I am looking for something that’s cheap and cheerful. You know, the kind of stuff you can serve your friends at a cookout without feeling overly guilty about its taste. At one time if one wanted value, you would usually head straight for the New World wine section because good and inexpensive rarely went together when it came to European wines.

It is amazing how some things have changed. I was going through my 87 tasting notes for the under-$13 reds from the recent 2003 Canadian International Wine Challenge and then decided to sort them by price. And guess what? There is a little Italian effort at only $6.55 (almost half the price of the under $13 category winner), which got a pretty decent score.

The general list Spinelli 2001 Quartana Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (CSPC: 454629) isn’t going to turn a wine snob’s head. How, after all, could such a wine compete with Tuscany’s renowned Vino Nobile di Montepulciano? Nevertheless, here’s a red packed with pleasure, perfect for those who couldn’t give a hoot about prestige labels. It’s made from Italy’s ubiquitous Montepulciano grape and hails from the rather unfamiliar Abruzzi region just east of Rome on the Adriatic coast. You will be amazed to discover that the Abruzzi region actually produces more wine than all of Chile.

The key question, of course, is how does the $6.55 Quartana rate? The warm ripe plum nose is gently earthy with “Italian” written all over it. On the palate, it is medium-light bodied, harmonious and dry without being austere. The rounded plum flavours are balanced by a touch of acidity and sandalwood. The identity code for this shipment (L Q01M) appears on the back label

Easy to drink and versatile, it is best served very slightly chilled, just below room temperature - say at 18 C. It’s reminiscent of the best carafe wines I used to swill with abandon in Italy’s superior trattorias. To test the waters, I held a mini blind tasting with my homemade tomato-sauced veal meatballs, which relies on the terrific canned D.O.P. (standing for denominazioni di origine protette meaning that the name of the origin is protected) Strianese Tomatoes San Sarzano of Sarnese from Nocerino, Naples - available at the importer’s King Street East retail store Pasquale Brothers (416-364-7397). It was the perfect molto bene match.

Unlike many regional Abruzzi co-ops, Quaranta comes from a private family-run business, which has been growing grapes since 1955. In 2000, the company hired expert winemaker Riccardo Brighigna who transformed this red from duckling to swan. “At one time, this red was aged for a few months in large Slavonian oak or botti, but no longer,” explains owner Vincenzo Spinelli. “Today our focus is fresh fruit with skin maceration and fermentation all in stainless steel to keep the wine fresh.”

Getting a matching value white wasn’t quite as easy. Happily I discovered a newly-released general list white, which fits the bill, this time from Portugal. Make sure you don’t miss Alianca 2001 Terra Boa White (CSPC: 637041 - $6.75) a little gem from the 75-year old house of Caves Alianca, the people who bring you the ever-popular summer quaffers - Casal Mendes Rosé and Vinho Verde.

This white comes from the newly designated Beiras region and is a stainless steel blend of indigenous Malvasia Fina and Gouveio grapes. Three years ago Jancis Robinson claimed “white winemaking lags conspicuously behind the sophistication apparent in much red winemaking.”

Well Terra Boa is the kind of white to make a winewriter eat one’s words. Its very pleasant, gently honeyed, floral-citrus nose is followed up by dry, medium light bodied, melon-citrus, crisp red apple flavours - a recommended, wide-appeal, versatile style.

Put a French name on this wine and you’ll likely add $2+ per bottle to the selling price. In fact, Alianca has hired some of the world’s leading enologists, including Michel Roland, to transform their extensive portfolio. Stay tuned, as I will provide an update of some terrific Alianca high-profile wines in the near future.

Of course, there are many fine inexpensive wines out there, such as the Silver medal winning Greek white Kourtaki 2001 Vin de Crete at only $7.95 (the capsule code number is LA29105). To get the full Wine Challenge line-up of all 34 gold, 60 silver and 98 bronze winners Click Here.

Unfortunately, as far as Europe goes, my only lament is that when it comes to Pinot Noir, I have yet to taste anything that challenges the New World price/quality ratio. Two weeks ago, I recommended a well-priced Ontario effort from Inniskillin in the March Vintages release. Today, I have uncovered a terrific Aussi consignment wine.

It entails a shift from readily available to almost unobtainable. At a David Thompson Vintage Trade portfolio tasting last Tuesday, I came across a fruit-laden, Burgundian-styled classic - Picardy 2001 Pinot Noir at the modest licensee price of $28.95. Made by the Pannell family in Pemberton, Western Australia, I was knocked over by its elegant, enchanting, ripe black cherry flavours - one of the best value Austrian efforts I have come across. Only 16 cases will be arriving four weeks from now, so I suggest you call 1-866-390-8745 today to reserve. Click here to go to Picardy website

Coming up this week is the annual Santé Wine Festival with a host of events starting Tuesday, May 6^th. For full details Click Here.

Finally, those grappling with the upcoming May Vintages Releases, let me remind you that customers outside metropolitan Toronto/Ottawa can make requests contacting their local store until 11 am Tuesday, May 6^th. Note that orders must now be for both Saturday, May 10th (80 items) and May 24th (82 items) releases.

Of the 162 items, VINTAGE ASSESSMENTS presents the most comprehensive detailed tasting notes covering 151 (94%) items! You can get this today and ensure that you connect with the wines/spirits you want. According to Ontario’s leading professional wine buyers, Vintage Assessments is “the most widely-used, indispensable and reliable Canadian guide available.”

Vintage Assessments individually critiques more wines & spirits in each issue than what appears in entire issues of other Canadian wine publications. In addition, no other reviewer assesses two bottles of every Vintages wine! 

Subscribe to Vintage Assessments Today • Click Here

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May 2003 InStore Discovery

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Contact Michael Vaughan at
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