately, I have just had a chance to
assess the 2003 best buy, Duboeuf
2003 Gamay Nouveau
(891846)
at $8.95. This Vin de Pays de L’Ardèche is deep purple in colour with
bright, fairly rich, ripe, plummy flavours that will satisfy the most
ardent Beaujolais fan. Other reviews and related events will be posted
next Wednesday.
Check
out our winefind.ca tasting notes database Our tasting note database goes back to January 1, 2001 and covers every Vintages release product for the past 31 months. There are approximately 5,000 notes in the database data. Just enter the name of the product, supplier name or CSPC number. Or you can search by type of wine, country of origin, even wine agent! Nothing could be easier. When you get your search results (starting with the most recent release), click on the item name and you will instantaneously connected to the FBTI Vintage Assessments database. You will see our tasting note along with the name of the agent. You can get information on the agent by clicking on the agent’s name. Also, you can check LCBO store inventory by clicking on Check LCBO Availability. It will automatically take you to the item you want to search. To use our winefind.ca Tasting Notes Database: click here Subscribe to Vintage Assessments Today • Click Here
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2004 |