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Spirits to Lift the Spirits
From Irish Whiskey to 2003 Nouveau

© Michael Vaughan 2003
National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
 Saturday, November 15, 2003

www.winefind.ca
(All wines/spirits listed below are automatically linked to the lcbo database) 

If there is a product that interests you, just click on the name below and you will instantaneously connected with the LCBO database. The product will appear in blue and all you have to do is click on the name again and then the next screen will provide details along with the store search. Just click on store search. The number of bottles in each store is updated nightly. You should call the store first to see if stock still remains (each store phone number is listed).

I have to confess that I haven’t been the world biggest fan of Irish whiskey. While some may have a sweet tooth, it seems that I have a developed a “peat tooth” meaning that I like the smoky notes lurking in certain Scotch whiskeys. At least that was until today’s Vintages release, where I discovered Connemara Pure Pot Still Peated Single Malt Irish Whiskey (475921) at $66.95.

Well hold the calls because here’s an elixir that’s certain to bring a smile to the eyes of every whiskey aficionado. Light gold colour, the nose is very peaty with smoky, honeyed, plum notes. On the palate, it is surprisingly well balanced and rounded with rather viscous, rich, smoky, peaty-plum flavours. It has lovely balance and a great lingering finish - without question a release highlight and perfect Christmas gift.

To get the scoop, I called the Ontario agent George Stephen Associates who specializes in importing fine whiskey under the Angel’s Share Whiskey Company umbrella. “It all goes back to 1993 when I launched the Signatory Vintages Scotch whiskey,” states Stephen, “it’s been a terrific success.” Indeed, there have been 16 Signatory releases in Vintages in less than three years!

“Irish whiskeys are traditionally made without using a smoking peat fire to dry the germinated malted barley,” explains Stephen. “ The new owners at Cooley have invested in this new award-winning brand and it’s the only peated single malt Irish whiskey in the world.” As only 50 cases of six were imported by Vintages, you will have to move quickly to get this one. 

Another stellar spirit in today’s release is a French eau-de-vie that is a must for anyone passionate about pear. This clear half-bottle of ripe pear fruit essence is simply sublime. Stick your nose into a small snifter of Manguin Distillerie Eau de Vie des Poires Williams (909408) at $38.50 and you will be amazed. The smell of sweet, ripe, essence of pear may make you want to get up and dance. Meanwhile on the palate, you will find that the elegant, harmonious, very dry, bright, ripe pear purée flavours doesn’t get much better than this. Again only 50 cases of 6 bottles are available. Hurry!

The all know that the 2000 vintage was a stunner in the Douro. Today’s release of Manoel D. Poças Junior 2000 ‘Porto Poças’ Vintage Port (909150) at $48.95 represents terrific value. Extremely deep intense purple colour, the nose is very youthful with sweet, stewed plums, chocolate and vanilla sticks. It is extremely well structured on the palate with intense, plummy, chocolaty, cassis-dried black cherry tinged flavours that go on and on. Showing excellent length and promise, it could age gracefully for another decade.

For dessert Carlo Pellegrino Passito di Pantelleria (969956) at only $24.95 represents pretty good value. This dessert wine is made from the ancient Muscat of Alexandria grape, which is also known as Zibibbo (see Nicolas Belfrage’s excellent recent softcover book entitled Brunello to Zibibbo The Wines of Tuscany, Central and Southern Italy from Mitchell Beazley). Made on the island of Pantelleria, the grapes are dried thereby concentrating the sugar. Fermented to 15% alcohol, there is still 13.5% residual sugar meaning that it should be served well chilled to tame its natural sweetness.

Medium gold colour, the perfumed nose is quite seductive with lovely, honeyed raisins, tangerine and ripe apricot jam. It is very sweet and viscous on the palate and yet still reasonably elegant with ripe apricot purée flavours and candied tangerine peel notes on the lingering finish. An excellent match for gelato, cake and biscotti.

It is ironic to discover that in the mid-1990’s “an unholy rumpus broke out” regarding the use of artificial wind machines (essicatori) to make passito in plastic tunnels without the natural sun drying appassimento stage. It has a familiar ring to it - like local questions relating to Ontario icewines made in the freezer as opposed to the vineyard. As a result, the buyer has to beware that a wide range of passitos are produced - some excellent and others disappointing.

Another sweetie, this time from Germany is Dr. H. Thanisch 2001 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Spätlese (907741) at $28.95. With only 8.5% alcohol, look for a harmonious, sweet but balanced, clover honey and ripe lemon-lime purée flavours with a lingering finish. This wine exudes elegance and is perfect to sip by itself.

Finally, November 20th marks the third Thursday in November and the annual release of Nouveau wines. Unfortunately, the selection offered by the LCBO is becoming ever slimmer Also the LCBO’s Young Winemakers Tasting on November 19th (click here for information) seems to have put the boots to the French Chamber of Commerce’s annual Nouveau celebrations (now scheduled for November 27th - click here). Vintages has also shed the Italian Novello, leaving Duboeuf 2003 Beaujolais-Village Nouveau at $15.95 (up a dollar from last year) as the sole entry. The General List has dwindled to five selections. Fortunately, I have just had a chance to assess the 2003 best buy, Duboeuf 2003 Gamay Nouveau (891846) at $8.95. This Vin de Pays de L’Ardèche is deep purple in colour with bright, fairly rich, ripe, plummy flavours that will satisfy the most ardent Beaujolais fan. Other reviews and related events will be posted next Wednesday.

This year’s SAQ selection is seriously disappointing. Prices are up and the selection is down. The cheapest is an Italian white IGT Venezie – Sartoria 2003 Pinot Blanco at $9.95. The least expensive SAQ nouveau red is Jeanjean 2003 Primeur seriously overpriced at $10.95, especially considering the mediocre quality that surfaced last year.

 

Check out our winefind.ca tasting notes database

Our tasting note database goes back to January 1, 2001 and covers every Vintages release product for the past 31 months. There are approximately 5,000 notes in the database data. Just enter the name of the product, supplier name or CSPC number. Or you can search by type of wine, country of origin, even wine agent! Nothing could be easier. When you get your search results (starting with the most recent release), click on the item name and you will instantaneously connected to the FBTI Vintage Assessments database. You will see our tasting note along with the name of the agent. You can get information on the agent by clicking on the agent’s name. Also, you can check LCBO store inventory by clicking on Check LCBO Availability. It will automatically take you to the item you want to search.

To use our winefind.ca Tasting Notes Database: click here

   

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Vintages December 2003 Release
To see the complete list of upcoming products click here
(sorted by date of release). It includes the number of cases, which wines were presented by the LCBO, our agent ID for every product, as well as, special unannounced In Store Discoveries” for November.
You can also see it sorted by agent
click here  

Check out the
November 2003 InStore Discovery

Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2004
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
 (electronic or other wise) and or quotation.
Contact Michael Vaughan at
mbv@total.net