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Classics ~ Too Few & Far Between
Unearthing best buys from the upcoming Classics release
As well as the previous release!

A classic is defined as something that is generally considered to be of the highest quality and of enduring value. Vintages struts out their special wares three times a year and next week’s Spring/Summer 2004 catalogue features 287 “new” items (plus 41 “refeatured” products). Unfortunately, real  “classics” tend to be few and far between. Worse yet, when it comes to actually wanting to see what you are buying, they can’t be found.

You see, Vintages locks these “treasures” away in a warehouse far from the consumer’s eye. You have three windows to buy them. The first is at one of the Classics pretastings, where some 50 wines are poured. Two weeks ago, some lucky folks in London paid only $75 (vs. $95 in Toronto) for this privilege, which is a pretty good deal considering what was being poured.

Of course, many potential buyers, especially those who don’t happen to live in either of these locations, are unhappy that those attending are given preferred advance order buying options. This is especially true as complimentary LCBO invitations are extended to preferred trade buyers who miraculously get their orders filled. Non-attendees have to be satisfied with the second window, which meant mailing, e-mailing or faxing their orders by May 19^th. The third window coming up is telephone ordering, which starts next Wednesday, June 2^nd at 9 am.

Unfortunately, this laborious cost intensive way of merchandising the Classics doesn’t really work. Instead of hiding these products in a dark warehouse, why not get them out in front of the customers in a couple of key extended Vintages stores where they have a real chance of being sold? Given the LCBO’s see-and-sell obsession, I am surprised that Vintages number crunchers still haven’t seized this much more user friendly approach.

Hand’s on sales certainly works at Quebec’s SAQ Signature boutiques. As one wine fan says, “the Signature programme makes our Classics look terrible!” Signature features an exclusive assortment of champagnes from the best houses, crus in large formats, a multitude of genuine classics and fine liqueurs, in addition to numerous collectors’ items, gifts and prestigious accessories. Montreal’s Complexe Les Ailes store, for instance, offers 350 of the finest spirits vs. a paltry 10 in the Classics. In addition, there are 950 rare and prestigious wines, which will be shipped free of charge to anywhere in the province. Now that’s service.

It seems that dwindling excitement over the Classics has a lot to do with the reality that many of the wines are not true classics. Buyers get grumpy when the delivered goods don’t live up to the promotional billing in the Classics catalogue, especially at premium prices. Not everyone shares Parker’s enthusiasm for muscular, often inaccessible, high scoring wines. Finally, as many buyers have been unable to get what they want, they have given up trying.

At one time in the past I was able to taste and report on many more Classic wines. Unfortunately, I have now been limited to only 18 upcoming wines plus a few more made available by three pro-active agents. From this group, here are a few, tasty, well-priced recommendations. From Alsace, Schlumberger 1999 Riesling Saering Grand Cru (627950 – 50 cases) at $29.00 is a definite winner. It is medium yellow in colour and has an extremely fruity, spicy, honeyed, ripe lemon-melon nose with attractive schisty-mineral notes. This delicious pick-me-up is dry, crisp and yet mouthfilling with ripe melon-lemon flavours that show excellent texture and length.

From the hills of Tuscany come the sublime Capezzana 1998 Carmignano Trefiano (945774 – 50 cases) at $39.00 with its complex, slightly spicy, maturing, ripe plum, leather and anise nose. It is well structured and dry but still harmonious with ripe plum, sandalwood and red licorice flavours that show wonderful length.

Finally, from Spain’s Ribera del Duero is the deep purple red coloured San Pablo  1999 Crianza Cantaburros (924126 – 100 cases) for only $29.00. The nose is inviting with spicy, slightly sweetish, cedary, ripe plum and red pepper purée notes. It is medium bodied and dry but not austere with accessible, very tasty, gently juicy, lingering, ripe plum flavours. A ready to drink crowd pleaser.

The sudden surge of all Classics appearing at one moment, combined with the absence of any comprehensive reviews, results in suppressed sales. There are, for instance, lots of great “leftovers” from the 2004 Winter Classics, which are now in selected Vintages stores. A case in point: the up-until-now unreviewed Matanzas Creek 2001 Chardonnay (932707 - $44.00) is an outstanding 100% French barrel aged Sonoma Chard (14.5% alcohol) and rates *** (or 92 points). It has rich buttered toast flavours balanced by great ripe Anjou pear flavours and perfect acidity. The rather wimpy 88-90 rating quoted in the catalogue obviously scared off prospective buyers meaning that 11 cases still languish in Vintages stores waiting to be sold (see www.winefind.ca).

2001-2002-2003-2004 Tasting Note Database

Our tasting note database from December 31, 2000 to April 2004, covers every Vintages release product for the past 40 months. There are more than 6,000 notes in the database data. Just enter the name of the product, supplier name or CSPC number. Or you can search by type of wine, country of origin, even wine agent! Nothing could be easier. Also you can get information on the agent by clicking on the agent’s name, as well as current LCBO store inventory by clicking on "Check LCBO Availability", which will automatically tell you the number of bottles at LCBO as of last night.

To use our winefind.ca Tasting Notes Database: click here

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